Without
our sponsors, you wouldn't see this site, please visit our
sponsors.
K2News.com part of EverestNews.com
K2
2000 Coverage with Waldemar Niclevicz
reporting for Project K2 and Gary
Pfisterer reporting with the American International
Expedition! Included is news on other climbers on the
mountain including Hans Kammerlander, Araceli
Segarra and
many others.
K2 1999: Waldemar
Niclevicz is the first Brazilian to climb Everest, Vinson (Antarctica's highest
mountain), Elbrus (Europe's highest mountain) and Carstensz. He is also the first
South-American to climb The Seven Summits.
Waldemar has confirmed his K2 expedition for 1999. Waldemar will now acclimatize in
Bolivia from May 11th to 20th, then he will head to Italy. On May 30th he will be leaving
for Islamabad to resolve the bureaucratic issues. Then he'll go to Skardu and plans to
start trekking on June 4th. He will be accompanied by climbers Abele Blanc (Italy)
and Pepe Garcez (Spain). They will try to climb Hidden Peak and Gasherbrum II
before K2. Their goal is to arrive at K2 base camp around 10th or 15th of July.
Their permission goes until August 31st.
Waldemar, along with his friend guta nascimento (who will be
at K2 base camp during part of the climb), will be sending EverestNews.com reports from K2 in
1999 !
Update 5/24/99:
Dear friends who follow
EverestNews.com,
Get ready! From Jun 1st on
EverestNews.com will transmit "K2
on-line", digital photos and information sent daily via satellite from Karakorum. You
will follow our expedition step by step, formed by the Italian Abele Blanc, the
Spaniard Pepe Garces and I, the Brazilian Waldemar Niclevicz. Firstly, we are going to
face Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak and then, K2. It won't be easy to climb those three
mountains, that's why I count on your cheering!
Before starting my trip, I spent three days in Bolivia. The
weather was terrific and I could climb three beautiful mountains: Tarija (5,060m),
Pequeno Alpamayo (5,370m) and Condoriri (5,648m). Those mountains are located near La Paz,
on the called Cordillera Real in Bolivian Andes. It was a pity I couldn't stay
longer, but I believe that those few days have been enough to alert my
organism that I'll reach higher altitudes.
And now, my friends, I've already got my suitcases ready ( I
mean, backpacks) to K2! I 'm starting my long trip on May 23rd, leaving Brazil to Italy
where I'll meet Abele Blanc. Together we're going to do the last
shopping and on May 30th we'll leave to Islamabad, the capital of Pakistan. We'll meet
Pepe Garces there.
Waldemar Niclevicz
Attention: From Jun 1st on "K2 on-line"
will start, with digital photos and daily information, sent via satellite directly from
Pakistan.
Project K2 is sponsored by O BOTICΑRIO, IRIDIUM AND MATTE
LEΓO.
From today (Jun 1st) on, the Brazilian alpinist Waldemar Niclevicz (33 years
old) starts sending all details of the expedition to K2, via satellite from Pakistan. -
The second highest mountain in the world and the most dangerous one. To follow the climb
you have just to open the alpinist's site at www.sagarmatha.com.br and
click the option K2 on line.
K2 on line shows each step of the expedition not only with
information but also with digital photos, sent via satellite, direct from Himalayans. Who
wants can contact the alpinist sending the e-mail to wniclevicz@sagarmatha.com.br
This is the second time that Niclevicz faces the death
mountain. In August 1998, 571 meters far from the summit, the expedition was over
due to bad weather. With 100 km/hour winds and snow up to the waist, Niclevicz decided to
end the climb "I tried 8 times to get the summit, going on would be imprudent, the
only wise decision in that moment was to come back home alive in order to be able to
accomplish a new attempt this year." says the alpinist.
During the expedition to K2 in 1998, Waldemar Niclevicz's
site received about 120 thousand accesses, the estimation for this year is up to 300
thousand. The site is shown in Portuguese and English, 75% are from Brazil and 25% abroad.
One of the reasons that the site is so visited is that EverestNews.com - the most
visited site about alpinism in the world - having 50 thousand accesses daily, also
divulges Waldemar Niclevicz's site.
The address www.sagarmatha.com.br, can also provide
hints about alpinism, details about the conquest of the seven summits of the world
accomplished by Niclevicz ( focusing to Everest - the highest mountain in the world) and
get information about the alpinist's videos and books.
Besides a notebook, shooting cameras and digital cameras,
Waldemar Niclevicz is taking the trip a telephone by satellite which becomes possible the
immediate report about any fact in the expedition.
