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Feb 11-20th, 2000 Daily Reports
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Daily News: 2/19/2000 Report
Russell Brice returns to
Everest:
Russell will again be on the North
Side of Everest in Spring 2000. However, for 2000 he has returned to using western guides.
At least three, EverestNews.com has learned: Chris Warner, Andy
Lapkas, and Mark Whetu, plus around 7 other clients.
EverestNews.com assumes Brice will
continue to use Asian-Trekking for his support and H.A. Sherpa climbers along with the
western guides.
In 1999, Brice did not use any
western guides, but used Sherpas from Asian-Trekking.
EverestNews.com does not know any
specifics on how these clients or others will be supported.
- If you missed it: There are several
Q&As on the Home Page listed. These include Q&A's from Graham Hoyland and Eric Simonson on
the Mallory findings. Check them out !
More Soon on Mallory & Irvine 2000.
Daily News: 2/18/2000 Report
Part 6:
Q.) Now my question. Like
many people, I would like to think Mallory did make it to the summit. But Odell saw them on what
he said a prominent, rock step. And am i right in thinking, that you don't know whether it
was the first, second or third step. Then Odell says he lost them, because of the snow
squall, that brought down a layer of fresh snow, he then said he didn't see them
again. Surely if they had reached the summit, he would have had another sighting of them.
A.) [Jochen] This is surely one of
the biggest problems. However, if they had already been below the Second Step (without
having reached the top) at the time Odell started scanning the ridge (after 4 p.m.), they
could easily have been lost from sight against the numerous rocks and snow patches.
Moreover, the ridge between the Second and Third Steps is curved in a way that climbers
traversing back to the Second Step from the base of the Final Pyramid are hidden from view
to watchers below. A permanent watch of the ridge was not kept until 7 p.m., when Odell
arrived back at the North Col.
Q.) Hi Jochen, Do we know how long
M&I's rope was on their last attempt? There is mention in the expedition accounts of a
200' rope used to rescue porters, etc. Do you think they took such a long rope with them
on an attempt where weight was so critical?
A.) [Jochen] I doubt they did:
standard climbing ropes used in the Alps at the time were about 100 ft. long.
Q.) And if they did, here's some
speculation for you. Assuming that they used part of it to rappel the 2nd Step, would
anything have been left of a hemp rope after 36 years of exposure - when the Chinese
ascended it in 1960? And speaking of the early Chinese attempts, do we know for sure of
any artifacts that they may have found that would be of interest to us today? Pete
A.) [Jochen] The Chinese did not
report finding anything above the Second Step in 1960. Their own rappel rope was found
tied to a boulder by the 1975 summit team. The "mystery tent" apparently found
above the Yellow Band is enigmatic, and more research needs to be done on this one.
Q.) We know how the Chinese climbed
the "verticle prow" of the 2nd Step in 1975-one climber used his bare feet &
another stood on his shoulder to get over. The Chinese installed the metal ladder in the
2nd Step on that expedition. Do you have any idea how the Chinese surmounted the 2nd Step
in their 1960 expedition?
A.) [Jochen] You mix up the two
expeditions here: It was on the 1960 climb that Qu Yinhua stood on Liu Lienman's shoulders
to overcome the Second Step headwall. Qu had removed his boots and socks either to gain a
better grip on the rock or, more likely, to avoid hurting his partner. They also used at
least three pitons to aid the pitch, climbing the wall just to the right of Anker's crack.
In 1975, the Chinese installed the
ladder to avoid repeating the 1960 experience. They found the pitons left behind 15 years
earlier, and on top of the Second Step came across part of the 1960 party's rappel rope,
tied to a boulder. The years of exposure had faded the rope's color from red to yellow,
yet it was still strong enough to withstand pulls. Just for completion of the story:
Photographic evidence in the 1960 film shows that they reached at least the foot of the
Third Step, 250 ft. above the top of the Second Step. Topographical details included in
their first reports match the route from there to the summit, i.e. they describe the
summit snowfield, the traverse around the summit tower and mistaking the first rise of the
final ridge for the summit - an experience repeated by Matt Dickinson in 1996, and
described in almost identical words. No direct evidence that they reached the summit, but
a strong probability.
