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Manaslu 2003: Jeff Justman Dispatch

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Jeff Justman
Manaslu, at 8163 meters, is the eighth highest peak in the world. It is located in the west-central part of Nepal, and our team will climb it by the original route.

JJ’s Dispatch: I remember in the documentary film “Sherpa Unsung Heroes; The Making of a Sherpa”, a climber mentioned that most Himalayan expeditions would have a difficult time succeeding without the support of the Sherpa people. In our case that is definitely true! Our crew of Sherpas fixed the rope from Camp 1 to almost Camp 2. Our Team followed helping punch in the route towards 22,000 feet. However, we spend very little time out in front. Instead Lhakpa Sherpa would be trudging through the knee-deep snow. We spent 3 days above Camp 1 punching our way through the snow. The only problem is that every night it snows more. We spent the night at 21,000 feet after 7 exhausting hours of climbing on fixed line through deep snow.

That evening it snowed over 12 inches ruining our efforts of breaking a trail. The next day we climbed 500 more feet before we called it quits. I could see that everyone needed to rest especially our crew of Sherpa. When I told Lhakpa that we were going to cache our gear 500 feet below Camp 2, all the Sherpa smiled and they are still smiling at base camp, which is where we are now.

The first team consisting of Bruce, Shane, Will, Arnold, and myself will rest and relax at base camp for several days. Our plan is to climb to Camp 1 then to Camp 2 finally to Camp 3 and then hopefully the summit.

Our second team of climbers has arrived and they are beginning to carry gear to Camp 1 in order to acclimatize. There are also several international expeditions on the mountain including teams from Holland, Slovenia, and Poland. I am sure my mother, her maiden name Kawleski, is glad to know there are fellow Poles on the Mountain! And, “No Ma, they have not heard that song, ‘I am a Pollock from Paulownia’” Hope all is well. I will call again soon! JJ

Dispatches

Jeff Justman, veteran climber, author and motivational speaker. To book Jeff Justman e-mail here

 

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