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In Spring of 2000, EverestNews.com
will follow an International Expedition attempting the Summit of Annapurna. This is the Spring 2000 Annapurna
Page where EverestNews.com will report News on this expedition and other Annapurna News.
Three Expeditions are
expected on Annapurna this Spring 2000:
| Royal
Exp' Annapurna 2000 Spain |
Annapurna
I |
North
Face |
Josep
A. Pujante |
Spain |
| French
Annapurna I (GMHM) Exp'. |
Annapurna
I |
North
Face |
Thierry
Bolo |
France |
| International
Annapurna I Expedition |
Annapurna
I |
N.
Face |
Edmund
Viesturs |
USA |
- Annapurna Spring 2000: Dispatch One:
EverestNews.com will follow the
attempt on Annapurna of a International Expedition; "International Annapurna
2000"
After five years of work, the
" Expedition the International Annapurna 2000 " sponsored by the Port of Barcelona, will leave tomorrow for Nepal, the country in which the team will attempt the ascent of the Annapurna,
8091 meters, in celebration of the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of a mountain greater
than 8000 meters. The team has High
Sponsorship of Carlos I of Spain and His
Majesty Birendra Bir of Nepal and leadership
by the mythical mountain climber and ex-French minister Maurice Herzog along with the Catalan Josep Antoni Pujante. The group will celebrate by climbing the most dangerous mountain of the
14 that are higher than 8000 meters, the
feat that first occurred on June 3rd 1950 by the team of Maurice Herzog & Louis Lachenal.
The greatest enemy once at base camp will be the avalanches that with take place on Annapurna. The avalanches have taken the lives of many of the
climbers that have dared to reach its
highest point. In order to minimize the danger, the climbers will study the daily itinerary in
an attempt to follow the route that was completed in 1950 by
the team of Herzog-Lachenal.
In
addition to the climb, the team will seek to complete the management of the
construction of a health center and the coordination of a search for a Catalan Joan
Carrillo who disappeared the last December when solo ascending Cho Oyu. These are
the objectives of the team formed in addition by the Turk Yasar Ugur Uluocak,
the Basque Josu Feijoo, the Catalans: Jep Tapias, Joaquim Molins, and Xavier Arias,
Paschal Borja of Madrid, climber from Nepal Ang Phurba, Dawa Sherpa, Chuldim Sherpa
and Dawa Sherpa. The team will be received in Kathmandu by His Majesty the king of the
Nepal and once the official proceedings are complete, the team will start the
approach towards the Base Camp, that will last about 8 days and that will allow for
the initial acclimatization.
Their web site: www.interofer.es/annapurna2000
- Annapurna Spring 2000: Second Dispatch
EverestNews.com will follow the
attempt on Annapurna of a International Expedition: "International Annapurna 2000
Expedition"
Today the expedition started off
for Nepal, with the objectives : to reach the top of first the 8000 conquered, to manage
the construction of a health center and to search the mountain for a Catalan climber that
disappeared while climbing Annapurna earlier. Maurice Herzog & Louis Lachenal first
reached the Summit of Annapurna in 1950 .
- Annapurna Spring 2000: Third
Dispatch
EverestNews.com will follow the
attempt on Annapurna of the "International Annapurna 2000Expedition":
The members of the expedition have
been received in the real Palace of Katmandu by S. Magestad King Birendra Bir. He
delivered them a flag of Nepal. The head of the expedition Pujante Josep gave to S.M. King
Birendra Bir a letter that King of Spain Juan Carlos I, had trusted to him. The
expedition gave some presents to King Birandra who paid tribute to the fact that the
3rd of June of 1950 marked a landmark in the history of the humanity. (The first Summit of
an 8000 meter peak.)
Ugur
Uluocak, a climber from Turkey, who is part of this expedition, has been delayed in
arriving due to airline problems.
Their web site: www.interofer.es/annapurna2000 with
reports in Spanish, Pictures and more ! A very nice site.
- Annapurna Spring 2000: Dispatch 4,
Short and Sweet
EverestNews.com will follow the
attempt on Annapurna of the "International Annapurna 2000Expedition":
The Annapurna Expedition is
reporting in that they have reached a point where they can see mountain. Annapurna is "not loading with snow". They are very excited about this !
Their web site: www.interofer.es/annapurna2000 with
reports in Spanish, Pictures and more ! A very nice site.
