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Updates are below...
- K2 1999:
Waldemar
Niclevicz is the first Brazilian to climb
Everest, Vinson (Antarctica's highest mountain),
Elbrus (Europe's highest mountain) and Carstensz.
He is also the first South-American to climb The Seven
Summits. Waldemar has confirmed his K2
expedition for 1999. Waldemar will now acclimatize
in Bolivia from May 11th to 20th, then he will
head to Italy. On May 30th he will be leaving for
Islamabad to resolve the bureaucratic issues. Then
he'll go to Skardu and plans to start
trekking on June 4th. He will be accompanied by
climbers Abele Blanc (Italy) and Pepe Garcez
(Spain). They will try to climb Hidden Peak
and Gasherbrum II before K2. Their goal
is to arrive at K2 base camp around 10th or 15th
of July. Their permission goes until August 31st.
- Waldemar, along with
his friend guta nascimento (who will be at K2 base
camp during part of the climb), will be sending
Everest News reports from K2 in 1999 !
Update 5/24/99:
- Dear friends who
follow EverestNews.com
Get ready! From Jun
1st on Everest News will transmit "K2
on-line", digital photos and information sent
daily via satellite from Karakorum. You will
follow our expedition step by step, formed
by the Italian Abele Blanc, the Spaniard Pepe
Garces and I, the Brazilian Waldemar Niclevicz.
Firstly, we are going to face Gasherbrum and
Hidden Peak and then, K2. It won't be easy to
climb those three mountains, that's why I count on
your cheering!
Before starting my
trip, I spent three days in Bolivia. The weather
was terrific and I could climb three
beautiful mountains: Tarija (5,060m), Pequeno
Alpamayo (5,370m) and Condoriri (5,648m). Those
mountains are located near La Paz, on
the called Cordillera Real in Bolivian Andes. It
was a pity I couldn't stay longer, but I believe
that those few days have been enough
to alert my organism that I'll reach higher
altitudes.
And now, my friends,
I've already got my suitcases ready ( I mean,
backpacks) to K2! I 'm starting my long trip on
May 23rd, leaving Brazil to Italy
where I'll meet Abele Blanc. Together we're going
to do the last shopping and on May
30th we'll leave to Islamabad, the capital of
Pakistan. We'll meet Pepe Garces there.
Waldemar Niclevicz
Attention: From
Jun 1st on "K2 on-line" will
start, with digital photos and daily information,
sent via satellite directly from Pakistan.
Project K2 is
sponsored by O BOTICΑRIO, IRIDIUM AND MATTE LEΓO.
Introduction:
- VIRTUAL CLIMB TO THE
DEATH MOUNTAIN
From today (Jun 1st)
on, the Brazilian alpinist Waldemar Niclevicz (33
years old) starts sending all details of the
expedition to K2, via satellite from Pakistan. -
The second highest mountain in the world and the
most dangerous one.
This is the second
time that Niclevicz faces the death mountain. In
August 1998, 571 meters far from the summit,
the expedition was over due to bad weather. With
100 km/hour winds and snow up to the waist,
Niclevicz decided to end the climb "I tried 8
times to get the summit, going on would be
imprudent, the only wise decision in that moment
was to come back home alive in order to be able to
accomplish a new attempt this year." says the
alpinist.
During the
expedition to K2 in 1998, Waldemar Niclevicz's
site received about 120 thousand accesses, the
estimation for this year is up to 300
thousand. The site is shown in Portuguese and
English, 75% are from Brazil and 25% abroad. One
of the reasons that the site is so visited is that
Everest News - the most visited site about
alpinism in the world - having 50 thousand
accesses daily, also divulges Waldemar
Niclevicz's site.
STARTING TRAINING
AND ACCLIMATIZATION IN PAKISTAN
Before
facing K2, Niclevicz will climb other mountains
over 8000 meters as a training - Gasherbrum 8,035m
and Hidden Peak 8,068 meters; the 14th and 11th
highest mountains in the world respectively,
placed in Karakorum, the same cordillera of K2
SCHEDULE
Today Jun 1st,
Niclevicz will buy food in Islamabad, the capital
of Pakistan. In order to help the expedition, two
cooks were hired. In Islamabad (city placed in the
North of Pakistan) 150 porters will be selected to
take 10-ton equipment and food to the
camping. On Thursday, Jun 3rd, Waldemar Niclevicz
and his companions will start a
100-kilometre walk as far as Gasherbrum
base. Depending on the weather this walk can take
them from 7 to 10 days.
The companies O
BOTICΑRIO, NUTRIMENTAL, MATTE LEΓO AND IRIDIUM
sponsor and support Waldemar Niclevicz, in
Project K2 sequence.
