Without
our sponsors, you wouldn't see this site, please visit our
sponsors.
September 1998 Daily News
For Latest
News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for a list of
all the Daily Reports plus many other stories. If you are new to the site you will want to
visit the Site Index... along with the homepage...
Please visit EverestNews.com Sponsor page !
Special Report on the International Mountain
Guides / Expedition 8000
Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu climb:
Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three
times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as
they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu.
Dispatch 8: 9/30/98
Bob Sloezen reports from ABC that the summit was reached by Jethro
Robinson, Borge Ousland, Heather Macdonald, and Alan Arnette on the 29th in
very difficult conditions which included thigh deep snow. Alan and Heather did not
actually cross the summit plateau, due to the conditions. Jethro and Borge plowed across
the plateau and stood on the true summit.
On the 30th, the second summit team of Bob Sloezen , Jason Dittmer,
Bob LaRoche, and Tony Smucler, Ang Passang, and Lakpa Rita turned back below Camp 3 due to
deep snow and avalanche conditions.
The other two team members, Mike Demartino and Henry Hamlin, had
turned back from below Camp 2 due to fatigue (Mike) and dizziness, nausea, and blurry
vision (Henry).
Bob reports that on the 27th he and Heather buried Alex
Jaggi in a crevasse near Camp 2, an experience he describes as devastating.
The team is now back at ABC, and is working on recovering loads form
Camp 1 and 2 over the next couple days. The schedule is to return to BC by the 4th,
and arrive Kathmandu by the 6th.
I want to say that I am proud of Everyone on this team for hanging
in there and giving the mountain a good shot in difficult conditions and with significant
adversity. Congratulations and have a safe trip home!
Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition
8000 www.climbnet.com/img
Daily News: 9/30/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98: The best information EverestNews.com
has right now is
that climbers attempted Everest from the South but were probably not successful due to the
lack of information coming out. It is speculated that the climbers ran into bad weather
(that Craig C. reported) and are staying at high camps hoping for a break in the weather.
This is the best speculation we have. The Japanese on the South Side has
not filed a report since the 21st ! Time is getting short in that there is only a few more
weeks left in the normal climbing season. Let's all continue to hope for the best.
Autumn Everest 98: The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 (www.skiingeverest.com)
has added technical "updates" to their site. They are not easy to find, you need
to look under Dispatches: Technical Team. We think you will find these updates very
interesting. If you can't find them e-mail us.
Cho Oyu: The following members of the International Cho-Oyu
Expedition '98
successfully climbed to the summit of Cho-Oyu on 24th September:
Ms. Tuula Nousiainen Helena (Finish climber)
Ms. Susan Erica (Australian climber)
Mr. Naga Dorje Sherpa (Tuula's climbing Sherpa)
Mr. Chhong Ringe Sherpa (Tuula's climbing Sherpa)
Mr. Ngima Dorje Sherpa (Susan's climbing Sherpa)
Tuula Nousiainen Helena has thus become the first Finnish Woman to climb
the 8,000 m. peak.
(c) The Himalayan Experience Cho-Oyu Expedition - Autumn '98 led by Russell Brice (New
Zealander) made an unsuccessful attempt to the summit on 30th September but returned due
to bad weather.
(d) The President of Romanian Mountaineering Club, Mr. Constantin Lacatusu, successfully
made it to the summit on 28th September.
Autumn Everest 98: EverestNews.com continues to receive information that
Summit attempts are (were) underway on the South Side as earlier reported (9/27/98).
However, no Summits has been reported to EverestNews.com yet . This could be because of the
limited number of climbers (teams) and communication equipment on the mountain or because
the climbers turned around. We simply don't know at this time. However, we continue to
hear that climbers are up high. Let's all hope for the best !!! News should could in the
next 12-24 hours.
Listed below is the list of climbers on Everest this Autumn per your
requests followed by the News Index !
Daily News: 9/29/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98: The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 (www.skiingeverest.com)
technical team has arrived in Base Camp and has remained in good health. They will send
out a test broadcast tomorrow and during the following days they will send out three live
shows per day !!! For the first time, everyone connected to the internet will be able to
follow an Everest expedition live. Over 20 live shows will be sent from Everest during the
first week of October. Download and install the Windows Media Player or Real Player NOW so
you won't miss out on all the excitement! No other news received from Everest today so
far !!!
EverestNews.com
is receiving dispatches from Eric Simonson's 1998
IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. The latest dispatch is posted below. For all the
dispatches so far see The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team
page.
Special Report on the
International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000
Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu climb:
Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three
times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as
they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu.
Dispatch 7: 9/28/98
Bob Sloezen reports from ABC good and bad news.
The good news is that the IMG team is doing fine, with summit bids
planned over the next several days. All the climbers, with the exception of Mark
Smith who is still sick, are now moving up to Camp One, after several days of rest
at ABC.
The bad news is that the two non-guided climbers who were on the IMG
permit, but climbing separately, had a serious problem. On September 25, Alex Jaggi
(42, Swiss) , Keitaro Mooroka (28, Japanese) summitted Cho Oyu along with their
Sherpa Norbu (5x Everest). They used oxygen above Camp 3, and were able to return to
Camp 2 before dark, which suggests that they were moving strongly and doing fine.