Asian-Trekking is reporting that
along the many expeditions that they are supporting this Spring 2000 is :
"International Annapurna Expedition led by Ed Viesturs, 1 American + 1 Canadian + 1
Finish (Veikka Gustafsson)."
The Inurrategi Brothers (Alberto
& Felix) will be on Annapurna this Spring with many other climbers expected, timed for the 50th anniversary of the
first summit. The Inurrategi Brothers
now plan to Summit Manaslu, then Annapurna, and G1 & G2 this year completing the
14 8000 meter peaks. None of their
Summits are disputed. In the next few days, EverestNews.com will post all climbers who
have completed 10 or more Summits of the 14 8000 meter peaks.
- Annapurna Spring 2000: 3/31/2000
The expedition of Port of
Barcelona, completed a new stage.
Weather: sun and heat (35 Cs)
Location of Expedition: In
Kopchepani, a village located on the Annapurna circuit
Next objective: Lete, last village
on the trek to Annapurna
Today the day has begun, in
Tiplyang. We have followed the valley of the Miristicola river during an exhausting
day of 10 hours. In the beginning of the day, we went with the connection official Mr. Bed
Bahadur Karki with whom we will continue until we finish the expedition. Our objective
today was Kopchepani. During the route we had the privilege to see Monte Ningiri and the
imposing barrier of South Annapurna of almost 8000 meters. Taking advantage of the good
temperature that the day offered us, while passing by Tatopani, we bathed in the thermal
waters. It allowed time to relax for the members of the expedition, knowing the hardness
of the days that still are to come. From Kopchepani, Nepal, Namaste, Joaquim M.
(Jake) i Gil
- Annapurna Spring 2000: 4/1/2000
Title: The day ended in Lete, at 2400
meters of altitude
Weather:
Sun and Heat (+35 Cs / + 5C)
Expedition Location: Resting in Lete after an pleasant day in
which the group gained 1000 meters of altitude.
Next objective: To rest in Lete to
regroup the team.
We started in Kopchepani and walked in the direction of our objective:
Lete. Although we climbed almost 1000 meters in altitude, it was
quite pleasant. The route that begins to
bring us closer our goal, Annapurna. Today, we saw the path to Thulobugin that we will need to follow in
about two or three days. Tomorrow, (Sunday) we will remain in Lete, so that the porters can rest and to give time for the stragglers to
reunited with the group.
The weather is fantastic; quite fresh at
night and very warm by the day. For that reason, we took advantage of the coolness and walked
in the morning only until 1:00 in the afternoon to stop and eat during the hottest hours. The latest
meteorological situation seemed to get worse, but the night has appeared with a sky full of stars.
The barometer indicates a reduction of pressure which is the reason why we did not wait for great
changes: Sun with temperatures of up to 35 Cs during the day and not less than 5 Cs during
the night. Although, we are still at only 2,400 meters. After the rest day, we will climb to Chhoya (3,600 meters) which is not on the famous
Annapurna circuit.
Namaste
Joaquim " Jake " Molins i Gil
- Annapurna Spring 2000: 4/2/2000
Day of rest Weather: Sun and Heat (35 Cs) (-5 C)
Expedition Location: Lete, enjoying a rest day and recovering.
Next objective: Beginning of the
three last stages towards the Camping Base.
The expeditionary members have dedicated the day to rest and regroup the porters. The rest will serve to save up energy for the last three stages that separate us from Annapurna Base Camp. This
additional energy and the time becoming acclimated at 3000 meters
will help us in the coming weeks. Joaquim "Jake" Molins, spokesman of the
group is happy with the progress.
- Annapurna Spring 2000:
4/3/2000
Title: Civilization
to our Backs
Weather:
Sun, Heat (35 Cs)
Expedition
Location: On the way to Choya
Deurali
Next objective: To
camp at Choya Deurali
Today we will turn our
backs to civilization
and enter into the true kingdom of mountains. With
each step up the valley of the Annapurnas, we are
moving along the historical routes.
There is considerable accumulated snow at 4300
meters. This is the level at which our base camp will be established. Due to
this, we have had many porters leave the expedition. Our Sirdar, Mingma, has had
to hire substitutes. We hope this does not mean delay. After arriving at
our destination, we will take the day to rest and wash ourselves and our clothes
and mainly to contemplate the climb ahead of us. The
French expedition, that had predicted to go to the mountain, postponed
its attempt and now it seems
that they will return to try it in Autumn.