STARTING TRAINING AND ACCLIMATIZATION IN PAKISTAN
Before facing K2, Niclevicz will climb other
mountains over 8000 meters as a training - Gasherbrum 8,035m and Hidden Peak 8,068
meters;
the 14th and 11th highest mountains in the world respectively, placed in Karakorum, the
same cordillera of K2
SCHEDULE
Today Jun 1st, Niclevicz will buy food in Islamabad, the
capital of Pakistan. In order to help the expedition, two cooks were hired. In Islamabad
(city placed in the North of Pakistan) 150 porters will be selected to take 10-ton
equipment and food to the camping. On Thursday, Jun 3rd, Waldemar Niclevicz and his
companions will start a 100-kilometre walk as far as Gasherbrum base.
Depending on the weather this walk can take them from 7 to 10 days.
The companies O BOTICΑRIO, NUTRIMENTAL, MATTE LEΓO AND
IRIDIUM sponsor and support Waldemar Niclevicz, in Project K2 sequence.
Update 6/1/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Islamabad - Jun 1st 1999 - 10th day of the
expedition
Dear friends,
Today starts K2 on line, with direct transmission, via
satellite, one of the biggest adventures on Earth: climbing the most difficult and
dangerous mountain in the world, K2 (8,611m). Our challenge will be greater because we
intend to climb two other mountains over 8 thousand meters of altitude before, Gasherbrum
(8,035 m) and Hidden peak (8,068 m).
You can follow each step of our expedition by updating, with
digital photos and information sent via satellite. Information about other expeditions
will also be available here, as well about the climb of other great mountains here in
Karakorum. This time will be very hectic in the North of Pakistan, there are about seven
expeditions which will face K2, 9 to Broad Peak (8,047 m), 9 to Gasherbrum, 4 to Hidden
Peak and 5 to Nanga Parbat (8,125 m).
Today is the tenth day traveling; after leaving Brazil I
have been in Italy buying some equipment. Fortunately we're already in Islamabad and I
admit I was a little afraid of not being able to enter Pakistan, due to the last conflicts
with India, on Kashmir territory. We hope these two countries can find a peaceful
solution, that all of them do their best to avoid a tragedy between Moslems and Hindus, as
it has been happening in Yugoslavia between Serbs and Kurds.
Abele Blanc and I left Aosta
(north of Italy) at 4 am, towards Milan Airport. After traveling all night long and
for almost two days, with long stops in Rome, Dubai and Lahore (the main cultural
city of Pakistan). We arrived very tired in Islamabad yesterday, where we got in touch
with our agent, Ashraf Aman, to start filling the diplomatic requirements. We went to
migration today in order to get a permission to travel in the North of Pakistan in the
next three months and also we were introduced to Captain Shoukat Naem Khan, our officer
who will follow our expedition, so that we must respect several requirements imposed by
the Government.
I'm very glad by our expedition. It has started and our team
is joined at last. We are a skilled and enthusiastic team. Abele
Blanc (Italian, with 7 of 8 thousand meters, including Everest), Pepe Garces (Spaniard,
with 3 of 8,000 meters, including Everest), Christian Kuntner (Italian, with 7 of 8,000 m,
including Everest and K2), Andrew Lock (Australian, with 4 of 8,000m including K2) and I,
Waldemar Niclevicz (Brazilian, with 3 of 8,000 m and the Seven Summits of the
World, including Everest). Christian and Andrew will go along just to Gasherbrum and
Hidden Peak.
You can recognize all our team on the photo today . On the
first row captain Khan, I and Abele. On the second row Pepe, Andrew and Christian. For
photos see below.
Update 6/3/99:
K2 ON-LINE WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan, Islamabad Jun 3rd 1999.
Fortunately everything has been solved in Islamabad and we
can leave towards Karakorum. We're going to do 700 km in two days from Skardu, the
last big city which will be found before starting our approximation walk, to
Gasherbrum base.
Today we're going to North of Pakistan by Karakorum highway,
where we're going to spend a night in Chilas. We're probably getting there very late, so
I'm taking this time to send this message in the morning, avoiding leaving K2 on line
without information. Unfortunately it was impossible to do this part of the trip by
plane, because some flights have been cancelled last days, and there are too
many passengers to Skardu. Traveling by plane avoids dangerous roads, that go along Ingo
River, one of the most important in Asia.
