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Ama Dablam Autumn 2002

Dan Mazur and his Autumn 2002 Ama Dablam

We had a busy rest day in Namche. Wendy and Marc seemed to feel much better this morning. Markus and Andy and others awoke early and walked along the trail to Everest for ten minutes to catch a glimpse of the fantastic views of Mt Everest, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Nuptse, etcetera. It is a stunning and even frightening view.

Stuart and Roland went to the market with Kipa the cook, and shopped for 400 liters of kerosene, 100 kilos of meat, 150 kilos of vegetables, and 20 loaves of bread.

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Mazur Ama Dablam 2002
Mazur Ama Dablam Dispatches
Mazur Ama Dablam Gallery
Mazur Ama Dablam Route
Dan Mazur
Autumn Everest 2002
Murari from Parivar Trekking, Dan, Raja and Nishchal (our two accompanying reporters and photographers from the Kathmandu Post daily news paper), went to the offices of the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee, and met with Ang Furba Sherpa. the Chairman, as well as Ram Chandra Kharkhi, one of the officers. They handed over the computer equipment kindly donated by Rudy Zuber from Switzerland and Kevin Donovan from Texas. There was a festive atmosphere, with lots of speeches, hand shaking, and photographs. In attendance was Jay Reilly, Tom Taplin, and Tom Boydston. It was quite an exciting time, and it looked like everyone felt a warm feeling, and was proud to be a part of the positive story to try and lend help to the highest National Park in the world, and to Nepal in general.

Markus and Andy and others climbed up to the famous Everest View lodge, where they had tea and toured some of the rooms (equipped with oxygen bottles and masks!).

We celebrated with a fine lunch at Thamserku View Lodge, and it was lovely to see the charming sisters who run the place, although Pemba Dolma (Woman Everest summiter) was away in Bhutan, her sister Pemba was visiting from Munich, and her other sister was cooking excellent meals and her mother was working harder than ever. Truly an exemplary family of fine Sherpas.

We stopped by our friend Tsedam's mountaineering shop, known as International Mountaineering Equipment, and Mountain Madness Shop, and we reminisced over old times and bought some of his brand new equipment imported from Europe, Britain, and the US.

Finally, in the afternoon, Jangbu Sherpa, Pemba Sherpa, and Dan, working together with Kaji, our Sirdar, loaded 22 yaks, and set off for Pangboche. Jangbu reached there in 3 hours and 40 minutes, and Dan and Pemba arrived in 4 hours. The yaks would follow tomorrow, when the trio moves into basecamp. The other team members finished their rest day and went to bed early, primed for a walk to the beautiful hamlet of DeBoche, in a forest below the famous temple of Thyangboche, with stupendous views of Everest and Ama Dablam.

Best Regards From All Of US on the Ama Dablam Expedition from www.summitclimb.com

Dispatches
SOME FACTS ABOUT AMA DABLAM:

Ama Dablam is in the Khumbu valley, near to Mt. Everest, in the heart of the Sherpa area of Nepal, and is considered by many to be the most famous rock-ice-snow climb in all Asia. The name Ama Dablam means Mother’s Charm Box: the high hanging serac located just below the summit resembling the Dablam or Charm Box which Sherpani women wear around their necks. The first ascent of the mountain was by Ed Hillary's Silver Hut expedition in 1961 when Bishop (USA), Gill, Romanes (NZ) and Ward (UK) reached the summit, via the SW ridge, on 13 March after 20 days working on the route. Since then the mountain has received about 500 ascents (not including Sherpas) mostly via the SW ridge.

THE SCHEDULE

1 October    Arrive Kathmandu (1300m), Nepal.

2 October   Explore Kathmandu, finalize arrangements.

3 October   Fly to Lukla (2900m), walk to Monjo (2550m), sleep in tea house or camp.....5 hrs.

4 October    Walk to Namche Bazaar (3440m), sleep in tea house or camp....7 hrs.

5 October    Rest in Namche, sleep in tea house or camp.

6 October    Walk to Deboche (3640m), sleep in tea house or camp.........7 hrs.

7 October    Walk to Pangboche (3860m), sleep in tea house or camp........6 hrs.

8 October    Walk to Base Camp (4650 metres)...….6 hrs

9 October    Rest in Base or walk to Advanced Basecamp (5150 metres), return and sleep in basecamp.

10 October   Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in  advanced basecamp.

11 October   Explore route to camp 1 (5400 metres), return and sleep in basecamp.

12 October   Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in  advanced basecamp.

13 October   Scramble to Camp 1, sleep in camp 1.

 14 October    Explore route to camp 2 (5750 metres), return and sleep in basecamp.

 15 October   Relax in basecamp.

 16 October   Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in advanced basecamp.

 17 October   Scramble to Camp 1, sleep in camp 1.

 18 October   Climb to Camp 2, sleep in camp 2.

 19 October   Explore route to Camp 3 (6230 metres), return and sleep in basecamp.

 20 October   Relax in basecamp.

 21 October   Walk to Advanced Basecamp, sleep in  advanced basecamp.

 22 October   Climb to Camp 2, sleep in camp 2.

 23 October   Climb to camp 3, sleep in camp 3.

 24 October   Summit Attempt.

 25 October   Summit Attempt.

 26 October   Return to basecamp.

 27 October   Pack up basecamp, walk down to  Pangboche, sleep in tea house or  camp.

 28 October   Walk down to Namche, sleep in tea house or camp.

 29 October   Walk down to Lukla, sleep in tea house or camp.

 30 October   Return flight from Lukla to Kathmandu.

 31 October   Extra day in Kathmandu.

 1 November  Fly back to your home country.

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