Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace
  
Contact

   Downloads
   E-mail (Free)
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews

   JustGiving

   Mailing List
   Media

   Medical
  
News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Search
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement

   Volunteer/help

 

    
  

 

  




  Simone Moro Winter Shishapangma: The Summit push


 
First call von Simone at 3 o’clock a.m. Tibet time (10 o’clock p.m. European time): “Hi, we did start early… We climbed on the fixed rope and then I fixed some more rope, but then it was too cold… We didn’t feel our feet and so we decided to go back to our tent and here we are warming up our feet with our cooker….!” 

Second call, 7:30 a.m. European time: “Hi, only now we are out of the channel. I can see Everest and Lhotse. We are now at 7650m and it was very cold in the last hours, about – 40/45 degrees. The last part was harder than I expected. I had to climb and some times I used dry tooling. It was very difficult and I had to do much work without gloves, fortunately I do not suffer cold too much…. I see also the summit and we will continue, also if now it’s 12 o’clock a.m., but here there is sun till 6 p.m. We hope to reach summit…..

Bye till later…!” Simone

9:50 a.m. European time: I’m real sad, but it was too dangerous to continue. I phoned to the Spanish guy who opened this route. They told me, that we have to rappel down about 50 meters to reach the plateau. But the serac was more, about 100 meters and we did not have enough rope. So we have to make a lot of difficult traverse instead of the easy ridge. There the terrain was green ice or wind blowed snow… It was very dangerous. At 2 p.m. we reached 7700, but Piotr is tired and said to me, that we can continue but we have to make one bivy. I think this is too dangerous, because it’s very cold and Piotr lost just some parts last winter in K2…. So I prefer go back.

This is of sure the 8000 meter peak I attack better. I’m already powerful. Now I’m waiting Piotr at the col for descending together…

Bye and hear us later”, Simone

Hi to everybody. Now I'm here in Camp 2 with Darek. Piotr went down to Camp 1, because he is too tired for one more attempt tomorrow. Darek came up with Pierre, the Canadian guy, but he went also down... Tomorrow, if my finger is ok (he has a little frostbite), Darek and me want to try one more time for the summit... Hear us tomorrow Simone

Next dispatch >>>

 

Pictures copyright Simone Moro

The Team: Componenti Spedizione Shisha Pangma 8027 in invernale – parete sud

Simone Moro ITA

Piotr Morawski POL

Jacek Jawien POL

Darek Zaluski (cameraman e alpinista) POL

Jas Szulc (logista)POL

 
Altitech2: Digital Altimeter, Barometer, Compass and Thermometer. Time/Date/Alarms. Chronograph with 24 hour working range. Timer with stop, repeat and up function. Rotating Bezel. Leveling bubble. Carabiner latch. E.L. 3 second backlight. Water resistant. 4" x 2-1/4" x 3/4" 2 oz. Requires 1 CR2032 battery. See more here.







 

  Altitude pre-
  
acclimatization

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Black Diamond

   Botas

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   CaVa Climbing Shoes
   Clearance

   Clif Bar

   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Garmin

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps
   Helmets

   HighGear
   Ice Axes

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Lowepro

   Motorola

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Outdoor Designs

   Pelican

   PowerBar

   Princeton Tec

   Prescription Glacier

   Glasses

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Trekking Poles
   Ushba
  
and more here

 

 



  



Send email to     •   Copyright© 1998-2003 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it