||First call von Simone at 3
o’clock a.m. Tibet time (10 o’clock p.m. European time):
“Hi, we did start early… We climbed
on the fixed rope and then I fixed some more rope, but then it was too cold…
We didn’t feel our feet and so we decided to go back to our tent and here
we are warming up our feet with our cooker….!”
Second call, 7:30 a.m. European time:
“Hi, only now we are out of the channel. I can see Everest and Lhotse. We are
now at 7650m and it was very cold in the last hours, about – 40/45 degrees.
The last part was harder than I expected. I had to climb and some times I used
dry tooling. It was very difficult and I had to do much work without gloves,
fortunately I do not suffer cold too much…. I see also the summit and we will
continue, also if now it’s 12 o’clock a.m., but here there is sun till 6 p.m.
We hope to reach summit…..
Bye till later…!” Simone
9:50 a.m. European time: I’m real sad,
but it was too dangerous to continue. I phoned to the Spanish guy who opened
this route. They told me, that we have to rappel down about 50 meters to reach
the plateau. But the serac was more, about 100 meters and we did not have enough
rope. So we have to make a lot of difficult traverse instead of the easy
ridge. There the terrain was green ice or wind blowed snow… It was very
dangerous. At 2 p.m. we reached 7700, but Piotr is tired and said to me, that we
can continue but we have to make one bivy. I think this is too dangerous,
because it’s very cold and Piotr lost just some parts last winter in K2…. So I
prefer go back.
This is of sure the
8000 meter peak I attack better. I’m already powerful. Now I’m waiting Piotr
at the col for descending together…
Bye and hear us later”,
Hi to everybody. Now I'm here in Camp 2 with Darek. Piotr
went down to Camp 1, because he is too tired for one more attempt tomorrow.
Darek came up with Pierre, the Canadian guy, but he went also down...
Tomorrow, if my finger is ok (he has a little frostbite), Darek and me want to
try one more time for the summit... Hear us tomorrow Simone
Next dispatch >>>
Componenti Spedizione Shisha Pangma 8027 in invernale – parete sud
Simone Moro ITA
Piotr Morawski POL
Jacek Jawien POL
Darek Zaluski (cameraman e alpinista) POL
Jas Szulc (logista)POL