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Ama Dablam Autumn 2002

Dan Mazur and his Autumn 2002 Ama Dablam

10/22/02: Another successful day for some Members on the mountain. Jay Reilly, Mick Long, Markus Steihnlen, Paul Mitterbacher along with Sherpas, Galu and Lahkpa summited today. The weather was clear, but very cold and windy, with close to 100 knot winds raking camp 3 and the summit. Tom Boylston and Andy Hilton did not sleep well and didn't feel strong enough to attempt the summit. Christian Rodenbeck turned back shortly after departure from camp 3.
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Meanwhile, the summit team from the day before made their way all the way down to base camp. There was a very tense moment, however in their descent - last year's old frayed rope Ian Prentice was rappelling on snapped, but luckily for him he had a separate safety line attached to this year's rope which arrested his fall. Each member has been explicitly instructed to take extreme care between camp 1 and 2, and to use only the new ropes from this year. There are a few ropes from last year left, but we tried to cut the majority away with our rope-knives.

Another team, consisting of Dan, Roland, Patrick, Randy, Ken, Tom Taplin, Jangbu and Ang Shera Sherpa are making their way to camp 2 today for their summit bid in 1 day's time.

All the best for now, from all of us at the Ama Dablam Expedition

10/23: Jay Reilly made it safely down to Camp 1 today after another windy, sleepless night at Camp 3. Mick Long and Paul Mitterbacher pushed all the way to Base camp, arriving safely at 6.30pm.

The final team of Dan, Randy, Roland, Patrick, Ken and Tom Taplin, arrived at camp 3 this afternoon. They will attempt the summit tomorrow. Rex, unfortunately had to abandon his summit bid, because Pemba Sherpa, our kitchen boy in ABC, cut his hand very badly. Rex accompanied him to base camp where he was put back together again by Ken, Brian, and Andy, our team of three fine doctors.

All the best for now, from all of us at the Ama Dablam Expedition

10/24: Yet another successful day for our team members, with Randy Murphy, Patrick Bernier, Ken Stalter, Roland Debare, Tom Taplin, Dan Mazur, Ang Shera Sherpa and Jangbu Sherpa all reaching the summit. This was Ang Shera's first ever climb of Ama Dablam. He is a Climbing Sherpa in training, and he couldn't have a much better mentor than veteran Sherpa, Jangbu.

Conditions were very similar for this team - clear skies, but high winds and cold temperatures. Patrick proposed to his girlfriend Karine over the satellite phone from the summit - and she accepted!

After their climb, the team then broke camp 3 and cleaned up all rubbish, then descended to Camp 2 - a massive day! Everyone was exhausted, especially Jangbu, Shera, Dan and Tom who didn't make it to camp 2 until 7.30pm. The entire team is totally focused on safety and "cleaning" the mountain on the way down. This is is the most important part of the climb, getting back down from the summit in total safety with extra cleanliness in cleaning up our own rubbish, as well as that of others. Galu, Lahkpa and Tek have gone back up to camp 1 today, to help the descending team, assist with cleaning the mountain and carrying tents, and all equipment, as well as the debris left by others.

Jay Reilly made it safely down from camp 1 this afternoon. He had to wait till Rex kindly brought his hiking boots to camp 1 after they were mistakenly taken down by overzealous cleanup Sherpas the day before.

Thank you from all of us on Ama Dablam.

Greetings from the International Ama Dablam 2002 Expedition, organized by SummitClimb.Com under the leadership of Daniel Mazur, Rex Dougherty, and Jay Reilly, all assisted by the People and Government of Nepal, Parivar Trekking of Nepal, Patagonia.com and Ozark Gear, missing our friends at Blue Sheep Adventures. We are proud to report that fifteen of our twenty five members have reached the summit of 6856 meter Ama Dablam. We set up five camps along the South West Ridge. Base Camp on October 4th at 4575 meters, Advanced Base Camp on October 6th at 5400 meters, Camp 1 on October 14th at 5750 meters, Camp 2 on October 17th at 6000 meters and Camp 3 on October 20th at 6300 meters.

The following members summited.

21st October: Tom Lannamann, Stuart MacCrimmon, Andy Prentice, Ian Prentice and Jon Briggs, with Tek Bahadur.