Update 6/1/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Islamabad -
Jun 1st 1999 - 10th day of the expedition
Dear friends,
Today starts K2 on line,
with direct transmission, via satellite, one of the
biggest adventures on Earth: climbing the most
difficult and dangerous mountain in the world, K2
(8,611m). Our challenge will be greater because we
intend to climb two other mountains over 8 thousand
meters of altitude before, Gasherbrum (8,035 m) and
Hidden peak (8,068 m).
You can follow each step
of our expedition by updating, with digital photos and
information sent via satellite. Information about
other expeditions will also be available here, as well
about the climb of other great mountains here in
Karakorum. This time will be very hectic in the North
of Pakistan, there are about seven expeditions which
will face K2, 9 to Broad Peak (8,047 m), 9 to
Gasherbrum, 4 to Hidden Peak and 5 to Nanga Parbat
(8,125 m).
Today is the tenth day
traveling; after leaving Brazil I have been in Italy
buying some equipment. Fortunately we're already in
Islamabad and I admit I was a little afraid of not
being able to enter Pakistan, due to the last
conflicts with India, on Kashmir territory. We
hope these two countries can find a peaceful solution,
that all of them do their best to avoid a tragedy
between Moslems and Hindus, as it has been happening
in Yugoslavia between Serbs and Kurds.
Abele
Blanc and I left Aosta (north of Italy) at 4
am, towards Milan Airport. After traveling all
night long and for almost two days, with
long stops in Rome, Dubai and Lahore (the main
cultural city of Pakistan). We arrived very tired in
Islamabad yesterday, where we got in touch with our
agent, Ashraf Aman, to start filling the diplomatic
requirements. We went to migration today in order to
get a permission to travel in the North of Pakistan in
the next three months and also we were introduced to
Captain Shoukat Naem Khan, our officer who will follow
our expedition, so that we must respect several
requirements imposed by the Government.
I'm very glad by our
expedition. It has started and our team is joined at
last. We are a skilled and enthusiastic team. Abele
Blanc (Italian, with 7 of 8 thousand meters, including
Everest), Pepe Garces (Spaniard, with 3 of 8,000
meters, including Everest), Christian Kuntner
(Italian, with 7 of 8,000 m, including Everest and
K2), Andrew Lock (Australian, with 4 of 8,000m
including K2) and I, Waldemar Niclevicz (Brazilian,
with 3 of 8,000 m and the Seven Summits of the
World, including Everest). Christian and Andrew will
go along just to Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak.
You can recognize all
our team on the photo today . On the first row captain
Khan, I and Abele. On the second row Pepe, Andrew and
Christian. For photos see below.
Update 6/3/99:
K2 ON-LINE WALDEMAR
NICLEVICZ VIA SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan, Islamabad
Jun 3rd 1999.
Fortunately everything
has been solved in Islamabad and we can leave towards
Karakorum. We're going to do 700 km in two days from
Skardu, the last big city which will be found
before starting our approximation walk, to Gasherbrum
base.
Today we're going to
North of Pakistan by Karakorum highway, where we're
going to spend a night in Chilas. We're probably
getting there very late, so I'm taking this time to
send this message in the morning, avoiding leaving K2
on line without information. Unfortunately it was
impossible to do this part of the trip by plane,
because some flights have been cancelled
last days, and there are too many passengers to
Skardu. Traveling by plane avoids dangerous roads,
that go along Ingo River, one of the most important in
Asia.
I promise a photo of our
trip tomorrow, and I hope I can send it from Skardu,
"Insha Ala" as they say here ,
"God willing everything succeeds"
Update 6/4/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Chilas/Skardu
- Jun 4th 1999 - 13th day of the expedition
The trip to here was
terrific. More than 700 km by Karakorum Highway, a
pavement road, but full of holes, and no signaling at
all. Besides, of course, being hung on a
canyon formed by Indo River. The danger was big by
drivers careless, who drove in high speed and
overstepped in forbidden places. What called our
attention was the great quantity of soldiers that have
being carried, probably to Kashmir region, that's
about 200 km from here. We've seen many buses full of
soldiers.
Yesterday we spent the
night in Chilas, where we arrived at 11:00 pm. It was
funny: one hour before we were obliged to stop in a
military barrier, where there were a dozen cars. When
we asked about what was going on we were warned by a
soldier that there could be some assaults by the road
and if we went on, it would be our problem. They told
us that there have been assaults almost every
nights (big stones are thrown on the road and when the
car stops it's assaulted). We accepted the challenge,
but we were very alert in order to avoid any surprise.