Apparently everything was OK when they went to bed, in separate tents. Jaggi was by
himself in a tent, but when Mooroka tried to wake him in the morning, he was dead.
It is unclear what happened. Speculation includes that he fell asleep while cooking
in the tent and died of CO poisoning or perhaps had some acute medical problem during the
night. Bob Sloezen is now going up to Camp 2 ahead of the IMG team to bury Jaggi on
the mountain, in accordance with Jaggi's Body Disposal Form (filled out by him before the
climb). Our sincere condolences to Jaggi's family, which lives in Switzerland.
Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition
8000 www.climbnet.com/img
Autumn Everest 98: The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998
www.skiingeverest.com is
reporting bad weather ! Other reports are good weather! This is Everest !
EverestNews.com
feature book is : Within Reach : My
Everest Story ~ Usually ships in 24 hours: Mark Pfetzer, Jack Galvin
/ Hardcover / Published 1998.
Daily News: 9/27/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98: We have an unconfirmed report of a planned summit
attempt tonight ! Many climbers are still high on the mountain, the weather still
reportedly good.
Autumn Everest 98: The technical team for The ProViva Everest
Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com led by our friend John
Sheridan Reed, are headed for Everest's North Side with video reports due in a few days.
The web site of the week is (per numerous requests for more
information on her): Sandy Hill Pittman http://www.gsn.org/past/kidspeak/index.html
Autumn Everest 98: Many climbers are still high on the mountain, the
weather is reportedly good. So we will just have to see when someone goes for the summit
again !
Our friends at Risk has updated their site at
www.risk.ru
with several expeditions in progress this fall ! Be sure to check them out !
Autumn Everest 98 North Side: The ProViva Everest Ski
Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com is reporting that the all the
climbers except Martini Sergio from the Italian team and Dawa Sherpa from the Spanish Team
turned around because of unstable snow conditions. It is unclear at what spot they turned
around.
Autumn Everest 98 South Side: Climbers are high on the mountain, and
are therefore not sending reports. One could assume that the snow conditions might not
stop the South side climbers given that excellent (Everest) weather conditions are being
reported.
In case you miss it: The climbers on the South Side are:
South Side:
Japanese climbing from South West Face.
Japanese Everest Team: Ken Noguchi's Team, Noriyuki Muraguchi (High
Altitude Camera Man). Noriyuki Muraguchi will accompany Ken Noguchi to the summit. Base
Camp Staff: Ms. Kuniko Miyashita Base Camp Supporter, Takeshi Shiba Base Camp Reporter,
and Takeshi Kitagawa Cameraman. The High Altitude Sherpas (Asian-Trekking): Dawa Teshi
Sherpa ( 6 times Everest summitter) will be H.A. Sirdar, Tamting Sherpa, Pasang Tshering
Sherpa, Nawang Tenzi Sherpa, Krishna Bahadur Tamang, Pemba Sherpa (Cook), and Chimi
Tshering Sherpa (Kitchen Boy).
Spanish Everest Expedition: The team consists of : Juan Corro Tormo
(Expedition Leader), Ricardo Villar Garcia, Javier Garcia, Ramiro Beltron Miravet, and
Carlos Pitarch Francisco. High Altitude Sherpas: Pasang Temba Sherpa (H.A.Sirdar), Ang
Kami Sherpa (High Altitude Cook), Nurbu Sherpa, Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Gyalzen
Sherpa, Dorje Sherpa, and Lhakpa Tamang (Kitchen Boy). This Expedition is also supported
by Asian-Trekking.
Sherpa Team featuring Kaji Sherpa (33), who as we reported earlier,
will attempt to break the speed record on climbing Everest this Autumn, will be assisted
on his team by the following Sherpa climbers: Tashi Tshering Sherpa, Tashi Sherpa, Lakpa
Sherpa and Tshering Sherpa. We also understand the expedition name is : The Tuborg Speed
Everest Expedition 98.
Autumn Everest 98 North Side: The Italians, Spanish, and French are
believed to be going from Camp IV to Camp V today, and attempt the Summit on Friday !!!
Craig Calonica as reported on The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com is
not attempting the summit at this time.
In case you missed it: Below is the climbers on the North Side and
the status information on who has left.
North Side
French Team - The Team consists of Jerome Ruby (Jerome left Everest
and is in Kathmandu. He had suffered from severe altitude sickness.) Leader, Andre Rehm,
Samuel Beauget, Panuru Sherpa High Altitude Sirdar, Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa High Altitude
Sherpa, Ang Pasang Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Gyalzen Sherpa Cook, and Gombu Dorje Lama
Kitchen Boy.
ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998, American climber Craig
Calonica, Lakpa Dorjee Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Dawa Tsiri High Altitude Sherpa, Maule
Tamang High Altitude Sherpa, and Pinjo Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa.
The Italian Team - consists of Martini Sergio Italian, Simone Moro
Italian, Casanova Diego Italian, and Iman Singh Tamang High Altitude Sherpa/Cook .
Spanish Team - The Team consists of Ms. Majesus Lagorey Spanish,
Pasang Rinzee Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Kusang Dorjee, Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, and
Dawa Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa.
