summit team from the day before made their way all the way down
to base camp. There was a very tense moment, however in their
descent - last year's old frayed rope Ian Prentice was
rappelling on snapped, but luckily for him he had a separate
safety line attached to this year's rope which arrested his
fall. Each member has been explicitly instructed to take extreme
care between camp 1 and 2, and to use only the new ropes from
this year. There are a few ropes from last year left, but we
tried to cut the majority away with our rope-knives.
Another team, consisting of Dan,
Roland, Patrick, Randy, Ken, Tom Taplin, Jangbu and Ang Shera
Sherpa are making their way to camp 2 today for their summit bid
in 1 day's time.
All the best for now, from all
of us at the Ama Dablam Expedition
10/23: Jay Reilly made it
safely down to Camp 1 today after another windy, sleepless night
at Camp 3. Mick Long and Paul Mitterbacher pushed all the way to
Base camp, arriving safely at 6.30pm.
The final team of Dan, Randy,
Roland, Patrick, Ken and Tom Taplin, arrived at camp 3 this
afternoon. They will attempt the summit tomorrow. Rex,
unfortunately had to abandon his summit bid, because Pemba
Sherpa, our kitchen boy in ABC, cut his hand very badly. Rex
accompanied him to base camp where he was put back together
again by Ken, Brian, and Andy, our team of three fine doctors.
All the best for now, from all
of us at the Ama Dablam Expedition
10/24: Yet another successful
day for our team members, with Randy Murphy, Patrick Bernier,
Ken Stalter, Roland Debare, Tom Taplin, Dan Mazur, Ang Shera
Sherpa and Jangbu Sherpa all reaching the summit. This was Ang
Shera's first ever climb of Ama Dablam. He is a Climbing Sherpa
in training, and he couldn't have a much better mentor than
veteran Sherpa, Jangbu.
Conditions were very similar
for this team - clear skies, but high winds and cold
temperatures. Patrick proposed to his girlfriend Karine over the
satellite phone from the summit - and she accepted!
After their climb, the team
then broke camp 3 and cleaned up all rubbish, then descended to
Camp 2 - a massive day! Everyone was exhausted, especially
Jangbu, Shera, Dan and Tom who didn't make it to camp 2 until
7.30pm. The entire team is totally focused on safety and
"cleaning" the mountain on the way down. This is is the most
important part of the climb, getting back down from the summit
in total safety with extra cleanliness in cleaning up our own
rubbish, as well as that of others. Galu, Lahkpa and Tek have
gone back up to camp 1 today, to help the descending team,
assist with cleaning the mountain and carrying tents, and all
equipment, as well as the debris left by others.
Jay Reilly made it safely down
from camp 1 this afternoon. He had to wait till Rex kindly
brought his hiking boots to camp 1 after they were mistakenly
taken down by overzealous cleanup Sherpas the day before.
Thank you from all of us on Ama
Greetings from the
International Ama Dablam 2002 Expedition, organized by
SummitClimb.Com under the leadership of Daniel Mazur, Rex
Dougherty, and Jay Reilly, all assisted by the People and
Government of Nepal, Parivar Trekking of Nepal, Patagonia.com
and Ozark Gear, missing our friends at Blue Sheep Adventures. We
are proud to report that fifteen of our twenty five members have
reached the summit of 6856 meter Ama Dablam. We set up five
camps along the South West Ridge. Base Camp on October 4th at
4575 meters, Advanced Base Camp on October 6th at 5400 meters,
Camp 1 on October 14th at 5750 meters, Camp 2 on October 17th at
6000 meters and Camp 3 on October 20th at 6300 meters.
The following members summited.
21st October: Tom Lannamann,
Stuart MacCrimmon, Andy Prentice, Ian Prentice and Jon Briggs,
with Tek Bahadur.
22nd October: Markus Staehelin,
Jay Reilly, Mick Long and Paul Mitterbacher, with Lakpa Sherpa
and Galu Sherpa
24th October: Ken Stalter, Tom
Taplin, Randy Murphy, Patrick Bernier, Roland DeBare and Daniel
Mazur, with Jangbu Sherpa and Shera Sherpa.
