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Himalayan Experience Everest Expedition 2001

Dispatches are here.

Himalayan Experience will again lead a group of climbers into Tibet and attempt to reach the Summit of Everest.  

You drive to the BC at 5400m and from there we travel by yaks 22 km to the ABC at 6400m.  They put an interim camp on the glacier about half way between BC and ABC, so this trip takes two days. 

From ABC the route continues up the East Rongbuk glacier to the neve of the glacier and then up easy snow slopes to the North Col at 7000m where camp 1 is situated on snow. There is a long reasonably angled snow slope to 7400m where they plan to put camp 2 on snow.  The route from C2 to C3 is up a series of rock and shingle steps, again all very easy terrain to walk on.

Camp 3 will be at 7900m on rock. From C3 the route traverses across a series of rock steps and then up medium angled snow slopes and then again on mixed rock and snow to the camp 4 at 8400m.  This camp is normally on rock, but some years there is snow cover here. There will be a fixed rope from the neve to this point. Although you may not need this to assist with climbing it does, however provide a safety line which is useful when you are tired and when the wind is blowing.  This route is traditionally very windy, especially between C2 and C3. 

The summit day is from C4. The route is up mixed rock and snow steps to the NE ridge.  These steps are quite steep in places and require considerable care especially as you now have all of your bulky clothing and oxygen equipment on. 

The NE ridge is quite wide with small steps and there is little height gain until the First Step. The First Step is a short rock buttress which will be fixed with rope.  Above here the climbing is more exposed but again without much height gain until the Second Step.  The second step is across a series of small ledges which are sometimes snow covered, then around a large boulder and then up the ladder. They will attempt to have all of this section fixed with rope. Above this step there is again relatively gentle mixed ground until what is called the Third Step.  Although not as serious as the previous steps, there will again be an attempt to fix rope to the col before the final summit snow slopes. These are quite steep and also have fixed rope to the rock buttress from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to the summit. Of course this description can vary according to the snow conditions that they will experience this coming season. 

RUSSELL BRICE will lead this expedition assisted by head guide Chris Warner and others. Expect more details soon with full dispatches from Everest during the climb on EverestNews.com. 

Dispatches >>>            The Team

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