Q.) Jochen, Thanks again for all
your responses. Jochen from where the position of George Mallory was found, I was wondering
if you deduce where you'd think where the body Irvine may be? Do you think is to the left
or to the right of Mallory?
A.) [Jochen] Closer to the Chinese
1975 Camp VI, which means more likely to the left of Mallory's position, and also higher.
Q.) Do we know with certainty if
Mallory and Irvine had available for them a stove at Camp 6 prior to their summit attempt?
A.) [Jochen] Their equipment list
contains one stove and fuel. I think this is the stove they wanted to use at Camp V, and
therefore the stove they wanted Odell to use & the stove that was lost. There was no
stove at Camp V before their attempt, because Norton & Somervell had taken theirs to
Camp VI. I doubt M & I would have continued their ascent (which they did) if they
hadn't counted on Norton & Somervell's stove waiting at Camp VI.
Q.) What was Mallory & Irvine's
food supply prior to their summit attempt? at altitude one's appetite tends to drop
so that may not be a big concern but a stove and the melting of water and of hydrating
does. Thanks for your time Jochen
A.) [Jochen] Their equipment list
contains raisins, prunes, biscuits, chocolate, Kendal mint cake, butter scotch and ginger
nuts. Also tea, milk, macaroni, sliced ham and tongue. There is also a list written by
Norton, "taken to Camp V on June 3 (sic, meaning June 2)", so some of Norton's
supplies may have remained at the high camps. Another list, written by Irvine, notes other
items, including 2 boxes of meat lozenges. And finally, Geoffrey Bruce sent some food up
to the North Col the day prior to M & I's attempt, apparently requested by Mallory:
two tins of Bully Beef, two tins of Bovril, biscuits, beef tongue, foiegras, and
additional fuel for the stoves. For the stove itself, see 8.)
The Book
Ghosts of Everest;
The Search for Mallory & Irvine by Jochen Hemmleb, Eric Simonson, Larry
Johnson
Hardcover - 208 pages
(October 1999) The Mountaineers Books; Price reduced !
The papers:
Jochen
Hemmleb's Research Papers
- Next on Mallory & Irvine:
Questions from the Staff at EverestNews.com
Many of the behind the scenes
questions.
For Example: Let's suppose the
camera is found. Does it not belong to the family ? And is the film not copyrighted ?? Can
any else publish it ?
Maybe we can go in-depth on
these Questions and others.
Daily News: 2/17/2000 Report
- Everest Spring 2000: Who is going ?
Everyone it seems someday.
We have Peter Habeler, Hans van der
Meulen (famous Dutch climber who summited K2), Andrew Lock (famous Australian climber who
summited K2), Juanito Oiarzabal (who has summited ALL the 14 8000 meter peaks, without
question we should add), and many more famous climbers from all over the world. Some still
working on sponsors.
On Expedition/Teams, we have
climbers from Germany, Austria, France, Belgium. We have the Danish, Americas, Dutch
(many), French Canadians, Australians, Canadians, Spanish (many), British, and the Nepali
women along others.
Everest Spring 2000 is
expected to be packed !
The Snow:
EverestNews.com has received News from two sources that the Snow "up high" is
believed to be "light". We will know more in April and May. Expect teams to arrive early and get going
as the race for first up in 2000 starts. They also
have the Irvine issue...
Adventure
Consultants still has opening for their Everest Base Camp Trek (South Side): if you happen
to have 22 days free in April there are still 5 spaces left. This a perfect opportunity to
stretch your legs in the Khumbu Valley. Dates March 29 - April 19, Price US$2500 per
person ex Kathmandu.
