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EverestNews.com will
feature full dispatches from Adventure
Consultants in Spring 2000. Adventure Consultants
is a world renowned expedition climbing company with a legacy of ascents to the
more remote and wild peaks on our planet. Quality service, complete commitment
and success are the hallmarks of Adventure Consultants, as are Guy
Cotter and the qualified
guides and staff who are the driving force behind Adventure Consultants
expeditions.
Dispatch One: Dates:
March 29 to May 22 2000
Expedition Leader: Guy
Cotter (New Zealand), Climbers: Yukimitsu Okubo (Japan), Andy Hebson (USA),
Mountain Guide: David Hiddleston (New Zealand), Expedition Doctor(s): Jim Litch
(USA) and Rachel Bishop (UK)
Sherpas (Nepal):
Expedition Sirdar - Ang Tshering, Climbing Sirdar - Ang Dorje, Climbing Sherpas
- Chuldim (Khumjung), Mingma Tenzing (Thame), Pemba Nurbu (Khunde) Pasang
Tenzing (Phortse), and Tshering Palden (Makalu). Cooks - Chhongba & Dawa;
Cook boys - Kanchha or real name Tukbadur (Bacham, Solu) and Nima; Camp II Cook
- Chhuldim (Kunde)
Everest Base Camp Trek
2000 group: Dan and Cherry Gallagher (USA), Jessica Stevenson (Australia),
Cameron Martin (Australia), Charlie Yeagle (USA), Hamish Emerson (New Zealand),
Peter Hay (New Zealand).
During the upcoming pre-monsoon season
Adventure Consultants is operating its ninth expedition to Mount Everest, via
the South Col from Nepal. The objective of the expedition is to make a safe and
successful ascent of the mountain and for everyone to return safely to base
camp.
Bookmark this page and check back in
with us over the next 7-8 weeks for regular updates from the expedition which
will be posted here. The expedition itinerary for climbing Mount Everest is as
follows;
March 29 Arrive Kathmandu,
Nepal
March 31 Final briefing from Tourism Ministry
April 1 Fly to Lukla
April 2 - 10 Trek to Base Camp
April 11 - 30 Establish camps and acclimatize
May 1 - 4 Rest at Base Camp
May 5 - 12 Summit Climb
May 15 Clean up and depart Base Camp
May 19 Fly from Lukla back to Kathmandu
May 20 - 22 Depart for home
Everest Summiters with Adventure Consultants
Here is a list of the climbers who have
reached the top of Everest with Adventure Consultants during their expeditions. Adventure Consultants
have made a world record tally of 54 ascents of the mountain, with climbers from
10 nationalities reaching the summit.
Spring 1990: Rob Hall, NZ, Gary
Ball, NZ, Peter Hillary, NZ, Rudy van Snick, Belgium -First Belgian climber,
Mickey Reutersward, Sweden -First Swedish climber, Oskar Kihlborg, Sweden, Apa
Sherpa, Nepal
Spring 1992: Rob Hall, NZ, Gary
Ball, NZ, Guy Cotter, NZ, Ned Gillette, USA, Randall Danta, USA, Doug Mantle,
USA, Doron Erel, Israel -First Israeli climber, Ingrid Baeyens, Belgium - First
Belgian woman climber, Cham Yick Kai, Hong Kong -First Hong Kong climber, Sonam
Tshering Sherpa, Nepal, Apa Sherpa, Nepal, Ang Dawa Sherpa, Nepal, Ang Dorge
Sherpa, Nepal, Tashi Sherpa, Nepal.
Spring 1993: Rob Hall, NZ, Jan
Arnold, NZ, John Gluckman, NZ, Veikka Gustafsson, Finland -First Finnish climber,
Ang Dorje Sherpa, Nepal, Ang Chumbi Sherpa, Nepal, Norbu Sherpa, Nepal.
Spring 1994: Rob Hall, NZ -
First Westerner to summit 4 times, Ed Viesturs, USA, Hall Wendel, USA, David
Taylor, USA, David Keaton, USA, Erling Kagge, Norway -First to reach Everest and
two Poles, Hellmut Seitzl, Germany - At 56 years, second oldest person, Ekkert
Gundelach, Germany, Ang Dorje Sherpa, Nepal, Norbu Sherpa, Nepal, Nima
Gombu Sherpa, Nepal.
Spring 1996: Rob Hall, NZ -
First Westerner to summit 5 times, Andy Harris, NZ, Mike Groom, Australia, John
Krakauer, USA, Doug Hansen, USA, Yasuko Namba, Japan - Second Japanese woman to
summit Ang Dorje Sherpa, Nepal, Norbu Sherpa, Nepal.