Today we left Chilas at
6:00 am, to get Skardu just after midday. Our
intention was to finish the preparation, mainly
buy some fresh food (potatoes, rice, fruit,
vegetables, etc....) hire porters so that
we could go to Askole tomorrow. But, today is
Friday and every Friday afternoon Moslems
don't work here in Pakistan. We need to wait
here more one day, then we can leave towards mountains
definitively. I leave you a photo of Karakorum
Highway, where there are some typical multicolored
trucks here in Pakistan. This region crosses the
Northeast region of Pakistan and Kashgar in China. In
a total 1.200 km took 30 years to be finished. At the
back Nanga Parbat is outstanding, with 8,126 m of
altitude.
Photo
6/4/98
Update 6/5/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Skardu 2,300
m Jun 5th 1999 - 14th day of the
expedition
I've tried and tried but
it was impossible to leave Skardu. Today nobody works
here, it's a holiday. I've heard many ceremonies will
happen on the city streets. Then, we took advantage,
having some difficulties due to the holiday, to finish
hiring our porters and buy the last food. Soon at
night we want to leave our jeeps carried with our
luggage, ready to initiate our trip because we intend
to go to Askole tomorrow early morning.
Update 6/6/99:
Pakistan - Skardu/Askole
3,050 m/ Korophon 3,150 m - Jun 6th 1999 - 15th day of
the expedition
We decided to have a
long day today, trying to recover the day we lost in
Skardu. So, I'm sending this message beforehand
because I don't know if we are really going to arrive
to Korophon. We're going to leave at 6:00 am, along of
140 km dangerous dirt road, which will take us to
Askole, where our approximation walk to Gasherbrum
base-camp will start.
It was in that road that
an accident happened with one of our jeeps last year,
when one of them went to the bottom of Braldu River
and two porters died.
Our intention is to
begin the walk today and camp in Korophon, where we
should arrive late afternoon. I apologize to
send this message beforehand, but during the
approximation walk I'll have some difficulty to update
K2 on-line. We are setting camp every day, moving all
day long and arriving in the camps tired. We're going
to take a time when we arrive at base-camp.
Update 6/7/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Korophon 3,150 m /Bardimal 3,250 m, Jun 7th
1999- 16th day of the expedition
Yesterday was very long,
but worthwhile. We left Skardu at 5:00 am with 12
jeeps, and soon we enter Shigar River Valley. It took
us 6 hours and half, 140 km, by a frightening road,
mainly when we went along Braldu River, hung on
a abysm which was more than 50 m
high. The landscape was getting wilder and more
beautiful. Then, we arrived in Askole, the last
village in the region, having a little more than
a hundred dwellers, where the precarious road
finished.
In Askole we have
divided our 2,500 kg of equipment and food among 105
porters, each one taking an average of 25 kg. 16
porters carry just flour ( so that all porters can get
its own bread - chapati - every day), others 16 take
kerosene (necessary for cooking), 2 porters just
take sugar, 8 of them take vegetables, 2 just eggs, 1
carry the kitchen facilities, 24 take Brazilian and
Italian food, 2 carry tents, 2 take our
liaison officer's equipment, 32 take alpinism
equipment and our clothes.
We wished to get Paiju
today, but it was not possible, because the
rivers waters which we had to cross were very strong,
so our walking got 3 hours longer . Then we just got
Bardimal, at 3,250 m. It's unbelievable, but what most
disturb us was the warmth, worse, because we are in a
very arid region, very hard to get potable water.
In a total, we are going
to walk 105 km from Askole (2,900m) to Gasherbrum base
camp( 5,200 m) in about 8 days.
I leave you a photo of
Dumidormo River, where appear the only 4 porters who
had courage enough to face the strong stream. All of
them were taken by the water strength for
more than 15 m, but they have arrived safe on the
other bank.
Photo
6/7/98
Update 6/8/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Bardimal 3,250 m / Paiju 3,370 m - Jun 8th
1999 - 17th day of the expedition
We arrived in one of the
most important places of the approximation walk today.
We're in Paiju, 3,370 m with other three expeditions:
a Chilean one that goes to Broad Peak (8,047 m), and
two Koreans (one goes to Gasherbrum and other to
Hidden Peak). Paiju is a true oasis in the middle of
these arid mountains , a wood with a crystalline
water source ( till here everything seems perfect).
There must be about 600 people here; just the Koreans
are 26 and 300 porters. The expeditions usually stay
here two nights, because they need one day for the
porters to make bread (chapati) Well, the
trouble here is that there are too many people in a
very small place, there are feces everywhere, people
speaking aloud all the time, it's a complete mess.
