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September 1998 Daily News

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for a list of all the Daily Reports plus many other stories. If you are new to the site you will want to visit the Site Index... along with the homepage... Please visit EverestNews.com Sponsor page !

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NEWSFLASH: 9/30/98 2:00 PM EST US

  • Special Report on the International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000

    Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu climb:

    Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu.

    Dispatch 8: 9/30/98

    Bob Sloezen reports from ABC that the summit was reached by Jethro Robinson, Borge Ousland, Heather Macdonald, and Alan Arnette on the 29th in very difficult conditions which included thigh deep snow. Alan and Heather did not actually cross the summit plateau, due to the conditions. Jethro and Borge plowed across the plateau and stood on the true summit.

    On the 30th, the second summit team of Bob Sloezen , Jason Dittmer, Bob LaRoche, and Tony Smucler, Ang Passang, and Lakpa Rita turned back below Camp 3 due to deep snow and avalanche conditions. 

    The other two team members, Mike Demartino and Henry Hamlin, had turned back from below Camp 2 due to fatigue (Mike) and dizziness, nausea, and blurry vision (Henry). 

    Bob reports that on the 27th he and Heather buried Alex Jaggi in a crevasse near Camp 2, an experience he describes as devastating.

    The team is now back at ABC, and is working on recovering loads form Camp 1 and 2 over the next couple days. The schedule is to return to BC by the 4th, and arrive Kathmandu by the 6th.

    I want to say that I am proud of Everyone on this team for hanging in there and giving the mountain a good shot in difficult conditions and with significant adversity. Congratulations and have a safe trip home!

    Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000 www.climbnet.com/img

Daily News: 9/30/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: The best information EverestNews.com has right now is that climbers attempted Everest from the South but were probably not successful due to the lack of information coming out. It is speculated that the climbers ran into bad weather (that Craig C. reported) and are staying at high camps hoping for a break in the weather. This is the best speculation we have. The Japanese on the South Side has not filed a report since the 21st ! Time is getting short in that there is only a few more weeks left in the normal climbing season. Let's all continue to hope for the best.
  • Autumn Everest 98: The  ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 (www.skiingeverest.com) has added technical "updates" to their site. They are not easy to find, you need to look under Dispatches: Technical Team. We think you will find these updates very interesting. If you can't find them e-mail us.
  • Cho Oyu: The following members of the International Cho-Oyu Expedition '98
    successfully climbed to the summit of Cho-Oyu on 24th September:

    Ms. Tuula Nousiainen Helena (Finish climber)
    Ms. Susan Erica (Australian climber)
    Mr. Naga Dorje Sherpa (Tuula's climbing Sherpa)
    Mr. Chhong Ringe Sherpa (Tuula's climbing Sherpa)
    Mr. Ngima Dorje Sherpa (Susan's climbing Sherpa)

    Tuula Nousiainen Helena has thus become the first Finnish Woman to climb
    the 8,000 m. peak.

    (c) The Himalayan Experience Cho-Oyu Expedition - Autumn '98 led by Russell Brice (New Zealander) made an unsuccessful attempt to the summit on 30th September but returned due to bad weather.

    (d) The President of Romanian Mountaineering Club, Mr. Constantin Lacatusu, successfully made it to the summit on 28th September.

    For a partial list of Expeditions and climbers who are on Cho Oyu this Autumn 98: See the Cho Oyu 2 page, For regular updates from the 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition see The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.

     

NEWSFLASH: 9/29/98 6:00 PM EST US

  • Autumn Everest 98: EverestNews.com continues to receive information that Summit attempts are (were) underway on the South Side as earlier reported (9/27/98). However, no Summits has been reported to EverestNews.com yet . This could be because of the limited number of climbers (teams) and communication equipment on the mountain or because the climbers turned around. We simply don't know at this time. However, we continue to hear that climbers are up high. Let's all hope for the best !!! News should could in the next 12-24 hours.
  • Listed below is the list of climbers on Everest this Autumn per your requests followed by the News Index !

Daily News: 9/29/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: The  ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 (www.skiingeverest.com) technical team has arrived in Base Camp and has remained in good health. They will send out a test broadcast tomorrow and during the following days they will send out three live shows per day !!! For the first time, everyone connected to the internet will be able to follow an Everest expedition live. Over 20 live shows will be sent from Everest during the first week of October. Download and install the Windows Media Player or Real Player NOW so you won't miss out on all the excitement! No other news received from Everest today so far !!!
  • EverestNews.com feature book is : Within Reach : My Everest Story ~ Usually ships in 24 hours: Mark Pfetzer, Jack Galvin / Hardcover / Published 1998. The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat,

Daily News: 9/28/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com is receiving dispatches from Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. The latest dispatch is posted below. For all the dispatches so far see  The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.

    Special Report on the International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000

    Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu climb:

    Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu.

    Dispatch 7: 9/28/98

    Bob Sloezen reports from ABC good and bad news. 

    The good news is that the IMG team is doing fine, with summit bids planned over the next several days.  All the climbers, with the exception of Mark Smith who is still sick,  are now moving up to Camp One, after several days of rest at ABC. 