I promise a photo of our trip tomorrow, and I hope I can
send it from Skardu, "Insha Ala" as they say here , "God willing
everything succeeds"
Update 6/4/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Chilas/Skardu - Jun 4th 1999 - 13th day of the
expedition
The trip to here was terrific. More than 700 km by Karakorum
Highway, a pavement road, but full of holes, and no signaling at all. Besides, of
course, being hung on a canyon formed by Indo River. The danger was big by drivers
careless, who drove in high speed and overstepped in forbidden places. What called our
attention was the great quantity of soldiers that have being carried, probably to Kashmir
region, that's about 200 km from here. We've seen many buses full of soldiers.
Yesterday we spent the night in Chilas, where we arrived at
11:00 pm. It was funny: one hour before we were obliged to stop in a military barrier,
where there were a dozen cars. When we asked about what was going on we were warned by a
soldier that there could be some assaults by the road and if we went on, it would be our
problem. They told us that there have been assaults almost every nights (big stones
are thrown on the road and when the car stops it's assaulted). We accepted the challenge,
but we were very alert in order to avoid any surprise.
Today we left Chilas at 6:00 am, to get Skardu just after
midday. Our intention was to finish the preparation, mainly buy some fresh food
(potatoes, rice, fruit, vegetables, etc....) hire porters so that we
could go to Askole tomorrow. But, today is Friday and every Friday afternoon Moslems
don't work here in Pakistan. We need to wait here more one day, then we can
leave towards mountains definitively. I leave you a photo of Karakorum Highway, where
there are some typical multicolored trucks here in Pakistan. This region crosses the
Northeast region of Pakistan and Kashgar in China. In a total 1.200 km took 30 years to be
finished. At the back Nanga Parbat is outstanding, with 8,126 m of altitude.
Pakistan - Skardu 2,300 m Jun 5th 1999 - 14th
day of the expedition
I've tried and tried but it was impossible to leave Skardu.
Today nobody works here, it's a holiday. I've heard many ceremonies will happen on the
city streets. Then, we took advantage, having some difficulties due to the holiday, to
finish hiring our porters and buy the last food. Soon at night we want to leave our jeeps
carried with our luggage, ready to initiate our trip because we intend to go to Askole
tomorrow early morning.
Update 6/6/99:
Pakistan - Skardu/Askole 3,050 m/ Korophon 3,150 m -
Jun 6th 1999 - 15th day of the expedition
We decided to have a long day today, trying to recover the
day we lost in Skardu. So, I'm sending this message beforehand because I don't know if we
are really going to arrive to Korophon. We're going to leave at 6:00 am, along of 140 km
dangerous dirt road, which will take us to Askole, where our approximation walk to
Gasherbrum base-camp will start.
It was in that road that an accident happened with one of
our jeeps last year, when one of them went to the bottom of Braldu River and two porters
died.
Our intention is to begin the walk today and camp in
Korophon, where we should arrive late afternoon. I apologize to send this message
beforehand, but during the approximation walk I'll have some difficulty to update K2
on-line. We are setting camp every day, moving all day long and arriving in the camps
tired. We're going to take a time when we arrive at base-camp.
Update 6/7/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Korophon 3,150 m /Bardimal 3,250 m, Jun 7th 1999- 16th day of the expedition
Yesterday was very long, but worthwhile. We left Skardu at
5:00 am with 12 jeeps, and soon we enter Shigar River Valley. It took us 6 hours and half,
140 km, by a frightening road, mainly when we went along Braldu River, hung on a
abysm which was more than 50 m high. The landscape was getting wilder and more
beautiful. Then, we arrived in Askole, the last village in the region, having a little
more than a hundred dwellers, where the precarious road finished.
In Askole we have divided our 2,500 kg of equipment and food
among 105 porters, each one taking an average of 25 kg. 16 porters carry just flour ( so
that all porters can get its own bread - chapati - every day), others 16 take kerosene
(necessary for cooking), 2 porters just take sugar, 8 of them take vegetables, 2
just eggs, 1 carry the kitchen facilities, 24 take Brazilian and Italian food, 2 carry
tents, 2 take our liaison officer's equipment, 32 take alpinism equipment and our
clothes.
We wished to get Paiju today, but it was not possible,
because the rivers waters which we had to cross were very strong, so our walking got
3 hours longer . Then we just got Bardimal, at 3,250 m. It's unbelievable, but what most
disturb us was the warmth, worse, because we are in a very arid region, very hard to get
potable water.
In a total, we are going to walk 105 km from Askole (2,900m)
to Gasherbrum base camp( 5,200 m) in about 8 days.
I leave you a photo of Dumidormo River, where appear the
only 4 porters who had courage enough to face the strong stream. All of them were taken by
the water strength for more than 15 m, but they have arrived safe on the other
bank.
