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Ama Dablam Autumn 2002

Dan Mazur and his Autumn 2002 Ama Dablam

Several Updates from Dan's team are below. First let's start with a note from Andy and Ian Prentice.

Andy and Ian Prentice, as well as Jon Briggs, set off from Kathmandu a few days ahead of the tem, in order to acclimate and spend more time trekking rather than in the urban environs of Kathmandu. Here is their story:

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Mazur Ama Dablam 2002
Mazur Ama Dablam Dispatches
Mazur Ama Dablam Gallery
Mazur Ama Dablam Route
Dan Mazur
Autumn Everest 2002
Dear EverestNews.com, Well, since leaving Kathmandu with the plan of heading for Everest base camp a whole lot has happened... We (Jon Briggs , Ian and Andy Prentice - aka the Prentice brothers) arrived in Namche Bazaar on the 30th of October feeling really good and strong. We decided to have a rest day in Namche, then set off for Pangboche on the 2nd of November. Unfortunately Ian awoke on the 1st with symptoms that indicated Giardia. Andy walked to Kundie Hospital and got some medication from the Canadian doctor Rod. Within 24 hours of taking the medication Ian was back on his feet and ready to move again. Jon (Jock Jon) had decided to travel the rest of the way by himself. we (Prentice brothers) decided to travel to Tengboche and spend the night and check out the monastery the next day - man, we landed on our feet. Not only did we get to have a tour around the amazing prayer hall but also have a personal blessing from the head lama. This was a real privilege. We then left Tengboche headed for Pangboche. we decided that rather than travel to everest base camp it would be a better plan to focus our energies on acclimatizing on Ama Dablam (AD) itself. The trek from Tengboche to AD base camp takes about 2 hours on a good day. The trek from AD base camp to Advanced base camp is about another 4 - 6 hours with a total elevation of around 1500m meters. Having done the trek four times climbing high and sleeping low in Tengboche we don't care if we never do it again. Having now met all the members of the expedition we can't wait to get stuck into the climbing, the team are a great bunch of guys. Tomorrow we will be traveling along with the group to ABC and then staying over the night along with Jock Jon. We are feeling good, strong and focused for the climb ahead. We look forward to seeing our families and girlfriends in the UK soon.

That's all for now, The Prentice Brothers

Ok back to the group: Rex Dougherty left Kathmandu ahead of the main group, and he and Ang Galu and Ang Sherpa, two of our strong Sherpas, trekked up to base camp to begin preparing things for the team's arrival. Here is the play by play of what he did:

30 Sep: Ang Sherpa and Galu Sherpa, and I left Kathmandu for Base Camp. After a spectacular landing at Lukla we arranged for four porters to ferry our personal gear and we left for Monju just outside the Sagarmartha National Park.

 

01 Oct: Wow! It's October already. After a 'slight' problem at the Park Entrance (no passport) my silver-tongued Sherpas got me inside the park and off we were to Namche. We arrived about 11:30 am and located my friend Tsedam who runs an equipment shop. He sent us to his sister-

in-law's tea house to spend the night. There is a 7pm to 5am curfew in Namche for obvious reasons.

 

02 Oct: We were up early (not as early as the porters) and left for Pangboche at 8am. About 15 minutes later after rounding a bend in the trail we were presented with a spectacular view of Mt. Ama Dablam, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Nuptse, and the grand lady herself, Mt. Everest. Absolutely no

words describe the view, it is very spiritual. We arrived in Pangboche about 3pm and located the tea house where our gear was stored from last year's expedition.

 

03 Oct: We arranged for 10 yaks and 2 porters to carry the expedition gear and our personal gear to Base Camp. In true Nepali fashion we finally got moving at 11am arriving in Base Camp two hours later and 4600 meters high. This will be our home for the next 24 days. We had just enough time to set up the kitchen tent and a tent for Ang Sherpa and Galu and one for me.

Dal Baht for supper!

 

04 Oct: The entire day was spent setting up the dining tent and the remainder of the base camp tents for the members who will arrive on 7 Oct. It was environmental day today. We cleaned up the yak dung and all the trash left by previous expeditions.

 

05 Oct: We made a carry of equipment to Advance Base Camp 5100 meters today. It took a few minutes to locate the small trickle of water among all the boulders but we found it. Lunch in an incredibly beautiful environment and then down to Base Camp for a much needed rest day. One last note...'Hi Mom'.

 

10/6/02 Dispatch: The team left Namche Bazaar this morning bound for Deboche. Everyone seemed in good health - Brain Rolfson had gotten over his stomach bug, Wendy Larson was feeling more acclimatized, and Krishna Sherpa was over his cold. Marc was moving along at a good clip. A massive amount of equipment and food was hauled out by 43 yaks. We use yaks at higher altitudes, as they are better suited to higher altitudes and cold, than the yak/cow cross: "Zo".

Speaking of yaks, we had three runaways today. They decided to go wandering down the trail with some crucial gear - including Dan's bag with all of his high altitude equipment! Kaji, our Sirdar (which means "Headman"), managed to track them down in the middle of the night.

The walk to Deboche was stunning, with fantastic views of Mt Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Nuptse. Most of the team visited the Tengboche Monastery and attended the monks' prayers - even five minutes of hearing the monks chanting gives great blessing.

Jay met up with Jon Briggs about 10 minutes out of Deboche. He was on his way to Namche after having been to Kala Patar. A 5500 metre hill near the tiny hamlet of gorak shep, where one can catch a fine view of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, the awesome Western Cwm, and the frightening great Khumbu icefall. Jon is already fully acclimatized, and will meet us in Base camp in two days.

That's it for today, off to Base camp tomorrow!

Best Regards From All Of US on the Ama Dablam Expedition from www.summitclimb.com

Dispatches
 

 

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