Daily News: 2/16/2000 Report
- Graham Ratcliffe: Lhotse 2000
Expedition
"Unusually
heavy snowfalls at the end of last season appear not to be clearing and will be covering
much of the rubbish we were hoping to clear this spring.
After careful
consideration www.highambitions.com has
decided to postpone the expedition until spring 2001, we feel it would be unwise to spend
the funds we have managed to raise to date and rush in when we think we will have a much
better chance of success by being patient - a good motto for most mountain
situations." Graham Ratcliffe
Graham and his team
was planning an environment expedition to help clean up Everest. For all the details see
their web site.
Daily News: 2/15/2000 Report
Part 5:
Q.) I felt that the single most
important piece of information that was discovered by the M&I Research Expedition of
1999 was the condition of George's body. The second was where they found it.
I believe there is now sufficient
information in the above two facts to reasonably place M&I as having climbed beyond
28,280 ft, thus surmounting the second Step, and making it to at least the rock band under
the summit pyramid. I also believe the evidence clearly points to M&I returning
by a different route than what they took when climbing up. I can not from what I
know place them on top of Everest.
The Body:
The condition of Mallory's body
would indicate that he (they) did not fall from the ridge. He was stretched out with arms
and hands extended up the slope; legs extended down the slope. This is not how an
unconscious body, falling from a great height, over rocky terrain, would come to
rest. Other bodies within the fall zone of the ridge are referred to as mangled and
twisted. This doesn't represent Mallory.
So if he (they) didn't fall from the
ridge, which I would estimate to be about 1,000 vertical ft. higher plus horizontal
distance across rocky terraces near the top and larger snow fields towards the bottom,
then he (they) fell from somewhere lower down. And to have stopped in that stretched
out position, relatively free of cuts or marks to the back testifies to some control
during the fall, probably conscious until coming to rest, indicates to me that he (they)
could not have fallen far.
Location and Return Route:
The 1999 M&I Research
Expedition found Mallory west of the targeted search area. So now the question
becomes one of explaining why and how he (they) got from the ridge to a point lower down
on the mountain face, from which he (they) fell.
I would look at the topography and
what Somervell and Norton had accomplished a few days earlier to provide the clues.
Mallory and Irvine simply were on a different route going down than what they took going
up ... by choice. I appears to me entirely likely that they fell from about the same
traverse line that Somervell and Norton had used a few days earlier. This would
place them about 500 ft. lower than the ridge line and on less slopping terrain with fewer
terraces; thus the overall good condition of the body and location at its final place of
rest.
To get them down to the Somervell
and Norton's traverse line, I must admit is speculation. But the location and condition of
the body has to be accounted for some way. If they were using this line of traverse
coming down, when he (they) fell, it would explain such.
Two clues point me in this
direction. First, Mr. Odell searching pattern of 1924. Where did he look for
them.? Up on the ridge where he had seen them? No! The first time he
"struck out across the mountainside" ( The Last Climb). "He set out
on the North Face of the mountain, whistling and yodeling" (First On Everest).
The next time up he clearly states that, "he searched about on the slabs to the west
of Camp VI to about 28,000 ft." (The Last Climb). "... on vast expanse of
crags and broken slabs" (Odell from First On Everest). Why west? And to
28,000 ft. is a long ways out. I realize that Camp VI had been moved to a higher
position by M&I and the porters. (We could go into that later.) A search across the
mountainside or west of this site, Camp VI's new location, to almost 28,000 ft would have
had to have been along the traverse line of Somervell and Norton would it not? But
Odell had seen them on the ridge line. Why would he not have moved up towards and
onto the ridge if they were to be coming back that way? But he went out across the
mountain side, on the slabs. Why west unless he knew something about a possible
different return route? I have not found where he was asked this question or made
comment.