Pakistan - Bardimal 3,250 m / Paiju 3,370 m - Jun 8th 1999 - 17th day of the expedition
We arrived in one of the most important places of the
approximation walk today. We're in Paiju, 3,370 m with other three expeditions: a Chilean
one that goes to Broad Peak (8,047 m), and two Koreans (one goes to Gasherbrum and other
to Hidden Peak). Paiju is a true oasis in the middle of these arid mountains , a
wood with a crystalline water source ( till here everything seems perfect). There must be
about 600 people here; just the Koreans are 26 and 300 porters. The expeditions usually
stay here two nights, because they need one day for the porters to make bread (chapati)
Well, the trouble here is that there are too
many people in a very small place, there are feces everywhere, people speaking aloud all
the time, it's a complete mess.
Today we left Bardimal at 6:30 am, along of Biaho Kungma
River. The day was terrific, blue sky, no clouds at all and we could see K2 very far,
surpassing all other mountains, with a very impressive beauty. All
environment will become more magnificent from now on, we are going to pass through many
famous and beautiful mountains in the world.
Will you please excuse me for not answering the e-mails, but
I'll just recharge my notebook battery when I arrive at base camp. I leave
you a photo where there are two porters at the bank of Biaho Lungma River.
Pakistan, Paiju 3,370 m / Urdukas 4,010 m, Jun 9th
1999 - 18th day of the expedition
Unfortunately my notebook battery is over, so I can't send
neither messages or digital photos. I'm leaving little messages by Iridium phone and I
must arrive at base camp in three days. Then I'll be able to get my solar energy
equipment, have the batteries charging and update K2 online normally.
Will you excuse me, but it's not possible batteries charging
during the day, because we're walking all day long. The weather continues great and the
mountains marvelous.
Project K2 is sponsored by O BOTICΑRIO, IRIDIUM,
NUTRIMENTAL and MATTE LEΓO.
Update 6/10/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan, Urdukas 4010 m / Gore 4345 m Jun 10th 1999 - 19th day of the expedition
The weather has changed drastically. In the morning there
was a strong mist and it has snowed all day long. We arrived in Gore with no problems but
we have no idea how the way will be. The temperature was 30 degrees centigrade and
fell to 5 degrees centigrade. It happened because we are walking on Baltoro Glacier. I
keep leaving little messages by Iridium Phone and from two days on (when we are likely to
arrive at Gasherbrum base-camp) I'll set my solar energy equipment and charge my notebook
battery so I'll update K2 online as usual. I'll send news and photos from Gasherbrum
base-camp.
Update 6/11/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan, Gore 4345 m / Concσrdia 4720 m, 20th day of the
expedition
Last night there was a strong storm on our camp. It snowed
more than 20 cm. The wind stopped around 10:00 am and we decided to go back to our
walking. After midday the snowed kept falling uninterruptedly. We couldn't find
the steps on the path so we had to look for them sinking in the snow. We hope this
snow diminishes so that we can arrive at Gasherbrum base-camp tomorrow. I'm sending this
message by Iridium phone and I hope to be able to operate K2 online as usual tomorrow with
all the communication equipment charged, sending photos as well.
Update 6/12/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan, Concσrdia 4720 m/ Gasherbrum base-camp 5220m, Jun
12th 1999, 21st day of the expedition
It's a pleasure to inform you that today we arrived at
Gasherbrum base-camp. After 105-km walking we are at the base of the first two mountains
that we are going to face this year: Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak
There was a violent storm yesterday so it was hard to
open a path on a soft snow today from Concσrdia to here. As our expedition is the first
one this year, the path was completely hidden by snow. We decided to set our camp
100 higher than the usual place, trying to avoid other expedition's noises, that
must arrive in the next weeks.
I leave you a photo of our walking, where there are some
courageous balti porters facing the snow to arrive at base-camp. Note the photos should be
posted soon.)
Update 6/13/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Gasherbrum base-camp 5220 m, 22nd day of
the expedition
Today is a day off here, or better, day to set tents,
bathrooms, kitchen. We're likely to be here for two or three days ending our base-camp
before start climbing.
I must explain one thing: we are at "Gasherbrum"
base-camp. Gasherbrum is a massif with 5 imposing peaks, two of them higher than 8
thousand meters. The highest is Gasherbrum I, with 8,068m , also called Hidden Peak; the
second one is Gasherbrum II with 8,035 m. We are trying to climb both, but to avoid
misunderstanding I'll always call Gasherbrum I - Hidden Peak and Gasherbrum II -
Gasherbrum.