    The bad news is that the two non-guided climbers who were on the IMG permit, but climbing separately, had a serious problem.  On September 25, Alex Jaggi (42,  Swiss) , Keitaro Mooroka (28, Japanese) summitted Cho Oyu along with their Sherpa Norbu (5x Everest).  They used oxygen above Camp 3, and were able to return to Camp 2 before dark, which suggests that they were moving strongly and doing fine.  Apparently everything was OK when they went to bed, in separate tents.  Jaggi was by himself in a tent, but when Mooroka tried to wake him in the morning, he was dead.  It is unclear what happened.  Speculation includes that he fell asleep while cooking in the tent and died of CO poisoning or perhaps had some acute medical problem during the night.  Bob Sloezen is now going up to Camp 2 ahead of the IMG team to bury Jaggi on the mountain, in accordance with Jaggi's Body Disposal Form (filled out by him before the climb).  Our sincere condolences to Jaggi's family, which lives in Switzerland.

    Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000 www.climbnet.com/img

  • Autumn Everest 98: The  ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com is reporting bad weather ! Other reports are good weather! This is Everest !
  • EverestNews.com feature book is : Within Reach : My Everest Story ~ Usually ships in 24 hours: Mark Pfetzer, Jack Galvin / Hardcover / Published 1998. 

Daily News: 9/27/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: We have an unconfirmed report of a planned summit attempt tonight ! Many climbers are still high on the mountain, the weather still reportedly good.
  • Autumn Everest 98: The technical team for The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com led by our friend John Sheridan Reed, are headed for Everest's North Side with video reports due in a few days.
  • The web site of the week is (per numerous requests for more information on her): Sandy Hill Pittman http://www.gsn.org/past/kidspeak/index.html
  • EverestNews.com feature book is : Within Reach : My Everest Story ~ Usually ships in 24 hours: Mark Pfetzer, Jack Galvin / Hardcover / Published 1998 Our Price: $11.89 ~ You Save: $5.10 (30%). The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat,

Daily News: 9/26/98 Report

Daily News: 9/25/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98 North Side: The  ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com is reporting that the all the climbers except Martini Sergio from the Italian team and Dawa Sherpa from the Spanish Team turned around because of unstable snow conditions. It is unclear at what spot they turned around.
  • Autumn Everest 98 South Side: Climbers are high on the mountain, and are therefore not sending reports. One could assume that the snow conditions might not stop the South side climbers given that excellent (Everest) weather conditions are being reported.
  • In case you miss it: The climbers on the South Side are:

    South Side:

    Japanese climbing from South West Face.

    Japanese Everest Team: Ken Noguchi's Team, Noriyuki Muraguchi (High Altitude Camera Man). Noriyuki Muraguchi will accompany Ken Noguchi to the summit. Base Camp Staff: Ms. Kuniko Miyashita Base Camp Supporter, Takeshi Shiba Base Camp Reporter, and Takeshi Kitagawa Cameraman. The High Altitude Sherpas (Asian-Trekking): Dawa Teshi Sherpa ( 6 times Everest summitter) will be H.A. Sirdar, Tamting Sherpa, Pasang Tshering Sherpa, Nawang Tenzi Sherpa, Krishna Bahadur Tamang, Pemba Sherpa (Cook), and Chimi Tshering Sherpa (Kitchen Boy).

    Spanish Everest Expedition: The team consists of : Juan Corro Tormo (Expedition Leader), Ricardo Villar Garcia, Javier Garcia, Ramiro Beltron Miravet, and Carlos Pitarch Francisco. High Altitude Sherpas: Pasang Temba Sherpa (H.A.Sirdar), Ang Kami Sherpa (High Altitude Cook), Nurbu Sherpa, Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Gyalzen Sherpa, Dorje Sherpa, and Lhakpa Tamang (Kitchen Boy). This Expedition is also supported by Asian-Trekking.

    Sherpa Team featuring Kaji Sherpa (33), who as we reported earlier, will attempt to break the speed record on climbing Everest this Autumn, will be assisted on his team by the following Sherpa climbers: Tashi Tshering Sherpa, Tashi Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa and Tshering Sherpa. We also understand the expedition name is : The Tuborg Speed Everest Expedition 98.

  • EverestNews.com feature book is : Within Reach : My Everest Story ~ Usually ships in 24 hours: Mark Pfetzer, Jack Galvin / Hardcover / Published 1998. The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page,  a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat,

Daily News: 9/24/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98 North Side: The Italians, Spanish, and French are believed to be going from Camp IV to Camp V today, and attempt the Summit on Friday !!! Craig Calonica as reported on The  ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com is not attempting the summit at this time.
  • In case you missed it: Below is the climbers on the North Side and the status information on who has left.

    North Side

    French Team - The Team consists of Jerome Ruby (Jerome left Everest and is in Kathmandu. He had suffered from severe altitude sickness.) Leader, Andre Rehm, Samuel Beauget, Panuru Sherpa High Altitude Sirdar, Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Ang Pasang Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Gyalzen Sherpa Cook, and Gombu Dorje Lama Kitchen Boy.

    ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998, American climber Craig Calonica, Lakpa Dorjee Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Dawa Tsiri High Altitude Sherpa, Maule Tamang High Altitude Sherpa, and Pinjo Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa.

    The Italian Team - consists of Martini Sergio Italian, Simone Moro Italian, Casanova Diego Italian, and Iman Singh Tamang High Altitude Sherpa/Cook .

    Spanish Team - The Team consists of Ms. Majesus Lagorey Spanish, Pasang Rinzee Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Kusang Dorjee, Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, and Dawa Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa.

    Japanese (Masa and his wife), has now left Everest after attempting the summit.