Japanese (Masa and his wife), has now left Everest after attempting
the summit.
All Sherpa/Support Teams by Asian-Trekking.
The solo effort by the Japanese climber (Masa) on the Hornbein direct
route reaching 8,400 meters, if correct as reported, is a truly great effort. One friend
of ours described it as "that is the best solo effort on the North Face since
Messner!" . We would hope some time in the future to be able to bring you more
information on this effort from our Japanese contacts who are climbing right now !
Daily News: 9/23/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98: As reported yesterday, climbers on the North Side
should be at Camp IV today, going to Camp V on the 24th, and attempt the Summit on 25th of
September. The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com expedition
is updated. It appears Craig will not go with the others on the summit attempt. His video
crew also has not arrived yet.
In case you missed it: EverestNews.com is receiving updates from Eric
Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. For all the updates so far
see The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.
Daily News: 9/22/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98: Did we say little News ??? The leader of the
French Wahimea Everest - Tibet - Expedition '98, Mr. Jerome Ruby, arrived in Kathmandu in
the evening on 21st September. He had suffered from severe altitude sickness while
climbing the mountain and, therefore, decided to return to Kathmandu.
According to the information provided by Mr. Jerome Ruby:
(a) Climbing via the Messner Coiler route, the Japanese arrived at 8,400 m on 14th or 15th
of September (Jerome is not so sure of the exact date). The team, then, abandoned
their attempt and returned to Kathmandu.
(b) The following members of the French Wahimea Everest - Tibet - Expedition '98
established Camp IV at 7,800 m on 16th September: Samuel Beauget (French), Panuru
Sherpa (High Altitude Sirdar, 3 times Everest Summitter), Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa (High
Altitude Sherpa, 2 times Everest Summitter), Ang Pasang Sherpa
(High Altitude Sherpa, 1 time Everest Summitter)
(c) The following members of the Italian Everest - Tibet - Expedition '98 established Camp
IV at 7,500 m on 16th September: Martini Sergio (Italian) and Simone Moro
(Italian)
(d) The following members of the Spanish Everest - Tibet - Expedition '98 established Camp
IV at 7,500 m on 16th September:
Ms. Majesus Lagorey Spanish
Pasang Rinzee Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa
Kusang Dorjee Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa
(e) The American Everest - Tibet - Expedition '98 went up to ABC and then returned to Base
Camp.
(f) The French, Italian and Spanish teams planned to establish Camp V at 8,300 m. and then
return to ABC to prepare for their final attempt to the Summit. Here is how they
plan to make their summit attempt:
ABC to North Col 22 September,
to Camp IV
23 September
to Camp V
24 September
final attempt to the Summit on 25 September
(g) The weather is reported to be good with no strong wind in the area. Source:
Asian-Trekking, who is supporting all these North Side expedition except the Japanese Solo
Expedition (which has now left). Asian-Trekking can be found on the 98 Autumn, 1999 Everest Expeditions Links Page.
Several has asked about Craig's colorful updates on
www.skiingeverest.com .
Craig is known as a fun lovely character who likes to have fun, so just enjoy them !
However, it appears from the update above, he is not presently up to date on what is
happening higher on the mountain. We know he has been ill and were wondering why some were
reporting summit attempts were to occur the last week of September, but Craig was
reporting to be very low... Things are becoming clearer. If questions ask.
EverestNews.com
is receiving dispatches from Eric Simonson's 1998
IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. The latest dispatch is posted below. For all the
dispatches so far see The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team
page.
Special Report on the
International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000
Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu climb:
Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three
times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as
they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu.
Dispatch 6: 9/22/98
The IMG Cho Oyu team reports good progress this past week, despite a
turn in the weather. Leader Bob Sloezen tells us by satellite e mail from the 18,500
foot Advanced Base Camp (ABC) that it has been snowing heavily every
afternoon.
The team has been busy stocking the higher camps, and also working
in the area of ABC to clean up trash. The CTMA (China Tibet Mountaineering
Association) has hired Tibetan yak herders to go to ABC to help carry trash down from this
area. Team members bagged up bottles and cans for transport by yak back down to Base
Camp. From here the CTMA trucks the garbage out to Tingri.
ABC shows signs of being cleaner, as the expeditions conducted by
IGO 8000 members (including IMG) are now using shit barrels for toilets. This
has been required of expedition teams for several years at Everest Base Camp (Nepal side),
but is still voluntary at Cho Oyu. Hopefully other teams will follow the example of
the IGO 8000 teams to use shit barrels. The trouble remains that unscrupulous
operators charging rock bottom prices don't have the money budgeted to haul out their
garbage, let along shit barrels.
The IMG guides and Sherpas worked with members of several other IGO
8000 expeditions to put in fixed rope between Camp 1 and Camp 2. This part of the
climb is quite steep in places, requiring fixing.
Mark Smith is back at ABC, after having to go down to BC for a few
days to recover from illness. Most team members have now slept at Camp 1.
Henry Hamlin (68 years old!) and Ang Nima made it up the ice cliff, and returned to Camp
1. Heather Macdonald, Alan Arnette, and Borge Ousland went to Camp 2 to sleep.
Most of the other team members went to Camp 2 for a carry and have now descended to rest
at ABC, in preparation for going back to Camp 2 with the goal being to sleep at Camp 2 for
acclimatization. After that, members will descend to ABC for several rest days
before heading up on the summit bids.
Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition
8000 www.climbnet.com/img
Daily News: 9/21/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98: Little action on Everest, with climbers going
between lower camps and BC. Camps still being established.
It appears The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998
www.skiingeverest.com video
reports will be delayed until the first week of October.
EverestNews.com
is receiving updates from Eric Simonson's 1998
IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. For all the updates so far see
The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.
Autumn Everest 98: The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998
www.skiingeverest.com video
reports should begin soon. However, they have reported to EverestNews.com that one French
climber has pulmonary edema. Check their web site for all the details. It appears the
Japanese climber (Masa) has given up his solo attempt on the Hornbein direct route after
reaching 8,400 meters. A great effort by Masa !
The web sites of the week are: the official homepage of
Goran Kropp http://www.kroppaventyr.se/english/index.html
and the 23rd Annual Banff Mountain Film Festival: Nov 6-8 1998
http://www.banffcentre.ab.ca/CMC/film/film_index.html
Autumn Everest 98: The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998
www.skiingeverest.com is
due to begin their video reports on Sunday 9/20/98 ! Reports were not sent on 9/19/98 for
reasons unknown to EverestNews.com at this time.
Waldemar Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we
followed on K2 this year interview with EverestNews.com is below (9/16/98). The questions
were from the readers of EverestNews.com ! EverestNews.com is going to try to submit follow up
questions. Please submit your questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net .
EverestNews.com
is planning on keeping the North and South News on
this News Page during the Autumn Everest Season. The update time, as stated before, will
vary depending the News.
Autumn Everest 98: Climbers on both sides of Everest continue to move
up the mountain with Camp 1 and Camp 2 on both sides in the process of being established.
Summit attempt are still expected the last week of September and the first week of
October. However, as reported earlier, one Japanese climber was reported (on Monday) to be
at 8,000 meters and climbing up the Hornbein Direct route solo !
EverestNews.com
is receiving updates from Eric Simonson's 1998
IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. For all the updates so far see
The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.
Free Electronic Greeting Cards for the Planet has asked us to tell
you about their free electronic greetings cards site. They have a new section on movie
cards with a section on the new movie Everest at
http://www.123greetings.com/movies/everest/
Interesting !
The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com has
notified us that they seen Masa (The Japanese Climber, climbing solo) at 26,000 feet
climbing alone on the Hornbein Direct route. So we might have a Summit soon ! And what a
Summit it would be ! A solo of the Hornbein Direct route ! All of our best to Masa !!!
Check The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998
www.skiingeverest.com earlier
updates...
Daily News: 9/17/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98: Climbers on both sides of Everest continue to move
up the mountain with Camp 1 and Camp 2 on both sides in the process of being established.
Summit attempt are still expected the last week of September and the first week of
October. However, the first week of October is probably a better guess at this point. News
from Everest is somewhat thin.
The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com
has been updated and is posting what looks like a tentative plan for himself.
Waldemar Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we
followed on K2 this year interview with EverestNews.com is below. The questions were from the
readers of EverestNews.com ! EverestNews.com is going to try to submit follow up questions.
Please submit your questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net
.
EverestNews.com
Interview with Everest Climber Waldemar
Niclevicz:
Q .) Would like to ask W. Niclevicz, what makes his summit
failed on K2 this year. And, is he preparing a new climb at the Everest?
A .) NO ONE REACHED K2 SUMMIT THIS YEAR AND THE MAIN
REASON IS THE WEATHER. IT WAS REALLY BAD. IN TWO MONTHS WE HAD ONLY FOUR CONSECUTIVE DAYS
OF GOOD WEATHER, THERE WAS STRONG SNOW AND A LOT OF WIND. EVEN LIKE THAT WE MANAGED TO GET
AT APPROXIMATELY 8.000m. WE WERE THE ONLY TEAM TO REACH THIS ALTITUDE. BY NOW, I DON'T
HAVE PLANS TO CLIMB EVEREST AGAIN. I DID AN ATTEMPT BY NEPAL SIDE IN 91 AND REACHED
8.500m, AND DID THE SUMMIT BY TIBET IN 95. I BELIEVE I KNOW THIS MOUNTAIN WELL AND IT
WOULD BE MORE GRATEFUL TO GO INTO NEW PLACES.
Q.) Which climb has brought you the most satisfaction?
A.) I'VE DONE LOTS OF CLIMBS, SO IT'S VERY DIFFICULT TO
ANSWER THIS QUESTION. I HAVE A SPECIAL KINDNESS FOR THE ANDES MOUNTAINS, SPECIALLY FOR THE
WHITE RIDGE, WHERE THE HUASCARAN AND CHOPICALQUI CLIMBS ARE AMONGST THE MOST BEAUTIFUL
I'VE EVER DONE. BUT THE HIMALAYANS ARE ALSO VERY INVOLVING. I ALSO HAVE AMAZING MEMORIES
FROM EVEREST AND K2.
Q..) After spending a long time on the summit of Everest
this year, what does Waldemar think of the idea of spending the night there? What does
Waldemar think about Babu Chhiri Sherpa plans to sleep at Everest Summit?