Their words: " Note
- The tragic events of this expedition have been well publicized in recent
years. On the descent from the summit the expedition was caught in a storm. Rob
Hall was trapped on the South Summit with Doug Hansen and subsequently both
died. Mountain Guide Andy Harris and climber Yasuko Namba also died, Andy was
last seen returning to the South Summit to give aid to Rob Hall. A full account
of the climb can be read in Colin Monteath's book 'Hall and Ball - Kiwi
Mountaineers'. Guy Cotter and David Hiddleston assisted from Everest base camp
with the rescue of the 15 surviving members. Guy subsequently took over the
reins of Adventure Consultants in June 1996.
Spring 1997: Guy Cotter, NZ, Ed
Viesturs, USA, David Carter, USA, Tashi Tenzing, Australia -Grandson of Tenzing
Norgay, Veikka Gustafsson, Finland - Oxygenless ascent, Ang Dorje Sherpa, Nepal,
Mingma Tshering Sherpa, Nepal.
Dispatch Two:
March 29 to April 4 2000 -
Trekking to Everest Base Camp
The Adventure Consultants Everest
Expedition 2000 is underway! Several months of organizing and planning
culminated in Guy Cotter arriving in Nepal on March 15 with his family. They
were met by Ang Tshering, the Expedition Sirdar, and after several days of
details, meetings, un-packing, re-packing, shopping and socializing they were
able to depart for Lukla and begin the trek to Khumjung. By March 24 they had
arrived in the village and the Cotter family were able to settle in to their
lodge accommodation which will be their home for the coming weeks while Guy is
away at Everest Base Camp. Guy continued onto Base Camp arriving on March 30 to
meet up with Ang Dorje, Ang Tshering, Chuldim and Chongba who had already
carried on ahead in order to set up the Adventure Consultants base camp.
Dispatch Two: March 29 to April 4
2000 - Trekking to Everest Base Camp
The Adventure
Consultants Everest Expedition 2000 is underway! Several months of organizing
and planning culminated in Guy Cotter arriving in Nepal on March 15 with his
family. They were met by Ang Tshering, the Expedition Sirdar, after several days
of details, meetings, un-packing, re-packing, shopping and socializing they were
able to depart for Lukla and begin the trek to Khumjung. By March 24 they had
arrived in the village and the Cotter family was able to settle in to their
lodge accommodation which will be their home for the coming weeks while Guy is
away at Everest Base Camp. Guy continued onto Base Camp arriving on March 30 to
meet up with Ang Dorje, Ang Tshering, Chuldim and Chongba who had already
carried on ahead in order to set up the Adventure Consultants base camp.
Climber Andy Hebson
arrived in Kathmandu on March 22 and promptly flew to Lukla to being his acclimatization. He has mainly been staying around the village of Kunde and
catching up with his friends Jim Litch and Rachel Bishop at Kunde Hospital,
after having climbed with them on the Adventure Consultants Cho Oyu Expedition
in 1999. Guide David Hiddleston arrived in Kathmandu on March 27 and the rest of
the group flew in on March 29. After a day of sightseeing and shopping in the
wonderful markets of Kathmandu the group flew to Lukla on March 31. David
commented from the Garuda Hotel in Thamel, Kathmandu on Thursday March 30
"...we've got a really fun bunch here, everyone's looking forward to
getting on the trail, there's going to be a lot of hilarity - there has been
already!"
After a night in Phukding,
the group continued onto Jorsales at the entrance to the National Park, and then
climbed the big hill to Namche Bazar on Sunday April 2. Guy had returned back
down the valleys to meet them in Namche along with Andy Hebson. They went for an
acclimatization trek on April 3 from Namche and then moved up to the village of
Khumjung today, April 4 where they are all expected for dinner at Ang Tshering's
Lodge!
Guy Cotter phoned in from
Khumjung to report on the expedition's progress. He said "it's
been a very light winter so far and there isn't much snow up high, in fact the
lower peaks look out of condition but it should be OK higher up. Up
at Base Camp there are very few other westerners in residence so far. Some will
be arriving by now and the rest are on their way up. Our base camp is
established and Ang Dorje has been up to Camp II carrying loads, only four teams
have got to Camp II. The icefall is in good condition and has been organized by
Arun Treks this year. There's been some early snowfalls but the weather has been
great, perfect, for the past week or so. Andy's been running around the hills
above Kunde and when I met up with Yuki he was looking strong, they're all due
up here today and we'll have dinner together tonight."
The team intends to
progress steadily towards base camp over the next few days and if all going well
they intend to walk to Deboche on April 5, spend a couple of days in Pheriche
and then go to Lobuche on April 8. After an ascent of Kala Patar they plan to
reach base camp by April 11.