The second clue for them to be on
the Somervell and Norton traverse line coming back has a lot to do with the sighting of
them by Odell and the difficulties of the Second Step. I don't know why Mallory
favored the ridge route going up when Somervell and Norton had earlier (like wise Wager
and Harris later in1933, the Chinese in 1960 and/or 1975) favored more of a traverse
line. But for whatever reason we know that they were on the ridge, (sighted by Odell
at 12:50 pm and confirmed on the ridge in 1999 with the find of the 1924 oxygen bottle)
but Mallory's body indicates a fall from a lessor height. Somewhere after 12:50 pm
he (they) had to abandon the ridge line in order to have fallen from a lower altitude.
So where and when? Odell's
sighting, 12:50 pm, plus the topography would indicate that they could only have dropped
down to the Somervell and Norton traverse line from near the rocky bands at the base of
the summit pyramid. If something would have blocked their path once they reached the
ridge, between early morning to mid day, then a retreat back down the ridge seems in
order. To drop from the ridge just below the Second Step down to the Somervell and
Norton traverse line or even to traverse towards it appears unlikely do to the
topography. But since they are still on the ridge line at 12:50 pm it would appear
that the only reasonable way to place them on the traverse line of Somervell and Norton,
later in the day, after 12;50 pm, and to find Mallory's body so far west, is to have them
continue on to the base of the summit pyramid. Somervell and Norton had reported it
to be only about 200 ft above them at Norton's high point and not too difficult ( The Last
Climb ). They would then have had an option available to them. Return at some
time back down the ridge or drop down the Coulior, return along this known climbable route
to Camp VI. This would eliminate the need to go back down over the Second Step. The
choice to drop to the lower line for return could have been made days earlier or once they
got up the Second Step and realized the difficulty presented in going down it. It doesn't
matter. The Coulior is the connection from the ridge line, I think just above the
Third Step, to the Somervell and Norton traverse line. I do not see any other route
that could have gotten him (them) off the ridge line, lower, and still be found that far
west and in reasonably good state of condition.
Maybe some oxygen bottles and
possibly their oxygen carrying packs will some day be found near the base of the summit
pyramid. They did not believe that oxygen was of any value when going down. Is
this an open area that climbers would be taking different routes through?
Could Mallory's mind set on keeping to the ridge influence the way they would come into
this area verses today's climbing route(s)?
Did they go to the top? I
don't know. Irvine doesn't appear to have an ice ax and the rest of the way is
mainly on snow and ice. I don't know where George's ax is either. The missing
picture of Ruth Mallory, five unaccounted for oxygen bottles, two backpacks to carry them,
a camera that I seriously doubt will be found on Irvine's body do to ... well, I don't
want to get into that here, all on a mountain that is moving at nearly one inch per year
... the mystery will be around awhile. I would appreciate your thoughts in return.
Thank you for your time and
consideration
A.) [Jochen] "I have to go
over this one step-by-step: "
Q..) I felt that the single most
important piece of information that was discovered by the M&I Research Expedition of
1999 was the condition of George's body. The second was where they found it.
I believe there is now sufficient
information in the above two facts to reasonably place M&I as having climbed beyond
28,280 ft, thus surmounting the second Step, and making it to at least the rock band under
the summit pyramid. I also believe the evidence clearly points to M&I returning
by a different route than what they took when climbing up. I can not from what I
know place them on top of Everest.
The Body:
The condition of Mallory's body
would indicate that he (they) did not fall from the ridge. He was stretched out with arms
and hands extended up the slope; legs extended down the slope. This is not how an
unconscious body, falling from a great height, over rocky terrain, would come to rest.
Other bodies within the fall zone of the ridge are referred to as mangled and
twisted. This doesn't represent Mallory.
So if he (they) didn't fall from the
ridge, which I would estimate to be about 1,000 vertical ft. higher plus horizontal
distance across rocky terraces near the top and larger snow fields towards the bottom,
then he (they) fell from somewhere lower down. And to have stopped in that stretched
out position, relatively free of cuts or marks to the back testifies to some control
during the fall, probably conscious until coming to rest, indicates to me that he (they)
could not have fallen far.