A.) IT WOULD BE VERY INTERESTING TO SPEND THE NIGHT AT
8.848m TO REGARD SUNSET AND SUNRISE AT THE TOP OF EVEREST, BUT I BELIEVE IT'S TOO MUCH
RISKFUL. I SPENT 3 HOURS AND 10 MINUTES UP THERE, BUT ONLY BECAUSE THE DAY WAS
SPECTACULAR, SUNNY AND WITHOUT WIND. TO SPEND THE NIGHT AT THE TOP OF THIS BIG MOUNTAIN IS
AN UNNECESSARY RISK.
Q.) Tell us about Everest 95. Was he guided by AB? what did
happen on the way to the summit? Did anyone die? I read in The Climb that Henry Todd
(who's team Waldemar was on) has never lost a client, is this true? If so, why not
in his opinion?
A.) I WASN'T GUIDED BY ANATOLI BOUKREEV IN 95, BUT WE WERE
AT THE SAME EXPEDITION. WE WERE 13 CLIMBERS AND ME AND MY PARTNER FROM BRAZIL WERE THE
FIRST TO SUMMIT AT MAY 14th. ANATOLI, ANOTHER RUSSIAN CLIMBER AND AN ENGLISH WERE THE
SECOND ONES, AT MAY 17th. FORTUNATELY WE DIDN'T HAVE ANY TRAGEDY IN 95. NOBODY DIED. ABOUT
HENRY TODD, I DON'T KNOW HIS GUIDING CAREER ENOUGH TO ANSWER THE QUESTION.
Q.) Does Waldemar have an opinion on Everest 96 south side?
What does he feel about AB going down early? What does he feel happened wrong? Should
people be able to guide without O2? Did AB use O2 on Everest 95?
A.) IT WAS THE WORST TRAGEDY ON EVEREST HISTORY AND THE
MOST SAD IS TO KNOW THAT MOST OF THE VICTIMS WERE CLIENTS. IT HAPPENED AN EXCESS OF TRUST
OF THOSE CLIENTS IN THEIRS GUIDES, THE EXPEDITIONS' CHIEFS UNDERESTIMATED THE MOUNTAIN AND
DIDN'T REALIZED HOW DANGEROUS THE SITUATION WAS. ANATOLI MAY HAVE BEEN THE ONLY ONE TO
TAKE THE RIGHT DECISION AND I BELIEVE HE WOULD HAVE PREFERRED THAT EVERYONE SHOULD HAVE
GONE DOWN AT THAT HOUR. I THINK A CLIMBER CAN GUIDE WITHOUT USING ARTIFICIAL OXYGEN, AS
LONG AS HE DOESN'T LOOSE THE CONTROL OF THE SITUATION. I'M NOT SURE IF ANATOLI USED OR NOT
OXYGEN IN 95, I GUESS NO.
Q.) Was he on K2 with Alison Hargreaves ? If so what does
he think happened to her? Was she a great climber or just another climber?
A.) I WASN'T WITH ALISON AT K2. I MET HER IN 95 ON EVEREST.
SHE DID THE SUMMIT ONE DAY BEFORE ME. SHE WAS A VERY GOOD CLIMBER, VERY SYMPATHETIC, AND
SHOWED TO HAVE A LOT OF TRUST IN HERSELF.
Q.) The Italians said Heidi was not a very good climber on
their web site? Is this true? Was there a problem between the Italians and the Americans
on K2 this year? Were the Americans good enough to be on K2 this year?
A.) I THINK THE POINT ISN'T HEIDI'S ABILITIES , BUT
THE ITALIANS BELIEVED THEY WERE THE BEST, WHICH IS NOT UNTRUE, BECAUSE ALL OF THEM WERE
MOUNTAIN GUIDES. HEIDI SEEMED TO ME TO BE A VERY GOOD CLIMBER, ALWAYS FULL OF DISPOSAL AND
VERY ENCOURAGED. NO OTHER TEAM WAS SO WELL PREPARED TO FACE K2 AS OURS, SO THE ITALIANS
GOT DISCONTENTS WITH THE LACK OF COLLABORATION, BECAUSE ALL THE WORK OF FIXING ROPES WAS
DONE BY OURSELVES. I DIDN'T CARE ABOUT IT BECAUSE TO ME IT WAS A PLEASURE TO BREAK THE
TRAIL, EVEN IF THAT MEANT SPENDING MORE ENERGY.
Q.) How much difference does if make not having sherpas on
K2?
A.) THERE IS A LOT OF DIFFERENCE. IT WOULD BE MUCH MORE
EASY TO CLIMB K2 WITH SHERPA SUPPORT. THE BALTIS ARE NOT SKILLFUL CLIMBERS AND NOT SO GOOD
PORTERS. SHERPAS ARE STRONGER AND HAVE MORE RESPECT FOR THE MOUNTAINS. THERE IS ALSO A
DIFFERENT RELATIONSHIP WITH THE CLIMBERS WHO HIRE THEM.
Q.) What does he think about someone snowboarding or skiing
down Everest ?
A.) I THINK THE IDEA IS GREAT AND A BIG CHALLENGE.