Today we left Bardimal
at 6:30 am, along of Biaho Kungma River. The day was
terrific, blue sky, no clouds at all and we could see
K2 very far, surpassing all other
mountains, with a very impressive beauty. All
environment will become more magnificent from now on,
we are going to pass through many famous and beautiful
mountains in the world.
Will you please excuse
me for not answering the e-mails, but I'll
just recharge my notebook battery when I arrive
at base camp. I leave you a photo where there
are two porters at the bank of Biaho Lungma River.
Photo
6/8/98
Update 6/9/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan, Paiju
3,370 m / Urdukas 4,010 m, Jun 9th 1999 - 18th day of
the expedition
Unfortunately my
notebook battery is over, so I can't send neither
messages or digital photos. I'm leaving little
messages by Iridium phone and I must arrive at base
camp in three days. Then I'll be able to get my solar
energy equipment, have the batteries charging
and update K2 online normally.
Will you excuse me, but
it's not possible batteries charging during the day,
because we're walking all day long. The weather
continues great and the mountains marvelous.
Project K2 is sponsored
by O BOTICΑRIO, IRIDIUM,
NUTRIMENTAL and MATTE LEΓO.
Update 6/10/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan, Urdukas 4010 m / Gore 4345 m Jun 10th
1999 - 19th day of the expedition
The weather has changed
drastically. In the morning there was a strong mist
and it has snowed all day long. We arrived in Gore
with no problems but we have no idea how the way will
be. The temperature was 30 degrees centigrade
and fell to 5 degrees centigrade. It
happened because we are walking on Baltoro Glacier. I
keep leaving little messages by Iridium Phone and from
two days on (when we are likely to arrive at
Gasherbrum base-camp) I'll set my solar energy
equipment and charge my notebook battery so I'll
update K2 online as usual. I'll send news and photos
from Gasherbrum base-camp.
Update 6/11/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan, Gore 4345 m /
Concσrdia 4720 m, 20th day of the expedition
Last night there was a
strong storm on our camp. It snowed more than 20 cm.
The wind stopped around 10:00 am and we decided to go
back to our walking. After midday the snowed
kept falling uninterruptedly. We couldn't find
the steps on the path so we had to look for them
sinking in the snow. We hope this snow diminishes so
that we can arrive at Gasherbrum base-camp tomorrow.
I'm sending this message by Iridium phone and I hope
to be able to operate K2 online as usual tomorrow with
all the communication equipment charged, sending
photos as well.
Update 6/12/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan, Concσrdia
4720 m/ Gasherbrum base-camp 5220m, Jun 12th 1999,
21st day of the expedition
It's a pleasure to
inform you that today we arrived at Gasherbrum
base-camp. After 105-km walking we are at the base of
the first two mountains that we are going to face this
year: Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak
There was a violent
storm yesterday so it was hard to open a path on
a soft snow today from Concσrdia to here. As our
expedition is the first one this year, the path
was completely hidden by snow. We decided to set our
camp 100 higher than the usual place, trying to avoid
other expedition's noises, that must arrive in
the next weeks.
I leave you a photo of
our walking, where there are some courageous balti
porters facing the snow to arrive at base-camp. Note
the photos should be posted soon.)
Update 6/13/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan -
Gasherbrum base-camp 5220 m, 22nd day of the
expedition
Today is a day off here,
or better, day to set tents, bathrooms, kitchen. We're
likely to be here for two or three days ending our
base-camp before start climbing.
I must explain one
thing: we are at "Gasherbrum" base-camp.
Gasherbrum is a massif with 5 imposing peaks, two of
them higher than 8 thousand meters. The highest is
Gasherbrum I, with 8,068m , also called Hidden Peak;
the second one is Gasherbrum II with 8,035 m. We are
trying to climb both, but to avoid misunderstanding
I'll always call Gasherbrum I - Hidden Peak and
Gasherbrum II - Gasherbrum.
As there was technical
problems in my communication equipment I take
advantage to send you photos of our approximation
walk, so that everybody can have an idea about the
beauty around us. On the photo there are two
balti porters on Baltoro Glacial and at the back the
famous Trango Towers.
Photo
6/14/98
Update 6/14/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Jun
14th Starting climbing up to 5,650 m and back to
base-camp 23rd day of the expedition
Since the weather has
been better, we started with immense satisfaction to
climb Gasherbrums. We went to 5,650 m, open a path on
the South Gasherbrum Glacier. It wasn't easy to
get there, we suffered from warmth of the sun and got
very tired trying to find a safe path among blocks of
ice and deep cracks, what we call serac or ice fall.