    All Sherpa/Support Teams by Asian-Trekking.

  • The solo effort by the Japanese climber (Masa) on the Hornbein direct route reaching 8,400 meters, if correct as reported, is a truly great effort. One friend of ours described it as "that is the best solo effort on the North Face since Messner!" . We would hope some time in the future to be able to bring you more information on this effort from our Japanese contacts who are climbing right now !

Daily News: 9/23/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: As reported yesterday, climbers on the North Side should be at Camp IV today, going to Camp V on the 24th, and attempt the Summit on 25th of   September. The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com expedition is updated. It appears Craig will not go with the others on the summit attempt. His video crew also has not arrived yet.
  • In case you missed it: EverestNews.com is receiving updates from Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. For all the updates so far see  The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.

Daily News: 9/22/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: Did we say little News ??? The leader of the French Wahimea Everest - Tibet - Expedition '98, Mr. Jerome Ruby, arrived in Kathmandu in the evening on 21st September. He had suffered from severe altitude sickness while climbing the mountain and, therefore, decided to return to Kathmandu.

    According to the information provided by Mr. Jerome Ruby:

    (a) Climbing via the Messner Coiler route, the Japanese arrived at 8,400 m on 14th or 15th of September (Jerome is not so sure of the exact date).  The team, then, abandoned their attempt and returned to Kathmandu.

    (b) The following members of the French Wahimea Everest - Tibet - Expedition '98 established Camp IV at 7,800 m on 16th September: Samuel Beauget  (French), Panuru Sherpa (High Altitude Sirdar, 3 times Everest Summitter), Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa (High Altitude Sherpa, 2 times Everest Summitter), Ang Pasang Sherpa        (High Altitude Sherpa, 1 time Everest Summitter)

    (c) The following members of the Italian Everest - Tibet - Expedition '98 established Camp IV at 7,500 m on 16th September: Martini Sergio (Italian) and Simone Moro      (Italian)

    (d) The following members of the Spanish Everest - Tibet - Expedition '98 established Camp IV at 7,500 m on 16th September:

    Ms. Majesus Lagorey        Spanish
    Pasang Rinzee Sherpa     High Altitude Sherpa
    Kusang Dorjee Sherpa      High Altitude Sherpa

    (e) The American Everest - Tibet - Expedition '98 went up to ABC and then returned to Base Camp.

    (f) The French, Italian and Spanish teams planned to establish Camp V at 8,300 m. and then return to ABC to prepare for their final attempt to the Summit.  Here is how they plan to make their summit attempt:

    ABC to North Col        22 September, 
    to Camp IV                   23 September
    to Camp V                    24 September
    final attempt to the Summit on 25 September

    (g) The weather is reported to be good with no strong wind in the area.  Source: Asian-Trekking, who is supporting all these North Side expedition except the Japanese Solo Expedition (which has now left). Asian-Trekking can be found on the 98 Autumn, 1999 Everest Expeditions Links Page.
  • Several has asked about Craig's colorful updates on  www.skiingeverest.com . Craig is known as a fun lovely character who likes to have fun, so just enjoy them ! However, it appears from the update above, he is not presently up to date on what is happening higher on the mountain. We know he has been ill and were wondering why some were reporting summit attempts were to occur the last week of September, but Craig was reporting to be very low... Things are becoming clearer. If questions ask.

 

  • EverestNews.com is receiving dispatches from Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. The latest dispatch is posted below. For all the dispatches so far see  The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.

    Special Report on the International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000

    Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu climb:

    Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu.

    Dispatch 6: 9/22/98

    The IMG Cho Oyu team reports good progress this past week, despite a turn in the weather.  Leader Bob Sloezen tells us by satellite e mail from the 18,500 foot Advanced Base Camp (ABC)  that it has been snowing heavily every afternoon. 

    The team has been busy stocking the higher camps, and also working in the area of ABC to clean up trash.  The CTMA (China Tibet Mountaineering Association) has hired Tibetan yak herders to go to ABC to help carry trash down from this area.  Team members bagged up bottles and cans for transport by yak back down to Base Camp.  From here the CTMA trucks the garbage out to Tingri. 

    ABC shows signs of being cleaner, as the expeditions conducted by IGO 8000 members (including  IMG) are now using shit barrels for toilets.  This has been required of expedition teams for several years at Everest Base Camp (Nepal side), but is still voluntary at Cho Oyu.  Hopefully other teams will follow the example of the IGO 8000 teams to use shit barrels.  The trouble remains that unscrupulous operators charging rock bottom prices don't have the money budgeted to haul out their garbage, let along shit barrels.

    The IMG guides and Sherpas worked with members of several other IGO 8000 expeditions to put in fixed rope between Camp 1 and Camp 2.  This part of the climb is quite steep in places, requiring fixing. 

    Mark Smith is back at ABC, after having to go down to BC for a few days to recover from illness.  Most team members have now slept at Camp 1.  Henry Hamlin (68 years old!) and Ang Nima made it up the ice cliff, and returned to Camp 1.  Heather Macdonald, Alan Arnette, and Borge Ousland went to Camp 2 to sleep.  Most of the other team members went to Camp 2 for a carry and have now descended to rest at ABC, in preparation for going back to Camp 2 with the goal being to sleep at Camp 2 for acclimatization.  After that, members will descend to ABC for several rest days before heading up on  the summit bids.

    Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000 www.climbnet.com/img

Daily News: 9/21/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: Little action on Everest, with climbers going between lower camps and BC. Camps still being established.
  • It appears The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com video reports will be delayed until the first week of October.
  • EverestNews.com is receiving updates from Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. For all the updates so far see  The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.
  • The 98 Autumn, 1999 Everest Expeditions Links has been updated.
  • Check out EverestNews.com two Mountaineering book pages.

Daily News: 9/20/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com video reports should begin soon. However, they have reported to EverestNews.com that one French climber has pulmonary edema. Check their web site for all the details. It appears the Japanese climber (Masa) has given up his solo attempt on the Hornbein direct route after reaching 8,400 meters. A great effort by Masa !
  • The web sites of the week are: the official homepage of Goran Kropp http://www.kroppaventyr.se/english/index.html and the 23rd Annual Banff Mountain Film Festival: Nov 6-8 1998 http://www.banffcentre.ab.ca/CMC/film/film_index.html  
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :The Crystal Horizon : Everest-The First Solo Ascent - Reinhold Messner; Paperback  The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat,

Daily News: 9/19/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com is due to begin their video reports on Sunday 9/20/98 ! Reports were not sent on 9/19/98 for reasons unknown to EverestNews.com at this time.
  • Waldemar Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we followed on K2 this year interview with EverestNews.com is below (9/16/98). The questions were from the readers of EverestNews.com ! EverestNews.com is going to try to submit follow up questions. Please submit your questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net .
  • EverestNews.com is planning on keeping the North and South News on this News Page during the Autumn Everest Season. The update time, as stated before, will vary depending the News.
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :The Crystal Horizon : Everest-The First Solo Ascent - Reinhold Messner; Paperback  The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat,

Daily News: 9/18/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: Climbers on both sides of Everest continue to move up the mountain with Camp 1 and Camp 2 on both sides in the process of being established. Summit attempt are still expected the last week of September and the first week of October. However, as reported earlier, one Japanese climber was reported (on Monday) to be at 8,000 meters and climbing up the Hornbein Direct route solo !
  • EverestNews.com is receiving updates from Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. For all the updates so far see  The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.
  • Free Electronic Greeting Cards for the Planet has asked us to tell you about their free electronic greetings cards site. They have a new section on movie cards with a section on the new movie Everest at http://www.123greetings.com/movies/everest/ Interesting !
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :The Crystal Horizon : Everest-The First Solo Ascent - Reinhold Messner; Paperback  The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat,

NEWSFLASH 9/17/98 11:14AM EST

  • The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com has notified us that they seen Masa (The Japanese Climber, climbing solo) at 26,000 feet climbing alone on the Hornbein Direct route. So we might have a Summit soon ! And what a Summit it would be ! A solo of the Hornbein Direct route ! All of our best to Masa !!!
  • Check The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com earlier updates...

Daily News: 9/17/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: Climbers on both sides of Everest continue to move up the mountain with Camp 1 and Camp 2 on both sides in the process of being established. Summit attempt are still expected the last week of September and the first week of October. However, the first week of October is probably a better guess at this point. News from Everest is somewhat thin.
  • The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com  has been updated and is posting what looks like a tentative plan for himself.
  • Check out EverestNews.com two Mountaineering book pages.

Daily News: 9/16/98 Report

  • Waldemar Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we followed on K2 this year interview with EverestNews.com is below. The questions were from the readers of EverestNews.com ! EverestNews.com is going to try to submit follow up questions. Please submit your questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net .

EverestNews.com Interview with Everest Climber Waldemar Niclevicz:

Q .) Would like to ask W. Niclevicz, what makes his summit failed on K2 this year. And, is he preparing a new climb at the Everest?

A .) NO ONE REACHED K2 SUMMIT THIS YEAR AND THE  MAIN REASON IS THE WEATHER. IT WAS REALLY BAD. IN TWO MONTHS WE HAD ONLY FOUR CONSECUTIVE DAYS OF GOOD WEATHER, THERE WAS STRONG SNOW AND A LOT OF WIND. EVEN LIKE THAT WE MANAGED TO GET AT APPROXIMATELY 8.000m. WE WERE THE ONLY TEAM TO REACH THIS ALTITUDE. BY NOW, I DON'T HAVE PLANS TO CLIMB EVEREST AGAIN. I DID AN ATTEMPT BY NEPAL SIDE IN 91 AND REACHED 8.500m, AND DID THE SUMMIT BY TIBET IN 95. I BELIEVE I KNOW THIS MOUNTAIN WELL AND IT WOULD BE MORE GRATEFUL TO GO INTO NEW PLACES.

Q.) Which climb has brought you the most satisfaction?

A.) I'VE DONE LOTS OF CLIMBS, SO IT'S VERY DIFFICULT TO ANSWER THIS QUESTION. I HAVE A SPECIAL KINDNESS FOR THE ANDES MOUNTAINS, SPECIALLY FOR THE WHITE RIDGE, WHERE THE HUASCARAN AND CHOPICALQUI CLIMBS ARE AMONGST THE MOST BEAUTIFUL I'VE EVER DONE. BUT THE HIMALAYANS ARE ALSO VERY INVOLVING. I ALSO HAVE AMAZING MEMORIES FROM EVEREST AND K2.