As there was technical problems in my communication
equipment I take advantage to send you photos of our approximation walk, so that everybody
can have an idea about the beauty around us. On the photo there are two balti
porters on Baltoro Glacial and at the back the famous Trango Towers.
Pakistan - Jun 14th Starting climbing up to
5,650 m and back to base-camp 23rd day of the expedition
Since the weather has been better, we started with immense
satisfaction to climb Gasherbrums. We went to 5,650 m, open a path on the South
Gasherbrum Glacier. It wasn't easy to get there, we suffered from warmth of the sun and
got very tired trying to find a safe path among blocks of ice and deep cracks, what we
call serac or ice fall. Abele, Pepe, Christian and I (Andrew stayed at base having some
rest) went joint by the rope all the time, what saved us of many falls in deep cracks. In
fact we faced true labyrinth, several times we were in a blind alley or in front of a
insurmountable crack (some of them 5m wide and 30m deep). We marked our path with
some red flags, what will help in our next lunge. It was very difficult because we were
the first ones to face the South Gasherbrum Glacial this year.
We went half way to camp 1. In this camp, that must be
placed at 6,100 m of altitude we'll do our attacks to both Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak.
We expect to end to climb these two mountains in 40 days, and then go on
to K2.
Falling in the cracks was practically unavoidable. The one
who was ahead suffered more, both by the effort to squash the soft snow and by the
frighten to see the legs loosen in an abysm very deep. (We sank in the crack up to
the waist, because we were always alert in order to stop the fellow's fall with the rope.
So, each 30 minutes one of us went to the point of the rope. My friend Abele Blanc was the
most enthusiastic by starting the climb, so I leave you a photo where he appears among the
ice blocks of the ice fall.
Pakistan Camp-base 5,220m, 24th day of the expedition
The weather has been wonderful, the sky was blue all day
long. It was a pity we weren't climbing, so we took advantage to have a rest, after our
lunge yesterday. We are preparing to climb again tomorrow morning, I hope the weather
keeps good.
We aren't the only expedition here. Today our base-camp was
visited by Oscar Cadiach (chief of a Spanish expedition) and San Bae (chief of
a Korean expedition). Two other Korean expeditions have arrived, one of them will face
Hidden Peak, the others will face Gasherbrum. There are other 6 expeditions that must
arrive in the next days.
There is also a Korean expedition trying to climb Gasherbrum
IV. At K2 there is already two expeditions at base-camp , one of them is Japanese
whose chief is Takuo Fujiwara and other Korean whose chief is Hyueng Chil Lim.
I leave you a photo of our base-camp , which is at
5,200m of altitude, at the joint of Gasherbrum South Glacier with Duca Degli
Abruzzi Glacier. The sharp mountain at the back is Hidden Peak
Pakistan - Base-camp 5,220 m / Camp 1 6,100 m, Jun
16th 25th day of the expedition
We woke up at 2:00 am today and at 3:00 we were facing
the delicate Gasherbrum Glacial for the second time. It was very cold, 11
degrees centigrade below zero what made us walk quickly and at 6:30 am we arrived at
the equipment warehouse that we had made before. We went on enthusiastic opening path in a
hard snow up to a big amphitheater which left us in front of Gasherbrum and Hidden
Peak. In that place we set our Camp 2 at 6,100 m of altitude. Camp 1 is an enormous
amphitheater.
I have been amazed by the beauty of Gasherbrum massif. There
are 7 summits in a remarkable beauty.
I'm seeing all of them now, thanks to the nice weather. There is no cloud in the sky,
which is completely blue. We are all very excited. Our main difficulty is to find a path
in the labyrinth through the cracks. We don't go far from the tents avoiding falling
in one of these cracks. Later we went out for recognizing a way to Gasherbrum - Camp 2. We
found soft snow where we sank up to the knees. We arrived around 6,400m of altitude, then
we returned to our base-camp for some sleep.
I'm with Iridium phone but not with the notebook, so I
leave a photo of our last attempt where Abele Blanc and Pepe Garces appear in the
beginning of the most complicate part, on the way to camp 1. The summit in the centre is
Gasherbrum.
Pakistan - Camp 1 5,950 m / base-camp 5,220m, 26th day
of the expedition
We went from camp 1 to base-camp. And we regretted for
not having started to descend before 6:00 am, because we arrived at 10:00, and it was very
hot. The snow has started melting and formed true rivers on the ice near
base-camp. We hope this nice weather goes on, because we had much snow in the beginning of
Gasherbrum, where we did a recognition yesterday. It's necessary to wait some days so that
the wind and sun take some snow away and the climb becomes safer and less
tiring.