Abele, Pepe, Christian and I (Andrew stayed at base
having some rest) went joint by the rope all the time,
what saved us of many falls in deep cracks. In fact we
faced true labyrinth, several times we were in a blind
alley or in front of a insurmountable crack
(some of them 5m wide and 30m deep). We marked our
path with some red flags, what will help in our next
lunge. It was very difficult because we were the first
ones to face the South Gasherbrum Glacial this year.
We went half way to camp
1. In this camp, that must be placed at 6,100 m of
altitude we'll do our attacks to both Gasherbrum and
Hidden Peak. We expect to end to
climb these two mountains in 40 days, and then go on
to K2.
Falling in the cracks
was practically unavoidable. The one who was ahead
suffered more, both by the effort to squash the soft
snow and by the frighten to see the legs loosen
in an abysm very deep. (We sank in the crack up to the
waist, because we were always alert in order to stop
the fellow's fall with the rope. So, each 30 minutes
one of us went to the point of the rope. My friend
Abele Blanc was the most enthusiastic by starting the
climb, so I leave you a photo where he appears among
the ice blocks of the ice fall.
Photo
6/14/98
Update 6/15/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan
Camp-base 5,220m, 24th day of the expedition
The weather has been
wonderful, the sky was blue all day long. It was a
pity we weren't climbing, so we took advantage to have
a rest, after our lunge yesterday. We are preparing to
climb again tomorrow morning, I hope the weather keeps
good.
We aren't the only
expedition here. Today our base-camp was visited by
Oscar Cadiach (chief of a Spanish expedition) and
San Bae (chief of a Korean expedition). Two other
Korean expeditions have arrived, one of them will face
Hidden Peak, the others will face Gasherbrum. There
are other 6 expeditions that must arrive in the next
days.
There is also a Korean
expedition trying to climb Gasherbrum IV. At K2 there
is already two expeditions at base-camp , one of
them is Japanese whose chief is Takuo Fujiwara
and other Korean whose chief is Hyueng Chil Lim.
I leave you a photo of
our base-camp , which is at 5,200m
of altitude, at the joint of Gasherbrum South Glacier
with Duca Degli Abruzzi Glacier. The sharp
mountain at the back is Hidden Peak
Photo
Update 6/16/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Base-camp
5,220 m / Camp 1 6,100 m, Jun 16th 25th day of
the expedition
We woke up at 2:00 am
today and at 3:00 we were facing the
delicate Gasherbrum Glacial for the second time.
It was very cold, 11 degrees centigrade below zero
what made us walk quickly and at 6:30 am we
arrived at the equipment warehouse that we had made
before. We went on enthusiastic opening path in a hard
snow up to a big amphitheater which left us in
front of Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak. In that place we
set our Camp 2 at 6,100 m of altitude. Camp 1 is an
enormous amphitheater.
I have been amazed by
the beauty of Gasherbrum massif. There are 7 summits
in a remarkable beauty.
I'm seeing all of them now, thanks to the nice
weather. There is no cloud in the sky, which is
completely blue. We are all very excited. Our main
difficulty is to find a path in the labyrinth
through the cracks. We don't go far from the tents
avoiding falling in one of these cracks. Later we went
out for recognizing a way to Gasherbrum - Camp 2. We
found soft snow where we sank up to the knees. We
arrived around 6,400m of altitude, then we returned to
our base-camp for some sleep.
I'm with Iridium phone
but not with the notebook, so I leave a photo of
our last attempt where Abele Blanc and Pepe
Garces appear in the beginning of the most complicate
part, on the way to camp 1. The summit in the centre
is Gasherbrum.
Photo
6/16/98
Update 6/17/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Camp 1
5,950 m / base-camp 5,220m, 26th day of the expedition
We went from camp
1 to base-camp. And we regretted for not having
started to descend before 6:00 am, because we arrived
at 10:00, and it was very hot. The snow has
started melting and formed true rivers on the
ice near base-camp. We hope this nice weather goes on,
because we had much snow in the beginning of
Gasherbrum, where we did a recognition yesterday. It's
necessary to wait some days so that the wind and sun
take some snow away and the climb becomes safer
and less tiring.
For a while we are very
satisfied, camp 1 is ready and in the our next lunge
we expect to set camp 2. The other expeditions that
are here today (Koreans and Spanish) started
moving, but they have been very slow for a while
because they aren't acclimatized yet. We wished
to set camp 2 at once, as the weather has been nice,
but it's necessary to respect our body and let it
adapt step by step to the rarefied air, which is our
main aim in climbing Gasherbrum and Hidden Peak: We
want to get K2 very well acclimatized and with plenty
of energy.