Reports on the trek and
expedition won't be daily, as all the Adventure Consultants communications
equipment is set up at base camp, but check in from mid-April onwards for
progress reports on the climbing. Guy
commented that "every
lodge is full of people with laptops on their knees!"
Dispatch Three: Arrival
at Base Camp Guy
Cotter made contact via satellite phone from Everest Base Camp this morning and
reported, "we arrived last night and everything is going well, the weather
has been fantastic overall, clear every morning and even some afternoons".
He said that "Yuki and Andy are both going strong and in good spirits, the
trekkers enjoyed sunset at Kalapatar last night and will now spend 3 nights at
BC sharing in the atmosphere". He noted that many expeditions were now in
Base Camp and related the number of people appeared to be similar to that of the
1993 Spring season. After a few
days of rest combined with equipment preparation, the AC climbing team will
begin their acclimatization, traveling through the Khumbu icefall to Camp One
and back.
Dispatch Four: Dispatch April 13th from
Everest Base Camp:
Guy Cotter reports in from the
Adventure Consultants Everest Base Camp:
"After a brief snow shower
last night a clear dawn saw David, Andy and Yuki depart for the notorious Khumbu
icefall for the first time, heralding the beginning of their Mt Everest ascent.
After almost one month in the country acclimatizing and setting up the base camp
the team is now coming to terms with the actual ascent which is the culmination
of over a year of planning and preparation. Yukimitsu has been climbing Mt Fuji
in Japan once a week in difficult winter conditions and Andy has been running
and weight training regularly. For both this has been a concerted effort to keep
in condition after having been on Cho Oyu (8201m) last October/November.
Adventure Consultants were the only successful guiding operation on Cho Oyu in
the Post Monsoon as all the other commercial teams had insufficient confidence
to deal with the difficult snow conditions. AC guides Jim Litch and Dean Staples
being snow safety experts assessed the conditions well and summited with the
group whilst all the other teams arrived back into Kathmandu!
10:45am.... David Hiddleston
has just radioed in from the top of the icefall 5 hours after leaving BC.
"We are the top of the icefall, the weather is good and we are going to
head back down to base camp now" When asked about the condition of the
climbing group he said 'Yuki is going very strong and racing across the ladders.
Andy is doing well also but may have a bit of a cold, so not feeling
100%"
My response from the warmth of
the BC communication tent! (with a strong cup of Venus coffee in hand)
"Very good Dave, it sounds like you are all doing well. 5 hours to the top
of the icefall on the first journey up is quite a good time so well done all of
you, I'll have a brew on for you when you get down so give us a call when you
get close to the bottom" "Good one Guy (Dave responds) talk to you
soon, out"
Other news, the trekking group
of Jessica, Peter, Cameron & Charlie (Dan & Cherry departed from
Khumjung earlier) left today for Pheriche having had three nights as guests of
the expedition team. In the words of Peter Hay, "This has been a real eye
opener for me seeing how it all operates and how much work goes into an Everest
ascent. The staff here have been great and I'd certainly recommend that other
people join your team for treks or climbs, the attention to quality is
impressive!"
So
there we have it, the climb has begun, more updates coming..."
Dispatch April 15th: Life at Base Camp
Base camp appears like
a small town, but no attempt at town planning! Looking down from above there are
splashes of color; blue, yellow and orange randomly grouped together.
There is a pattern of sorts. Each team has a large cook tent, many of them built
from stone with tarpaulin stretched across for a roof. Close by is a
dining tent. Some are large frame tents, some domes, some stone buildings like
the kitchen. Associated with each are a myriad of small tents fighting for flat
areas on the moraine amidst rocky piles and icy lakes. The tents from one
group merge with the next. To wind a trail between these groups is a
struggle of loose rock, melting ice and a disturbance of privacy. The Adventure
Consultants camp follows the same pattern. We have a large and ever busy
kitchen. The work counter is built from stone yet resembles a busy
restaurant. Five kerosene stoves sit amidst pots and pans, plate racks and
stacks of herbs and spices. It's warm, so is a communal meeting area
always busy with Sherpas drinking tea and exchanging news. Our three cooks
sleep on the benches at night.
The dining tent sits
next door, a bright yellow frame tent. Inside is a home from home.
Flowers and tablecloths on the table, a stereo on the back wall and a limitless
selection of drinks and snacks. Even vegemite for the Kiwis far from home!
A globe hangs from the ceiling so we can at least plan the route to a warm
Indonesian island......
Additionally there are
two larger tents. The communication tent is a technological treat.
With power from three solar panels we run a satellite phone, fax and computer
with e mail. A high tech radio system links base camp with the four camps on the
mountain. Daily contact with home is no problem. The other is the
medical tent, ready but hopefully unnecessary.