Q.) How did he begin climbing? What does he think is
important for someone wanting to start climbing?
A.) I STARTED CLIMBING NATURALLY AFTER KNOWING MY FIRST
MOUNTAIN (MARUMBI PEAK, AT 1.547m, NEAR MY TOWN) AND BECOMING FRIEND WITH CLIMBERS. IT'S
VERY IMPORTANT TO START CLIMBING IN THE RIGHT WAY, TO AVOID VICIOUSNESS AND UNNECESSARY
RISKS. I RECOMMEND TO MAKE A GOOD COURSE WITH A PROFESSIONAL MOUNTAIN GUIDE BEFORE START
HANGING OVER ROPES BY YOURSELF. IT'S GOOD TO KEEP IN MIND THAT THE MOUNTAIN OFFERS
DANGERS AND IT'S NOT A PLACE FOR KIDDING. TO RESPECT ITS HUGE NATURE AND YOUR OWN LIMITS
IS NEVER ENOUGH.
Many Thanks to guta nascimento, for her assistance !!!
EverestNews.com
is planning on keeping the North and South
Side News on
this News Page during the Autumn Everest Season. The update time, as stated before, will
vary depending the News.
EverestNews.com
is receiving dispatches from Eric Simonson's 1998
IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. The latest dispatch is posted below. For all the
dispatches so far see The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team
page.
Special Report on the
International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000
Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu climb:
Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three
times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as
they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu.
Dispatch 5: 9/14/98
The IMG Cho Oyu team has now established Camp 1 at about 20,600
feet. The route to Camp 1 is several hours of very rugged hiking up the moraine and
glacier, then several more hours climbing up a steep and rocky spur to the Camp.
Members are now moving up to sleep at Camp 1. The Sherpas have moved higher, and
have put in Camp 2 at 23,300'. Some fixed rope has also been installed on steep
sections of the route in between, including the ice cliff.
The Route between Camp 1 and Camp 2 is the most technical part of
the route, with several sections of cramponing. The ice cliff is about 200 feet
high, and is in the 70-80 degree range. Once the fixed ropes are installed and steps
chopped, it is reasonable. To get down, it is necessary to rappel with a pack.
Over the next few days members will sleep at Camp 1 and start
carrying some loads to Camp 2. The weather has stabilized and the conditions are
good.
Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition
8000 www.climbnet.com/img
The Great Swiss Climber, Albert Eggler (85) has died in a climbing
accident. Mr. Eggler led the first successful summit expedition of Lhotse (1956) and the
some of the early parties (2 parties, 4 climbers) to Summit Everest in 1956.
Autumn Everest 98: Climbers on both sides of Everest are moving up
the mountain ! Camps are being established and loads are being carried. Summit attempt
still expected the last week of September and the first week of October. Still no news on
the Japanese climbers on the North Side ...
The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com
has an interesting update on the French performing a snowboarding "test".
Autumn Everest 98: www.sport.com has updated their
web site and are now reporting that the French climbers are now planning on climbing the
normal route and are still planning on snowboarding down from the summit but the route
might now change.
Web Site of the week is:
http://www.wielicki-group.top.pl/himalaya/wielicki2e.html
. Krzysztof Wielicki (Poland) is the fifth person to reach the Summit of all 14 8000 meter
peaks. He also made is the first winter ascent of Everest (8848m.) 1980 -
(with Cichy). Submit those web sites to : everestnews2004@adelphia.net .
EverestNews.com
is planning on keeping the North and South
Side News on
this News Page during the Autumn Everest Season. The update time, as stated before, will
vary depending the News.
EverestNews.com
is receiving dispatches from Eric Simonson's 1998
IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. The latest dispatch is posted below. For all the
dispatches so far see The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team
page.
Special Report on the
International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000
Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu climb:
Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three
times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as
they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu.
Dispatch 4: 9/12/98
The IMG team has now established Advanced Base Camp. The yak
team dumped the loads on a rocky site at approximately 18,500 feet. This site is
located about two miles northeast of Nangpa La, the pass over the Himalaya (to
Khumbu). Below ABC, climbers turn east from the trade route, and head up a side
glacier to the ABC which is located on a rugged moraine. Because it is uphill and
out of the way, traders and refugees do not come up to the ABC area, though it is not
uncommon to see them further down the valley. From the site of ABC, it is possible
to watch the yak caravans of traders going over the pass.
At the ABC the team has erected a large kitchen tent, a very large
Mountain Hardware Satellite Dome for a mess tent, and many smaller storage and sleeping
tents. In addition, the team has established their solar power system (five 20 watt
panels going to a voltage regulator, then to a large deep cycle 12volt battery).
This system powers the Inmarsat C satellite system, as well as the VHF radios which link
the ABC to BC, as well as make it possible to communicate with the climbers on the
mountain.
The team completed their puja ceremony at ABC. This Buddhist
ritual is important for the Sherpas and a lot of fun for the team. After a series of
chants and prayers, prayer flags are set out, juniper burned, rice and tsampa thrown
into the air, and many toasts made and consumed by the team!
Now the work begins. Many loads need to be carried to Camp 1,
and everyone will work at doing this. These carries are difficult, especially before
everyone is fully acclimatized. Nonetheless, this is the best way to get
acclimatized...carrying loads!
Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition
8000 www.climbnet.com/img
The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 www.skiingeverest.com live
video will begin September 20th.
Autumn Everest 98: Climbers are moving up the mountain ! Summit
attempts are now expected the last week of September (pretty soon) or the first week of
October !
Autumn Everest 98: Sherpa Team featuring Kaji Sherpa (33), who as we
reported earlier, will attempt to break the speed record on climbing Everest this Autumn,
will be assisted on his team by the following Sherpa climbers: Tashi Tshering Sherpa,
Tashi Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa and Tshering Sherpa. We also understand the expedition name is
: The Tuborg Speed Everest Expedition 98.
OTT Expeditions who pioneered the first English and Polish ascents of
Everest's North Ridge, has announced plans to attempt Everest by the North Side in Spring
99. OTT is led by guide Jon Tinker. Their web site will be added to the 99 Everest
Expedition links page soon.
Autumn Everest 98: The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998
www.skiingeverest.com has
reported to EverestNews.com that the weather is still clear on Everest ! The Italians on the
North side are moving up the mountain. See www.skiingeverest.com for more
details on the North Side.
Damage from the earthquake appears, based on the limited number of
news reports, to have been limited to the remote areas of Nepal and China. However as you
know, news from these areas is not readily available, therefore it could be several days
or weeks before news is released.
EverestNews.com
is receiving updates from Eric Simonson's 1998
IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. For all the updates so far see The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.
Autumn Everest 98: The weather is clearing on Everest ! Still no news
on the two Japanese climbers on the North Side (Masa, the climber and his wife) after the
earthquake.
EverestNews.com
is receiving updates from Eric Simonson's 1998
IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. For all the updates so far see
The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team page.
The first set of interview questions have been sent to Waldemar
Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we followed on K2 this year. Submit
your questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net
.
Autumn Everest 98: It has been reported to EverestNews.com
that a Sherpa
Team featuring Kaji Sherpa (33), who has reached the summit of Everest four times, will
attempt to break the speed record on climbing Everest this Autumn ! The current record is
by Marc Bartard (French in 22 hours and 29 minutes). The expedition is called Everest
Expedition 98. Kaji also has reached the summit of four other 8000 meter peaks. Four other
Sherpa will join Kaji in his attempt.
Web Site of the week is:
http://www.montblanconline.fr/pagesa/indeux.htm.
Where there is a story to call to bar Mont Blanc climbers after 15 die. Submit those web
sites to : everestnews2004@adelphia.net
.
EverestNews.com
has received a number of good questions for Waldemar
Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we followed on K2 this year. Submit
your questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net
.
Autumn Everest 98: The weather is quite bad with heavy snow falling.
Still no news on the two Japanese climbers (Masa, the climber and his wife) after the
earthquake.
Waldemar Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we
followed on K2 this year is willing to give an interview with EverestNews.com. He is also
willing to take questions from our readers !!!. Please submit your questions to
everestnews2004@adelphia.net . Feel free
to ask what you wish. Waldemar will be happy to try to answer your questions.
At the end of the Matthew Randall's story on the Seattle
Candlelighters Web Site you will see a picture of Craig John on the Summit of Everest this
year with Matthew's flag. Just go to www.seacandlelighters.org and then
go to "Candles" to see Matthew's story plus some of his friends. There are lots
of Matthew pictures too!
Everest Autumn 98 has been another wild 48 hours with a major 5-6
earthquake hitting eastern Nepal on Friday. Major avalanches on Everest !
Everest Autumn South Side 98: One very good source in Nepal reported
to EverestNews.com: "We have had no news from the South Side too. I believe everyone is
OK on south side. We have no any news so far of any adverse effect on other climbers
on other mountains. The only thing we know is that a lake/glacier on the other side of
Lukla (near Mera Peak) burst the same day the earthquake occurred. As a result a
number of bridges including some houses have been washed away in Khumbu killing some
villagers. We don't know yet whether it was the impact of the earthquake. "
Everest Autumn North Side 98: The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998
www.skiingeverest.com has reported to EverestNews.com that they are
concerned about the two Japanese climbers (Masa, the climber and his wife) after the
earthquake. Should know today or Monday if they are OK. See www.skiingeverest.com
for more details on the North Side.
Cho Oyu News: The President of Romanian Mountaineering Club, Mr.
Constantin Lacatusu, who holds the record of being the 1st Romanian climber on 8000 m peak
in
1992 and the 1st Romanian Climber on the summit of Mt. Everest in 1995, is taking part in
the 1st Romanina Solo Expedition to Mt. Cho-Oyu - Autumn '98. Mr. Constantin Lacatusu
departed Kathmandu for Zangmu on his way to the Base Camp of Mt. Cho-Oyu on 2nd September
1998. Please see Eric Simonson's, International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000 report
on 9/5/98 for the most recent news from Cho Oyu.
A major 5.6 earthquake has hit eastern Nepal on Friday. The epicenter
is reportedly about 100 miles east of Kathmandu near Chamlang. Chamlang is southeast of
Everest. Major avalanches on Everest ! Most climbers luckily at BC or ABC, concern
mainly on South Side if anyone would have been in the Khumbu Icefall.