For a while we are very satisfied, camp 1 is ready and in
the our next lunge we expect to set camp 2. The other expeditions that are here today
(Koreans and Spanish) started moving, but they have been very slow for a while
because they aren't acclimatized yet. We wished to set camp 2 at once, as the
weather has been nice, but it's necessary to respect our body and let it adapt step by
step to the rarefied air, which is our main aim in climbing Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak: We
want to get K2 very well acclimatized and with plenty of energy.
I leave you a photo of our camp 1, in the back appears the
magnificent Gasherbrum, over the left tent a crest takes to the
superior pyramid. Our climb route is by that crest, when we get the rock
pyramid we cross to the right through the rock base, so we follow by the right crest to
the summit . Insha Ala !
Pakistan - base-camp 5,220m, 27th day of the
expedition
It was a deserved day-off at base-camp today .We took
advantage to take shower, wash clothes and prepare the equipment for our next lunge.
Having a bath at 5,000 m of altitude isn't so strange since
you really want it. We have our own bathroom, a small tent were we improvised a
water-closet, in order to avoid spread feces all around. And we have other tent at the
same size, where we hang those camping showers, having some heated water, of course. It's
obvious that we need to wait for a hot day, avoiding the risk of getting a cold.
Our main problem today, was to prepare our lunge to
Gasherbrum, where we intend to set camp 2.We have separated ropes, tents, fuel (gas) and
food. We are worried about the weather, that is likely to change. The day finished
completely cloudy and the temperature increased (at night, which had been usually
-11 C and it was only -5)
I leave you a photo of our base-camp today morning,
when the weather was good. In the back Hidden Peak appears.
Pakistan - Base-camp 5,220 m / Camp 1 5,950 m, 28th day of
the expedition
We woke up at 2:00 am again. At 3:00 we were in the darkness
with our front torches (which go attached to the head). We didn't like the temperature,
around -5 degrees centigrade, it should be much colder (the increase in the temperature
means bad weather). But , we went on to camp 1, much quicker, because the path is well
marked by our steps on the snow, and the signaling flags that we left in our last
lunge. We arrived in our tents at 9:00 am.
We rested for a while and went to the beginning of our climb
route, where we left ropes, stakes and other equipment. Now we are going to rest,
because we intend to start the works to open a path up to 6,500 m of Gasherbrum very
early, where we intend to set camp 2. The weather keeps unstable, but it doesn't disturb
us.
I leave you a photo of our camp 1, where it's possible to
realize the difficulties through the cracks that exist in the Glacial.
Pakistan - Camp 1 5,950 m / Camp 2, 2,650 m, 29th day of the
expedition
We're going to work hard today, so I send this message
beforehand. We're going to wake up at 3:00 am to start our climb to Gasherbrum by
4:00 am , when the sun rises. The snow must be our great problem , maybe we sink up
to the waist. But, if everything succeeds, we expect to set camp 2 around 6,500 m
and spend the night in that altitude, improving our acclimatization.
Let's cheer everything succeeds, because to set camp 2 means
our big step towards the summit. We intend to set one more camp (number 3) and go to final
attack in the next lunge( it's usual to set a fourth camp). I leave you a photo of
Gasherbrum, seen from camp 1. We are going to follow the crest in the centre of the photo
that goes to the left side.
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM Pakistan-
Base-camp 5,220 m, 30th day of the expedition
Our approximation walk to base-camp started
wonderfully: We were full of hopes and the weather was great. Each day we were granted by
a beautiful sun amidst an endless blue sky. Suddenly, on the 4th
walk-day, some dark clouds appeared , the warmth was replaced by an icy cold and some
snowflakes started falling. "That's just to remind us that we are
in Himalayans" said my friend Abele.
When we arrived at base-camp, the weather got better. The
clouds disappeared completely and the ski was bluer and endless. We were
very hot on the glacial and we were glad in going ahead. We set camp 1 in the first 4 days
and we dreamed enthusiastically in setting camp 2, at 5,920 m. And the nature
reminded us once more that we were among the highest mountains in the world, the
Himalayans.
During the night the snow started. On Sunday morning
at 5:00 am, without any option, we left the tents in Camp 1 and started descending to
base-camp. The last days' footsteps had disappeared, the visibility was around
100 m. Having much difficulty, we looked for our path amidst the mist and the
snowstorm that didn't stop falling. We got base-camp at 9:00 am and during all day
long the snowflakes kept falling on the mountains, breaking out big avalanches. So,
today we rested waiting for nice weather, without forgetting we are in
Himalayans.
My friend Pepe Garces appears on the photo, during our
descending to base yesterday, looking for our path amidst the mist and snowstorm
among the ice blocks.
