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Al
Filo de lo imposible (Everest North Expedition)
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News:
2/24/2001 Sources report to EverestNews.com that Juanito
Oiarzabal is attempting to climb the 7 summits in less
than 10 months, including an oxygen-less ascent of
Everest this spring. Juanito, is one of only 7 men (no
women) to complete the 14 8000
meter peaks to their true (highest) summits.
Juanito, reached the Summit of Everest on Oct 7th,
1993 but with the use of oxygen. He would like to
Summit Everest this time without the use of oxygen.
Few non-Sherpa climbers have summited Everest without
oxygen and made it back down to tell about it.
Update:
3/8/2001
Everest
North side: A big team from the Spanish TV
(TVE), led by Sebastian Alvaro - producer of the
successful format "Al Filo de lo Imposible"
will attempt again (they were there also the last
year) the north ridge, making a film during the climb.
This is a FOCUS WORLD EXPEDITION.
The
intent of this expedition concerning "Mallory
& Irvine" is not know by EverestNews.com at
this point. Their 2000 Everest expedition was
extremely interesting with the intention to recreate the
ascent of 1924 of Mallory and Irvine of Everest.
Juan Oiarzabal, "To
the Edge of The Impossible" or AL FILO DE LO IMPOSIBLE in Spanish
2000 Expedition information is here.
Update:
Juanito
Oiarzabal, who has summited all 14
8000 meter peaks, has now reached the Summit of
Everest without oxygen! His previous Summit of Everest
was with the use of oxygen...
Several
Spanish sources have helped with his story as this is
huge news in Spain. Juanito was LIVE on Spanish TV and
radio from the Summit.
Now
for the details, some of which are sketchy: Al Filo de
lo imposible (North Expedition) 23th May: Climbers
Josu Bereciartua, Ferran Latorre, Juanjo Garra, Juan
Vallejo and Juanito Oiarzabal departed for the Summit
at 10 pm. 22nd May (Chinese time) for the Summit from
Camp III (8300 m) all without supplemental oxygen.
Reports -30ΊC - 35Ί C Also departing is Mingma
Sherpa using oxygen. At 8500 meters Josu Bereciartua
and Juanjo Garra retreat. Ferran Latorre also climb
down to camp III at the same time due to illness.
Juan
Vallejo and Juanito Oiarzabal continue to the summit
without oxygen. Mingma Sherpa continues using oxygen.
Juan Vallejo reaches the Summit at 11.10 am 23th May
(Chinese time) and contacts by radio the CBA. Juanito
Oiarzabal arrives at Everest Summit at 12.10 pm 23th
May and also contacts the CBA and Base Camp by radio
and live on Spanish TV!!! He sounds in good shape and
loud voice. Very happy. Just at the beginning of the
3rd Step he falls and has snow blindness. With partial
vision in only one eye, he tried to descend to Camp
III accompanied by Mingma Sherpa. The descent becomes
hard. [We have an unconfirmed report that Americans
run into him and call for assistance.] Two more
sherpas immediately begin to climb from camp III to
assist him if needed with sleeping bag, drinks and
using oxygen. Also three climbers from University of
Valencia Expedition (Endika and Jorge confirmed) start
to climb from Camp III to collaborate to help if
needed (risking your own summit attempt, scheduled for
24th). After a hard and combined effort, Juanito
is reported alive and safe, but practically without
vision and very tired at Camp III. He arrived there
very late, in the dark. It's confirmed that Juanito
has refused all the time to use supplemental oxygen,
in order to validate his ascent like oxygenless.
Confirmed
at 17.50 pm 23th May Spanish time, that Juanito is
safe and recuperating very well at Camp III (8.300
m.). It's reported that he have refused again to use
supplemental oxygen to recuperate. These reports also
confirmed that the Sherpa that summited with Juanito
(Mingma Sherpa) was in bad shape after the summit,
but also managed to reach Camp III late in the day.
University
of Valencia Expedition: As reported, the three members
(Endika, Jorge and David) have aided Juanito at Camp
III upon returning in bad shape and scheduled to begin
their summit attempt in a couple of hours (on oxygen).
Al
Filo is on the web here. This story is everywhere in
Spain...
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