We are going to be the only
representatives of that French expedition that in 1950 conquered the mountain
and in its honor we are going to reach the summit.
Tonight we sleep in our tents, the civilization is
gone and now we live
level with the ground.
If everything goes well,
tonight we will camp in Choya Deurali.
Namaste!
Joaquim " Jake "
Molins i Gil
- Annapurna Spring 2000:
4/4/2000
EverestNews.com will
follow the attempt on Annapurna of the "International Annapurna 2000
Expedition": We think
you will find these daily reports very interesting. Go to their site for the
pictures and dispatches in Spanish. Their
web site: www.interofer.es/annapurna2000
with reports in Spanish, Pictures and more !
Title: The
expedition is paralyzed because of a storm of snow, ice and wind
Weather: Intense
Snow(-15ΊC)
Expedition
Location: Reached 3,300 meters,
inside the tents because of a storm.
Next objective: To
cross the Tolobugin Pass at 4300 meters.
Update:
An unexpected storm of snow, hail and
wind, paralyzed the forward progress of the Expedition. This happened when the
expedition planned to cross the Tolobugin Pass, located at 4300 meters of
altitude. This pass must be crossed to reach Base Camp. These difficulties
at the pass, caused many porters to abandon the expedition and turn around.
Josep Antoni, the leader of the expedition, ordered everyone to put up their
tents and wait for improved weather and more porters to arrive. In the coming hours,
when the snow and the wind (clocked at upwards of 60 km per hour) die
down, the group will start off over the Tolobugin Pass, setting fixed ropes
after the snow has settled.
In
the official notice sent by Joaquim Molins via satellite, "The
thermometers, inside the tents, have descended to 6 degrees below zero, a temperature
that contrasts with more than 30 positives of just a few hours before."
- Annapurna Spring 2000:
4/5/2000
Title: Problems
are Accumulating
for Expedition
Weather: Variable
with abrupt variations of temperature.
Expedition
Location: Camped near the Thulobugin
Pass somewhere around 3,300
meters.
Next objective: To recruit porters
and to go through the Thulobugin
Pass at 4300 meters.
Update:
The
problems continue to harass International
Annapurna 2000 Expedition sponsored
by the Port of Barcelona. The expedition
is paralyzed at 3300
meters on way to the Base
Camp. Due to a lack of
porters that would carry all the materials for the expedition, things are
problematic. Dr Josep Antoni Pujante, leader of the expedition has
received the high sponsorship of king Juan Carlos I of Spain and the King
of Nepal, Birendra Bir, showed his worry
today. Although he
remembered that in Nepal
"The
important thing is to arm oneself with a
good dose of patience and to wait because in the end everything is solved
". " The existence at 3300
meters, the height of the Aneto, on the foot of the Thulobugin Pass is a key
point on the way towards Base Camp. The main reason the porters
abandoned the expedition is due to the dangerous slopes and a 2000 meter
precipice that must be navigated to get through. The expedition's
goods are currently divided into three parts, 18 cans in Lete, (waiting for
porters) 20 camping near the pass, and another 18 near way of the
pass, located to 4300 meters of altitude.
- Annapurna Spring 2000:
Continues
Title: Without
news from the Expedition
Weather: Variable
temperatures.
Expedition
Location: Unknown
Next objective: To
cross the Tolobugin Pass at 4300 meters.
Update:
The lack of news makes us speculate
that the team is crossing the Thulobugin
Pass. The itinerary puts them at Base Camp after crossing this path so it is
assumed the next communication will come from there. In the mean time, we
spoke with Antoni Villena, a Catalan mountaineer who knows the area around
the pass like few others. He has visited there on two occasions. He
was also a member of the second Spanish expedition to Annapurna. He said
"If the porters have left the team because of the adverse weather
conditions near the ascent to the Thulobugin Pass, the complications will worsen
in the climb out of the pass". Villena was in the pass last year, 25 after
his first visit, on his way to Annapurna Base Camp. The team's
situation is not strange to him. "It
is normal that it snows during this time of year considering the altitude.
Additionally, when thinking of the steep entrance to the Pass, it is very
dangerous".
"The snow accumulates in the path which forces the team, in many
cases, to install fixed lines to secure the section ". Antoni Villena, who
will return to the Nepal to hike the Annapurna circuit, assures us that the
complications are far from over. "The path to Base Camp of the north
face of the Annapurna is without a doubt the most complicated of those to any of
the 14 8,000 meter peaks. Thus, it is not a surprise that the porters would fear
this route.".
