Koshelenko compares the impressions about the ascent on Nuptse East with
(11.11.2003) As in Schwarz's fairy tale
"The Ordinary miracle", "the king still had feelings thin and hardly
definable". We have hung between dreams and a reality. The reality is
needs of a body, but a consciousness is aside all the time. There was a
certain division, and the result of it is two climbers dog-tired with
foggy plans concerning the future, with a proof sensation of the fixed
universe at the top. This top is as a sign, as a seal. And it came into
our hearts and remained there as a lunar landscape with a full-scale view
of Everest with a huge silvery flag and the Southern saddle, Western Face
of Lhotse, with a smooth turn of her ridge and the top on which we hugged
one another of the good achievement. Those embraces are a high level of
our relations. We feel such emotions from that it has come off and these
emotions are from our staying beyond the limit.
The night ascent on the unknown summit close
to 8000m is a high uncertainty, especially with the descent that follows. But we decided to
do that, lost in high meditation when having dissolved with an exhalation you
can to not return.
It is not a simple achievement for us: it was checking of our opportunities,
and first of all a conformity of internal instructions of your spirit and the
reality of their embodiment in the real world. There is no also a speech about
any victory. We have ascended the top, unclimbed before, by a mutual agreement
and due to the renunciation we made at a spiritual level.
(9.11.2003): Yury Koshelenko reports from Namche Bazaar: "We are in Namche.
The body is knitting gradually with the soul. We feel strange sense. As an
idea - a comparison with a billiard sphere beaten out of the limits of a table
comes. This is an interesting condition of consciousness, but it is difficult
to use fruitfully because of difficulty of the control... It is badly
controlled. The mountain has already crept away from us. It opened her
embraces. The sensations from contact with her reality are already delayed and
are less powerful, the reality is fixed in the past, but still yesterday we
lived in it.
The southeast ridge is technically very complicated, interesting, magnificent
with beauty of its line. It comes to an end at 6900 m with a wide crest. This
crest rests against a pre-topmost snow-ice slope and a summit tower. For the
ascending of the further part of the route we had to sacrifice something. The
weight played the first role as a brake on our way to the top, and we left
sleeping bags, spongy mat, products, and unnecessary personal things. We
settled two cold camps: at 7200m and at 7450 m (the third one was settled on
descending route). Then made the push to the top with the uncompromising
decision to go up to the end, despite of a close night, a dense wind and a
dense frost and also the obvious difficulty and uncertainty with the descent.
Only this renunciation and the correct route we had chosen allowed us to
summit the top for four pitches up to the maximum point. During that moment we
controlled ourselves, and partly the situation. It cost to us of considerable
efforts. I do not know at all, when we can restore them. But the mountain is
ours, i.e. - Russian. As it heats our souls. And what about you?
Yury Koshelenko, the 9th of November 2003"
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