________________________________________________________
A.) [Jochen] "It is true that
many of our search team felt that Mallory's injuries were too mild to have been caused by
a fall all the way from the ridge crest. The apparent self-arrest position is something of
a mystery when you consider the severe head wound discovered during the second search
effort. However, a pathologist once confirmed that periods of consciousness are known from
people with similar head injuries - so Mallory could have remained conscious for a time
long enough to either crawl a short distance or maintain his self-arrest position."
________________________________________________________
Q.) Location and Return Route:
The 1999 M&I Research
Expedition found Mallory west of the targeted search area. So now the question
becomes one of explaining why and how he (they) got from the ridge to a point lower down
on the mountain face, from which he (they) fell.
I would look at the topography and
what Somervell and Norton had accomplished a few days earlier to provide the clues.
Mallory and Irvine simply were on a different route going down than what they took going
up .... by choice. I appears to me entirely likely that they fell from about the
same traverse line that Somervell and Norton had used a few days earlier. This would
place them about 500 ft. lower than the ridge line and on less slopping terrain with fewer
terraces; thus the overall good condition of the body and location at its final place of
rest.
To get them down to the Somervell
and Norton's traverse line, I must admit is speculation. But the location and condition of
the body has to be accounted for some way. If they were using this line of traverse
coming down, when he (they) fell, it would explain such.
______________________________________________________
A.) [Jochen] "First, Mallory
was NOT found west of the targeted search area. The center of the targeted search area was
determined by intersection of a fall line from the place of the ice-ax and a horizontal
walk from the Chinese 1975 Camp VI - that's all what could have been done with the
available clues before the expedition. In the end, a body - Mallory - was found BELOW the
targeted search area, at the very bottom edge of the so-called Snow Terrace. It was at the
outmost radius of the general search area - had Mallory fallen a few yards farther, he
would have gone off the edge of a cliff band and vanished in the void of the North Face.
To have come to rest in the place where he was found, and in the condition in which he was
found, Mallory must have fallen from a point BELOW the ridge crest, but not necessarily
off his route of ascent. He could have fallen from the gully leading up through the Yellow
Band from Camp VI, which is now the common route - although I tend to agree that he must
have been farther to the west, perhaps half the horizontal distance between the gully and
the First Step." ____________________________________________________
Q.) Two clues point me in this
direction. First, Mr. Odell searching pattern of 1924. Where did he look for
them.? Up on the ridge where he had seen them? No! The first time he
"struck out across the mountainside" ( The Last Climb). "He set out
on the North Face of the mountain, whistling and yodeling" (First On Everest).
The next time up he clearly states that, "he searched about on the slabs to the west
of Camp VI to about 28,000 ft." (The Last Climb). "... on vast expanse of
crags and broken slabs" (Odell from First On Everest). Why west? And to
28,000 ft. is a long ways out. I realize that Camp VI had been moved to a higher
position by M&I and the porters. (We could go into that later.) A search across the
mountainside or west of this site, Camp VI's new location, to almost 28,000 ft would have
had to have been along the traverse line of Somervell and Norton would it not? But
Odell had seen them on the ridge line. Why would he not have moved up towards and
onto the ridge if they were to be coming back that way? But he went out across the
mountain side, on the slabs. Why west unless he knew something about a possible
different return route? I have not found where he was asked this question or made
comment. ________________________________________________________
A.) [Jochen] "The suggestion
that the camp was moved higher stems from Noel's book and is in all probability false.
From Odell's description and from where the 1933 party found the remains, it is highly
likely that the camp had remained in the same place where it had been established by
Norton & Somervell. Secondly, I don't believe Odell went as high as 28.000 ft. (the
foot of the First Step). Although he assumed so (only guessing, in fact) in an interview
for Breashears' 1986 film about the mystery, one has to put the following points into
consideration: a) Odell climbed up for about one hour. b) He did not use oxygen. c) The
camp was located near the crest of the North Ridge.
