The South Face of Nuptse Autumn 2003 Update

Yury Koshelenko compares the impressions about the ascent on Nuptse East with us: (11.11.2003) As in Schwarz's fairy tale "The Ordinary miracle", "the king still had feelings thin and hardly definable". We have hung between dreams and a reality. The reality is needs of a body, but a consciousness is aside all the time. There was a certain division, and the result of it is two climbers dog-tired with foggy plans concerning the future, with a proof sensation of the fixed universe at the top. This top is as a sign, as a seal. And it came into our hearts and remained there as a lunar landscape with a full-scale view of Everest with a huge silvery flag and the Southern saddle, Western Face of Lhotse, with a smooth turn of her ridge and the top on which we hugged one another of the good achievement. Those embraces are a high level of our relations. We feel such emotions from that it has come off and these emotions are from our staying beyond the limit.

11.11.2003: Nuptse East: news and impressions from Yuri Koshelenko continued

The night ascent on the unknown summit close to 8000m is a high uncertainty, especially with the descent that follows. But we decided to do that, lost in high meditation when having dissolved with an exhalation you can to not return. It is not a simple achievement for us: it was checking of our opportunities, and first of all a conformity of internal instructions of your spirit and the reality of their embodiment in the real world. There is no also a speech about any victory. We have ascended the top, unclimbed before, by a mutual agreement and due to the renunciation we made at a spiritual level.

(9.11.2003): Yury Koshelenko reports from Namche Bazaar: "We are in Namche. The body is knitting gradually with the soul. We feel strange sense. As an idea - a comparison with a billiard sphere beaten out of the limits of a table comes. This is an interesting condition of consciousness, but it is difficult to use fruitfully because of difficulty of the control... It is badly controlled. The mountain has already crept away from us. It opened her embraces. The sensations from contact with her reality are already delayed and are less powerful, the reality is fixed in the past, but still yesterday we lived in it.

The southeast ridge is technically very complicated, interesting, magnificent with beauty of its line. It comes to an end at 6900 m with a wide crest. This crest rests against a pre-topmost snow-ice slope and a summit tower. For the ascending of the further part of the route we had to sacrifice something. The weight played the first role as a brake on our way to the top, and we left sleeping bags, spongy mat, products, and unnecessary personal things. We settled two cold camps: at 7200m and at 7450 m (the third one was settled on descending route). Then made the push to the top with the uncompromising decision to go up to the end, despite of a close night, a dense wind and a dense frost and also the obvious difficulty and uncertainty with the descent. Only this renunciation and the correct route we had chosen allowed us to summit the top for four pitches up to the maximum point. During that moment we controlled ourselves, and partly the situation. It cost to us of considerable efforts. I do not know at all, when we can restore them. But the mountain is ours, i.e. - Russian. As it heats our souls. And what about you?
Yury Koshelenko, the 9th of November 2003"

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