I leave you a photo of
our camp 1, in the back appears the magnificent
Gasherbrum, over the left tent a crest
takes to the superior pyramid. Our climb route
is by that crest, when we get the rock pyramid
we cross to the right through the rock base, so we
follow by the right crest to the summit . Insha Ala !
Photo
Update 6/18/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - base-camp
5,220m, 27th day of the expedition
It was a deserved
day-off at base-camp today .We took advantage to
take shower, wash clothes and prepare the
equipment for our next lunge.
Having a bath at 5,000 m
of altitude isn't so strange since you really want it.
We have our own bathroom, a small tent were we
improvised a water-closet, in order to avoid spread
feces all around. And we have other tent at the same
size, where we hang those camping showers, having some
heated water, of course. It's obvious that we need to
wait for a hot day, avoiding the risk of getting
a cold.
Our main problem today,
was to prepare our lunge to Gasherbrum, where we
intend to set camp 2.We have separated ropes, tents,
fuel (gas) and food. We are worried about the weather,
that is likely to change. The day finished completely
cloudy and the temperature increased (at night, which
had been usually -11 C and it was only -5)
I leave you a photo of
our base-camp today morning, when the weather
was good. In the back Hidden Peak appears.
Photo
Update 6/19/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Base-camp
5,220 m / Camp 1 5,950 m, 28th day of the expedition
We woke up at 2:00 am
again. At 3:00 we were in the darkness with our front
torches (which go attached to the head). We didn't
like the temperature, around -5 degrees centigrade, it
should be much colder (the increase in the temperature
means bad weather). But , we went on to camp 1, much
quicker, because the path is well marked by our steps
on the snow, and the signaling flags that we
left in our last lunge. We arrived in our tents at
9:00 am.
We rested for a while
and went to the beginning of our climb route, where we
left ropes, stakes and other equipment. Now we
are going to rest, because we intend to start
the works to open a path up to 6,500 m of Gasherbrum
very early, where we intend to set camp 2. The weather
keeps unstable, but it doesn't disturb us.
I leave you a photo of
our camp 1, where it's possible to realize the
difficulties through the cracks that exist in the
Glacial.
Photo
Update 6/20/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan - Camp 1 5,950
m / Camp 2, 2,650 m, 29th day of the expedition
We're going to work hard
today, so I send this message beforehand. We're going
to wake up at 3:00 am to start our climb to Gasherbrum
by 4:00 am , when the sun rises. The snow
must be our great problem , maybe we sink up to the
waist. But, if everything succeeds, we expect to set
camp 2 around 6,500 m and spend the night in
that altitude, improving our acclimatization.
Let's cheer everything
succeeds, because to set camp 2 means our big step
towards the summit. We intend to set one more camp
(number 3) and go to final attack in the next lunge(
it's usual to set a fourth camp). I leave you a photo
of Gasherbrum, seen from camp 1. We are going to
follow the crest in the centre of the photo that goes
to the left side.
Photo
Update 6/21/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM Pakistan- Base-camp 5,220 m, 30th
day of the expedition
Our approximation walk
to base-camp started wonderfully: We were
full of hopes and the weather was great. Each day we
were granted by a beautiful sun amidst an endless
blue sky. Suddenly, on the 4th walk-day,
some dark clouds appeared , the warmth was replaced by
an icy cold and some snowflakes started
falling. "That's just to remind us that we
are in Himalayans" said my friend Abele.
When we arrived at
base-camp, the weather got better. The clouds
disappeared completely and the ski was
bluer and endless. We were very hot on the glacial and
we were glad in going ahead. We set camp 1 in the
first 4 days and we dreamed enthusiastically in
setting camp 2, at 5,920 m. And the nature
reminded us once more that we were among the highest
mountains in the world, the Himalayans.
During the night the
snow started. On Sunday morning at 5:00 am,
without any option, we left the tents in Camp 1 and
started descending to base-camp. The last days'
footsteps had disappeared, the visibility was
around 100 m. Having much difficulty, we looked for
our path amidst the mist and the snowstorm that
didn't stop falling. We got base-camp at 9:00 am
and during all day long the snowflakes kept falling on
the mountains, breaking out big avalanches.
So, today we rested waiting for nice
weather, without forgetting we are in Himalayans.
My friend Pepe Garces
appears on the photo, during our descending to
base yesterday, looking for our path amidst the mist
and snowstorm among the ice blocks.
Photo
Update 6/22/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan -
Base-camp 5,220 m, 31st day of the expedition
Dear friends who follow
K2 on-line:
I left my
beloved country exactly a month ago, trying to
accomplish one of my greatest dreams, the climb of K2.
