Ray Yeritsian: West Rib Denali Summit 2003

..After resting at ABC (Basin camp 14,200 ft/4,300 m) for a day... solo ascent via West Rib Variation......descended the "normal" route (West Buttress)....it all started as an afternoon acclimatization climb to the West Rib... the weather was pleasant... I had a good feeling about the climb... so

After reaching the West Rib the decision to continue towards the summit came naturally, despite the late start......hours later, I stopped for a break near the end of the ridge, to recoup and also wait for the winds higher up to calm down... despite the cold temperatures (it was late night already) it wasn't too uncomfortable and I managed to get some rest before the final push towards the summit... Summited in the morning... all alone... the sun was up...no winds... so I took my time to enjoy the sun and the magnificent views from the summit... on the way down right below the summit, ascending Slovenian Trio generously offered me a cup of hot tea which refreshed me totally (erasing the effects of the sleeplessness) ... next stop was at 17,200 ft camp... a few more cups of tea in a pleasant company of friends (an American-British Trio who just happened to make a carry to the 17,000 ft camp and were getting ready to return to ABC)... Pretty soon I was back at ABC (14,200 ft) in my tent talking to my family on a satellite phone... Next morning I woke up to the sound of a helicopter and witnessed the rescue of three severely frostbitten climbers from higher up on the mountain.

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Pictures copyright Ray Yeritsian

 

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