The members sleep in
orange Macpac Spectrum XPD tents creating a cozy haven of privacy. Last and not
least are the facilities. There is also a shower tent with a shower bag, a
delight on a warm morning. Many nationalities are represented here from
Andalucia to Yugoslavia. Their flags fly from their camps and meetings between
the various expedition leaders to determine strategies and cooperative work on
the mountain represent a mini United Nations. Warm
mornings turn to snow showers by mid afternoon sending chilled expedition
members to the shelter of their tents for an afternoon nap or a good book only
to reconvene for the evening meal before the long chilly night.
Beginning about 4.00am
kerosene stoves fire up to begin the process of breakfast for climbers and
Sherpas heading up the mountain. By 5.00am there is the sound of boots on gravel
as members of the many teams here head up the Khumbu icefall before the heat of
the day makes travel unpleasant.
It's a constant turn
around as loads and climbers come and go from the mountain ferrying loads to the
higher camps in preparation for the summit bid in some 4 weeks time.
Guy Cotter
Dispatch April 16th: Team at camp One
News from Guy Cotter and Dr
Rachel Bishop at Everest BC
David, Yuki and Andy
arose at 4.30 for breakfast after a snowy night slowly broke to expose the odd
star and promise of a fine morning. Away at 5.00am they were headed for the
icefall an camp 1(6000m). Our 5 climbing Sherpas lead by Ang Dorje Sherpa left
at the same time to deposit loads of food, tentage and other at camp 1 to be
utilized by the climbing team as they stay at the higher elevations to
acclimatize themselves to the thinner atmosphere. The plan is to stay at C1 for
2 nights then move onto CII at 6500m for three nights. The Sherpa team will
return to BC daily to be in position to carry another load up the mountain the
following day.
6.30am. A radio call
from David informs us here at BC that Andy is still feeling weak from a mild
illness from two days previous and instead of thrashing himself has decided to
stay at BC for another days rest and will join the group tomorrow. He arrives
back 7.00am feeling fine but just not quite strong enough to today.
9.40am. David radios
from Camp One (C1). He and Yuki are at the camp site and getting ready to rest
for the next two night before moving to Camp Two (C2). All ok and feeling
strong!
Yesterday a meeting
was convened at Henry Todd's camp for discussions about rope fixing above C 2.
The group consisted mostly of the commercial operators and good headway was made
in regard to responsibilities for rope fixing. Weather forecasting was discussed
and it was concluded that Guy Cotter would be the information conduit for
weather and to ensure the continued communication between the groups. Radio
frequencies were shared to ensure communication in case of mishap and protocols
were discussed to ensure friends and family receive first hand information. In
previous years there has been some abhorrent behavior from individuals trying to
feed the media with news of any disaster or calamity before this has been
reported through the correct channels. Whilst it was recognized that we couldn't
stop other teams on the mountain from making these reports we felt unanimously
that we need not all act like
parasites. The worst case of
this here was when an individual recorded radio communications between a dying
climber and his wife and then sold the tapes to a book writer.
Dispatch:
4/17/2000 Movement of the AC Team
Dave
and Yuki are at C1 today, resting. Andy and Ang Dorje left for C1. this morning
and 4 Sherpa started out for C2 with loads, however a collapse in the icefall
below C1 delayed the Sherpas for an hour or so while they found another way
through. Many people turned back from the collapsed area, while our boys
eventually found an alternative route and then stopped for milk tea with Dave
and Yuki before carrying on.
10.55am Chhuldim
has just called from CII to say they have arrived at Camp II to set up a tent
and deposit loads before returning to BC. Weather is fine today after a
beautiful full moon last night. Other teams are moving loads to CIII today and
fixing of ropes through to South Col should commence over the next few
days.
Guy
Cotter
Dispatch:
4/21/2000
Andy came down to
BC from Camp 2 yesterday as he was having problems acclimatizing to the higher
altitude of Camp 2. Dr Rachel Bishop is assessing his condition and he is
resting up at BC for the next few days. Dave and Yuki are climbing towards Camp
3 today then Camp 2 tonight and BC tomorrow.
Dispatch:
4/22/2000 Team
returned from base of Lhotse Face
Yuki and Dave back in BC at
11.00 am from Camp 2 after walking to the base of the Lhotse face (7000m)
yesterday. They arrived back into Camp 2 tired but feeling good. An early start
this morning I saw them at Camp 1 in about 1hr and a couple of hours later safe
and sound at BC. A collapse in the icefall delayed a lot of Sherpas going up
this morning but was fixed by the time Dave and Yuki came down.
