Simone Moro Winter Shishapangma: The Summit push

First call von Simone at 3 o’clock a.m. Tibet time (10 o’clock p.m. European time): “Hi, we did start early… We climbed on the fixed rope and then I fixed some more rope, but then it was too cold… We didn’t feel our feet and so we decided to go back to our tent and here we are warming up our feet with our cooker….!”

Second call, 7:30 a.m. European time: “Hi, only now we are out of the channel. I can see Everest and Lhotse. We are now at 7650m and it was very cold in the last hours, about – 40/45 degrees. The last part was harder than I expected. I had to climb and some times I used dry tooling. It was very difficult and I had to do much work without gloves, fortunately I do not suffer cold too much…. I see also the summit and we will continue, also if now it’s 12 o’clock a.m., but here there is sun till 6 p.m. We hope to reach summit…..

Bye till later…!” Simone

9:50 a.m. European time: I’m real sad, but it was too dangerous to continue. I phoned to the Spanish guy who opened this route. They told me, that we have to rappel down about 50 meters to reach the plateau. But the serac was more, about 100 meters and we did not have enough rope. So we have to make a lot of difficult traverse instead of the easy ridge. There the terrain was green ice or wind blowed snow… It was very dangerous. At 2 p.m. we reached 7700, but Piotr is tired and said to me, that we can continue but we have to make one bivy. I think this is too dangerous, because it’s very cold and Piotr lost just some parts last winter in K2…. So I prefer go back.

This is of sure the 8000 meter peak I attack better. I’m already powerful. Now I’m waiting Piotr at the col for descending together…

Bye and hear us later”, Simone

Hi to everybody. Now I'm here in Camp 2 with Darek. Piotr went down to Camp 1, because he is too tired for one more attempt tomorrow. Darek came up with Pierre, the Canadian guy, but he went also down... Tomorrow, if my finger is ok (he has a little frostbite), Darek and me want to try one more time for the summit... Hear us tomorrow Simone

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The Team: Componenti Spedizione Shisha Pangma 8027 in invernale – parete sud Simone Moro ITA Piotr Morawski POL Jacek Jawien POL Darek Zaluski (cameraman e alpinista) POL Jas Szulc (logista)POL

 

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