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Autumn
Everest 2001: The American-Canadian Expedition
The
Team
Name:
Ed
Hommer
Birthdate:
November
19, 1955
Birthplace:
Manistee,
Michigan
Residence:
Duluth,
Minnesota
Family:
Three
children: Carmen, Mitch and Garrison
Education:
U.S.
Army 1974-1978; Paratrooper Flight School,
Grand Rapids, Michigan; Northern Warfare
Training Center, Alaska
Occupation:
MD-80
First Officer for American Airlines, May
2000-present
Work
history:
Pilot,
American Eagle, 1985-2000; Bush Pilot,
Alaska, 1980-81
Personal
Hero:
Mother
Theresa. Look at what one frail
little lady did for the world.
Accomplishments:
First
double amputee to summit Mt. McKinley in
1999; Founder of High Exposure Inc. -- a
foundation that provides amputees with
prosthetics that return them to their
original level of activity, trains
Nepalese doctors in prosthetics fitting
and supplies devices to clinics in
Kathmandu; Author of The Hill,
publication date Fall 2001
How
long Ive
been a mountain climber:
25
years
How
I became
part of this expedition:
I
was drawn to the high adventure and lured
by the remote regions of the world,
unknown to man.
Responsibilities
on
the expedition:
To
organize the expedition. Put together a
team with complementary skills, organize
the logistics and raise funds for the
expedition.
Goals
for the expedition:
To
be the first double amputee to summit
Mount Everest
What
the expedition
means to me:
To
make a bold statement about the
possibilities and capabilities of
physically challenged people. To make a
"handicap" something that only
golfers talk about.
Childhood
memory:
Fishing
with my father on the
Manistee River
Hobbies:
Hiking,
downhill and cross country skiing,
bicycling, ice climbing
Interesting
fact
about myself:
I'll
get back to you on that one!
Favorite
Author:
James
Michener
Favorite
Food:
BBQ
ribs (I make GREAT BBQ ribs)
Favorite
TV Show:
History
Channel or National Geographic Explorer
Favorite
Music:
Bob
Dylan (a Minnesota guy)
Favorite
Movie:
Jeremiah
Johnson
Name:
Scott
W. Anderson
Birthdate:
December
4, 1968
Birthplace:
New
Ulm, Minnesota
Residence:
Two
Harbors, Minnesota
Family:
Parents
Cliff and Jean. Older brother Steve,
sister-in-law Denise, niece Brianna. Older
sister Sue, brother-in-law Peter, nieces
Sojna and Kari.
Education:
New
Ulm High School; National Outdoor
Leadership School (NOLS); Life
Occupation:
Product
Development at Granite Gear
Work
history:
Granite
Gear since June 1991
Personal
Hero:
Ed
Hommer
Accomplishments:
My
biggest accomplishment so far is climbing
Mt. Tharpa Chuli in Nepal with Ed Hommer
and the rest of the team. I also consider
myself to be a good friend and a decent
human being.
How
long Ive
been a mountain climber:
I've
been recreational rock climbing for
approximately 11 years. My first big
hike/climb was Long's Peak in Colorado in
1987. My first major climb was last year
when I climbed Mt. Tharpa Chuli.
How
I became interested in mountain climbing:
I
really enjoy the hard work of mountain
climbing. It is a sport that forces you to
totally depend on others for your safety.
Because of this there is an amazing
camaraderie among climbers. I also love
the views and dealing with the unexpected.
How
I became
part of this expedition:
Sheer
Luck. I worked on filming with Ed in the
Alaska Range last year on the south face
of the Mooses Tooth.
Responsibilities
on
the expedition:
Building
and carrying packs, planning the food for
the entire expedition, hauling loads up
and down the mountain. I will do my part
to be a good representative of the United
States and all of our sponsors. And most
importantly, I will help keep a good,
positive attitude throughout the
expedition.
