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Dec. 1-10th,1999 Daily Reports
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Daily News: 12/10/99 Report
EverestNews.com was planning on waiting several weeks to
begin discussing the Spring Expeditions. However, the feedback from You our readers, and
the climbers is : Let's Go !
So Go we will...
Graham Ratcliffe returns to Everest ! Now don't confuse
Graham Ratcliffe with Graham Hoyland. They both have reached the Summit of Everest and are
both Brits. Graham Hoyland has the Mallory connection. Graham Ratcliffe last Spring became
the first Brit to Summit Everest from both the North and South Sides. They both are great
climbers and very well liked guys.
This Spring Graham Ratcliffe plans to return to clean up
both the South Col and the Western Cwn. He tells EverestNews.com, " we hope to
be going in on a Lhotse permit to stop any Temptation (at the Everest Summit)."
Now there is a truthful man ...
He is seeking Corporate Sponsors. Check out his web site:
http://members.tripod.co.uk/ggratcliffe/
Daily News: 12/9/99 Report
- Everest Spring 2000 Expeditions
Byron Smith is returning to Everest
http://cbc.ca/news/indepth/everest2000/
EverestNews.com discussed with Byron today his planned 2000
Everest expedition. Some facts you might be interested in: He plans on 8 news updates a day, for 5 minutes each, over a 3 month period.
EverestNews.com plans on working with Byron and several
other expeditions for Everest Spring 2000...
Check out his new site for more:
http://cbc.ca/news/indepth/everest2000/
Daily News: 12/8/99 Report
- Everest Winter Expeditions
15 climbers have reached the Summit of Everest in Winter,
however, all by the Nepal side of the mountain. No climber has reached the Summit by the
North side in winter ever in the winter. Expeditions from Poland, Japan, and South Korea
have reached the summit in winter, via routes in Nepal.
Very few expeditions has ever even attempted the Summit from
the north during the winter.
Robert Anderson, from the United States is presently
attempting Everest from the North via Tibet. Robert is well liked by many climbers and has
attempted Everest seven times (since 1985) but has not reached the top yet. Robert
is once again attempting a very difficult climb. His changes for success is very low.
Robert has two Sherpa climbers which him. The names and backgrounds of which
EverestNews.com has been unable to obtain.
As far as other expeditions, EverestNews.com knows of no
other expeditions this winter. Several were discussed, but as far as we know, no other
climbers has left for the mountain.
Since the heavy snowfall, probably a very wise move...
Daily News: 12/7/99 Report
www.k2news.com Summit
list has been "completed". All K2 Summits to date are listed.
- EverestNews.com hopes to list all Everest summits sometime in
2000.
- Coming Soon: Everest Winter Expeditions/attempts...
Daily News: 12/6/99 Report
Nepal’s two busiest airstrip to be closed
The Government of Nepal has decided to close down the
airports at Lukla and Jomsom for repair. Starting from May next year it will take 14
months and more for the renovations, extension and tarring of runway, construction of
terminals and parking space at these airports.
May, however, is the peak mountaineering and trekking season
and the closure of these airports will of course hamper the tourism industry of Nepal.
Trekking operators say that their tours have been booked in advance to celebrate the new
millennium and will be seriously affected by the closing down of the two busiest airports
in the country. Moreover it is also going to effect the Sports Year 2001 and Destination
Nepal Year 2002, claims the tourism entrepreneurs of Nepal.
Aviation officials claim that the airport will open for two
and half months from October when the tourist flow increases. They also say that with
another parallel runway, the flights will not stop but the experts and technicians state
that this will not be a practical alternative.
During the tourist season, more than 30 planes land daily at
Lukla airport and at least six flight operate during the off season. At Jomsom airport
12-15 planes land every day and 2-4 planes even during the off season.
Reported by Himalaya Center, Kathmandu / Nepal.
Daily News: 12/4/99 Report
- Autumn Everest 99: Spanish Expedition, A Thank You to all of
you that sent messages to the Spanish Expedition form the Expedition Leader.
It is not demagoguery to write on the topic of receiving
messages from beloved friends. The affection felt grew during the expedition. Although we
did not know many of you personally, I can assure to you that with your
messages you, alone, made it possible to maintain the moral of the troops. Imagine the
scene: Nine people on their own, hoping to work a mountain that is hidden to us, almost
fleeing from us behind a snow curtain that falls tamely and that is beautiful -- and
heartless. The routine and the inability to do anything sunk the expedition members into
the blackest of emptiness.
