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 Daily News: 4/10/2000 Report

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories.  Receiving Reports from over 25 Teams on Everest this Spring 2000.

  • Guest Column: 
Graham Ratcliffe, the first climber from the UK who has reached the Summit of Everest from both the North and South Sides.
I'll start by saying who I am and with what knowledge I discuss events on Everest this spring. I've reached the summit of Everest via the north-ridge in Tibet in 95 and via the south-east ridge in Nepal in 99.  I've been on a total of 5 Everest Expeditions so I have a pretty good understanding of the way things work and a behind the scenes insight.
Reading through EverestNews.com I see there are an estimated record 46 expeditions heading to Everest this Spring compared to last year's record of 37.  Although this should present no real problems on either the north or south sides at Base Camp or Advanced Base Camp it could lead to an unspoken competition to get to the better tent spots at higher camps.  This always happens to a certain extent but as numbers increase so will the competition.  It could well lead to expeditions keeping their agendas close to their chest early on, something which normally happens when summit attempts get near.
Another factor this year, especially for those searching for evidence from the 1924 expedition, is the snow.  There were some heavy dumps of snow at the end of last season and some teams (including ours) were predicting some quite deep snow and as ours was a expedition to clear up rubbish from the south side we decided to wait until 2001. 


Bob Hoffman and his team who were on a similar agenda have decided to go this spring and we wish them luck and will be following their progress with interest.  Early reports from the North side have indicated some quite heavy snow but I have heard no reports from higher on the South side yet.
The effect of the snow on the climbing, if there is a reasonable amount, apart from the possible avalanche risk depending on conditions, is that climbing lower down will be slightly more strenuous but better higher up.  It helps the climbing higher up, provided it is consolidated, as it covers much of the rocky and slabby areas which are otherwise more difficult to traverse and can lead to faster ascents.
I smiled as I read about the concern of the Andalucians over their oxygen cylinders that haven't arrived yet.  This is something that happens every year.  Teams find a focal point to worry about and quite often this ends up being the oxygen. This is because they convince themselves they have everything they need to climb the mountain except the oxygen that hasn't arrived yet.  The fact that they have not acclimatized yet and that camp 2, camp 3 and camp 4 have not been fixed yet seems low priority. Henry Todd who runs the company Himalayan Guides also supplies nearly all the oxygen and does it very efficiently.


Every year Henry is pressured by people who want the oxygen well before it is needed and every year he gets it to them in plenty of time.  Henry takes supplying the oxygen very seriously and it's safe delivery will be high priority !!
All things considered the situation seems normal for an Everest season.

Graham Ratcliffe    www.highambitions.com

A team of eight climbers and over 20 sherpas will climb to Camp 4 on Everest this spring to attempt to bring down hundreds of discarded oxygen bottles and tons of trash left by other climbers in the past. The climbers will also attempt to summit Everest.

Members include Robert Chang, Expedition leader Robert Hoffman of Belmont, CA, (his fourth expedition to Everest), Deputy Expedition leader is Robert Boice of San Francisco. The expedition trek leader is Jamling Tenzing Norgay, the son of one of the first Everest summiteers, Tenzing Norgay. In addition, Sherman Bull, 62, of Stamford, CT, is a physician member.

Current Status: On the trail through the Khumbu.

A 45-minute flight Wednesday aboard 19-seat Twin Otter airplanes took the team to the village of Lukla, at 9,000 feet. The planes touched down on an airstrip that clings to the side of a mountain, providing a spectacular landing.

Smiling Sherpas greeted us and served us hot, sweet tea before we set off on the 30-mile trip to base camp.

Today, after two days of hiking, we are acclimatizing at Namche Bazaar, a village at 11,200 feet.

Namche is the center for the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee. Expedition leaders and Jamie Ross, the expedition's environmental director, are meeting with officials here. Among other things, they will go over all sorts of gear and supplies - fuel canisters, batteries, food and the like -- that are being taken up to base camp. On the way back, the expedition will check in again with the officials to make sure that nothing was left on the mountain.