Q..) After spending a long time on the summit of Everest this year, what does Waldemar think of the idea of spending the night there? What does Waldemar think about Babu Chhiri Sherpa plans to sleep at Everest Summit?

A.) IT WOULD BE VERY INTERESTING TO SPEND THE NIGHT AT 8.848m TO REGARD SUNSET AND SUNRISE AT THE TOP OF EVEREST, BUT I BELIEVE IT'S TOO MUCH RISKFUL. I SPENT 3 HOURS AND 10 MINUTES UP THERE, BUT ONLY BECAUSE THE DAY WAS SPECTACULAR, SUNNY AND WITHOUT WIND. TO SPEND THE NIGHT AT THE TOP OF THIS BIG MOUNTAIN IS AN UNNECESSARY RISK.

Q.) Tell us about Everest 95. Was he guided by AB? what did happen on the way to the summit? Did anyone die? I read in The Climb that Henry Todd (who's team Waldemar was on)  has never lost a client, is this true? If so, why not in his opinion?

A.) I WASN'T GUIDED BY ANATOLI BOUKREEV IN 95, BUT WE WERE AT THE SAME EXPEDITION. WE WERE 13 CLIMBERS AND ME AND MY PARTNER FROM BRAZIL WERE THE FIRST TO SUMMIT AT MAY 14th. ANATOLI, ANOTHER RUSSIAN CLIMBER AND AN ENGLISH WERE THE SECOND ONES, AT MAY 17th. FORTUNATELY WE DIDN'T HAVE ANY TRAGEDY IN 95. NOBODY DIED. ABOUT HENRY TODD, I DON'T KNOW HIS GUIDING CAREER ENOUGH TO ANSWER THE QUESTION.

Q.) Does Waldemar have an opinion on Everest 96 south side? What does he feel about AB going down early? What does he feel happened wrong? Should people be able to guide without O2? Did AB use O2 on Everest 95?

A.) IT WAS THE WORST TRAGEDY ON EVEREST HISTORY AND THE MOST SAD IS TO KNOW THAT MOST OF THE VICTIMS WERE CLIENTS. IT HAPPENED AN EXCESS OF TRUST OF THOSE CLIENTS IN THEIRS GUIDES, THE EXPEDITIONS' CHIEFS UNDERESTIMATED THE MOUNTAIN AND DIDN'T REALIZED HOW DANGEROUS THE SITUATION WAS. ANATOLI MAY HAVE BEEN THE ONLY ONE TO TAKE THE RIGHT DECISION AND I BELIEVE HE WOULD HAVE PREFERRED THAT EVERYONE SHOULD HAVE GONE DOWN AT THAT HOUR. I THINK A CLIMBER CAN GUIDE WITHOUT USING ARTIFICIAL OXYGEN, AS LONG AS HE DOESN'T LOOSE THE CONTROL OF THE SITUATION. I'M NOT SURE IF ANATOLI USED OR NOT OXYGEN IN 95, I GUESS NO.

Q.) Was he on K2 with Alison Hargreaves ? If so what does he think happened to her? Was she a great climber or just another climber?

A.) I WASN'T WITH ALISON AT K2. I MET HER IN 95 ON EVEREST. SHE DID THE SUMMIT ONE DAY BEFORE ME. SHE WAS A VERY GOOD CLIMBER, VERY SYMPATHETIC, AND SHOWED TO HAVE A LOT OF TRUST IN HERSELF.

Q.) The Italians said Heidi was not a very good climber on their web site? Is this true? Was there a problem between the Italians and the Americans on K2 this year?  Were the Americans good enough to be on K2 this year?

A.) I THINK THE POINT ISN'T HEIDI'S  ABILITIES , BUT THE ITALIANS BELIEVED THEY WERE THE BEST, WHICH IS NOT UNTRUE, BECAUSE ALL OF THEM WERE MOUNTAIN GUIDES. HEIDI SEEMED TO ME TO BE A VERY GOOD CLIMBER, ALWAYS FULL OF DISPOSAL AND VERY ENCOURAGED. NO OTHER TEAM WAS SO WELL PREPARED TO FACE K2 AS OURS, SO THE ITALIANS GOT DISCONTENTS WITH THE LACK OF COLLABORATION, BECAUSE ALL THE WORK OF FIXING ROPES WAS DONE BY OURSELVES. I DIDN'T CARE ABOUT IT BECAUSE TO ME IT WAS A PLEASURE TO BREAK THE TRAIL, EVEN IF THAT MEANT SPENDING MORE ENERGY.

Q.) How much difference does if make not having sherpas on K2?

A.) THERE IS A LOT OF DIFFERENCE. IT WOULD BE MUCH MORE EASY TO CLIMB K2 WITH SHERPA SUPPORT. THE BALTIS ARE NOT SKILLFUL CLIMBERS AND NOT SO GOOD PORTERS. SHERPAS ARE STRONGER AND HAVE MORE RESPECT FOR THE MOUNTAINS. THERE IS ALSO A DIFFERENT RELATIONSHIP WITH THE CLIMBERS WHO HIRE THEM.

Q.) What does he think about someone snowboarding or skiing down Everest ?

A.) I THINK THE IDEA IS GREAT AND A BIG CHALLENGE.

Q.) How did he begin climbing? What does he think is important for someone wanting to start climbing?