I miss my family and friends a lot, but fortunately,
the wish to execute each one of my aims is greater. It
is not easy being among these great mountains so long,
far from the tenderness and comfort of
whom we love so much. But maybe it is one of the best
ways to valorize the life and prove the human being's
capacity to overcome his owns limits. Of course,
my wish to return home is enormous, and it
makes me happy. However, these big mountains also
contribute for my happiness.
The snow has been falling
here, without stopping, since Sunday. It's
strange, the day is hot and the snow barely
accumulates because it melts as soon as it falls.
(Now, here in Pakistan at 3:31 pm - 8
hours later than in Brazil - 4 hours later GMT - it is
14 degrees Celsius. At night the
temperature was 9 below zero). Besides, the clouds are
low, sliding on the glaciers. So, we have no
choice, just wait for good weather.
There is already other expedition
here at the base-camp. It is a commercial expedition
led by an English man called David Hamilton. Yesterday
he organized a big meeting with all leaders of
the expeditions. In this moment, there are 6
expeditions here: 3 Koreans , 1 Spanish (commercial),
1 English (commercial) and our International. There
are still other expeditions that must arrive in
the next weeks. The objective of the meeting was to
find a common strategy so that all expeditions can be
benefited.
It was clear that the Koreans and
the commercial expeditions (with clients who pay a lot
and with many altitude porters) want to put more than
two thousand meters of ropes at Gasherbrum. We adopted
a position that left everyone a little disappointed. I
can explain everything tomorrow.
I leave you a photo of our
meeting, that happened at the English
expedition dining hall. I am on the left
of the picture, and after follows David Hamilton and
the Spanish couple: Nanni and Oscar Cardiach. The
Koreans were sat in front of us.
Photo
Update 6/23/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Pakistan -
base-camp 5,220 m, 32nd day of the expedition
The weather keeps
unstable. It snowed a lot last night. Today the
sunrise was wonderful, but it snowed again after 11:00
am. We have received the forecast from Spain, asked by
Barrabes, who we thank a lot. The weather keeps
unstable until Sunday the 27th and then the weather
may improve, with the full moon on the 28th.
Let me explain an
important
change in our strategy. Other expeditions
started arriving at base-camp, aiming to climb just
Gasherbrum. All of them had a lot of
expectations about our group, that was the first
one to arrive, has an outstanding technical level and
much disposition to work. So, we realized that, if we
didn't hurry up someone hardly would do
anything. Well, all of you know that besides
Gasherbrum, we want to climb Hidden Peak and K2. And
since so many people want to climb Gasherbrum, we
have decided to climb Hidden Peak first and let the
other expeditions climb Gasherbrum and do their
job too. Climbing Gasherbrum is much easier
than Hidden Peak (I remind you that camp 1 is the same
for both mountains). Our decision has caused
some displeasure in other expeditions, that were
waiting for us to open the path towards the summit.
The photo today couldn't
be other except Hidden Peak, the highest mountain of
Gasherbrum massif, also known as Gasherbrum I, with
8,068 m of altitude, the 11th highest mountain in the
world. The photo shows our camp 1 too.
Photo
Update 6/24/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Hidden Peak
Base 5,220m / camp 1 5,950m, 31st day of the
expedition
Pepe and I were tired of
being at base-camp so long then, we are going up to
camp 1, even the weather doesn't show signals to
get better. Our hope is that we can work at high
altitudes.
It's funny that in these
three days, no other expedition has dared to go to
camp 1, so we are going to find a path practically
invisible on the snow, that has been falling
regularly in the last days.
Pepe and I expected to
leave base at 3:00 am, we were awaken till 4:30 am. As
the snow continued falling and the visibility was
shorter, we returned to our sleeping bags. It's
incredible that at 8:00 am the sky was blue and
the sun was shining. Even getting
cloudy after lunch, we have decided to
leave towards camp 1 tonight. We want to depart at
8:00 pm, it's a strange hour apparently, but we
can't waste time. Then, Pepe and I go first. Abele,
Christian and Andrew must leave a little later, at
midnight. Our plan is to join the two groups at
sunrise at camp 1, and leave towards Gasherbrum.
There we intend to set camp 2,
at 6,500m. It won't be easy, there must be much snow
on the way. Don't miss the news tomorrow!!!
I leave you a photo
taken a week ago, of our base-camp, so that you can
have an idea where the two mountains that we are going
to face are located. Gasherbrum
appears sharp, on the left . Hidden Peak appears on
the right side of the photo.