From this, it appears that Odell
traversed over the north-eastern part of the Snow Terrace to near the entry of the gully
leading up through the Yellow Band. The time taken is consistent with that of other
oxygen-less parties (Norton & Somervell, Smythe & Shipton). The "slabs west
of Camp VI" (in 1924) would have meant the north-eastern part of the Snow Terrace, as
you do not approach the ridge crest from anywhere nearer Camp VI than the described gully
(only Longland's party descended a different way by following a ledge system all the way
to the top of the North Ridge - but any party going up would try to reach the crest in a
long ascending traverse from Camp VI. The main difference between Norton's traverse and
the approach to the ridge crest is that the former ascends at a more shallow angle - the
start of both routes is very similar.)"
Q.) The second clue for them to be
on the Somervell and Norton traverse line coming back has a lot to do with the sighting of
them by Odell and the difficulties of the Second Step. I don't know why Mallory
favored the ridge route going up when Somervell and Norton had earlier (like wise Wager
and Harris later in1933, the Chinese in 1960 and/or 1975) favored more of a traverse line.
But for whatever reason we know that they were on the ridge, (sighted by Odell at
12:50 pm and confirmed on the ridge in 1999 with the find of the 1924 oxygen bottle) but
Mallory's body indicates a fall from a lessor height. Somewhere after 12:50 pm
he (they) had to abandon the ridge line in order to have fallen from a lower altitude.
A.) [Jochen] "Wager & Wyn
Harris traversed higher than Norton & Somervell, following the ridge crest to the base
of the First Step and then staying along the top edge of the Yellow Band. From what we
know, the Chinese stuck to the ridge crest route, either ascending or by passing the First
Step before continuing to the Second Step."
Q.) So where and when?
Odell's sighting, 12:50 pm, plus the topography would indicate that they could only have
dropped down to the Somervell and Norton traverse line from near the rocky bands at the
base of the summit pyramid. If something would have blocked their path once they
reached the ridge, between early morning to mid day, then a retreat back down the
ridge seems in order. To drop from the ridge just below the Second Step down to the
Somervell and Norton traverse line or even to traverse towards it appears unlikely do to
the topography. But since they are still on the ridge line at 12:50 pm it would
appear that the only reasonable way to place them on the traverse line of Somervell and
Norton, later in the day, after 12;50 pm, and to find Mallory's body so far west, is to
have them continue on to the base of the summit pyramid. Somervell and Norton had
reported it to be only about 200 ft above them at Norton's high point and not too
difficult ( The Last Climb ). They would then have had an option available to them.
Return at some time back down the ridge or drop down the Coulior, return along this
known climbable route to Camp VI. This would eliminate the need to go back down over
the Second Step. The choice to drop to the lower line for return could have been made days
earlier or once they got up the Second Step and realized the difficulty presented in going
down it. It doesn't matter. The Coulior is the connection from the ridge line, I
think just above the Third Step, to the Somervell and Norton traverse line. I do not
see any other route that could have gotten him (them) off the ridge line, lower, and still
be found that far west and in reasonably good state of condition.
A.) [Jochen] The general assumption
in the debate Mallory route vs. Norton's Traverse has been that there is no possibility to
reach the ridge from Norton's traverse beyond the Second Step unless one reaches the
Subsidiary Couloir leading out of the Great Couloir. The exit of this couloir is on the
opposite side of the summit snowfield from the Third Step. No-one has ever done this
traverse (a climber got lost in the vicinity on the way down from the summit in 1994 and
died of exhaustion before he could reach the North-east Ridge above the Second Step). Only
Wager & Wyn Harris attempted to reach the ridge from a point SW of the Second Step,
and failed. Personally, I doubt that Mallory & Irvine - if they had made it to above
the Second Step or on to the summit - would have descended by a route the upper part of
which was completely unknown (all the way down from the summit to the awkward traverse
between the Great and Subsidiary Couloirs). However, Frank Smythe suggested in 1937 that
they might have angled down from below the FIRST STEP by way of Norton's traverse in order
to avoid the numerous gullies and ledges encountered in their approach to the ridge crest.