Goals
for the expedition:
My
number one goal is to see that Ed is the
first double amputee to climb Mt. Everest.
To stay in good health and get as high as
I can. To learn as much as possible about
mountaineering from the best.
What
the expedition
means to me:
To
encourage people with amputations to get
out and resume their active lifestyle;
stop hating the world and make it your
playground. It may not be climbing
mountains, but walking down the street or
playing catch with your child. The whole
expedition is about showing people the
possibilities of life without limitations.
This is a lesson that can benefit anyone,
not just those who are physically
challenged.
How
I know
Ed Hommer:
I
met Ed in 1999 when he was preparing to
climb Mt. McKinley. He came to Granite
Gear to try on some packs and to look at
other products for his climb.
Childhood
memory:
I
was afraid of Mickey Mouse when we went to
Disneyland. I cried for hours.
Hobbies:
Telemark
skiing, ice climbing, sea
kayaking/surfing, canoeing whitewater,
backpacking, mountain biking, hunting,
fishing, napping in the sun.
Interesting
fact
about myself:
I
snore very well.
Favorite
Book:
The
Monkey Wrench Gang by Ed Abby
Favorite
Food:
Shore
lunch with fresh walleye on an island in
the Quetico
Favorite
TV Show:
NOVA
Favorite
Music:
Neil
Young
Favorite
Movie:
Jeremiah
Johnson
Name:
Dan
Bronstein
Birthdate:
April
19, 1956
Birthplace:
Philadelphia,
Pennsylvania
Residence:
Basalt,
Colorado
Family:
Wife
Dyan, son Donovan, cat Mickey
Education:
Juris
Doctor, 1990, University of Denver College
of Law
Occupation:
Restaurant
Manager
Work
history:
Restaurant
manager; attorney; climbing guide
Personal
Hero:
Any
of the early polar adventurers: Amundsen,
Scott, Perry, Byrd
Accomplishments:
Married
better than I deserved. I have a
beautiful, healthy son.
How
long Ive
been a mountain climber:
30
years
How
I became interested in mountain climbing:
I
started hiking/camping/climbing with my
father and enjoyed the mountains and
scenery. I also enjoy the individual
challenge.
Responsibilities
on
the expedition:
Photographs,
film and interviews for the expedition and
NBC/Discovery Channel
Goals
for the expedition:
A
safe and healthy climb for all, great
photography and film and to support Ed on
his trip to the summit.
What
the expedition
means to me:
We
all have disabilities that we have to
overcome. Ed is showing us all how far we
can go to overcome them.
How
I know
Ed Hommer:
I
was put in touch with Ed by Greg Howard of
Polaris Pools (one of the expeditions
sponsors). I first met Ed when he came to
Denver for a speaking engagement and slide
show.
Hobbies:
Golf,
biking, swimming
Interesting
fact
about myself:
I
got arrested in Tanzania at the airport
for tearing up some extra currency before
leaving the country.
Favorite
Books:
Mystery
and drama
Favorite
Food:
Steak
Favorite
TV Shows:
Comedies
Favorite
Music:
Country
Music
Favorite
Movie:
Any
animated movie
Name:
Tom
Halverson
Birthdate:
April
8, 1957
Birthplace:
Duluth,
Minnesota
Residence:
Cloquet,
Minnesota
Family:
Three
children: Robert, Jacob and Miranda
Education:
Board
Eligible Prosthetist, 1999; Registered
Orthetic, 1978; Registered Prosthesis
Technician, 1977; Century College,
1975-1977; Cloquet High School, 1975
Occupation:
Prosthetic
and Orthotic Practitioner
Work
history:
Hanger
Prosthetic and Orthotic, 1991 to present;
Northwest Art Limb and Brace, 1978-1991
Accomplishments:
Helped
provide the prosthesis that made it
possible for Ed Hommer to summit Mt.
McKinley in 1999.
How
long Ive
been a mountain climber:
Im
not a mountain climber. Ive done some
ice climbing but nothing extreme.
