Aconcagua 2002!

Please note:  This online gear list is only a guide.

[ ] Ice Axe w/Leash. General mountaineering tool. Sizing is important: under 5'7" use a 60cm tool; 5'7"- 6'1" use a 65cm tool; over 6'1" use a 70cm tool. (Too short is preferable to too long). Please no rubberized grips on the shaft of the ice axe. Make sure that you have a leash that is designed for use on a glacier axe. Please no technical leashes designed for technical ice climbing-they are too short, heavy, and not versatile. Suggested: SMC Himalayan or Charlet Moser Vanois or Grivel Pamir.
[ ] Adjustable Ski/Trekking Poles. 3 Sections are the most versatile. Suggested: Leki, Life Link, Black Diamond.

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Gear List
Past Expeditions
Alpine Ascents
[ ] Lightweight Underwear. 2 pair tops & bottoms, Capilene, other synthetic or wool. No Cotton. Lightweight is preferable as it is more versatile (worn single in warmer conditions and double layer for colder). Zip-T-neck tops allow more ventilation options. One set of white for intense sunny days and one pair of dark for faster drying gives the most versatility. Suggested: North Face Micronamics, Marmot DriClime, or Patagonia Capilene. Additional suggestions for women: Patagonia Capilita Trunks and Shaka Bra.
[ ] Expedition Weight Underwear Top. Expedition weight Capilene. A fleece vest may also be used.
[ ] Fleece or Synthetic Jacket. Mid-Heavyweight Fleece (Polartec 200-300). A full-zip version is easier to put on and has better ventilation than a pullover. Suggested: Fleece - North Face Denali, Patagonia R-3. Synthetic - Patagonia Puff Ball or Mt. Hardwear Chugach
[ ] Fleece or Synthetic Pants. Light-Mid-weight pile (Polartec 100-200) with full separating side zippers (This is vitally important for ventilation and for the safety and ease of dressing up or down when conditions change in the middle of a climb). Suggested: North Face, Patagonia, Outdoor Research.
[ ] Down Parka. (Expedition Weight, must be fully baffled, have insulated hood, and go below the waist) Suggested: North Face Baltoro, Mt. Hardwear Absolute Zero, Marmot 8000 meter, Feathered Friends Ice Fall.
[ ] Down or synthetic Pants. To fit over insulation layers. Outer shell must be windproof. Suggested: Down - Feathered Friends Helios or Volant. Synthetic - Mt. Hardware Chugach, Patagonia Puffball Pants.
[ ] Gore-Tex Shell Pants & Shell Jacket with hood. For the jacket we highly recommend a long front zipper, a roomy rather than snug fit and underarm zips which go well below the armpit. We also require full separating side zippers on the pants. Suggested: North Face, Outdoor Research, Patagonia.

[ ] 2 Pair Synthetic Gloves. Bunting or fleece gloves which will fit comfortably inside mitts. A heavier fleece will do a better job of keeping hands warmer when wet than lighter polypropylene or Capilene. Suggested: Patagonia Exp. weight or Bunting glove.
[ ] Outdoor Research Pro Modular Mitts w/ double liners. This brand of warm mittens with Gore-Tex separate overshells are required. Please contact office if you cannot find this item in your area.

[ ] Light hiking boots or trekking shoes. For day hikes and trek to Base Camp. The trail to Base Camp is rocky and rough. Light weight, high comfort, plenty of room in the toe bed, and good support should be stressed here. Suggested: Garmont, Lowa, Scarpa, Raichle, La Sportiva.
[ ] Teva Sports sandals. For river crossings.
[ ] Double plastic climbing boots. (Aveolite liners are optional but highly recommended). Good quality plastic shells with inner boots Avoid tight fit with heavy socks. Suggested: Koflach Degree or Artis Expedition, Scarpa Invernos, or Lowa Civetta, Everest One Sports.
[ ] Crampons. With flat rather than "cookie cutter" frame rails. Your crampons should be steel, not aluminum for strength and durability. Avoid anti-balling plates which are heavy and are useful only in very specific snow conditions. A combination heel bail/toe strap is a better system than a heel and toe bail system. Suggested: Charlet Moser Super 12 Rapidfix Lanieres, Grivel G12 New-Matic, or Black Diamond Sabertooths.
[ ] Gaiters. Expedition gaiters with cordura on the inside. Suggested: Outdoor Research Expedition Crocodiles. Not needed with Everest One Sports.
[ ] Wool or Pile Socks. 3 pair heavyweight wool or synthetic socks (wool is warmer) to be worn over the liner socks. When layering socks, check fit over feet and inside boots. Remember to keep one fresh, dry pair of socks available at all times. It is very important to buy new socks regularly as they lose their cushioning over time. Suggested: Smartwool, Bridgedale, Thorlo, Patagonia. Socks with padded shins are especially nice with plastic boots.
[ ] Liner Socks. 3 pair of smooth thin wool, nylon or Capilene to be worn next to the skin. This reduces the incidence of blisters and hot-spots and makes the outer sock last longer before needing to be changed. They should fit well with your heavyweight socks.

