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Dan Mazur Ama Dablam Expedition: Dispatch 8


 

Dispatch Eight: Dear EverestNews.com,

We arrived at Ama Dablam Basecamp at 4600m 2 days ago. On the way we picked up a companion in the form of a large, handsome, black dog, who we've called "Sludge". He's still here in Basecamp, and visits us at least once a day. There are currently 5 teams here with us. Jay and Dan have met with most of them, a group from Amical, another from DAV, a Mexican Team, a Basque group, a New Hampshire group, and others, all of whom are very nice.

Ama Dablam 2003 Home
Ama Dablam Dispatches
Ama Dablam Gallery
Ama Dablam Route
Ama Dablam Team
Dan Mazur

Source: Dan Mazur Photo by Rudy Zuber

Training members on fixed line climbing technique took up most of yesterday. Galu Sherpa, Shera Sherpa and Jay set up a 100m section of fixed line on some steep slopes and cliffs high above basecamp. Under Jay and Dan's expert instruction, each member was required to climb the lines, and abseiled/repelled down again using figure 8 devices. This is a very important exercise, as many people have never climbed on fixed lines, or used a figure 8 and we need to ensure everybody is competent before climbing on the mountain.

The remainder of the afternoon was spent in the mess tent discussing our radios and high altitude medical equipment. We make twice daily radio calls to Basecamp whilst on the mountain, and we make sure to take necessary medications to each camp.

Yesterday was very beautiful, but today, it seems the monsoon season hasn't ended with today's weather: rain and snow. Some members however braved the bad conditions today to walk to Advanced Basecamp. Anupama, Fred, Bryan B, Larry, Ali, Ryan, John, Tony, Chris, Camille and Jocelyn all made the trip to ABC today under the Leadership of Dan. Conditions were quite horrendous with wind driven snow and very low visibility. Pasang Lama, Galu Shera, Shera Sherpa and Tenzing Sherpa did a fantastic job of putting up tents.

Meanwhile, Kirsti, Brian R, Tracey, Ken, Sandy and Jay remained in Basecamp for a day of rest - and to stay out of the weather! As I write this, the rain has eased and the barometer is holding steady at 581hpa.

Our trekking members, Anupama Keshavan, and Clay Chappell are doing fine with Anupama walking to ABC with Maya Sherpa, and Lakpa Sherpa today. Clay is resting in Basecamp today after helping with our rope training and making some constructive suggestions yesterday.

We'll send more news in a few days. Thanks for following our expedition, from Jay Reilly and all of us here at SummitClimb.com

P.S.: A special message from Ali and Kirsti: Moe and Patrick and Roland! Mates from glacier school, you are still on our minds.

 





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