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Dan Mazur Ama Dablam Expedition: Dispatch 11


Dispatch 11: 1. The following members remained in basecamp: Tony Kinny, Chris Kinny, and Camille Kinny.

2. The following members returned to basecamp: Larry Rigsby, Ali Naderi, Fred Strehlow, Bryan Bonser, Ryan Singleton, Dan Mazur, and Tracey Purchase.

3. The following members went down to Pangboche to fetch 1200 metres more nylon kernmantle 8 and 9 millimetre climbing ropes: Fred Strehlow, Ali Naderi, and Dan Mazur.

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4. Jocelyn DuFour slept in camp 1. De retour au camp de base, tout va bien.

5. The following members walked to camp 1 and returned to ABC: Jay Reilly, Kirsti Samson, Brian Rolfson, John Fawcett, Ken Tranter.

6. Sandy Garrington rested in ABC.

7. The staff were in the following locations:

A. Lakpa Sherpa, Pasang Lama, Galu Sherpa and Shera Sherpa were working above camp 2, fixing rope.

B. Phurba Tamang and Tenzing Sherpa (Patale) were assisting the group in camps abc and one.

C. Maya Sherpa and Tenzing Sherpa (Makalu) were in basecamp.

D. Kaji Tamang, Kipa Sherpa, Dendi Sherpa, Temba Sherpa, and Jai Bahadur were cooking sumptuous meals and manning their basecamp posts.

E. Pemba Sherpa and Mingma Sherpa were cooking in abc.

A note from Jay: Hi Everyone, Before Robert's tragic fall, most of the other teams on the mountain were relying on the close working relationship between us and the German Amical team to fix the route. After Robert's shocking death, basecamp has been thrown into a turmoil, with many teams on tight schedules looking directly toward us to continue fixing. Our Sherpas are each day working carefully above camp 2, placing new nylon kernmantle 8 and 9 millimetre ropes. We have made a decision not to use any polypropelene rope below camp 3, hence Dan, Ali, and Fred's trip to Pangboche to pick up 1200 more metres of nylon kernmantle 8 and 9 millimetre rope from our storeroom at Nima Lamu and Pasang Chirri's Paradise Inn. In the coming days, Dan and Jay and the entire team are going to be working cautiously and meticulously between camps 1 and 2, cutting away old ropes and replacing and repairing damaged sections with new nylon rope. This is the rock climbing section of the climb, and has been an area of concern that we shall thoroughly address.

We'll send more news in a few days. Thank you for following our expedition. From all of us on Ama Dablam and Summitclimb.com.

ps. we saw some friends today: Tim Mosedale from the Keswick Mountain Club, doing a recce of Ama Dablam, also Dave Wallis and Michael Bajada from Melbourne, climbing 6340 metre Ombigaichen. We wish them all the best of luck!

 





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