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Ama Dablam Autumn 2002

Dan Mazur and his Autumn 2002 Ama Dablam Team

Wow! What a day today! We were up at 4.00 this morning in order to transport us and our remaining gear to the airport, for our flight to Lukla. We survived the chaos of the Domestic Terminal and soon were boarding a De-havilland Twin Otter.

The view to the north as we flew past the Himalayan Range was truly incredible. The peaks towered well above the plane - and we were traveling at an altitude of 3700m! Everybody was glued to the portside windows for the 40 minute flight.

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Mazur Ama Dablam 2002
Mazur Ama Dablam Dispatches
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Mazur Ama Dablam Route
Dan Mazur
Autumn Everest 2002
The Lukla airstrip(2800m) is precariously perched on a relatively flat idge - although the runway does slope about 15 degrees uphill. The pilot pulled the landing off without a hitch, however he misjudged the wing span of the plane and ran the wing into the terminal building! No problem - a little broken plaster and a few broken light bulbs and the plane was on it's way back to Kathmandu for another load.

After we found our packs, we made our way to the Namaste (Nama-stay) Lodge where kami , the owner was kindly storing the equipment we had sent earlier. Three of our staff were already waiting for us - Kipa, our head cook, Lakpa Sherpa, one of our climbing Sherpas and Kaji Sherpa, our Sirdar (expedition manager). They served us tea and we relaxed and watched the zoes being rounded up and loaded. This was very entertaining, as some of the animals DID NOT take kindly to being loaded up. One of them bolted, threw it's load and then proceeded to trample it, before the beast was wrestled into submission.

Approximately 4 hours later, we were on the road to our night time destination, Phakding, 3 hrs away. The Cooks prepared us a delicious dinner, served with lots of Sherpa tea. All the members retired soon after for a much needed night's rest, for tomorrow is a big day. We will ascend approximately 1100m to Namche Bazar situated at 3600m. Dan is expecting some of us to be affected by altitude, but we'll see.

Talk to you tomorrow. Some facts about AMA DABLAM and our SCHEDULE is below...

Best Regards From All Of US on the Ama Dablam Expedition from www.summitclimb.com

Dispatches

SOME FACTS ABOUT AMA DABLAM:

Ama Dablam is in the Khumbu valley, near to Mt. Everest, in the heart of the Sherpa area of Nepal, and is considered by many to be the most famous rock-ice-snow climb in all Asia. The name Ama Dablam means Mother’s Charm Box: the high hanging serac located just below the summit resembling the Dablam or Charm Box which Sherpani women wear around their necks. The first ascent of the mountain was by Ed Hillary's Silver Hut expedition in 1961 when Bishop (USA), Gill, Romanes (NZ) and Ward (UK) reached the summit, via the SW ridge, on 13 March after 20 days working on the route. Since then the mountain has received about 500 ascents (not including Sherpas) mostly via the SW ridge.

THE SCHEDULE

1 October    Arrive Kathmandu (1300m), Nepal.

2 October   Explore Kathmandu, finalize arrangements.

3 October   Fly to Lukla (2900m), walk to Monjo (2550m), sleep in tea house or camp.....5 hrs.

4 October    Walk to Namche Bazaar (3440m), sleep in tea house or camp....7 hrs.

5 October    Rest in Namche, sleep in tea house or camp.

6 October    Walk to Deboche (3640m), sleep in tea house or camp.........7 hrs.

7 October    Walk to Pangboche (3860m), sleep in tea house or camp........6 hrs.

8 October    Walk to Base Camp (4650 metres)...….6 hrs

9 October    Rest in Base or walk to Advanced Basecamp (5150 metres), return and sleep in basecamp.

10 October   Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in  advanced basecamp.

11 October   Explore route to camp 1 (5400 metres), return and sleep in basecamp.

12 October   Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in  advanced basecamp.

13 October   Scramble to Camp 1, sleep in camp 1.

 14 October    Explore route to camp 2 (5750 metres), return and sleep in basecamp.

 15 October   Relax in basecamp.

 16 October   Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in advanced basecamp.

 17 October   Scramble to Camp 1, sleep in camp 1.

 18 October   Climb to Camp 2, sleep in camp 2.

 19 October   Explore route to Camp 3 (6230 metres), return and sleep in basecamp.

 20 October   Relax in basecamp.

 21 October   Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in  advanced basecamp.

 22 October   Climb to Camp 2, sleep in camp 2.

 23 October   Climb to camp 3, sleep in camp 3.

 24 October   Summit Attempt.

 25 October   Summit Attempt.

 26 October   Return to basecamp.

 27 October   Pack up basecamp, walk down to  Pangboche, sleep in tea house or  camp.

 28 October   Walk down to Namche, sleep in tea house or camp.

 29 October   Walk down to Lukla, sleep in tea house or camp.

 30 October   Return flight from Lukla to Kathmandu.

 31 October   Extra day in Kathmandu.

 1 November  Fly back to your home country.

 

 
 

 

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