How
I became
part of this expedition:
Because
of my involvement with his prosthesis, and
our friendship, Ed asked me if I would go
along in case he has problems with his
prosthesis on the lower elevations of the
mountain.
Responsibilities
on
the expedition:
My
main responsibility is ensure that Ed
receives a set of comfortable prosthesis
capable of withstanding the cold and abuse
that he will give them on a high altitude
expedition. I also worked with and
coordinated the efforts by Seattle
Orthopedic Group, Inc., the company
fabricating the custom heated inserts; and
Spring Lite, the company fabricating
Eds custom climbing feet. I am also
coordinating the efforts of Hanger
Prosthetic and Orthotic -- including the
staff of our Duluth and Hibbing offices
who not only help in organization but in
the fabrication of the prosthesis.
Goals
for the expedition:
My
main goal is to help make it possible for
Ed to stand on the summit of Everest and
then return safely. My personal goal is to
climb as high as advanced base camp, which
is approximately 20,000 feet.
What
the expedition
means to me:
To
help bring prosthetic componentry to a
third world country to help the people and
the children. This is what its all
about; and also helping Ed send the
message that people with disabilities can
control their own limitations.
How
I know
Ed Hommer:
In
1983 or 1984 Ed walked into the office
where I worked to see me for a prosthetic
evaluation. He was using crutches and was
walking very poorly. We made him a new set
of prosthesis that worked very well for
him. After a period of time we became
friends.
Childhood
memory:
Going
to the cabin on Cole Lake with my family.
Hobbies:
I
love to hunt, fish, canoe, four wheel and
build things.
Interesting
fact
about myself:
Im
really not too thrilled about heights.
Favorite
Food:
Pappilon
Strawberry Angel Food Cake
Favorite
TV Show:
MASH
Favorite
Music:
County
& Western
Favorite
Movie:
Die
Hard
Name:
Brian
McCullough
Birthdate:
December
7, 1959
Birthplace:
Livermoore,
California
Residence:
Talkeetna,
Alaska
Family:
Two
children: Tenaya (16) is a student at the
Pratt Institute of Art and Design and runs
Denali expeditions, and Natalie (15) who
lives in Seattle.
Occupation:
Custom
home builder; fireplace builder; stone
mason; heavy equipment company owner.
Work
history:
Mountaineering,
guiding
Personal
Hero:
My
dad
Accomplishments:
I
build great houses like the home I live in
now, which includes an oak spiral
staircase and a 35 foot tall Rumford
fireplace with up to 800 pounds of rock. I
am a good dad -- my daughter was president
of her junior class and an all-state
cheerleader. I was very involved in the
development of the Dateline NBC piece
featuring Ed Hommer; I contributed 19
photographs. I rescued a climber on
Denali, one year before he lost both feet
to frostbite on Mt. Everest.
How
long Ive
been a mountain climber:
Since
1974
How
I became interested in mountain climbing:
My
dad was from Alaska and was very
interested in mountaineering. We went out
climbing every weekend.
How
I became
part of this expedition:
Sheer
Luck. I worked on filming with Ed in the
Alaska Range last year on the south face
of the Mooses Tooth.
Responsibilities
on
the expedition:
Take
photographs, break trail, carry load, lead
the route.
Goals
for the expedition:
For
the team to come home safely. To get Ed as
high as possible.
What
the expedition
means to me:
Getting
together with friends; adventure; over
twenty year history with climbing;
celebrating the grand circle of life.
How
I know
Ed Hommer:
I
was one of the rescuers who located Ed
when his plane crashed on Mt. McKinley in
1981.
Childhood
memory:
Family
vacation to Mexico
Hobbies:
Photography
Interesting
fact
about myself:
I
am the strongest guy wherever I go; Ive
never lost in arm wrestling.
Favorite
Authors:
James
Michener and Tom Clancey
Favorite
Food:
Mexican
Favorite
TV Show:
I
dont watch TV.