It is cold and the hours advance with a slowness that is incomprehensible to your thoughts
or desires. But, due to wonders of technology, the connection to Internet via satellite
breaks our isolation! In just a few moments, the
messages received bring a rich variety of commentaries and opinions, jokes and gadgets,
news and trivialities, prose and intermingled verse, and manifestations of contained
desires of people to those who had liked to live our adventure. Reading the messages helps
us forget our black thoughts and makes us feel important and know that what we are doing
is interesting to somebody. When leaving our dining room towards the tents that we used to
sleep, shaking in the irregularities of the glacier, until it appears some star that you
do a wink to us of complicity. The night will become more bearable.
The Expedition SAMUEL RUBIO EVEREST'99 of Castilla and Leon
has finalized but they left many tracks and now, after the necessary rest, all have been
rejuvenated and the worst moments are even thought as beautiful. My gratefulness, like
that of all the members of the Expedition, for the excellent help you provided is
uncountable. To think of all that we have
been through on the glaciers of Everest, as much as we physically lived the adventure, you
followed it from your houses. We do not say good bye to you rather, "Until next
time".
A strong hug,
Isidoro
Daily News: 12/3/99 Report
The Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation has granted
permission to 8 teams for carrying out mountaineering expeditions on 2 different mountains
from 4 different countries of the world during the Winter Season (1st Dec. to
15 Feb.) 1999/2000. Out of 8 teams 3 teams are permitted to climb Mt. Manaslu & 5
teams to Mt. Ama Dablam.
SN |
Expedition
Team |
Name
of the Peak & Height |
Ascent
Route |
Name
of the Leader |
Country |
Members |
1 |
1999
American T-3 Ama Dableam Exp' 1999/2000 Winter |
Ama
Dablam (6812m) |
SR |
Mr.
Alan Kerney |
USA |
6 |
2 |
1999
American Ama Dablam Exp' USA |
Ama
Dablam (6812m) |
SWR |
Ms.
Cathy Ann Taylor |
USA |
7 |
3 |
Winter
Ama Dablam II Exp'. USA |
Ama
Dablam (6812m) |
SWR |
Ms.
Melissa Kade |
USA |
7 |
4 |
1999
PMG Ama Dablam Winter Exp'. |
Ama
Dablam (6812m) |
SWR |
Mr.
James M. Williams |
USA |
7 |
5 |
Winter'
99 Ama Dablam Exp'. UK |
Ama
Dablam (6812m) |
SWR |
Mr.
Henry B. Todd |
G.
Britain |
10 |
6 |
Sapporo
Alpine Associations Manaslu Exp. |
Manaslu
(8163m) |
NER |
Mr.
Koichi Ezaki |
Japan |
7 |
7 |
Danish
Manaslu Expedition' 99 |
Manaslu
(8163m) |
NER |
Mr.
Michael Stryno |
Denmark |
2 |
8 |
Japan
Gunma Winter Mt. Manaslu Exp. |
Manaslu
(8163m) |
East
Face |
Mr.
Hideji Nazuka |
Japan |
7 |
Source: Reported by Himalaya Center,
Kathmandu / Nepal.
Daily News: 12/2/99 Report
Q&A Mallory Questions for
Graham Hoyland, as he answers your Mallory Questions
and others... On EverestNews.com You ask the Questions. Submit to everestnews2004@adelphia.net Graham Hoyland, as he answers your Mallory Questions
and others... On EverestNews.com You ask the Questions. Submit to everestnews2004@adelphia.net Graham Hoyland, as he answers your Mallory Questions
and others... On EverestNews.com You ask the Questions. Submit to everestnews2004@adelphia.net
More answers ...
Q.) Is the American film of the Mallory and
Irvine research expedition different from the BBC documentary and if so will it be shown
in the UK?
A.) [Graham Hoyland] This film will be
subtly different, coming as it does from a channel with a more scientific slant. It won't
be shown in Britain, just as the BBC version won't be shown in the States. It's a shame,
as the audiences would presumably like to see both versions.
Q.) Will you or any members of the 1999 team be
returning to look for Irvine?
A.) [Graham Hoyland] I would love to
return, but I would have to raise $35,000 to get there. My ambition is to retrieve my
great-uncle's camera and give Sandy Irvine a decent burial.
EverestNews.com Editors Note: You can
support Graham by purchasing his novel on www.k2news.com
Graham receives almost all the revenue.
Q.) Who owns the artifacts taken from Mallory's
body?
A.) [Graham Hoyland] As far as I know the
family own them, and the family will be getting them back.
Q.) Have you spoken to Brian Blessed about the
discovery of Mallory's body and how did he react?