Pakistan - Base-camp 5,220 m, 31st day of
the expedition
Dear friends who follow K2 on-line:
I left my beloved country exactly a month ago,
trying to accomplish one of my greatest dreams, the climb of K2. I miss my family and
friends a lot, but fortunately, the wish to execute each one of my aims is greater. It is
not easy being among these great mountains so long, far from the tenderness and
comfort of whom we love so much. But maybe it is one of the best ways to valorize the life
and prove the human being's capacity to overcome his owns limits. Of course, my wish
to return home is enormous, and it makes me happy. However, these big
mountains also contribute for my happiness.
The snow has been falling here, without stopping, since
Sunday. It's strange, the day is hot and the snow barely accumulates because it
melts as soon as it falls. (Now, here in Pakistan at 3:31 pm - 8 hours later
than in Brazil - 4 hours later GMT - it is 14 degrees Celsius. At night the
temperature was 9 below zero). Besides, the clouds are low, sliding on the glaciers.
So, we have no choice, just wait for good weather.
There is already other expedition here at the base-camp. It is a
commercial expedition led by an English man called David Hamilton. Yesterday he organized
a big meeting with all leaders of the expeditions. In this moment, there are 6
expeditions here: 3 Koreans , 1 Spanish (commercial), 1 English (commercial) and our
International. There are still other expeditions that must arrive in the next weeks.
The objective of the meeting was to find a common strategy so that all expeditions can be
benefited.
It was clear that the Koreans and the commercial expeditions (with
clients who pay a lot and with many altitude porters) want to put more than two thousand
meters of ropes at Gasherbrum. We adopted a position that left everyone a little
disappointed. I can explain everything tomorrow.
I leave you a photo of our meeting, that happened at the
English expedition dining hall. I am on the left of the picture, and after
follows David Hamilton and the Spanish couple: Nanni and Oscar Cardiach. The Koreans were
sat in front of us.
Pakistan - base-camp 5,220 m, 32nd day of the
expedition
The weather keeps unstable. It snowed a lot last night.
Today the sunrise was wonderful, but it snowed again after 11:00 am. We have received the
forecast from Spain, asked by Barrabes, who we thank a lot. The weather keeps unstable
until Sunday the 27th and then the weather may improve, with the full moon on the 28th.
Let me explain an important change in
our strategy. Other expeditions started arriving at base-camp, aiming to climb just
Gasherbrum. All of them had a lot of expectations about our group, that was
the first one to arrive, has an outstanding technical level and much disposition to work.
So, we realized that, if we didn't hurry up someone hardly would do anything. Well,
all of you know that besides Gasherbrum, we want to climb Hidden Peak and K2. And since so
many people want to climb Gasherbrum, we have decided to climb
Hidden Peak first and let the other expeditions climb Gasherbrum and do their job
too. Climbing Gasherbrum is much easier than Hidden Peak (I remind you that camp 1
is the same for both mountains). Our decision has caused some displeasure in other
expeditions, that were waiting for us to open the path towards the summit.
The photo today couldn't be other except Hidden Peak, the
highest mountain of Gasherbrum massif, also known as Gasherbrum I, with 8,068 m of
altitude, the 11th highest mountain in the world. The photo shows our camp 1 too.
Hidden Peak Base 5,220m / camp 1 5,950m,
31st day of the expedition
Pepe and I were tired of being at base-camp so long then, we
are going up to camp 1, even the weather doesn't show signals to get better. Our
hope is that we can work at high altitudes.
It's funny that in these three days, no other expedition has
dared to go to camp 1, so we are going to find a path practically invisible on the
snow, that has been falling regularly in the last days.
Pepe and I expected to leave base at 3:00 am, we were awaken
till 4:30 am. As the snow continued falling and the visibility was shorter, we
returned to our sleeping bags. It's incredible that at 8:00 am the sky was blue and
the sun was shining. Even getting cloudy after lunch, we have
decided to leave towards camp 1 tonight. We want to depart at 8:00 pm, it's a
strange hour apparently, but we can't waste time. Then, Pepe and I go first. Abele,
Christian and Andrew must leave a little later, at midnight. Our plan is to join the two
groups at sunrise at camp 1, and leave towards Gasherbrum. There
we intend to set camp 2, at 6,500m. It won't be easy, there must be much snow on the way.
Don't miss the news tomorrow!!!
I leave you a photo taken a week ago, of our base-camp, so
that you can have an idea where the two mountains that we are going to face are located.
Gasherbrum appears sharp, on the left . Hidden Peak appears on the right
side of the photo.