Favorite
Music:
Natalie
Merchant
Favorite
Movie:
Eiger
Sanction starring Clint Eastwood as an
assassin during a mountain climbing trip
Name:
Kelly
Raymond
Birthdate:
November
30, 1966
Birthplace:
Saskatoon,
Saskatchewan, Canada
Residence:
Sault
Ste. Marie, Ontario, Canada
Family:
Wife
Heather, daughter Jessica.
Education:
OAC,
pre-university program in Canada
Occupation:
Restaurant
manager; ice climbing guide
Personal
Hero:
Alex
Lowe
Accomplishments:
Partnered
with Ed Hommer on a successful summit of
Mt. McKinley, 1999
How
long Ive
been a mountain climber:
11
years
How
I became interested in mountain climbing:
As
a youngster, my mom would take me to local
crags and I would scramble on them.
How
I became
part of this expedition:
I
have been involved in this expedition
since the very beginning.
Goals
for the expedition:
A
safe summit for everyone; a safe return
home; have some fun.
What
the expedition
means to me:
Overcoming
lifeΝs obstacles.
How
I know
Ed Hommer:
Ed
is my main climbing partner.
Childhood
memory:
Long
walks in the forest with my mom and my
brother.
Hobbies:
Cross
country skiing, mountain biking and
swimming
Favorite
Book:
The
Art of War by Sun Tzu
Favorite
Food:
Cheesburgers
Favorite
TV Show:
MASH
Favorite
Music:
Sammy
Haggar
Favorite
Movie:
Beau
Geste and The Man Who Would Be
King
Jim
Sturgis
Name:
Jim
Sturgis
Birthdate:
September
25, 1959
Birthplace:
Atlanta,
Georgia
Residence:
Keller,
Texas
Family:
Wife
Kimberly, son Cameron, daughter Melanie
Education:
A
year and a half at Michigan State
Occupation:
Principal
and founder: CAVOK International, Inc., an
air carrier consulting firm; Nuance
Advertising, LLC, an advertising firm; and
Sirius IT, LLC, an internet technology
training and consulting firm.
Work
history:
Wide
area networking technology consultant; air
carrier management; airline pilot and
instructor; backpack and wilderness guide;
computer programmer; sous-chef; pizza
maker
Personal
Hero:
Ed
Hommer
How
I became
part of this expedition:
I
asked how I could help support the effort.
Responsibilities
on
the expedition:
Procurement
of shipping support (United Parcel
Service) and related coordination,
assisting with initial base camp
establishment and assisting Karl Swanson
with communication and power.
Goals
for the expedition:
A
safe and successful venture for all.
What
the
expedition means
to me:
The
guys climbing this mountain display an
amazing amount of courage, discipline and
intestinal fortitude that should serve as
an inspiration to all, particularly those
with mobility impairments or other
obstacles that tend to be a part of this
great ride called life.
How
I know
Ed Hommer:
Ed
and I worked together at a little airline
called Simmons Airlines in the Upper
Peninsula of Michigan in the late 1980s.
We became good friends, did some fishing
and camping together and even have had a
beer or two together.
Childhood
memory:
Sir
Edmond Hillary spoke at my middle school
in Grand Rapids, Michigan. It was
mesmerizing and left a profound impression
on me as a little kid.
Hobbies:
Cooking,
flying, fishing, camping, golf,
computer/networking systems and
technologies.
Interesting
fact
about myself:
I'll
get back to you on that one!
Favorite
Book:
The
Hunt for Red October
Favorite
Food:
Yes,
in large quantities and well prepared;
particularly salmon.
Name:
Karl
Swanson
Birthdate:
March
11, 1959
Birthplace:
Suburb
of Chicago
Residence:
My
ranch, 14 miles out of Talkeetna, Alaska
Family:
Girlfriend
Heike Merkel, whitewater raft guide and
civil engineer. Two brothers, one
geologist, one lighting tech for traveling
broadway shows. Two traveling parents; I
believe they are in Uzbeckistan now.