"Annapurna is a mountain of that is not journeyed to very much because of
these difficulties and the avalanche danger, it is danger. ",
explained prestigious the climber. Source: The Annapurna Web Site Editor.
- Annapurna Spring 2000:
4/8/2000
Weather: Variable
Expedition
Location: Base Camp !
Update:
The Expedition has made Base Camp after crossing the very dangerous pass slowly
and carefully.
Update
4/9/2000: The snow and wind have delayed our arrival to base camp by three days.
We need now to install the necessary equipment for
scaling the mountain. Some equipment we are waiting for hopefully will arrive tomorrow. We will
then need to perform the mandatory religious ceremonies necessary in all base
camps in the Himalayas. The altimeter that indicates that base camp is at 4180 meters
almost 4000 meters below our objective.
Update:
4/10/2000: Calm day today in Base camp. Joaquim Molins begins to write about the
adventure against a scenery we could have only imagined during our four years
that it took for us to get here! Now it is before our eyes. We hope to fulfill a
dream in the days ahead.
The
main goal of the team is to acclimatize to the altitude at the moment. The hours on foot
to get to this point were long and hard. The time is now to write, listen to music,
and contemplate the mountain and imagine the top. Different routes are always
intuited towards the top and each one tries to defend it technically. The truth
will be when one steps on top and then returns safely from its slopes.
Date: 4/14/2000
Title: The snow has stopped
progression to Camp II
Weather: Instable
Location of Expedition: Group
I is at Camp I (Dr. Pujante, Feijoo, Ugur) as is Group 2 ( Tapias, Arias and
Pascual) and Group 3: 2 Sherpas. Base Camp: Molins and the rest of the Nepali
members
Next Objective: If the weather
does not permit moving up to Camp II, the groups will come back to base camp.
Update: "Cold,
very cold" is how Joaquim Molins describes the weather on the mountain. A
cold front has suddenly changed the weather in the Himalayas and has stopped the
teams from progressing to Camp II. They are staying in their tents, taking
advantage of the time to acclimatize. The thermometers have descended to -9 C
inside the tents at Camp 1 and up to -4 C in Base Camp. In addition, there was a
small incident where the garlic sausage or salchichσn disappeared, leaving to
the climbers without an important and flavorful part of its food. Tomorrow, if
the weather improves the team will continues towards camp II. However, if the
adverse conditions do not improve, the team will return to base camp which is
much more comfortable.
Title: The expedition is paralyzed
Weather: Intense Snow (temperature
at C1 is -9 C inside the tents)
Location of Expedition: On the
mountain
Next Objective: Waiting for
improved weather
Update:
The intense snow that has left almost a half meter of snow. This is preventing
to the climbers from leaving their tents. They are hearing considerable amounts
of avalanches although they are happening far away from their tents. An American
expedition is isolated at camp II at 6000 meters. In the next hours the climbers
at Camp I will decide if they stay there hoping improved weather or descend to
base camp.
Title: The expedition is
gathering at base camp
Weather: Snowing (with
improvement expected in the coming hours)
Location of Expedition: Base
Camp
Next Objective: Study the
route to Camp II at 6000 meters
Dispatch: The
adverse weather conditions in which the Annapurna region has sunk into, has
forced the expedition members to return to base camp. This was done by
rappelling on the ropes installed by many teams. At the same time, the Americans
returned to base camp after deciding not to follow the French route that looks
too dangerous. The snow storm, according to the forecasts will stop in the next
hours and lead to three or four days of favorable conditions. However, this may
not lead to good climbing due to the avalanche danger from the recent snows.
Title:
Everyone
in very high spirits
Weather:
Snowy and Clear
Location
of Expedition: At base camp with hopes for favorable conditions to climb
until camp II at 6000 meters.
Next
Objective: Patience, much patience.
Dispatch: "Patience,
much patience is what we must have." Is what Dr Josep Pujante Antoni
explained from base camp at
4180 meters of altitude via sat phone. The intense snow and cold has forced a
gathering of all the expedition members in their tents at base camp. This
includes the last of the Sherpa climbers who finally arrived today. The
third and final expedition attempting Annapurna this spring is supposed to
arrive tomorrow at base camp. It is a French-Nepali military expedition.