Both Dave and Yuki are fine
although Yuki has a slight cold but a few days rest at BC will see them
fortified for the next phase which takes them to Camp 2 and after another rest
day to Camp 2 to sleep. Andy is still feeling rough and will need to descend to
lower altitudes to recover from the effects of high altitude.
Base Camp is the usual bustle
of activity with climbers regularly coming and going from the mountain whilst
those of us in support in BC have an afternoon soccer match to keep us amused
and out of breath!
Guy
Dispatch: AC
Team rested up and heading to Camp III 4/27/2000
After several days of
rest, the AC team have
departed BC at 5.00am this morning which seems to be the program for so many of
the expeditions today as there are about 50 people in the icefall.
The plan is to stay at CII tonight and tomorrow night, then move up to
CIII for the next night. The WX forecast predicts the jet stream winds to hit
the mountain on the 29th, the same night Yuki and Dave expect to be there, so
their arrival may be delayed!
Jim Litch arrived
yesterday to replace Dr Rachel Bishop as our base camp doctor,
Jim has been a guide for AC, summiting Cho Oyu and Shishapangma in 1999. Jim is
also an Everest veteran from an ascent via the Nth Ridge and is recognized as
one of the worlds leading high altitude doctors. We
have a system in place so that in the event any AC expedition members experience
any problems they will receive immediate attention,
whereas most other expeditions are forced to enquire around camp to see if any
available doctor will see patients. After all, our resources and infra
structure are in place to ensure the best advantage for our team, and the well
being of all!
Guy
Dispatch:
29th
April AC Team acclimatization trip to Camp III
The lads left today for CII
and I've just heard they got in about 12.30pm. Yuki is going quite well and they
are both tired and thirsty and intend to spend the afternoon hydrating. After a
rest day tomorrow they will travel to CIII (7400m) where they will spend the
night to acclimatize to the thin air pressure at that height. After coming down
to base camp for a few days rest they will be in a position to make a summit
attempt somewhere in the first two weeks of May. BC doctor Rachel Bishop left
for Kunde Hospital today whilst husband Dr Jim Litch is now in residence with
the team here at BC. Adventure Consultants are the only expedition team to
employ specialist high altitude doctors to ensure the well being of their team
members.
'Home away from home!' ...
Adventure Consultants - Everest Base Camp The
side lines ... The
worlds highest soccer match? Each
afternoon climbers from all over the globe congregate in the Khumbu
icefall on the flanks of Mt Everest for an hour of "lung busting
effort" as described by Guy. "At 5,300m (17,500') the thin air makes
running extremely hard work so it is good cardiovascular training for our team
of climbers. It is also a great way to spend some recreational time with
climbers from all over the world who like to get out for a workout and have a
bit of fun".
Guy
Dispatch: 7th May - AC Expedition
Team Update
Now
six weeks into the Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition, Guy Cotter reports
back on the last weeks' activities.
The
last week...
Due
to the intensity of climbing at these very high elevations Andy
Hebson has reluctantly had to leave the expedition as result of a chest
infection. Andy
began suffering on the way to camp 2 so returned to base camp where he was
consulted by specialist high altitude Doctor,
Jim Litch, employed by Adventure Consultants, and it was decided that he
should return to a lower altitude to allow his condition to improve. With no
immediate sign of improvement, in the interests of Andy's health and well being,
it was decided that he should not return to higher altitudes. Guy said "I
have admired Andy's enthusiasm and commitment to achieving his goal, however, as
disappointing as it is, this situation is a reality of high altitude climbing
and health problems can effect any one at any given time".
Being
the only commercially led expedition to employ altitude specialist doctors
Adventure Consultants is able to avoid more severe medical complications by
recognizing and dealing with problems before they become potentially fatal.
Members of other teams have come to be treated by Dr Litch through shear
desperation once they realize their own expedition leaders have provided no
medical support, a result these expedition operators wanting to secure clientele
through offering attractive pricing instead of expeditions with the necessary
support to offer their clients a reasonable degree of safety.
Expedition
guide - Dave and expedition member Yuki, continued with their acclimatization
through to Camp 3, and upon returning to Base Camp, Yuki spoke with Guy and
expressed that he hadn't felt 100% on this trip. He felt he had achieved
"his Everest" this time, and with Guy's understanding and support, Yuki
has decided not to push for the summit on this expedition.
Guy, Dave and
the Sherpa team have been proud of the attempts of both Andy and Yuki, and
respect Andy and Yuki in their ability to recognize that unless everything is in
your favor, it is not worth pushing into higher altitudes.