Hidden Peak - camp 2, 6,500m / Base 5,220 m, 35th day of the
expedition
Our camp 2 is the beginning of "Japanese
Corridor", a cut in the magnificent Northwest wall of Hidden Peak. It's a cut
is this aisle, the technically the most difficult part of all climb, around 200
meters, very vertical. Unfortunately many people have lost their lives in that part,
principally when they were descending or with bad weather. We woke up very early today (at
4:00 am) to do a recognition is that delicate part, but we think it's not need to
put fixed ropes.
We were amazed by the good weather and a big wish to follow
towards the summit, but it's very important to respect our bodies. Although we are all
very well, we are aware it's not the right time yet. So, we did a long
descending to base-camp for a deserved rest. We intend to return to Hidden Peak within a
few days to have the final attack.
You can see some of our tents at camp 2 in Hidden Peak
at 6,500 m. In the back appear Gasherbrum 5 and 6 (from the right to the left). Abele
Blanc and Pepe Garces are next to the tent.
It's a pleasure to send you this message from
base-camp, after three important work days at high altitudes.
Our camp 2 is set at 6,500m. The hardest part of the climb,
the "Japanese Corridor", where we did a recognition and found some
good conditions. This means that we are in good conditions to go the final attack
towards the summit of Hidden Peak. With our strategy to stay in high altitudes
as short as possible, avoiding unnecessary worn to our body.
We're going to rest at base-camp, the weather is terrific.
Our idea is to return to camp 2, set a third camp at 7,200 m of altitude and
then go to 8,068 m of the highest of the Gasherbrums - Hidden Peak. We hope to do our next
attack within the next days, let's cheer for good weather.
The nice weather is also moving other expeditions.
Unfortunately those who go to Gasherbrum aren't so lucky. There is much snow, sometimes up
to waist, becoming a very hard job. A Korean displaced snow plate and went
down on an avalanche about 100m, and had just some scratches.
Today is Sunday, it's a shower day, it's time to call family
and friends. I leave you a photo where I appear in front of my tent. Regards
from Himalayans!
Hidden Peak - Base 5,220 m / Camp 1, 5,950 m,
37th day of the expedition
The weather keeps magnificent. Blue sky and a very
sunny day. So, we began our climb again today, aiming to set our last camp at 7,200 m and
go to the final attack to the 8,068 m of Hidden Peak. We need nice weather for more three
days, let's cheer everything succeeds.
Pepe Garces and I left the base at 5:00
pm to come to camp 1. Abele, Christian and Andrew are going to arrive tomorrow morning ,
because they prefer to leave at midnight and go direct to camp 2. As it is very hot the
danger of falling in a deep crack has increased a lot, there are immense
holes where there hadn't been before. A new pleasure is the full moon, which is granting
us a especial touch at nights. It's safer to climb at night, because the moon
light that reflects on the glacier leaves the night as clear as the day.
Update 6/29/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Hidden Peak - Camp 1, 5,950 m / Camp 2,
6,500m, 38th day of the expedition
Unfortunately the weather has changed during the
night. Our friends who where at base-camp didn't come up. Even with the strong wind and
the cloudy sky. Pepe and I have decided to go to camp 2. The idea might not be the best,
as the wind has kept blown and we were obliged to be inside the tent all afternoon long.
If the weather gets better, we're going to try to fix the ropes in the "Japanese
Corridor". Otherwise, we go down to base-camp.
It's a pity that the weather has changed so
quickly, because we are very enthusiastic about ending the climb to Hidden Peak.
I leave you a photo where there is the descending
of Gasherbrum. Our path follows on the right, on the snow sloping. Getting the superior
part, it's need to follow to right.
Hidden Peak - Camp 2, 6,500m/ Camp 3, 7,200m,
39th day of the expedition
It was a tough day today for Pepe Garces and I. We
put the equipment in the "Japanese Corridor". We decided to take a look in
details and we saw that the "Japanese Corridor" wasn't easy. We worked
from 7:00 am to 3:00 pm fixing 600 m of ropes. ( three 200m-reels of 8 mm ).
The ropes were from the Korean expedition that are going to climb Hidden Peak
too. Just one of them followed us to stretch the ropes, but sometimes they rolled more.
The weather is unstable, but even though it was possible to work. The wind has bothered us
a little.
Our friends who are at base-camp promise to come
here. If the weather gets better, we intend to do the final attack this weekend.
You see our camp 2, at 6,500m. The beginning of the
"Japanese Corridor" where our climb continues, it's the big snow spot that
appears in the back, between the two tents.