The camp will then be abuzz with discussions of the weather and the climb to the
summit. During the day, the expedition member's relaxation
is only broken when it is necessary to remove snow from the tents.
Additionally, the expedition anxiously awaits chairs, which are supposed to
arrive tomorrow. Letters, music, reading, games, and talking to
fellow travelers in the long hours is what is happening to pass the slow
time.
Title: New arrivals at
Base Camp
Weather: Partly
Cloudy
Next Objective: Climb
to Camp 2
Update:
Today
the base camp increased its population. The final expedition will attempt
Annapurna this spring installed its tents today with the help of two helicopters
that transported their materials. This is a French-Nepali joint military
expedition. As the new expedition arrived, the American team
announced that they will leave the French route. According to its leader,
Viesturs " We have decided
to avoid all the dangerous areas of the
mountain, those most exposed to avalanches ". Tonight the sky around
Annapurna was lit by a new moon, a good omen. However, this is not sufficient
because we must only hope that the newly fallen snow compacts quickly.
This will not endanger the climbers along the slopes of this colossal mountain.
The news of the day is that one of the Port of Barcelona's tents was
destroyed by a helicopter blade. 'Jake' Molins said, "I had a small
scare and the tent can be replaced ". In the hours before the supper,
Feijjo, gave an interview to the show "Onda Rambla - Onda Cero. He
displayed from the base camp his poster and confessed that he loves the Atlιtic
of Bilbao soccer team.
Title: The avalanches
restrain the progression.
Expedition
Location: Base Camp at 4180 meters
Next Objective: Climb to Camp
II to study the snow
Update:
The
expedition saw one more day affected by the snow conditions that prevent us from
climbing to Camp I. Today, the climbers planned to climb with the
Americans to Camp I. However, we
observed avalanches occurring 2000 meters directly above the route.
We met and decided to postpone any planned activity planned. The risk
is too high to undertake any climbing. The weather is still adverse. It snows every
day in the afternoon and during the night. The high
temperatures during the day, cause the snow pack to become unstable. "
In spite of our desire to climb, prudence prevails", it explains Joaquνm '
Jakι Molins, via satellite from the base camp.
EverestNews.com will
follow the attempt on Annapurna of the "International Annapurna 2000
Expedition": We think
you will find these daily reports very interesting. Go to their site for the
pictures and dispatches in Spanish. Their
web site: www.interofer.es/annapurna2000
with reports in Spanish, Pictures and more !
Update: 4/20/2000 The
team returns to load-carrying and climbs to Camp II at 6000 meters.
Weather:
Sun during the day and snow at night.
Location
of Expedition: Josep A. Pujante, Jep Tapias, Borja Pascual, Xavier
Arias, Jep Tapias and Yasar Ugur are at Camp I. The rest of the
expedition are at Base Camp being coordinated by Joaquim 'Jake' Molins.
Next
Objective: Decide the climbing route.
Dispatch:
The expedition, in spite of adverse weather conditions, follows the
planned schedule. "Team One" made up of Dr Josep Pujante
Antoni, Paschal de Borja (from Madrid) and the Yasar Ugur (Turkey) reached 6000
meters, where CII is located. The team then returned to the CI.
Tomorrow, they will decide whether to continue on the French route or
follow another less-dangerous route to the summit. This decision was
already made two days ago
Dispatch:
The expedition, in spite of adverse weather conditions, follows the
planned schedule. "Team One" made up of Dr Josep Pujante
Antoni, Paschal de Borja (from Madrid) and the Yasar Ugur (Turkey) reached 6000
meters, where CII is located. The team then returned to the CI.
Tomorrow, they will decide whether to continue on the French route or
follow another less-dangerous route to the summit. This decision was
already made two days ago by the American expedition. The high temperatures during
the day and the cold and snow during the night has caused the route to become
very instable and prone to avalanches. This is especially the case near
CII. While "Team One" ascended to the CII, "Team
Two" formed by Basque Iosu, Feijoo and Xavier Arias and Jep Tapias
fixed ropes in sections between the base camp and CI. Both teams met
in CI in the afternoon. According to Dr Pujante "We had a very hard
day. We climbed for 13 hours to CII and then descended to CI in bad
weather." The American and Military expeditions are looking to team-up and
combine efforts to complete the ascent of the mountain.
