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Ama Dablam Autumn 2002

Dan Mazur and his Autumn 2002 Ama Dablam

After our return to flat ground, there has been time to reflect. Well, after climbing together with 15 members and 5 Sherpas to the 6800 meter Ama Dablam's summit, via the south west ridge (normal route), several of us decided to try something harder, and we guessed that the next most "climbable" route would be the north ridge, as it is called. Our four person team went back to Kathmandu to say good bye to our normal-route-friends, and then returned to the peaceful Khumbu Valley to give it a go. We thought we would be super acclimated from climbing the normal route, so would be able to climb the north ridge in 5 days or so. We followed the following schedule:
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Mazur Ama Dablam 2002
Mazur Ama Dablam Dispatches
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Mazur Ama Dablam Route
Dan Mazur
Autumn Everest 2002
1 November, flight ktm to lukla, sleep in monjo

2 November, monjo to thyangboche

3 November, thyangboche to dingboche

4 November, dingboche to base camp (5100 m) at the base of the north ridge 5 November, climbing on rocks and grass and a few slabs to 5300 m 6 November, climbing tricky slabs to 5550 m 7 November, climbing hard pitches to 5750 m, return to 5550 m to sleep 8 November, climbing hard pitches to 5875 m, return to 5550 m to sleep 9 November, walk down to dingboche 10 November, walk down to kangjoma 11 November, walk down to lukla 12 November, fly lukla to ktm

To sum up, the climbing was hard and technical, and Tom Lannamann led most of it, while Daniel Mazur, Jangbu Sherpa and Lakpa Sherpa followed. In the beginning they tried hauling ruck sacks, which was slow. Finally, on 7 November, they realized that provisions (cooking fuel and food) were running short, and that it would take three days to resupply the team. It seemed that an additional 8 days of food and fuel would be needed. Thus, it was deemed best to halt the climb at this point, so that the team can return next year for a proper 14 day expedition (already acclimated) on this very exciting route, the North Ridge of Ama Dablam, 1 November - 22 November, 2003. Please join us for the excitement!

Thank you very much. Cheers for now, and we await your reply. Yours Sincerely, from Daniel Mazur and all of us at http://www.SummitClimb.com

PS. We have just returned from climbing in Nepal, on 6800 meter Ama Dablam, Asia's most famous rock, ice, and snow peak. 15 of our members reached the summit, with the assistance of a dedicated team of Sherpas, climbing together with expedition leader Daniel Mazur. Now we are home and working to make up the time with our families and our jobs... But, we are already planning our future climbs of:

Pumori, one of Nepal's easier 7200 metre peaks, lies next to Mount Everest, 15 March - 15 April, 2003.

Manaslu, eighth highest in the world. Located near Annapurna. An ideal introduction to 8000 metre peak climbing. 15 March to 1 June, 2003.

Ama Dablam, Asia’s most famous snow-rock-ice climb. South-West Ridge (Normal Route): 1 October to 1 November, 2003.

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