Update 10/22/2003: Time to go home ! The
mountain will still be there next year ! Abele Blanc, who has summited 13 of
14 8000 meter peaks and has only Annapurna finish the 14, is going home.
Abele, clearly one of the best and smartest climbers in the world, he has made
a good decision. He reports on his web site
"Hello friends, Annapurna finished, nothing to do, cause of
the cold high wind..." The Sherpas agree, "very, very strong wind, Sir,
impossible to go up more, sorry Sir." They have abandoned the rope cargo and
after they have fought several hours in search of a shelter.
Abele feared the icy and very strong wind from North-West.
It is half a victory for the expedition after winning the technical
difficulties of the wall, has been denied the top, but patience to the smart ,
the mountain will still be there...
||Abele Blanc, who has
summited 13 of 14 8000 meter peaks is attempting to finish the 14 this
Autumn. He is on Annapurna with his friend Christian Kuntner and other 5
mountain guides from Aosta Valley (Italy).
Morshiadi ( 8091 meters high; 26545 feet) is located on the Annapurna massif
in North-central Nepal. Annapurna, the tenth highest mountain in the world,
was first climbed in 1950 by the French expedition Maurice Herzog and Louis
Lachenal on June 3rd, 1950. The first 8000 meter peak climbed, today it is
arguably the most feared. Annapurna is translated " Goddess of the Harvests"
or "the Provider".
The major peaks
on the Annapurna range is Annapurna I (8091 meters high), Annapurna II (7937
meters), Annapurna III (7555 meters), Annapurna IV (7525 meters), Gangapurna
(7455 meters) and Annapurna South (7219 meters).
Annapurna was the first
8000-meter peak ever climbed. The 1950 first ascent via the North Face was
immortalized in the great Maurice Herzog's book "Annapurna". 20 years more it
took for another team to succeed on the mountain. Chris Bonington's team 1970
ascent of the South Face of Annapurna was a landmark in the history of
mountaineering. Two American women, Irene Miller and Vira Komarkova, have
reached the summit via the North Face in October of 1978, making the first
ascent by Americans! In May of 1988, American Steve Boyer, working with a
large French expedition, reached the summit, repeating the Bonington
route on the South Face with a large French expedition.
After the first attempt that stopped at 7600 mt. on the 16th, tomorrow in the
morning will start the second and, we hope, good one; six of the seven members
of the italian expedition (Abele Blanc, Christian Kuntner, Marco Camandona,
Massimo Farina, Alex Busca and Corrado Gontier) will leave for the camp 2; the
following day they will move to camp 3 and finally on Thursday they will try
the top! Much more news and beautiful photos here:
Unfortunately the first attempt to catch up the summit through
the wall south of Annapurna has not gone to good aim, the boys have had some
difficulties to quota 7500 meters approximately. The wall was a lot exposed
and unfortunately being remained without ropes they have not been able to
continue to equip the way. They are all good, during the connection radio they
have communicated that some come down to the base camp and others spend the
night to camp two.
Abele Blanc going for
number 14 is in the second wave...
After installing the 3 camps on the Bonington route in the first days of
October, yesterday has started the final attack; there are good
There are two groups: the first one, with 4 guides (Marco
Camandona, Alex Busca, Corrado Gontier e Massimo Farina) has left the base
camp yesterday morning and has reached the camp 2 (6100 m); today they are
going to the camp 3 (6900m) and sleep there for the nignt; tomorrow they will
try to reach Annapurna's summit.
The second group with the other 3 members of the expedition
(Abele Blanc, who had some health problems during last days, Christian Kuntner
and Adriano Favre) will leave the base camp tomorrow for their attempt to the
summit. Good luck to everyone!
Update 10/8/2003: To
the staff of everestnews.com,
Some more news about the Abele Blanc's
expedition to the Annapurna. The 7 members of the
expedition are following the Bonington's way on the
south face of Annapurna. They have left Italy at the
beginning of September and then they have reached the
base camp (4300 meters) on the 12th; in the first days
they have installed the camp 1 at 5000 meters, then they
had bad weather conditions until the end of the month.
Now in these first days of October they have installed
the camp 2 at 6100 meters and today they are installing
the camp 3 at 6900 meters just before the rock part of
the climbing (the most difficult).