22nd October: Markus Staehelin, Jay Reilly, Mick Long and Paul Mitterbacher, with Lakpa Sherpa and Galu Sherpa

24th October: Ken Stalter, Tom Taplin, Randy Murphy, Patrick Bernier, Roland DeBare and Daniel Mazur, with Jangbu Sherpa and Shera Sherpa.

In general, route conditions were very cold and windy. Wind chill on the summit was substantial. An unusually large amount of snow on the upper mountain also made climbing difficult especially for the first summiteers. We benefited greatly from a strong Sherpa staff and superb Base Camp, trekking, and Kathmandu support courtesy of Parivar Trekking of Nepal.

With old rope remaining from previous years, and plenty of use of this year's ropes, the route, especially between camps 1 and 2, was not always in absolute perfect condition. Still, we did our best to maintain all possible safety procedures and managed to escape with only a few minor mishaps, and neither serious injuries nor accidents.

We are also proud to have donated a computer to the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC), courtesy of Rudy Zuber of Switzerland and Kevin Donovan of Texas. We look forward to future co-operation between mountaineering expeditions in Nepal and the SPCC, the Guardians of the Highest Place on Earth.

For our next phase of the expedition, Tom Lannaman, Daniel Mazur, Jangbu Sherpa, and Lakpa Sherpa will begin climbing the rarely seen and little known North Ridge of Ama Dablam on 1 November, in just a few days. Please stay tuned to EverestNews.com for the latest dispatches of their progress on this extremely difficult ridge.

Our Sincere Thanks to all of the loved ones, family members, friends, charitable donors, sponsors, our excellent dedicated staff, internet providers, media hosts, Alpine Club and mountaineering membership organizations, the Nepalese people and Government, our agents, and those too numerous to mention who are making these expeditions possible in a careful and efficient way, with absolute respect for the local people and environments.

We look forward to our return to the HOTEL NEPA to visit Bidya Sagar Tuladhar, in Thamel, Kathmandu.

At this juncture, we would like to offer a prayer courtesy of Doctor Robert Davidson, a friend of Ken Stalter's:

"My child, preserve sound judgment and discernment, do not let them out of your sight; they will be life for you, a (Dablam) ornament to grace your neck. Then you will go on your way in safety, and your foot will not stumble; when you lie down...you will not be afraid, and your sleep will be sweet." Proverbs 3:21-24(NIV)

Om Mani Padmi Hom (Hale to the jewel in the lotus.) -Buddha

Ps. We wish to extend further thanks to Miki and Rolf and everyone at Amical Expeditions, for their fine cooperation, also we wish to thank for their excellent cooperation: Anselme Baud, Frederic, Sebastien, Florence, Alexia, Guillaume, Vincent, and all of our superbe amis Savoiards - Morsinaise!

Pps. Please watch this January and February for Daniel's video-slide-multi-media lectures across Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and all across Great Britain. We look forward to seeing you there for an entertaining and lively show with lots of questions and discussion!!!

Die zweite Gruppe erreicht den Gipfel!

Am Vortag stiegen wir erstmals von Camp 2 (6000m) zu Camp 3 (6300m). Fantastisch steile Eiskletterei, eine luftige Traverse ,ein heikler Anstieg durch tiefen griessigen Schnee und schliesslich der beruehmte Pilzgrat fuehrten zum Camp3. Hier ueberstanden wir mehr schlecht als recht eine stuermische Nacht: staendig drueckten die vereisten Zeltwaende in die Gesichter der Teilnehmer, die zu schlafen versuchten. Am 22. Oktober schliesslich erreichten Paul (63J (!) aus Oesterreich), Mick (Irland), Markus (Schweiz), Gay (Australien) und zwei Sherpa den Gipfel mit einer Prachtsaussicht auf Everest im Norden und Makalu im Osten. Ein grosses Dankeschoen an dieser Stelle an Michi Woertl (AMICAL-Expedition), welcher zuvor heikle Passagen absicherte. Ebenfalls ein Gruss geht an Markus Reich (Leiter einer Expedition aus Oesterreich).

Viele Gruesse..................Markus Staehelin aus der Schweiz.

Best Regards From All Of US on the Ama Dablam Expedition from www.summitclimb.com

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