Guy commented
that " It is Adventure Consultants objective to have the best possible
infra structure and resources in place, and whilst we have two very genuine team
members, decision making is a very big aspect of expedition climbing, and as
hard as some decisions are to make, a responsible decision is a good
decision". "Often climbers wanting to leave an expedition have
had problems with their own egos coming to terms with what may be considered as
failure, Andy's case was medical and Yuki had accomplished what he felt
capable of without putting his life on the line to prove something to other
people so I take my hat off to them"
The AC team
and supporters congratulate both Andy and Yuki on their efforts and
achievements.
Guy
Dispatch:
5/8/2000 Guy
Cotter reports from Base Camp
David
Hiddleston is established at Camp II awaiting a break in the weather for a
summit attempt.
Adventure
Consultants
states, " In
addition to this Adventure Consultants is about to launch what we believe to be
the most exciting project on Everest this season! Details will be available over
the next few days so keep a close eye on this website."
EverestNews.com
will bring you all the details, we will not speculate here...
5/8/2000: David
Hiddleston of the AC team is at CII prepared to make a go for the summit as soon
as the weather clears
which according to forecasts should be in the next two days. The Sherpa team is
awaiting the word before they go to join Dave for the summit attempt so are
resting up, playing cards and sunbathing!
Canadian
Byron Smith has returned to BC after a thwarted summit attempt due to deep snow
above South col. Also down at base again are Peter
Habeler (and
his team)
as are the Korean Seven Summits team. Babu Chiri of Nepal has also descended after
fixing 400m of rope on the triangular face above South Col.
Several
teams have left base camp for camp 2 in the hope
of improving weather in the next few days. Contrary to some reports, there is
little focus on trying to be the first expedition to the summit for the
millennium by the climbers here. Most
would rather see a group go first to place the fixed ropes
and break
the trail through the new snow.
It's about this time that everybody wishes
this was the 'Yak Route' (as
often called by those who have never climbed Everest)
so a good trail could be plowed!
Guy
will remain at Base Camp ...
visit this site for progress on the ADVENTURE CONSULTANTS EVEREST CHALLENGE, "the
mountains will never be the same again....."
Update: 13th
May - Guy Cotter reports from Base Camp
Ang
Dorje Sherpa to attempt speed ascent record
Guy's words...
Tomorrow afternoon (14
May) Ang Dorje Sherpa from the Adventure Consultants Everest expedition will
make an attempt to climb Mt Everest in record time in one push from Base Camp to
the summit.
He is being supported
by the Adventure Consultants team of Sherpas as well as Guide David Hiddleston
who intends to summit at the same time as Ang Dorje and record the event. The
previous record for the ascent is by Marc Batard who has climbed the peak in 24
hours from Base Camp. Passang Kaji Sherpa claimed a record in 1999 of 20 hours
and 24 minutes but used indistinct photographs, supposedly depicting Everest's'
summit, as proof of the ascent but the photos just showed a snowy background,
where a very distinct antennae on the summit would have surely proved him to be
at the high point. Naturally this ascent has been widely disputed although one
must assume that a naive approach to positive proof may be the major factor in
the dispute. Ang Dorje has not given an estimate on the time he expects to make
between base camp and the summit, "
There are too many things like snow conditions to slow me down" he
says. He also claims that if he reaches South Col and doesn't feel good he will
abandon the ascent. "Maybe I will do it, but
if not feeling good, down." Over the last few
weeks a lot of snow has fallen at high altitudes which will slow down progress
up high and although the weather is good right now Ang Dorje is reluctant to
place undue pressure on himself to meet a predetermined time. He understands
that all he can do is his best. Already having summited Mt Everest 5 times, Ang
Dorje knows every step of the way to the top and until now he has been to the
Sth Summit (only 100m short of the top) 13 times. With such a background Ang
Dorje realistically knows his limits and is not out to endanger his life or
those around him supporting him on this world record attempt..
Of note this season
is the fact that another Sherpa, Babu Chiri from Solu Khumbu, has claimed that
he will break the speed record on Everest this year. A widely publicized
campaign claims that he intends to climb the 3500m from base camp to summit in
16 hours. Babu has the unique distinction of having slept on the summit of Mt
Everest for 21 hours in 1999 and now intends to increase his profile by doing a
speed ascent. Sources who know both Ang Dorje and Babu believe that Ang Dorje's
strength and experience define him as the superior climber of the two. However
Ang Dorje is not setting out to compete against Babu, rather this is a personal
challenge he has set for himself.