Dave Hahn once said that this variation did not look like an obvious choice to him, but
nevertheless it could provide an answer to the questions you outline. If you believe
Odell, then M & I must have followed the ridge and personally I think they are likely
to have stuck to their route of ascent on the way down. Once below the difficult part,
i.e. below the First Step, things might have looked different, especially in near darkness
- but the issue is not easy to resolve.
Q.) Maybe some oxygen bottles and
possibly their oxygen carrying packs will some day be found near the base of the summit
pyramid. They did not believe that oxygen was of any value when going down. Is
this an open area that climbers would be taking different routes through? Could
Mallory's mind set on keeping to the ridge influence the way they would come into this
area verses today's climbing route (s)?
Did they go to the top? I
don't know. Irvine doesn't appear to have an ice ax and the rest of the way is
mainly on snow and ice. I don't know where George's ax is either. The missing
picture of Ruth Mallory, five unaccounted for oxygen bottles, two backpacks to carry them,
a camera that I seriously doubt will be found on Irvine's body do to ... well, I don't
want to get into that here, all on a mountain that is moving at nearly one inch per year
A.) [Jochen] " I don't think
that the plateau above the Second Step is as open an area as to consider different routes.
Perhaps Mallory's intention to stick to the crest played a role in climbing the First and,
even more important, the Third Step (Odell's sighting reads like an account of ascending
the Third Step along the crest, although it as been bypassed as well). There have been
discussions going on that Irvine's ax was discarded or lost on the way DOWN (perhaps to
have his hands free for descending the cliffs of the Yellow Band, knowing that any snowy
part of the route was now behind them). Mallory's ax could easily have been lost in the
accident. Five unaccounted for oxygen bottles? There is sufficient reason to believe that
the five on the Stella letter envelope, which you probably meant, were selected by Mallory
at the Camp III dump and brought up by porters on June 5. The five bottles are likely to
have been part of the six bottles listed on the equipment list found on Mallory's body, as
other bottles were already on the Col at the time. The absence of any backpacks and the
single part that's ever been found of the oxygen apparatus tucked away in one of Mallory's
pocket - strong indications that they had used up all their oxygen before the time of the
accident (7.5 h if they had used two bottles each, 11 h if they had used three).
Q.) After reading "High"
about the 1982 Northeast Ridge expedition on Everest, I was wondering if any later
expeditions found any sign of Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker, and what might have gone
wrong for them. Paul
A.) [Jochen] Read my paper,
"Where are you know, Pete and Joe?, on this website for what is known so far. I am
currently trying to tie up a few remaining loose ends, though.
The Book
Ghosts of Everest;
The Search for Mallory & Irvine by Jochen Hemmleb, Eric Simonson, Larry
Johnson
Hardcover - 208 pages
(October 1999) The Mountaineers Books; Price reduced !
The papers:
Jochen
Hemmleb's Research Papers
- More Answers from Jochen later this
week.
- Also on Mallory & Irvine:
Questions from the Staff at EverestNews.com (our turn) to Graham, Jochen, and/or Eric [and
any others] or EverestNews.com many readers to answer !
Many of the behind the scenes
questions.
For Example: Let's suppose the
camera is found. Does it not belong to the family ? And is the film not copyrighted ?? Can
anyone else publish the film ?
Maybe we can go in-depth on
these Questions and others.
Daily News: 2/14/2000 Report
- Everest Spring 2000 Expedition South
Side:
Byron Smith http://cbc.ca/news/indepth/everest2000/
The 39-year-old who was born in
Winnipeg, Manitoba plans his second attempt on Everest beginning in March 2000. His site
has been updated with the planned Educational Program. Also Trivia Game and Crossword !