In general, route conditions
were very cold and windy. Wind chill on the summit was
substantial. An unusually large amount of snow on the upper
mountain also made climbing difficult especially for the first
summiteers. We benefited greatly from a strong Sherpa staff and
superb Base Camp, trekking, and Kathmandu support courtesy of
Parivar Trekking of Nepal.
With old rope remaining from
previous years, and plenty of use of this year's ropes, the
route, especially between camps 1 and 2, was not always in
absolute perfect condition. Still, we did our best to maintain
all possible safety procedures and managed to escape with only a
few minor mishaps, and neither serious injuries nor accidents.
We are also proud to have
donated a computer to the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee
(SPCC), courtesy of Rudy Zuber of Switzerland and Kevin Donovan
of Texas. We look forward to future co-operation between
mountaineering expeditions in Nepal and the SPCC, the Guardians
of the Highest Place on Earth.
For our next phase of the
expedition, Tom Lannaman, Daniel Mazur, Jangbu Sherpa, and Lakpa
Sherpa will begin climbing the rarely seen and little known
North Ridge of Ama Dablam on 1 November, in just a few days.
Please stay tuned to EverestNews.com for the latest dispatches
of their progress on this extremely difficult ridge.
Our Sincere Thanks to all of
the loved ones, family members, friends, charitable donors,
sponsors, our excellent dedicated staff, internet providers,
media hosts, Alpine Club and mountaineering membership
organizations, the Nepalese people and Government, our agents,
and those too numerous to mention who are making these
expeditions possible in a careful and efficient way, with
absolute respect for the local people and environments.
We look forward to our return
to the HOTEL NEPA to visit Bidya Sagar Tuladhar, in Thamel,
At this juncture, we would like
to offer a prayer courtesy of Doctor Robert Davidson, a friend
of Ken Stalter's:
"My child, preserve sound
judgment and discernment, do not let them out of your sight;
they will be life for you, a (Dablam) ornament to grace your
neck. Then you will go on your way in safety, and your foot will
not stumble; when you lie down...you will not be afraid, and
your sleep will be sweet." Proverbs 3:21-24(NIV)
Om Mani Padmi Hom (Hale to the
jewel in the lotus.) -Buddha
Ps. We wish to extend further
thanks to Miki and Rolf and everyone at Amical Expeditions, for
their fine cooperation, also we wish to thank for their
excellent cooperation: Anselme Baud, Frederic, Sebastien,
Florence, Alexia, Guillaume, Vincent, and all of our superbe
amis Savoiards - Morsinaise!
Pps. Please watch this January
and February for Daniel's video-slide-multi-media lectures
across Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and all across Great Britain.
We look forward to seeing you there for an entertaining and
lively show with lots of questions and discussion!!!
Die zweite Gruppe erreicht den
Am Vortag stiegen wir erstmals
von Camp 2 (6000m) zu Camp 3 (6300m). Fantastisch steile
Eiskletterei, eine luftige Traverse ,ein heikler Anstieg durch
tiefen griessigen Schnee und schliesslich der beruehmte Pilzgrat
fuehrten zum Camp3. Hier ueberstanden wir mehr schlecht als
recht eine stuermische Nacht: staendig drueckten die vereisten
Zeltwaende in die Gesichter der Teilnehmer, die zu schlafen
versuchten. Am 22. Oktober schliesslich erreichten Paul (63J (!)
aus Oesterreich), Mick (Irland), Markus (Schweiz), Gay (Australien)
und zwei Sherpa den Gipfel mit einer Prachtsaussicht auf Everest
im Norden und Makalu im Osten. Ein grosses Dankeschoen an dieser
Stelle an Michi Woertl (AMICAL-Expedition), welcher zuvor heikle
Passagen absicherte. Ebenfalls ein Gruss geht an Markus Reich (Leiter
einer Expedition aus Oesterreich).
Staehelin aus der Schweiz.
Best Regards From All Of US on the
Ama Dablam Expedition from www.summitclimb.com