A.) I STARTED CLIMBING NATURALLY AFTER KNOWING MY FIRST MOUNTAIN (MARUMBI PEAK, AT 1.547m, NEAR MY TOWN) AND BECOMING FRIEND WITH CLIMBERS. IT'S VERY IMPORTANT TO START CLIMBING IN THE RIGHT WAY, TO AVOID VICIOUSNESS AND UNNECESSARY RISKS. I RECOMMEND TO MAKE A GOOD COURSE WITH A PROFESSIONAL MOUNTAIN GUIDE BEFORE START HANGING OVER ROPES  BY YOURSELF. IT'S GOOD TO KEEP IN MIND THAT THE MOUNTAIN OFFERS DANGERS AND IT'S NOT A PLACE FOR KIDDING. TO RESPECT ITS HUGE NATURE AND YOUR OWN LIMITS IS NEVER ENOUGH.

Many Thanks to guta nascimento, for her assistance !!!

Daily News: 9/15/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com is receiving dispatches from Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. The latest dispatch is posted below. For all the dispatches so far see  The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.

    Special Report on the International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000

    Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu climb:

    Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu.

    Dispatch 5: 9/14/98

    The IMG Cho Oyu team has now established Camp 1 at about 20,600 feet.  The route to Camp 1 is several hours of very rugged hiking up the moraine and glacier, then several more hours climbing up a steep and rocky spur to the Camp.  Members are now moving up to sleep at Camp 1.  The Sherpas have moved higher, and have put in Camp 2 at 23,300'.  Some fixed rope has also been installed on steep sections of the route in between, including the ice cliff.

    The Route between Camp 1 and Camp 2 is the most technical part of the route, with several sections of cramponing.  The ice cliff is about 200 feet high, and is in the 70-80 degree range.  Once the fixed ropes are installed and steps chopped, it is reasonable.  To get down, it is necessary to rappel with a pack.

    Over the next few days members will sleep at Camp 1 and start carrying some loads to Camp 2.  The weather has stabilized and the conditions are good.

    Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000 www.climbnet.com/img

  • The Great Swiss Climber, Albert Eggler (85) has died in a climbing accident. Mr. Eggler led the first successful summit expedition of Lhotse (1956) and the some of the early parties (2 parties, 4 climbers) to Summit Everest in 1956.
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :The Crystal Horizon : Everest-The First Solo Ascent - Reinhold Messner; Paperback  The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat,

Daily News: 9/14/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: Climbers on both sides of Everest are moving up the mountain ! Camps are being established and loads are being carried. Summit attempt still expected the last week of September and the first week of October. Still no news on the Japanese climbers on the North Side ...
  • The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com  has an interesting update on the French performing a snowboarding "test".
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :The Crystal Horizon : Everest-The First Solo Ascent - Reinhold Messner; Paperback  

Daily News: 9/13/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: www.sport.com has updated their web site and are now reporting that the French climbers are now planning on climbing the normal route and are still planning on snowboarding down from the summit but the route might now change.
  • Web Site of the week is: http://www.wielicki-group.top.pl/himalaya/wielicki2e.html . Krzysztof Wielicki (Poland) is the fifth person to reach the Summit of all 14 8000 meter peaks. He also made is the first winter ascent of  Everest (8848m.) 1980 -   (with  Cichy).  Submit those web sites to : everestnews2004@adelphia.net .
  • EverestNews.com has added a new page for the web sites of the week.
  • EverestNews.com is planning on keeping the North and South Side News on this News Page during the Autumn Everest Season. The update time, as stated before, will vary depending the News.
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :The Crystal Horizon : Everest-The First Solo Ascent - Reinhold Messner; Paperback  

Daily News: 9/12/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com is receiving dispatches from Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. The latest dispatch is posted below. For all the dispatches so far see  The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.

    Special Report on the International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000

    Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu climb:

    Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu.

    Dispatch 4: 9/12/98

    The IMG team has now established Advanced Base Camp.  The yak team dumped the loads on a rocky site at approximately 18,500 feet.  This site is located about two miles northeast of Nangpa La, the pass over the Himalaya (to Khumbu).  Below ABC, climbers turn east from the trade route, and head up a side glacier to the ABC which is located on a rugged moraine.  Because it is uphill and out of the way, traders and refugees do not come up to the ABC area, though it is not uncommon to see them further down the valley.  From the site of ABC, it is possible to watch the yak caravans of traders going over the pass.

    At the ABC the team has erected a large kitchen tent, a very large Mountain Hardware Satellite Dome for a mess tent, and many smaller storage and sleeping tents.  In addition, the team has established their solar power system (five 20 watt panels going to a voltage regulator, then to a large deep cycle 12volt battery).  This system powers the Inmarsat C satellite system, as well as the VHF radios which link the ABC to BC, as well as make it possible to communicate with the climbers on the mountain.

    The team completed their puja ceremony at ABC.  This Buddhist ritual is important for the Sherpas and a lot of fun for the team.  After a series of chants and prayers,  prayer flags are set out, juniper burned, rice and tsampa thrown into the air, and many toasts made and consumed by the team!

    Now the work begins.  Many loads need to be carried to Camp 1, and everyone will work at doing this.  These carries are difficult, especially before everyone is fully acclimatized.  Nonetheless, this is the best way to get acclimatized...carrying loads!

    Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000 www.climbnet.com/img

Daily News: 9/11/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: Climbers are moving up the mountain ! Summit attempts are now expected the last week of September (pretty soon) or the first week of October !
  • Autumn Everest 98: Sherpa Team featuring Kaji Sherpa (33), who as we reported earlier, will attempt to break the speed record on climbing Everest this Autumn, will be assisted on his team by the following Sherpa climbers: Tashi Tshering Sherpa, Tashi Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa and Tshering Sherpa. We also understand the expedition name is : The Tuborg Speed Everest Expedition 98.
  • OTT Expeditions who pioneered the first English and Polish ascents of Everest's North Ridge, has announced plans to attempt Everest by the North Side in Spring 99. OTT is led by guide Jon Tinker. Their web site will be added to the 99 Everest Expedition links page soon.
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :The Crystal Horizon : Everest-The First Solo Ascent - Reinhold Messner; Paperback  

Daily News: 9/10/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com has reported to EverestNews.com that the weather is still clear on Everest ! The Italians on the North side are moving up the mountain. See www.skiingeverest.com for more details on the North Side.
  • Damage from the earthquake appears, based on the limited number of news reports, to have been limited to the remote areas of Nepal and China. However as you know, news from these areas is not readily available, therefore it could be several days or weeks before news is released.
  • EverestNews.com is receiving updates from Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. For all the updates so far see  The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :The Crystal Horizon : Everest-The First Solo Ascent - Reinhold Messner; Paperback   

Daily News: 9/9/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: The weather is clearing on Everest ! Still no news on the two Japanese climbers on the North Side (Masa, the climber and his wife) after the earthquake.
  • EverestNews.com is receiving updates from Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. For all the updates so far see  The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.
  • The first set of interview questions have been sent to Waldemar Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we followed on K2 this year. Submit your questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net .
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :The Crystal Horizon : Everest-The First Solo Ascent - Reinhold Messner; Paperback  

Daily News: 9/8/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: It has been reported to EverestNews.com that a Sherpa Team featuring Kaji Sherpa (33), who has reached the summit of Everest four times, will attempt to break the speed record on climbing Everest this Autumn ! The current record is by Marc Bartard (French in 22 hours and 29 minutes). The expedition is called Everest Expedition 98. Kaji also has reached the summit of four other 8000 meter peaks. Four other Sherpa will join Kaji in his attempt.
  • Web Site of the week is: http://www.montblanconline.fr/pagesa/indeux.htm. Where there is a story to call to bar Mont Blanc climbers after 15 die. Submit those web sites to : everestnews2004@adelphia.net .
  • EverestNews.com has received a number of good questions for Waldemar Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we followed on K2 this year. Submit your questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net .
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :The Crystal Horizon : Everest-The First Solo Ascent - Reinhold Messner; Paperback 

Daily News: 9/7/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: The weather is quite bad with heavy snow falling. Still no news on the two Japanese climbers (Masa, the climber and his wife) after the earthquake.
  • Waldemar Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we followed on K2 this year is willing to give an interview with EverestNews.com. He is also willing to take questions from our readers !!!. Please submit your questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net . Feel free to ask what you wish. Waldemar will be happy to try to answer your questions.
  • At the end of the Matthew Randall's story on the Seattle Candlelighters Web Site you will see a picture of Craig John on the Summit of Everest this year with Matthew's flag. Just go to www.seacandlelighters.org and then go to "Candles" to see Matthew's story plus some of his friends. There are lots of Matthew pictures too!
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :The Crystal Horizon : Everest-The First Solo Ascent - Reinhold Messner; Paperback  

Daily News: 9/6/98 Report

  • Everest Autumn 98 has been another wild 48 hours with a major 5-6 earthquake hitting eastern Nepal on Friday. Major avalanches on Everest !
  • Everest Autumn South Side 98: One very good source in Nepal reported to EverestNews.com: "We have had no news from the South Side too. I believe everyone is OK on south side.  We have no any news so far of any adverse effect on other climbers on other mountains. The only thing we know is that a lake/glacier on the other side of Lukla (near Mera Peak) burst the same day the earthquake occurred.  As a result a number of bridges including some houses have been washed away in Khumbu killing some villagers.  We don't know yet whether it was the impact of the earthquake. "
  • Everest Autumn North Side 98: The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com has reported to EverestNews.com that they are concerned about the two Japanese climbers (Masa, the climber and his wife) after the earthquake. Should know today or Monday if they are OK. See www.skiingeverest.com for more details on the North Side.
  • Cho Oyu News: The President of Romanian Mountaineering Club, Mr. Constantin Lacatusu, who holds the record of being the 1st Romanian climber on 8000 m peak in
    1992 and the 1st Romanian Climber on the summit of Mt. Everest in 1995, is taking part in the 1st Romanina Solo Expedition to Mt. Cho-Oyu - Autumn '98. Mr. Constantin Lacatusu departed Kathmandu for Zangmu on his way to the Base Camp of Mt. Cho-Oyu on 2nd September 1998. Please see Eric Simonson's, International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000 report on 9/5/98 for the most recent news from Cho Oyu.
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :The Crystal Horizon : Everest-The First Solo Ascent - Reinhold Messner; Paperback  

NEWSFLASH 9/5/98 8:01AM EST

  • A major 5.6 earthquake has hit eastern Nepal on Friday. The epicenter is reportedly about 100 miles east of Kathmandu near Chamlang. Chamlang is southeast of Everest. Major  avalanches on Everest ! Most climbers luckily at BC or ABC, concern mainly on South Side if anyone would have been in the Khumbu Icefall.

