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Ama Dablam Autumn 2002

Dan Mazur and his Autumn 2002 Ama Dablam

Patrick, Roland and Dan returned from C1 to BC in the afternoon. Tom Taplin returned from ABC in the morning. Jay, Randy and Dave moved up to C1. Wendy finally departed for a 5 day Everest Base Camp excursion. Mike, Ken and the Prentice brothers initiated their summit bid by moving up to ABC. Earlier those remaining at BC had a team meeting to determine the strategy for staging the summit teams. The group was split up into 3 potential summit teams and will move up on successive days. Group logistics and food requirements were also discussed to insure a smooth transition from camp to camp. The weather was very questionable and looked like a good dose of snow was in the forecast.
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Dan Mazur
Autumn Everest 2002
Thankfully, only a minor amount of snow fell overnight. The efforts to establish the route to C3 by two of our five super-Sherpas, Lakpe and Jangbu along with the German Sherpas are being hampered by 2 meter deep snow. Last year by contrast there was only 2 cm of snow in the same area. The route setters turned back 100m from C3 due to these dangerous conditions. Lakpe and Jangbu returned to BC around 11:30 PM very tired from their efforts and for a well deserved rest. The German team remained at C2, C1, and ABC, in the hope of continuing to push the route to C3 tomorrow. Our good friends on the French team are hoping to establish an alternative route to C3 via the rock ridge thus avoiding the dangerous snow conditions. Both the French and German teams are under tight time constraints due to needing to return to Lukla by 26 October. We at BC are observing their impressive efforts through our telescope, kindly provided by Murari Sharma at Parivar Trekking. Brian has seemingly recovered from the stomach ailment which plagued him at ABC. Everyone else at BC is feeling well and anticipating their summit attempts. Charlie keeps mentioning someone named Dia Mia with a big smile on his face. Jay Reilly is doing great camp 1 and says hi to his true love. A trekking team from New Zealand, who paid us a brief visit, departed yesterday. Other expeditions, large and small, are beginning to arrive at BC and are queuing up for their shot on the mountain. We are excited, because we are next!!!!!!

Cheers from Tom T., Charlie and Mick.

All the best for now, from all of us at the Ama Dablam Expedition

A translation for our French family members:

Tom Taplin n'a pas passe la nuit au camp1, il a prefere descendre jusqu'au camp de base avance pour beneficier d'une meilleure nourriture. Daniel, Patrick et Roland ont prefere dormir au camp 1 afin de continuer leur acclimatation. Les nouvelles ne sont pas encourageantes, nos sherpas, le leader de l'equipe Allemande, ainsi que les Francais n'ont pas reussient a atteindre le camp3. La neige etant trop abondante et poudreuse, en plus des risques d'avanlanches. Nos sherpas epuises par la preparation de la route vers le camp3 sont redescendus dormir au camp de base. Nous avons eu une communication radio avec l'equipe francaise qui se trouvait au camp 1. Ils demandaient des pitons, afin d'equiper l'arete rocheuse pour atteindre le camp 3 afin d'eviter la voie normale encombre par la neige (situation anormale pour cette saison). Daniel, Patrick, Tom Taplin et Roland sont redescendu au camp de base, afin de prendre quelques jours de repos et d'attendre le feu vert pour l'ascension finale. Le moral et l'esprit restent excellent, le temps est au beau fixe.

Salutations Patrick et Roland

Best Regards From All Of US on the Ama Dablam Expedition from www.summitclimb.com

Dispatches

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

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