NEWSFLASH 4/21/2000 7:47 pm EST
ANNAPURNA:
Communication from the
International Expedition to Annapurna 2000 via Airtel from Camp I at 5000
meters.
"Team One"
formed by Ugur Uluoak, Paschal Borja and myself, yesterday reopened the route
between Camp 1 to Camp 2. The route had become impassable after several
continuous days of falling snow and subsequent avalanches. Returning to Camp 1
to spend the night with to the "Team Two" formed by Jep, Iosu Aryan
Feijoo and Xavier. They had installed prudent fixed ropes between Camp 1
and BC. Today, they were to have installed fixed ropes between Camp 1 and
Camp 2. However, at
midnight, an immense avalanche, coming from the level 7500 meters, caused an
enormous roar and later a powerful expansive wave. The
avalanche strongly shook the tents at Camp 1 and awoke everyone. Everyone
then scrambled to refuges before the imminent arrival of the snow. This
sprinkled the level platform of Camp 1 following the explosion that has lasted
almost a minute. This morning, we prepared the loads that Sherpas should have
transport to Camp 2. This included ropes, stoves and food that they were
to put in the tents. Minutes afterwards, when studying the route, we saw that
the avalanche of the previous night literally swept all but 400 meters of the
route to Camp 2. This is the exact route that we followed yesterday.
The avalanche wiped out the route towards Camp 2. Immediately afterwards, as the
expedition head, I had to
order that neither Sherpas nor the climbers accept the to risk and cancelled the
plans for the day. I have ordered the Sherpas to descend to the BC.
The climbers, at the moment, are here at Camp 1. The
American expedition, led by Ed Viesturs,
who also was in the Camp 1 and has immense
experience in the Himalayas,
at sight of the
circumstances, decided to definitively abandon their ascent of Annapurna. The
French military expedition, did not climb to Camp 1 as was planned. We are
therefore alone at Camp 1 and in good conditions. As
the route to Camp 2 has been destroyed and the atmospheric conditions are not
good, we will stay here a few days awaiting better conditions. The
patience, the prudence and the tenacity, must be united to attempt to ascend
Annapurna.
Jose Pujante, leader
of the Expedition the International 2,000 Annapurna / Port of Barcelona
4/21/2000 A
huge avalanche has devastated part of the route to camps I & II.
Weather:
Sunny
during the day, snowing at night.
Expedition
Location: At Camp 1: Pujante, Ugur, Tapias, Paschal, Feijoo and
Arias. In Base Camp: Molins, Dawa and Phurba Chuldim.
Next
Objective: Climb to Camp 2 with Supplies
Dispatch:
Dr. Josep Antoni Pujante called via satellite from Camp 1 at 5000 meters. The
team made up of Ugur Uluocak, Borja Pascual and myself re-opened the route
between Camp 1 and Camp 2. The route had been blocked by continuing snow and
avalanches. Descending
to Camp 1 to sleep with "Team Two" composed of Jep Tapias, Feijoo
& Arias. They had spent the day reinforcing the fixed ropes between Base
Camp and Camp 1. Today, we were to have installed Camp 2 to sleep there.
However, during the middle of the night, an intense avalanche starting at 7500
meters blew through and dusted the platform where Camp 1 is located. It lasted a
few minutes. This morning, we prepared our loads for the Sherpas to
transport to Camp 2 made up of ropes, tents and food. Minutes
afterwards, when studying the route, we saw that the avalanche of the previous
night literally swept all but 400 meters of the route to Camp 2. This is the exact
route that we followed yesterday. The avalanche wiped out the route towards Camp
2. Immediately afterwards, as the expedition head, I had to order that neither Sherpas
nor the climbers accept the to risk and cancelled the plans for the day. I have
ordered the Sherpas to descend to the BC. The climbers, at the moment, are here
at Camp 1. The American expedition, led by Ed Viesturs, who also was in the Camp
1 and have
immense experience in the Himalayas, at sight of the circumstances, decided to
definitively abandon their ascent of Annapurna. The French military expedition,
did not climb to Camp 1 as was planned. We are therefore alone at Camp 1 and in good
conditions. As the route to Camp 2 has been destroyed and the atmospheric
conditions are not good, we will stay here a few days awaiting better
conditions. PATIENCE,
PRUDENCE AND TENACITY MUST BE UNITED IN ORDER TO ASCEND ANNAPURNA!!!
4/22/2000 "Team Two" Sleeps at
C amp 2."Team Two" Sleeps at
Camp 2.