Photo
Update 6/26/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Hidden Peak - camp 2,
6,500m / Base 5,220 m, 35th day of the expedition
Our camp 2 is the
beginning of "Japanese Corridor", a cut in
the magnificent Northwest wall of Hidden Peak. It's a
cut is this aisle, the technically the
most difficult part of all climb, around 200 meters,
very vertical. Unfortunately many people have lost
their lives in that part, principally when they were
descending or with bad weather. We woke up very early
today (at 4:00 am) to do a recognition is that
delicate part, but we think it's not need to put
fixed ropes.
We were amazed by the
good weather and a big wish to follow towards the
summit, but it's very important to respect our bodies.
Although we are all very well, we are aware
it's not the right time yet. So, we did a long
descending to base-camp for a deserved rest. We intend
to return to Hidden Peak within a few days to have the
final attack.
You can see some of our
tents at camp 2 in Hidden Peak at 6,500 m. In
the back appear Gasherbrum 5 and 6 (from the right to
the left). Abele Blanc and Pepe Garces are next to the
tent.
Photo
Update 6/27/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Dear friends who follow
K2 ,
It's a pleasure to send
you this message from base-camp, after three important
work days at high altitudes.
Our camp 2 is set at
6,500m. The hardest part of the climb, the
"Japanese Corridor", where we did a
recognition and found some good conditions. This
means that we are in good conditions to go the final
attack towards the summit of Hidden Peak.
With our strategy to stay in high altitudes as short
as possible, avoiding unnecessary worn
to our body.
We're going to rest at
base-camp, the weather is terrific. Our idea is
to return to camp 2, set a third camp at 7,200 m
of altitude and then go to 8,068 m of the highest of
the Gasherbrums - Hidden Peak. We hope to do our next
attack within the next days, let's cheer for good
weather.
The nice weather
is also moving other expeditions. Unfortunately those
who go to Gasherbrum aren't so lucky. There is much
snow, sometimes up to waist, becoming a very hard job.
A Korean displaced snow plate and went
down on an avalanche about 100m, and had just some
scratches.
Today is Sunday, it's a
shower day, it's time to call family and friends. I
leave you a photo where I appear in front
of my tent. Regards from Himalayans!
Photo
Update 6/28/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Hidden Peak -
Base 5,220 m / Camp 1, 5,950 m, 37th day of the
expedition
The weather
keeps magnificent. Blue sky and a very sunny day. So,
we began our climb again today, aiming to set our last
camp at 7,200 m and go to the final attack to the
8,068 m of Hidden Peak. We need nice weather for more
three days, let's cheer everything succeeds.
Pepe Garces and
I left the base at 5:00 pm to come to camp
1. Abele, Christian and Andrew are going to arrive
tomorrow morning , because they prefer to leave at
midnight and go direct to camp 2. As it is very hot
the danger of falling in a deep crack
has increased a lot, there are immense holes where
there hadn't been before. A new pleasure is the full
moon, which is granting us a
especial touch at nights. It's safer to climb at
night, because the moon light that
reflects on the glacier leaves the night as clear as
the day.
Update 6/29/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Hidden Peak -
Camp 1, 5,950 m / Camp 2, 6,500m, 38th day
of the expedition
Unfortunately
the weather has changed during the night. Our friends
who where at base-camp didn't come up. Even with the
strong wind and the cloudy sky. Pepe and I have
decided to go to camp 2. The idea might not be the
best, as the wind has kept blown and we were obliged
to be inside the tent all afternoon long. If the
weather gets better, we're going to try to fix the
ropes in the "Japanese Corridor". Otherwise,
we go down to base-camp.
It's a pity
that the weather has changed so quickly, because we
are very enthusiastic about ending the climb to Hidden
Peak.
I leave you a
photo where there is the descending of Gasherbrum. Our
path follows on the right, on the snow sloping.
Getting the superior part, it's need to follow to
right.
Photo
Update 6/30/99:
WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ VIA
SATELLITE BY IRIDIUM
Hidden Peak - Camp
2, 6,500m/ Camp 3, 7,200m, 39th day of the expedition
It was a tough
day today for Pepe Garces and I. We put the equipment
in the "Japanese Corridor". We decided to
take a look in details and we saw that the
"Japanese Corridor" wasn't easy. We
worked from 7:00 am to 3:00 pm fixing 600
m of ropes. ( three 200m-reels of 8 mm ).
The ropes were from the Korean expedition that are
going to climb Hidden Peak too. Just
one of them followed us to stretch the ropes, but
sometimes they rolled more. The weather is unstable,
but even though it was possible to work. The wind has
bothered us a little.
Our friends who
are at base-camp promise to come here. If the weather
gets better, we intend to do the final attack this
weekend.
You see our
camp 2, at 6,500m. The beginning of the "Japanese
Corridor" where our climb continues, it's the big
snow spot that appears in the back, between the two
tents.
Photo
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