Recognized as one of
the strongest and fastest of the Sherpa climbers, Ang Dorje also has a
reputation as a sensible climber and an asset to any climbing team. Having
reached Mt Everest's summit first in 1992 with the first guided expedition run
by Adventure Consultants Ltd, Ang Dorje has been instrumental as the Sirdar, or
Sherpa leader, for AC ever since. Having attempted to save the life of
beleaguered guide Rob Hall and his client Doug Hansen in 1996 during the well
publicized tragedy on Mt Everest, Ang Dorje has a maturity forged by both the
tragic and the triumphant. A loyal and humble friend to his climbing companions,
he revels in the lighter moments enjoying some tomfoolery and occasional frantic
dancing sessions during base camp parties!
Ang Dorje has known
and been friend to present Adventure Consultants company owner Guy Cotter since
they first climbed Everest in 1992. They went onto Everest again in '93 (when
Cotter gave up his summit bid to assist an ailing climber down from high on the
mountain) and again in 1995 when Cotter again became involved in what is
believed to be the worlds highest rescue. French female climber Chantal Mauduit
collapsed on the Sth Summit during an attempt to climb with out oxygen. Cotter
put his oxygen onto Mauduit and dragged her down to the 'balcony' where fellow
guide Ed Viesturs had the group waiting to assist her back to Sth Col. In 1996,
in the wake of the Everest tragedy, Cotter and Ang Dorje teamed up again to
climb Ama Dablam and Adventure Consultants was reborn. The company has gone on
to achieve ascents on many of the worlds highest peaks focusing on increasing
safety margins with the group summiting Everest again in '97.
Reporting to the
world via radio of their successful ascent at 6.50am on May 23, no-one could
believe they had reached the summit so early in the day. Being back in South Col
before many teams had even summited was a highlight for the whole team. This was
proof that AC had moved on to display that not only had they managed to bring
high altitude guiding to a new level, but that they could do so with over 60
people summiting that day. Later in the day climber Dave Carter came down with a
severe throat infection which left him wiped out physically. A protracted
descent with Ed Viesturs to CIII and severe respiratory problems was cause for
concern for Carters life. He describes his experiences as follows;
"The main
thing to say is that Adventure Consultants is the only group on the hill that is
totally prepared for almost any
situation.
If it was not for AC I would have never made it off the hill.
Because of a strong team and a real Doctor down at base camp I was able to
survive respiratory failure. Adventure Consultants is truly a professional
organization. They are the best deal when it comes to survival and
leadership in the mountains, one of the few organizations that can actually lead
at high altitudes. Party Hard, David Carter "
Ang Dorje has been
considering a personal attempt at a speed ascent of Mt Everest for a few years
now, and the planning and conditions for this have finally come together.
Adventure Consultants is honored to be in the position whereby westerners are
supporting a Sherpa ascent rather than Sherpas supporting western climbers.
Guy
- For more on Ang
Dorje Sherpa check his page on EverestNews.com, which is a little
outdated but will provide some background.
NEWSFLASH 7:00AM EST
US
15th May - ATTEMPT AT
EVEREST SPEED ASCENT
Nepalese climber - Ang
Dorje Sherpa, 32, from the New Zealand based Adventure Consultants Everest 2000
Expedition has attempted a new world record for the fastest ascent of Everest
(8848m), but has been turned back at a
height less than 100 meters from the top at 11:00am Nepal time today.
After climbing from Base Camp at 5300 meters to the South Summit in 17
hours, he was unable to continue because of deep snow slowing his progress,
making the record ascent unachievable. He was supported by the Adventure
Consultants team of Sherpas and New Zealand Mountain Guide - David Hiddleston
(31) from Wanaka, making his first attempt on Everest.
No one has yet summited
Everest this season and together the AC climbers worked to force the route
between the South Summit and the Hillary Step on the South East Ridge route
between 9:00 - 11:00am this morning. Adventure Consultants Director - Guy
Cotter, who has been coordinating the expedition from Everest Base Camp, said "They
recognized that with the conditions along the summit ridge, it would take them
too long to make the summit and return within accepted safety margins, hence
their decision to turn and head down the mountain".
Ang Dorje left Everest
Base Camp at 4:00pm on May 14 and he arrived at the South Col (7950m) Camp 4 at
midnight. The Adventure Consultants group left from Camp 4 at 10:45pm on May 14
with two other groups having left before them. Ang Dorje caught up with the AC
group at the area called The Balcony. They arrived all together at the South
Summit at 9:10am on May 15 ahead of the other teams and found that no-one else
was prepared to assist with fixing the route any further. After a further two
hours effort on their own they turned around and expect to arrive back at the
South Col Camp 4 at 3:00pm Nepal time today. Recognized as one of the strongest
and fastest of the Sherpa climbers, Ang Dorje has already summited Everest five
times, and has been to the South Summit
(only 100m short of the top) 14 times including today's attempt.
Now the expedition will pack up and leave the mountain, content that they have
made a good attempt and have cleared the way for others to now go on and summit,
since more of the route is now fixed in place.
