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 Al Filo de lo imposible (Everest North Expedition)

News: 2/24/2001 Sources report to EverestNews.com that Juanito Oiarzabal is attempting to climb the 7 summits in less than 10 months, including an oxygen-less ascent of Everest this spring. Juanito, is one of only 7 men (no women) to complete the 14 8000 meter peaks to their true (highest) summits. Juanito, reached the Summit of Everest on Oct 7th, 1993 but with the use of oxygen. He would like to Summit Everest this time without the use of oxygen. Few non-Sherpa climbers have summited Everest without oxygen and made it back down to tell about it. 

Update: 3/8/2001

Everest North side:  A big team from the Spanish TV (TVE), led by Sebastian Alvaro - producer of the successful format "Al Filo de lo Imposible" will attempt again (they were there also the last year) the north ridge, making a film during the climb. This is a FOCUS WORLD EXPEDITION. 

The intent of this expedition concerning "Mallory & Irvine" is not know by EverestNews.com at this point. Their 2000 Everest expedition was extremely interesting with the intention to recreate the ascent of 1924 of Mallory and Irvine of Everest. Juan Oiarzabal, "To the Edge of The Impossible" or AL FILO DE LO IMPOSIBLE in Spanish 2000 Expedition information is here

Update: Juanito Oiarzabal, who has summited all 14 8000 meter peaks, has now reached the Summit of Everest without oxygen! His previous Summit of Everest was with the use of oxygen...

Several Spanish sources have helped with his story as this is huge news in Spain. Juanito was LIVE on Spanish TV and radio from the Summit. 

Now for the details, some of which are sketchy: Al Filo de lo imposible (North Expedition) 23th May: Climbers Josu Bereciartua, Ferran Latorre, Juanjo Garra, Juan Vallejo and Juanito Oiarzabal departed for the Summit at 10 pm. 22nd May (Chinese time) for the Summit from Camp III (8300 m) all without supplemental oxygen. Reports -30ΊC - 35Ί C Also departing is Mingma Sherpa using oxygen. At 8500 meters Josu Bereciartua and Juanjo Garra retreat. Ferran Latorre also climb down to camp III at the same time due to illness.

Juan Vallejo and Juanito Oiarzabal continue to the summit without oxygen. Mingma Sherpa continues using oxygen. Juan Vallejo reaches the Summit at 11.10 am 23th May (Chinese time) and contacts by radio the CBA. Juanito Oiarzabal arrives at Everest Summit at 12.10 pm 23th May and also contacts the CBA and Base Camp by radio and live on Spanish TV!!! He sounds in good shape and loud voice. Very happy. Just at the beginning of the 3rd Step he falls and has snow blindness. With partial vision in only one eye, he tried to descend to Camp III accompanied by Mingma Sherpa. The descent becomes hard. [We have an unconfirmed report that Americans run into him and call for assistance.] Two more sherpas immediately begin to climb from camp III to assist him if needed with sleeping bag, drinks and using oxygen. Also three climbers from University of Valencia Expedition (Endika and Jorge confirmed) start to climb from Camp III to collaborate to help if needed (risking your own summit attempt, scheduled for 24th). After a hard and combined effort, Juanito is reported alive and safe, but practically without vision and very tired at Camp III. He arrived there very late, in the dark. It's confirmed that Juanito has refused all the time to use supplemental oxygen, in order to validate his ascent like oxygenless. 

Confirmed at 17.50 pm 23th May Spanish time, that Juanito is safe and recuperating very well at Camp III (8.300 m.). It's reported that he have refused again to use supplemental oxygen to recuperate. These reports also confirmed that the Sherpa that summited with Juanito (Mingma Sherpa) was in bad shape after the summit, but also managed to reach Camp III late in the day.

University of Valencia Expedition: As reported, the three members (Endika, Jorge and David) have aided Juanito at Camp III upon returning in bad shape and scheduled to begin their summit attempt in a couple of hours (on oxygen).

Al Filo is on the web here. This story is everywhere in Spain...

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