[ ] Baseball Cap or other Sun Hat. One with a good visor to shade the nose and eyes. Synthetic (quick dry)
[ ] 2 Bandanas. To shade the neck.
[ ] Wool or pile ski hat.
[ ] Balaclava. 1 lightweight. Suggested: North Face or Patagonia.
[ ] Neck Gaiter. Optional but recommended for added neck & head warmth at the higher camps.
[ ] Headlamp. (spare bulbs & batteries). Suggested: Petzl Zoom. No Halogen bulbs.
[ ] Glacier glasses with Side Covers. 100% UV, IR, high quality optical lenses designed for mountain use, must have side covers, leashes, and a nose guard is particularly helpful (Chums MelaNoNo is a good brand). No more than 8% light transmission. Suggested: Bolle, Bucci, Julbo Round "Arc"or Cebe. If you wear contact lenses we recommend packing a spare pair of glasses-it is a good idea to have these with "photo-gray" or equivalent light-sensitive material so they can double as emergency sunglasses. If you wear glasses we recommend prescription glacier glasses (gray or amber). Talk to your eye care professional to find out where prescription glacier glasses are available. Regular sunglasses are not dark enough and do not provide any side protection from the sun. For prescription Glacier Glasses, contact Black Diamond (801) 278-5533 or Opticus

[ ] Backpack. Internal frame pack expandable to 6,000 cubic inches. Keep it simple and light, avoid unnecessary zippers, etc which add weight. Suggested: North Face, Kelty, Gregory, Dana Designs Terraplane or Astralplane
[ ] Daypack. (Optional but recommended). Small summit pack approx. 2,500cu. in for trek in.
[ ] Sleeping bag. Rated to at least -10oF. If you sleep cold, consider a -20oF bag. Goose down preferred over synthetic for bulk & weight. If well-cared-for a down bag will last much longer than a synthetic bag. Your bag needs to be long enough that your feet are not pressing out the foot box which will make you colder. It should be roomy enough for comfortable sleeping but snug enough for efficient heat retention.
[ ] Compression Stuff Sacks. (Highly recommended but optional) Work very well for reducing volume Especially for sleeping bags and bulky down clothing.
[ ] One Therma-Rest pad. One 3/4 or full length Therma-Rest pad. If you are over 6' a long is recommended. Make sure to include a valve stem and patch repair kit for your Therma-Rest. Suggested: Cascade Designs Therma-Rest Guide Light model
[ ] One Closed-Cell foam pad. Full length closed cell is recommended. Suggested: Cascade Designs Ridge-Rest
[ ] Swiss Army Knife. Medium size. Keep it simple and light. Suggested: Swiss Army Super Tinker.
[ ] Sunscreen. SPF 40 or better, 2 small tubes. Please note: Sunscreen older than 6 months loses half of its SPF rating, make sure that you have new sunscreen. Suggested: Dermatone or AloeGator.
[ ] Lipscreen. SPF 40 or better, at least 2 sticks. Make sure your lipscreen is new. Suggested: Dermatone or Banana Boat.
[ ] Water Bottles: 2.5 liters minimum capacity. Two 1 liter & One .5 liter wide-mouth. No water bags or bladder systems, they freeze on summit day.
[ ] Pee Bottle (1 Liter). Large mouth. Make sure the bottle is clearly marked, "Pee Bottle."
[ ] Pee Funnel (for women).
It is a good idea to practice, practice, practice. Suggested: Freshette.
[ ] Small Personal First-Aid Kit. (Simple and Light) Ear plugs, Aspirin, Moleskin, molefoam, waterproof first-aid tape, athletic tape, Band-Aids, personal medications.
[ ] Cooking Gear:
Cup: 16oz. plastic insulated mug with snap-on lid (retains heat well and is spill-resistant in the tent). Some prefer a non-insulated mug for warming hands.
Spoon: Good quality tough plastic (lexan).
Bowl: Deep plastic with 2-3 cup capacity with lid.

[ ] Large duffel bag w/ lock. Heavy Cordura for transporting all gear. Suggested: Eagle Creek XXL 42"
[ ] Smaller Duffel w/lock. (To store excess gear in hotel)
[ ] 4 Trash Compactor bags. To line stuff sacks to keep gear dry & one large enough to line pack. Trash Compactor bags are made from a heavier plastic.
[ ] Travel clothes. In Mendoza: It is hot, so shorts and t-shirts etc. work well. Trek: Very lightweight trekking pants and long sleeve shirts to protect from sun & dust while staying cool.
[ ] Toiletry Bag. Nothing but the basics: Toothpaste, Toothbrush, Baby Wipes. Toilet paper is provided.
[ ] 1-2 Bottles of Water Purification tablets. For water purification. Filters are too heavy and clog quickly with silt. Suggested Iodine or AquaMira (Non-iodine)
[ ] Purell Hand Sanitizer. Other alcohol based hand cleaners also work well.
[ ] Camera Gear. We recommend small instant or point and shoot cameras. Disposable cameras work great. For the best pictures bring slow speed film, 50-200.

For Polish Direct climb only:

[ ] Climbing helmet. Must be adjustable to fit with or without balaclava hat on. Suggested: Petzl Ecrin Roc.
[ ] North Wall Hammer w/leash. Short (40-55cm) tool. Suggested: Black Diamond Shrike.
[ ] Alpine climbing harness. Harness should fit over all clothing, have gear loops, adjustable leg loops and be reasonably comfortable to hang suspended in. Make sure you can get into the harness without having to step through any part of it. Suggested: Black Diamond Bod Harness.
[ ] Locking carabiners. 2 pear-shaped automatic locking.
[ ] Standard carabiners. 2 standard ovals.
[ ] Insulated Supergaiters. (This gaiter covers the entire boot but leaves the sole exposed. If using Everest One Sport boots, supergaiters are not needed.) Suggested: Wild Country or Climb High Savage Gear.