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Ama Dablam Autumn 2002

Dan Mazur and his Autumn 2002 Ama Dablam

After staying in Phakding last night, today we got our first real taste of altitude, with the safe arrival of the team at Namche Bazar. The climb from 2400m to 3600m was long and tough, but we took it slow, drank plenty of water and arrived in good health.
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Mazur Ama Dablam 2002
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Mazur Ama Dablam Route
Dan Mazur
Autumn Everest 2002
Every team member marveled at the Khumbu Valley - lush green vegetation, a thundering white-water river and towering peaks on both sides. There are so many mountains in the Himalaya. Most of the peaks we saw today simply have numbers rather than names. In any other country, these would be considered major peaks. Here, they are mere hills!

The sight of hundreds of porters, each carrying loads sometimes in excess of 80kgs(170 pounds), was truly amazing. These people are vital for the survival of the high villages, carrying, among other things, supplies for the tea houses that trekkers rely on so heavily. The surprising thing is that most of the porters smoke cigarettes, and they carry these enormous loads wearing nothing on their feet but rubber flip flops (thongs). Our own equipment was not carried by porters, but rather by Zo's, a sturdy hybrid cross of cow and yak.

Namche Bazaar, now has a check-in gate staffed by military police, who check the bags of the porters and their identity cards, as well as the permits of the visiting foreigners. There is a 7:00pm curfew in Namche now, so the all night partying and discoing, and song-singing are only memories. This is more like the old Namche of the 1970s.

Wendy and Marc didn't feel too good on arrival, and we tried to take good care of them and made sure they were tucked into bed safely and we checked on them during the night.

We are now relaxing at the extremely spartan Danfe Lodge, run by a Tamang family. They were very pleased to show off the new addition to their family, a baby boy! After a fantastic meal prepared by Kipa and Krishna, our two expert expedition cooks. Tomorrow is a rest day to allow us to acclimatize. The famous Namche Saturday Market is on tomorrow - most of the members will be shopping for wives and girlfriends.

That's it for today, we'll check in again tomorrow.

Best Regards From All Of US on the Ama Dablam Expedition from www.summitclimb.com

 

Dispatches
SOME FACTS ABOUT AMA DABLAM:

Ama Dablam is in the Khumbu valley, near to Mt. Everest, in the heart of the Sherpa area of Nepal, and is considered by many to be the most famous rock-ice-snow climb in all Asia. The name Ama Dablam means Mother’s Charm Box: the high hanging serac located just below the summit resembling the Dablam or Charm Box which Sherpani women wear around their necks. The first ascent of the mountain was by Ed Hillary's Silver Hut expedition in 1961 when Bishop (USA), Gill, Romanes (NZ) and Ward (UK) reached the summit, via the SW ridge, on 13 March after 20 days working on the route. Since then the mountain has received about 500 ascents (not including Sherpas) mostly via the SW ridge.

THE SCHEDULE

1 October    Arrive Kathmandu (1300m), Nepal.

2 October   Explore Kathmandu, finalize arrangements.

3 October   Fly to Lukla (2900m), walk to Monjo (2550m), sleep in tea house or camp.....5 hrs.

4 October    Walk to Namche Bazaar (3440m), sleep in tea house or camp....7 hrs.

5 October    Rest in Namche, sleep in tea house or camp.

6 October    Walk to Deboche (3640m), sleep in tea house or camp.........7 hrs.

7 October    Walk to Pangboche (3860m), sleep in tea house or camp........6 hrs.

8 October    Walk to Base Camp (4650 metres)...….6 hrs

9 October    Rest in Base or walk to Advanced Basecamp (5150 metres), return and sleep in basecamp.

10 October   Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in  advanced basecamp.

11 October   Explore route to camp 1 (5400 metres), return and sleep in basecamp.

12 October   Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in  advanced basecamp.

13 October   Scramble to Camp 1, sleep in camp 1.

 14 October    Explore route to camp 2 (5750 metres), return and sleep in basecamp.

 15 October   Relax in basecamp.

 16 October   Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in advanced basecamp.

 17 October   Scramble to Camp 1, sleep in camp 1.

 18 October   Climb to Camp 2, sleep in camp 2.

 19 October   Explore route to Camp 3 (6230 metres), return and sleep in basecamp.

 20 October   Relax in basecamp.

 21 October   Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in  advanced basecamp.

 22 October   Climb to Camp 2, sleep in camp 2.

 23 October   Climb to camp 3, sleep in camp 3.

 24 October   Summit Attempt.

 25 October   Summit Attempt.

 26 October   Return to basecamp.

 27 October   Pack up basecamp, walk down to  Pangboche, sleep in tea house or  camp.

 28 October   Walk down to Namche, sleep in tea house or camp.

 29 October   Walk down to Lukla, sleep in tea house or camp.

 30 October   Return flight from Lukla to Kathmandu.

 31 October   Extra day in Kathmandu.

 1 November  Fly back to your home country.

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