Namche Bazaar also is a center for disposing of trash. It has a trash compacter and an incinerator. Ross reports it also has a wonderful shower! The climbers are all acclimatizing well and are in good spirits. Tomorrow, we leave Namche for Tengboche, a Buddhist monastery, where the lama will conduct a puja ceremony, asking the spirits for safety on Mount Everest.

EverestNews.com will feature dispatches from this American Expedition.

  • Everest Spring 2000: Everest Dream

Sagarmatha Base Camp: Hi everyone, I arrived at Base Camp of Sagarmatha on April 5th at about 2:30 PM from Lobuche. The altitude gain was only 1100 feet but the distance was long. I am enjoying excellent health at 17,650' and trying to maintain it. There are a few climbers who are sick and trying to recover. BC is clean and not too crowded as I had thought. I have established my tent which is going to be my base for the next 50 days. I will be resting 2-3 days and after the BC ceremony with Sherpas I will head for camp 1 at 19,200'. Everything is moving forward perfectly and I will be sending updates every few days. I hope everything is well with all of you. I miss you all... Saeed 

Saeed's dispatches/pictures and more from Nepal can be found at www.everestdream.com

  • Everest Spring 2000: Byron Smith at C1 !

Current Status: A lama visited Base camp and performed a special ceremony called a puja for Byron and the Everest 2000 team. While chanting in a native Tibetan tongue, a puja altar was built and artifacts and pictures were placed on the altar. The lama blessed the artifacts and some of the climbing equipment and burned juniper. The lama then asked the mountain gods to bless the Sherpas and the climbers. 

For video updates (which are very good), and daily dispatches check Byron's Expedition out today: http://cbc.ca/everest2000/

  • Annapurna Spring 2000: 

EverestNews.com will follow the attempt on Annapurna of the "International Annapurna 2000 Expedition": We think you will find these daily reports very interesting. Go to their site for the pictures and dispatches in Spanish. Their web site:  www.interofer.es/annapurna2000 with reports in Spanish, Pictures and more !

Weather: Variable

Expedition Location: Base Camp !

Update: The Expedition has made Base Camp after crossing the very dangerous pass slowly and carefully. 

EverestNews.com has added a Spring 2000 Annapurna Page where EverestNews.com will report News on this expedition and other Annapurna News. 

  • Other News

Gavin Bate Expedition has reached Base Camp.

The Nepali Women Expedition has left for Everest.

The 14 year old boy who is attempting Everest appears to be moving his time table back.

Graham Hoyland & the BBC will be in the News on Tuesday !

The Jagged Globe Expedition has reached Base Camp

Some expeditions are starting to set us Camp 2, including Babu

The Koreans also has an expedition on the South Side in Spring 2000

  • Recent News

List of Expeditions who have paid for their permits in Nepal

In search of Mike Matthews' Body

Reinhold Messner latest adventure

The Quest for 14

Death on the way to Everest continued

Death on the way to Everest

EverestNews.com has learned a 14 year boy plans to attempt the Summit of Everest in Spring 2000

Juan Oiarzabal, "To the Edge of The Impossible" or AL FILO DE LO IMPOSIBLE in Spanish: Expedition to recreate the ascent of 1924 of Mallory and Irvine of Everest. This expedition is already underway.

Summary of Canadian Expeditions on Everest in Spring 2000

Graham Hoyland's Lecture "Unraveling the Mystery of George Mallory" in the Baird Auditorium at the National Museum of Natural History.

Alan Hinkes Q&A

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Adventure Consultants for Everest Spring 2000

Close Does Not Count for Records


EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe for Everest Spring 2000

Spanish Climber to attempt the Messner route on Everest

Change of Guard at the Khumbu Ice Fall

Graham Hoyland and the BBC returns to Everest in Spring 2000 in search of the camera and Irvine.

Jochen Hemmleb Q&A Part 7

India climber plans to spend the night on the Summit

For all the April 2000 News

For all the March 2000 News

For earlier reports: see the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories.  If you are New to EverestNews.com, treat us like a book, you have much to read. We suggest you start with April 99 and read April and May 1999 to get an idea what EverestNews.com is all about. EverestNews.com is designed to be read daily. Our goal is to report on all climbers. A hint, if you are reading old pages you need to read from the bottom of the page up, as the latest report is at the top of the page.

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