Weather:
Sun in the day and snow at night
Location
of Expedition: Camp 2: Xavier Arias, Borja Pascual and Ugur Uluocak.
Camp
I: Josep A. Pujante, Jep Tapias, Dawa and Phurba. Base
Camp: Joaquim Molins and Feijoo.
Next
Objective: Supply Camp 2 and study the route to Camp 3
Dispatch:
This
morning at 9:30AM Nepal time, five members of "Team Two" took
advantage of a slight improvement the weather. They ascended to Camp
2,
carrying tents, climbing equipment and food, without the support of Sherpas. The
intention was for three team members (Xavier Aryan, Paschal Borja and Ugur Uluocak) to spend the night at
Camp 2. They are acclimatizing and will study
the route to Camp 3
in the morning. "Team One" made up of Dr. Jose A. Pujante and Jep
Tapias are to head to BC to re-energize. If
this is not possible due to bad weather, they will stay at
Camp 1. Our
formidable team of Sherpas climbed today to Camp
1 with the intention to
climb to Camp 2 tomorrow to collaborate with the members of the expedition in
the establishment of this camp. At 14:15 (Nepal time), the weather at BC is not
very encouraging. A cloudy front coming from the west, originating in
the Valley of Lete, has blown into the base camp area of Annapurna. This
phenomenon has become habitual since our arrival to the Himalayas. The
storms unloading snow and the temperature descends. The combination of afternoon
snows and lower temperatures at night makes it enormously difficult for our
teams to make progress. This is due to the avalanches of accumulated snow
on our routes.
Joaquim
M. "Jake" Molins, from Annapurna BC
4/23/2000 Team member leaving
Dispatch: Feijoo will leave Annapurna base camp tomorrow to go to
Everest to fulfill his commitments as the head of the Basque expedition.
The expedition is looking to ascend to the ceiling of the world! He will take
advantage of the American expedition's trek led by Ed Viesturs to descend with
them until Kathmandu.
Today, the expedition sponsored by the Port of Barcelona has not emitted any
official notice from the base camp. This could be caused by a technical
problems in the mail server that we hope will be solved in the next hours.
4/24/2000 A storm whips the mountain.
Location
of Expedition: Seeking Refuge at Base Camp
Next
objective: Wait, wait, wait
Dispatch:
Annapurna
is being whipped by inclement weather since yesterday afternoon. After 14 hours
of uninterrupted snow, BC has been swallowed with almost half meter of snow.
The slopes of Annapurna, especially the North face's glacier (where the climbing
route is located) have been dangerously loaded with snow. With complete
certainty, the route could not be climbed for another three or four days
because of the avalanche danger. The mountain has disappeared before out eyes.
The visibility is little and the landscape presents/displays a monotony of the
thick whiteness that surrounds us. We see only snow and fog. The good news is
that the teams returned from Camp 1 and Camp 2 yesterday to BC. The team
climbing down from Camp 2 was surprised by the storm. If the two teams had not
descended yesterday, the climbers would have been in jeopardy because both of
the camps are now isolated. All the expeditionary members are, then, in the BC
and in perfect state. The North American expedition that already decided to
leave must now wait at the BC for the weather to improve. The French
military expedition decided today to not climb Annapurna. This was
communicated by their leader, Captain Thierry Bolo. The causes are
identical to those which motivated the American equipment led by Ed Viesturs. The
Expedition of the 50th anniversary will hope to resume the climbing activity
when time and prudence advise it. Both high camps are perfectly installed and
equipped. Meanwhile, it continues to snow. The snow is white, but the panorama
is black.
J. Pujante, Head
of the Port of Barcelona
Expedition.
Update 4/25/2000
Snow
covers the entire mountain with white.
Weather:
Snow, with improvement expected in the next hours.
Location
of Expedition: Base Camp
Next
Objective: Climb to CI and CII
Dispatch: A
front of clouds the covers the bulk of Annapurna. Since we
arrived, it has snowed every afternoon. Although
there is a risk of avalanche, tomorrow all climbers will go to CI with the
intention to climb to CII the next day. The
members of the French
military expedition will try to climb Tilicho Peak (7,140 meters) and then to
CI. We know
that our CI has been affected by the snow, making the tents into snow-white
forts. We are concerned with the loss of important climbing materials. Of
course, the same can be said of CII. We will not know anything about the
status of our materials there until we climb there. We
are prepared for the worst.