Education:
University
of Alaska Anchorage, Bachelors in Business
Administration
Occupation:
Self-employed
mountain guide, accountant and logger
Work
history:
Community
health center manager; auditor; outdoor
equipment sales; carpenter; migrant
laborer
Personal
Hero:
Ed
Hommer
Accomplishments:
Ten
expeditions on Denali (Mt. McKinley).
Climbed three of the seven summits.
How
long Ive
been a mountain climber:
Since
high school
How
I became interested in mountain climbing:
I
grew up hiking in the mountains with my
family.
How
I became
part of this expedition:
Sheer
Luck. I worked on filming with Ed in the
Alaska Range last year on the south face
of the Mooses Tooth.
Responsibilities
on
the expedition:
Communications
and solar power
Goals
for the expedition:
Come
home. Help Ed achieve his goals.
What
the expedition
means to me:
We
all have disabilities that we have to
overcome. Ed is showing us all how far we
can go to overcome them.
How
I know
Ed Hommer:
I'm
a friend and climbing partner of Brian
McCullough.
Childhood
memory:
Family
vacations for me were always wilderness
Alaskan adventures. Usually just the
family would spend a week or two canoeing
down some river in Alaska without seeing
another person.
Hobbies:
Skiing,
orienteering
Favorite
Book:
The
White Spider
Favorite
Food:
Fresh
grouse cooked in red wine
Favorite
TV Show:
None
Favorite
Music:
World
Music
Favorite
Movie:
The
Man Who Would Be King
Name:
Jim
Wickwire
Birthdate:
June
8, 1940
Birthplace:
Wenatchee,
Washington
Residence:
Seattle,
Washington
Family:
Wife
of 39 years, Mary Lou. Five children:
Anne, Cathy, Susan, Bob, David. Twin
granddaughters: Ana, Emma
Education:
Gonzaga
University, BA; Gonzaga University, JD
Occupation:
Part-time
lawyer in solo practice
Work
history:
Private
law practice in Seattle since 1968. Most
recently with the firm of Wickwire,
Greene, Crosby, Brewer & Seward, which
disbanded Nov. 2000; Legislative assistant
to U.S. Senator Henry M. Jackson,
Washington, D.C., 1967-1968
Personal
Hero:
Naomi
Uemura, the great Japanese
climber-adventurer who disappeared near
the summit of Mt. McKinley in February
1984 after making the first winter solo
ascent of the mountain.
Accomplishments:
One
of the first two Americans to climb K2,
the worlds second highest mountain,
1978
How
long Ive
been a mountain climber:
Since
1960, encompassing over 20 expeditions
How
I became interested in mountain climbing:
As
a teenager reading about mountaineering
expeditions to Everest, K2 and Annapurna
How
I became
part of this expedition:
After
Ed and I got to know each other, he asked
me to become the leader of the expedition
based on my prior Everest experience in
1982, 1984 and 1993.
Responsibilities
on
the expedition:
Leader
Goals
for the expedition:
To
do everything possible to see that Ed
realizes his dream to climb Everest. First
and foremost is for everyone to have a
great experience on the mountain and to
return home safe and sound.
What
the expedition
means to me:
A
chance to be on an expedition with some
very good people; to return to Everest and
to see Tibet and its people again.
How
I know
Ed Hommer:
I
read about Eds 1998 attempt to summit
Mt. McKinley. I contacted him because I
had a similar tragic experience on Mt.
McKinleys Peters Glacier in May 1981.
My companion and I fell into a crevasse
and he perished. That was the same year as
Eds crash on Kahiltna Pass.
Childhood
memory:
How
clumsy I was growing up and trying to
become a passable athlete.
Hobbies:
Avid
baseball fan (Seattle Mariners), book
collector