His Expedition Everest 2000 has
contracted Science Alberta Foundation to
develop a multidisciplinary education program for Canadian students. Students from
Kindergarten to Grade 12 will participate in a virtual field trip to the "Top of the
World." Teachers will appreciate the easy access to relevant, prepackaged lesson
plans and activities. Students will enjoy the innovative, hands-on format of the Everest
2000 activities. Each group of lessons will include geography, science, mathematics,
language arts, and physical education activities. This education program appears to be one
of the best ever offered.
Check Byron out ! http://cbc.ca/news/indepth/everest2000/
- Check out the home page www.everestnews.com for many of the Everest 2000
expedition links and information.
Daily News: 2/12/2000 Report
- Everest Spring 2000 Expedition South
Side:
Spanish Everest 2000 www.lacenet.org You will need to Join (in upper left
hand corner)
A South Side Expedition with many
experienced climbers including expeditions to Manaslu (1991), Makalu
(1976), Everest (1983 and 1985), Lothse (1980), and the expedition
Doctor, Pep Aced who has been participated in eight expeditions Kanchenjunga
(1978), Annapurna IV (1979), Disthgil Sar (1982), Saipal (1985), Makalu (1988 and 1990),
K2 (1995). The Spanish were very successful in 95 on K2 as you can see on our K2 Summits
page sumk2.htm.
The Cooperative
Telematic Project, 'From Montserrat to Mount Everest', consists in the educational
accompaniment, through a virtual expedition, of the real mountaineering team that will try
to climb to the top of Mount Everest in May 2000, sponsored mainly by the Caixa de Manresa
and La Vanguardia.
Using the
Internet, we will propose different activities in order to bring everyone closer to this
expedition and to show its main characteristics, how it is planned, and the challenge it
presents for its members. We'll also consider the Himalayan region, its people, their way
of life, etc.
"Project
LaceNet" was born two years ago, with the goal of introducing the Central Catalonian
educational centers to the Internet. In the first edition, we carried out the project
"Discover the Bages County", and in the second, we offered a "Virtual trip
to Antarctica", in which Argentinian schools participated. In the current school year
(99-00), we are presenting "From Montserrat to Mount Everest". This is a project
addressed to the Bages County, Spain and the international public. The project is
sponsored by the Fundaciσ caixaManresa and has the support of European SchoolNet and
I*EARN-Pangea.
This expedition has many plans.
Please check out their many pages. Make sure you find the Activities page. Many
educational activities for students. Activities will be available on the project website
from January 1, 2000 until the middle of the following June. As for educational centers,
teachers will be able to define the length and rhythm of their classes' participation and
individual participation. For everyone there will be some activities that continue for the
life of the project and others that have a limited time frame.
EverestNews.com plans to work
closely with this expedition along with many others to bring You news from Everest.
Daily News: 2/11/2000 Report
- Another Everest Spring 2000
Expedition (There are many this year...):
Retena Expedition Odyssey Everest
2000
Six Spanish climbers, will try to
be first Expedition to reach the summit of Everest in 2000. Inaki Ochoa, Jose Mari Onate
Perez, Koldo Aldaz, Carlos Pauner, Mikel Zabalza and Antonio Akerreta will be part of a
National Geographic team. The expedition will not use oxygen and climb from the North
Side.
This
is an experienced team with climbers having 8000 meter experience.
In
1993, the first climbers to reach the Summit of Everest were Ngati Sherpa and Heo Young Ho
via the North Ridge descending down the South East ridge.
Some
of other climbers who reached the Summit in 1993 included:
Pasang
Lhamu (who dies on the way down), Alex Lowe, Mike Groom (without oxygen), Jan Arnold,
Oscar Cadiach (without oxygen), Valdimir Bashkirov (without oxygen), Eric Gramond (without
oxygen), Hubert Giot (without oxygen), Ginette Harrison, Gary
Pfisterer, Graham Hoyland, Jon Tinker, and many others.
The
Mountaineering
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