Guy commented that "Success
in the mountains isn't always assured and their decision to turn around is an
indication of the maturity of David and Ang Dorje as mountaineers. Being able to
give up an ascent of the world's highest mountain in favor of safe operating
practice is to be commended." He added "Too
often mountaineers who push the safety envelope too far survive only through
sheer luck and are considered heroes where they are actually accidents that
didn't quite happen."
Adventure Consultants
has been honored to be in the position whereby westerners have supported a
Sherpa ascent rather than Sherpas supporting western climbers as has been the
norm up until now.
Issued by Guy Cotter,
Everest Base Camp, Nepal. Monday 15th May 2000.
Following is a time
line of the summit attempt
Note: All times
reported are Nepal time = GMT + 5 hours 45 minutes
14 May 4:00pm Base Camp:
Ang Dorje departs BC, and rockets up through the icefall, an amazing sight!
5:24pm, Ang Dorje
reaches Camp 1: Earlier in the day, Dave and the
Sherpas had reached the South Col at 1.30pm, and spent the afternoon
re-hydrating
6:34pm Ang Dorje arrives
at Camp 2: He departs at 6.45pm after three cups of
juice and Tea.
9:21pm Ang Dorje arrives
at Camp 3: Quote of the year - "Not
much tired"
10:23pm Ang Dorje
arrives at Yellowband. Dave radioed in from South
Col at 10:30pm, they ( Dave and Mingma ) were preparing to leave in 15-20 minutes.
Two teams had already left ahead, one team
- 1 hour prior and one 1/2 an hour prior, good news.
Ang Dorje arrives at
South Col around 12:00pm Ang Dorje departs South
Col with Passang, at about 12:30am 15 May 2000.
Chuldim stays on South Col. In fact there is a Chuldim in each camp! - Camp 2
Chuldim, South Col Chuldim, and Ang Dorje's real name is Chuldim!
Chongba Sherpa has been down in Gorak Shep for the night to relay messages from
South Col and Camp 2, is returning to BC this morning.
15th May, 7:25am:
Chuldim at South Col reports that he has heard from the group, that all 4 are
together and just below the South Summit. From the South Summit they may be 2
hours to the summit. Ang Dorje is still on track to take 3 hours off the speed
ascent record. The weather is perfect,
there is one thermal cloud down by Cholaste at 18000ft, otherwise blue skies and
no wind at all at Base Camp!
8:05am:
Ang Dorje radios and advises that they are 15 minutes from the South Summit
still.
9:10am:
Dave called from the South summit - he'd been there all of 5 seconds! They were
still South Col side, in knee deep snow.
There were just two other Sherpas ahead of
them from Mountain Madness who have been fixing rope,
on the South summit were Dave, Ang Dorje & Passang, Mingma was still
behind but coming up. They are needing lots of rope and hope others coming up
have more rope. About 15 people behind them. Chris Boskoff and Peter Habeler have pulled out not reaching the
Balcony this morning and they are now below Camp
IV, Nazir Sabir who is on the Mountain Madness permit is still climbing but not
near. Dave states "Mind blowing view, not much
filming yet as the camera was frozen but now is OK. Ang Dorje on O2 since South
Col".
9:35am:
Dave called again. Situation is that there is just Dave, Ang Dorje,
Passang, and one other Sherpa from Mountain Madness, so only 4 prepared to do
anything and about 10 other people around. They only have 50 meters of rope. So
are turning back, as there is "new snow on ice
from thereon" but not enough manpower to go
on. "It's the time factor from here to the top
that is the issue without enough resources and help from other teams".
Guy radios response "OK
good decision, you're already on the 2nd highest summit in the world, we've seen
this before, this would be pushing the envelope". and
comments to AC Manager - Suze Kelly assisting at Base Camp "
They got to the balcony at 3:30am, beautiful day, but now they are first with no
one else to help secure the route".
10:05am: Dave's radio message to Guy
"Mingma has arrived with more rope and more
O2, they are going on. They will go slowly over the next hour and see where they
get to, it's near the limit but still within the margins. Mingma is going down.
Talked over O2 supplies and there is sufficient for all, turnaround times in
relation to amounts of oxygen left, all still good so pressing on". Expedition
Doctor - Jim Litch and Guy both talked thoroughly with Dave and all agreed on
course of action for the next hour. After a further
two hours effort on their own they turned around and expect to arrive back at
the South Col Camp 4 at 3:00pm Nepal time today.
Check our News
Page for all the Updates on Adventure Consultants
and the rest of the climbers on Everest.
For
all the May 2000 News
For
all the April 2000 News
For
all the March 2000 News
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