Daily News: 9/5/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com is receiving updates from Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. The latest update is posted below. For all the updates so far see  The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.

    Special Report on the International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000

    Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu climb:

    Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu.

    Update 3: 9/5/98

    The Cho Oyu team reports by satellite e mail that all is well at Base Camp.  They have spent the last several days acclimatizing with day hikes, and re-packing food and equipment into yak loads.  The yaks (20 of them) have arrived at Base Camp, and they will be starting up tomorrow with some of the team, and Sherpas, to establish ABC  at !8,500'.  The total distance from BC to ABC is nearly 15 miles, much of it rugged hiking on rocks and boulders adjacent to lateral moraines of the Gyabrag Glacier.  This is the same route for much of the way as the Nangpa La trade route to Khumbu.  On the first trip up the team will stay at an intermediate camp at about 17,000 feet.   Later, if people go back and forth between BC and ABC, they can do it in one day.  They first time up however, when everyone is not fully acclimatized, they will take two days.

    The yaks are strong this time of year, since they have been grazing on fresh grass all summer, so they can carry about 60 pounds on each side without too much problem.  The plan is for the yaks to return to BC in a few days and bring up some additional supplies.  Several members who wanted to stay down a few extra days for additional acclimatization, will go up on the second yak wave.

    The heavy rains from the past season have left the mountain covered in a lot of snow, reports  expedition leader Bob Sloezen.  Also,  Bob reports that co-leader Heather Macdonald and team member Jason Dittmer saved the life of a Spanish climber yesterday.  Apparently this man had come quickly to Base Camp with improper acclimatization.  He became deathly sick with cerebral edema.  Heather administered injections of dexamethasome, put him on oxygen, and the American team pumped him in their Gamow (hyperbaric) bag.  Then they assisted him in transportation to Tingri.  It sounds like the Spanish team had neither their own jeep, oxygen, or Gamow bag available to them, and that this man would have died otherwise.

    This points out one of the big problems with climbing in Tibet...it is so high, there is no where to go to get down lower.  Once you get sick, you WILL die if you can't get a jeep ride to lower altitude.  The oxygen, Gamow, drugs, etc are great, but they won't stop the edema once it really kicks in...they just buy you time.  Descent or death are the only options.

    Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000 www.climbnet.com/img

  • EverestNews.com feature book is :The Crystal Horizon : Everest-The First Solo Ascent - Reinhold Messner; Paperback  

Daily News: 9/4/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: Rain, Rain, go away !  No movement up the mountain is expected for at least a few days.
  • Dutton Books is expected to release Within Reach : My Everest Story By Mark Pfetzer and Jack Galvin. Mark Pfetzer was on Henry Todd Expedition on Everest 96. EverestNews.com is being told the story is about the youngest person to climb (?) (attempt ?) Everest  (Mark) and his VERSION of the situation in 96 !!! Who would have guessed it ! The information available on the book is sketchy just like Everest 96. Amazon says , Not Yet Available. List Price: $16.99, Our Price: $11.89, You Save: $5.10 (30%)
  • EverestNews.com will let you know when you can order Within Reach from Amazon. We all researching Mark.
  • Waldemar Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we followed on K2 this year is willing to give an interview with EverestNews.com. He is also willing to take questions from our readers !!!. Please submit your questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net . Feel free to ask what you wish. Waldemar will be happy to try to answer your questions.
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :The Crystal Horizon : Everest-The First Solo Ascent - Reinhold Messner; Paperback  

Daily News: 9/3/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: Climbers are basically staying at BC with bad weather. No movement up the mountain is expected for at least a few days.
  • Waldemar Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we followed on K2 this year is willing to give an interview with EverestNews.com. He is also willing to take questions from our readers !!!. Please submit your questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net . Feel free to ask what you wish. Waldemar will be happy to try to answer your questions.
  • The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 web site featuring Climber Craig Calonica has been updated. Source: John Sheridan Reed
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death, Jim Wickwire, Dorothy Bullitt/Hardcover/Published 1998. 

Daily News: 9/2/98 Report

  • Chris Bonington is on his latest Expedition to Sepu Kangri (6,950m) in Tibet. Chris update's will be posted on the web site http://www.bonington.com/sepuweb2/index.htm
  • Waldemar Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we followed on K2 this year is willing to give an interview with EverestNews.com. He is also willing to take questions from our readers !!!. Please submit your questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net . Questions can be about this year K2 expedition, and you might ask about other climbs or climbers you are interesting in, i.e. Waldemar summit of Everest when Anatoli Boukreev was with him.
  • Matthew Randall's story is FINALLY on the Seattle Candlelighters Web Site! Just go to www.seacandlelighters.org and then go to "Candles" to see Matthew's story plus some of his friends. There are lots of Matthew pictures too!

Daily News: 9/1/98 Report

  • Waldemar Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we followed on K2 this year is willing to give an interview with EverestNews.com. He is also willing to take questions from our readers !!!. Please submit your questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net . Questions can be about this year K2 expedition, and you might ask about other climbs or climbers you are interesting in, i.e. Waldemar summit of Everest when Anatoli Boukreev was with him.
  • The Everest Autumn 98 teams are setting up base camps, and getting things in order to begin their attempts on Everest this Autumn.
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death, Jim Wickwire, Dorothy Bullitt/Hardcover/Published 1998. 

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