Daily News: 9/5/98 Report
EverestNews.com
is receiving updates from Eric Simonson's 1998
IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu expedition. The latest update is posted below. For all the
updates so far see The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team
page.
Special Report on the
International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000
Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu climb:
Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three
times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as
they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu.
Update 3: 9/5/98
The Cho Oyu team reports by satellite e mail that all is well at
Base Camp. They have spent the last several days acclimatizing with day hikes, and
re-packing food and equipment into yak loads. The yaks (20 of them) have arrived at
Base Camp, and they will be starting up tomorrow with some of the team, and Sherpas, to
establish ABC at !8,500'. The total distance from BC to ABC is nearly 15
miles, much of it rugged hiking on rocks and boulders adjacent to lateral moraines of the
Gyabrag Glacier. This is the same route for much of the way as the Nangpa La trade
route to Khumbu. On the first trip up the team will stay at an intermediate camp at
about 17,000 feet. Later, if people go back and forth between BC and ABC, they
can do it in one day. They first time up however, when everyone is not fully
acclimatized, they will take two days.
The yaks are strong this time of year, since they have been grazing
on fresh grass all summer, so they can carry about 60 pounds on each side without too much
problem. The plan is for the yaks to return to BC in a few days and bring up some
additional supplies. Several members who wanted to stay down a few extra days for
additional acclimatization, will go up on the second yak wave.
The heavy rains from the past season have left the mountain covered
in a lot of snow, reports expedition leader Bob Sloezen. Also, Bob
reports that co-leader Heather Macdonald and team member Jason Dittmer saved the life of a
Spanish climber yesterday. Apparently this man had come quickly to Base Camp with
improper acclimatization. He became deathly sick with cerebral edema. Heather
administered injections of dexamethasome, put him on oxygen, and the American team pumped
him in their Gamow (hyperbaric) bag. Then they assisted him in transportation to
Tingri. It sounds like the Spanish team had neither their own jeep, oxygen, or Gamow
bag available to them, and that this man would have died otherwise.
This points out one of the big problems with climbing in Tibet...it
is so high, there is no where to go to get down lower. Once you get sick, you WILL
die if you can't get a jeep ride to lower altitude. The oxygen, Gamow, drugs, etc
are great, but they won't stop the edema once it really kicks in...they just buy you
time. Descent or death are the only options.
Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition
8000 www.climbnet.com/img
Autumn Everest 98: Rain, Rain, go away ! No movement up the
mountain is expected for at least a few days.
Dutton Books is expected to release Within Reach : My Everest Story
By Mark Pfetzer and Jack Galvin. Mark Pfetzer was on Henry Todd Expedition on Everest 96.
EverestNews.com is being told the story is about the youngest person to climb (?) (attempt ?)
Everest (Mark) and his VERSION of the situation in 96 !!! Who would have guessed it
! The information available on the book is sketchy just like Everest 96. Amazon says , Not
Yet Available. List Price: $16.99, Our Price: $11.89, You Save: $5.10 (30%)
EverestNews.com
will let you know when you can order Within Reach from
Amazon. We all researching Mark.
Waldemar Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we
followed on K2 this year is willing to give an interview with EverestNews.com. He is also
willing to take questions from our readers !!!. Please submit your questions to
everestnews2004@adelphia.net . Feel free
to ask what you wish. Waldemar will be happy to try to answer your questions.
Autumn Everest 98: Climbers are basically staying at BC with bad
weather. No movement up the mountain is expected for at least a few days.
Waldemar Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we
followed on K2 this year is willing to give an interview with EverestNews.com. He is also
willing to take questions from our readers !!!. Please submit your questions to
everestnews2004@adelphia.net . Feel free
to ask what you wish. Waldemar will be happy to try to answer your questions.
The ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998 web site
featuring Climber Craig Calonica has been updated. Source: John Sheridan Reed
Chris Bonington is on his latest Expedition to Sepu Kangri (6,950m)
in Tibet. Chris update's will be posted on the web site
http://www.bonington.com/sepuweb2/index.htm
Waldemar Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we
followed on K2 this year is willing to give an interview with EverestNews.com. He is also
willing to take questions from our readers !!!. Please submit your questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net . Questions can be
about this year K2 expedition, and you might ask about other climbs or climbers you are
interesting in, i.e. Waldemar summit of Everest when Anatoli Boukreev was with him.
Matthew Randall's story is FINALLY on the Seattle Candlelighters Web
Site! Just go to www.seacandlelighters.org
and then go to "Candles" to see Matthew's story plus some of his friends. There
are lots of Matthew pictures too!
Daily News: 9/1/98 Report
Waldemar Niclevicz, the first Brazilian to climb Everest, who we
followed on K2 this year is willing to give an interview with EverestNews.com. He is also
willing to take questions from our readers !!!. Please submit your questions to
everestnews2004@adelphia.net . Questions
can be about this year K2 expedition, and you might ask about other climbs or climbers you
are interesting in, i.e. Waldemar summit of Everest when Anatoli Boukreev was with him.
The Everest Autumn 98 teams are setting up base camps, and getting
things in order to begin their attempts on Everest this Autumn.