A.) [Graham Hoyland] I've written
to Brian, but haven't heard back yet.
Q.) Graham: How difficult is the NE shoulder
with hobnailed shoes instead of crampons?
A.) [Graham Hoyland] I assume you mean
the grip afforded by nails versus spikes. The dangers of the snow-covered sloping rock
slabs of the North East shoulder must have been even greater with those short tricouni
nails- and may well have allowed the fatal slip. But have you also considered the
difficulties of unfreezing your frozen leather boots over a spirit stove at 8000 meters? I
think plastic boots are the single greatest advance we've made since 1924- and even now it
can take you half an hour of struggle to get your boots and crampons on at great
altitudes.
Q.) Also they wore woolen clothing instead of a
down filled duvet as at least one of the climbers on that expedition did. Could
Mallory and Irvine been warm enough to get any higher than 27,000 feet?
A.) [Graham Hoyland] Funnily enough, when
you're exerting yourself you don't seem to suffer too much from the cold up there, and
remember it was well into June. I can't see why they couldn't have gone to the summit with
what they were wearing. But when they stopped climbing they would surely have felt
cold almost immediately. And of course the chances of surviving a night without shelter
are just about nil.
Graham
Daily News: 12/1/99 Report
Rock climbing info for Kalymnos on the web, at the official site of Kalymnos island
www.kalymnos-isl.gr/climb
Kalymnos 2000
Paneuropean Climbers’ Meeting
2 – 8 October 2000
Organized by EOS Acharnes and the Municipality of Kalymnos
With the support of the Greek mountaineering & Rock climbing
Federation
Dear friends,
We invite you to the paneuropean climbers’ meeting
“Kalymnos 2000” from the 2nd to 8th October 2000. It will
be a novel event, a meeting for alternative athletics and culture, on a forgotten border
island of Greece.
Kalymnos, the sponge fishers’ island, is the epicentre of
rock-climbing among the Greek islands, and is rapidly developing to become one of
Europe’s most important climbing fields.
An island paradise for climbers, it was discovered recently by
the well-known Italians, Andrea di Bari and Andrea Gallo. After the publication of
articles in magazines of international fame “Alp”, “Rotpunk” &
“Vertical” by Andrea Gallo and J. P. Tauvron, a considerable number of Germans
and Austrians as well as Italians now visit the island.
The rock formations are of excellent quality, forming a field
for athletic rock-climbing of amazing possibilities.
There are already one hundred and fifty safe sport climbing
routes on the climbing fields, and new ones are being added every day.
The Mayor of Kalymnos, Demetrios Diakomichales, has embraced
the efforts recognizing the opportunities offered to the island, and has promised the
Municipality’s full aid in everything necessary for the organization of the climbing
fields.
The Municipality of Kalymnos, the Mountain Climbing Club of
Acharnes, and mountain climbing organizations from all over Europe are co-operating in the
organization of a paneuropean rock-climbing meeting in Kalymnos the first week of October.
The event has the ambition of surpassing just an athletic
meeting to become a cultural event with great meaning for the cultural and financial
development of a border island like Kalymnos.
Aims of the meeting are as follows:
- The development of friendship and co-operation among European climbers
- The opening of new climbing routes (sponsors for the free disposition of bolts
are required)
- The informing of the local population about mountain climbing and rock-climbing.
- The cultural and touristic promotion of the island through rock-climbing.
At the same time as the meeting of the rock-climbers, on the
weekend of 7th-8th October, mountain hikers, locals and all over
Greek, will go round the dense network of mountain paths which exists, with the continuous
views of the Aegean.
The program includes – what else – rock-climbing from
the morning to the evening, while after 6 o’clock, various events will be taking
place in Pothia, the island capital.
In co-operation with the hotel owners of Kalymnos, a special
packet price for the whole period has been arranged for rock climbing participants.
Information and declarations of participation to:
The Hellenic Alpine Club of Acharnes,
126, Philadelphias Street,
13671 Acharnes.
Tel. +30 1 2461528, 2404100
Fax. -+30 1 2469777
E-mail. eosa@ath.forthnet.gr
eosa@ath.forthnet.gr eosa@ath.forthnet.gr
In charge of rock-climbing
Aris Theodoropoulos, Mountain
Guide, at aritheo@otenet.gr
Rock climbing info for Kalymnos on the
web, at www.kalymnos-isl.gr/climb
URL "Greece Rock climbing
info" www.oreivatein.com/climb
URL "Climbing in Greece" www.center.gr/climb
More answers on Wednesday ...
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