Cordially
from all team members,
Joaquim
'Jake' Molins
NEWSFLASH 4/26/2000
8:48AM EST
Alberto and Felix Inurrategi
with Pepe Garces reached the Summit of Manaslu on
4/25/2000 which is believed to
be the first Summit of the Year 2000 for a 8000 meter peak.
Alberto and Felix
Inurrategi are attempting to finish the 14 8000 meters peaks this year. They
now will be off to Annapurna !!! These guys are
special.
You will recall Pepe
from EverestNews.com coverage of K2 the last two
years where Pepe has been an Expedition member. Pepe has also joined the Quest
for 8000.
Update: 4/26/2000
Alone. Americans and French say "Adios"
Weather:
Small Improvements Predicted
Location
of Expedition: Distributed between Base Camp (4180m) and CI (5000m)
Next
Objective: Climb to CII at 6000m.
Dispatch: Today, the members of the Expedition took advantage of a window of
good weather. Although there is no way to guarantee that the weather will stay this
way. Today, in preparation for a supposed slight improvement
of the weather, some of the team ascended to CI (5000 m). When they reached CI, they verified the damages from the intense snow and avalanches
of the last days. Luckily, although some of the equipment was damaged and lost, we reestablished CI. With the hope of
a stable morning we will initiate
the ascent to C II. We hope to evaluate the damages and reestablish that camp. Once we have reconstructed the camp, we will check on the conditions
to CIII. The American Expedition, led by Ed Viesturs, left the BC yesterday in the direction of Katmandu. The same for the members of the French
Military Expedition. They disassembled their Camp I on Annapurna. We are alone.
Namaste,
Joaquim M. "Jake" Molins Gil from BC at 4180m, Nepal
Update 4/28/2000
Title :
Climbers in Camp II, 2000 meters from the summit.
Dispatch:
Today,
the members of the Expedition took advantage of a slight improvement the
weather. Still far from the most desirable weather, they climbed to CII,
accompanied by Sherpas. "Team Two" formed by Xavier and Ugur Uluocak
and "Team One" with Dr Pujante and Jep Tapias, are both
rebuilding CII at the moment. CII was damaged by the snow and
avalanches previous days. They have also been able to locate an important
cache of climbing materiel that was presumed lost. Without these materials,
it would have been more difficult to make progress up to CIII. Tomorrow
(29th), the teams will wait for the weather to calm and then climb up the German
route to CIII. After multiple observations, this route appears to be safe.
The technical difficulty of Annapurna, the severe and inhospitable climatic
conditions and the losing materials due to avalanches are all part of climbing
this mountain of 8091 meters. The messages of luck from relatives, friends
and mountaineering fans received here at this base camp, thanks to Airtel, are
at the moment the main motivation of us.
Joaquim M. "Jake" Molins Gil from BC at 4180m, Nepal
Their
web site: www.interofer.es/annapurna2000
with reports in Spanish, Pictures and more !
Update 5/1/2000
Title : The
German Route: Impossible
Location of Expedition: CI and
BC
Next Objective: Study a
new route.
Dispatch:
After
the attempt to open the German route on the 29th, the climbers decided
abandon the route due to poor conditions. It was impossible to climb
this route with guarantees of safety. The weather is also very
unstable. We still have not yet seen one full day of good weather. The
fronts of low pressure settle in every noon on North face and unload
snow. Additionally, in the last days with electrical activity.
This, together with loss of material, makes difficult the progress. After
yesterday's attempt, the climbers descended to C I, to spend the night and to
rest. Today, April 30th, with the aid of Sherpas who are climbing to CI,
the team will try to study the possible alternatives for the ascent and
installation of C III.
Joaquim
M. "Jake" Molins Gil
Dispatch:
5/2/2000
Title:
Technical difficulties in communication
Location
of Expedition: Unknown at this point
Next
Objective: Study possibilities for a solution to the technical problems
Dispatch:
The BC communicated that they are having technical problems with the
communications equipment. As was discussed in the last dispatch, the
expedition abandoned the German route, as the Americans and French did.
The accumulation of snow makes the route too risky. Next Thursday (4 May)
the technical problems will have been fixed and we await communications from the
team, then.
Update:
The
Expedition is Over !!!
Their web site: www.interofer.es/annapurna2000 with
reports in Spanish, Pictures and more ! A very nice site.
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