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Ama Dablam Autumn 2002

Dan Mazur and his Autumn 2002 Ama Dablam

Today was probably the best day of the expedition, weather-wise. The group of climbers who spent last night at Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at 5400 meters had an early breakfast of coconut porridge, then carried a load to Camp 1 (5750 meters). Camp 1 is perched on the Southwest Ridge proper and affords spectacular views of the route above. This group of climbers consisted of Andy, Brian, Markus, Roland, Paul, Mick, the 3 Toms, Christian, and Pasang Galu, another one of our 6 Sherpas. Lakpa Sherpa and Jangbu Sherpa went up early to start preparing the tent areas at Camp 1.
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Dan Mazur
Autumn Everest 2002
Most people carried a load of personal equipment up and deposited it at Camp 1 before heading down. The team followed a route set by the German expedition that followed a rope our own Sherpas, Jangbu and Lakpa, had fixed, along a series of slabs of rock with a huge drop off on the left side. Pasang Galu and Tom Lannamann stayed for a little while to help chop the 1m thick ice off of the tent sites before heading down. Lakpa and Jangbu will stay at ABC and head back up for more ice-chopping tomorrow.

Meanwhile, a second group of climbers consisting of Ken, Stu, the Prentice brothers, Jon, Randy, Dave, and Marc, headed up from Base Camp to ABC. Their plan is to spend the night at ABC and carry a load up to Camp 1 tomorrow. Dan headed up with them but came down after lunch.

Rex and Galu came down from ABC for a long overdue break. Rex and the Sherpas plan to establish Camp 3 by the 18th, weather permitting. Thus the 19th is the earliest possible summit day for our group.

Unconfirmed reports have circulated of a rogue yak marauding through base camp. 'Thundering hooves ran past my tent, shaking the ground as they passed,' Charlie confirmed. The yak attack seems to have caused no permanent damage.

Late in the afternoon at base camp, Roland, Patrick, Tom Lannamann, and Dan paid a social call to the French expedition and their magnificent, expensive-looking dining tent. Their leader is Anselme Baud, an extremely famous French extreme skier, who has written several books and was one of the two Frenchman who made the extremely terrifying descent down the Freney Ridge of Mont Blanc. We were extremely honored to meet him and his team of 11 climbers, comprising Guilliame, Sebastien, Frederic, among others.

Dan reports no permanent damage despite a gaggle of Tibetan youths performing a rendition of 'Riverdance' on our solar panels.

Despite a brief and intense flurry of Himalayan mist-hail, the weather cleared for magnificent evening views and sunsets and is once again crisp and cold this evening.

Yours Sincerely from Tom and Tom and all of us on the Ama Dablam Expedition from www.summitclimb.com

Dispatches

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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