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Daily News: 4/14/2000 Report
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For Latest
News. For earlier reports:
See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories. Receiving Reports from over 25 Teams on Everest this Spring 2000.
- Everest Spring 2000:
Adventure Consultants Featured Expedition on EverestNews.com
EverestNews.com will
feature full dispatches from Adventure
Consultants in Spring 2000.
Adventure Consultants
is a world renowned expedition climbing company with a legacy of ascents to the
more remote and wild peaks on our planet. Quality service, complete commitment
and success are the hallmarks of Adventure Consultants, as are Guy
Cotter and the qualified
guides and staff who are the driving force behind Adventure Consultants
expeditions. http://www.adventure.co.nz
Dispatch April 13th from
Everest Base Camp:
Guy Cotter reports in from the
Adventure Consultants Everest Base Camp:
"After a brief snow shower
last night a clear dawn saw David, Andy and Yuki depart for the notorious Khumbu
icefall for the first time, heralding the beginning of their Mt Everest ascent.
After almost one month in the country acclimatizing and setting up the base camp
the team is now coming to terms with the actual ascent which is the culmination
of over a year of planning and preparation. Yukimitsu has been climbing Mt Fuji
in Japan once a week in difficult winter conditions and Andy has been running
and weight training regularly. For both this has been a concerted effort to keep
in condition after having been on Cho Oyu (8201m) last October/November.
Adventure Consultants were the only successful guiding operation on Cho Oyu in
the Post Monsoon as all the other commercial teams had insufficient confidence
to deal with the difficult snow conditions. AC guides Jim Litch and Dean Staples
being snow safety experts assessed the conditions well and summited with the
group whilst all the other teams arrived back into Kathmandu!
10:45am.... David Hiddleston
has just radioed in from the top of the icefall 5 hours after leaving BC.
"We are the top of the icefall, the weather is good and we are going to
head back down to base camp now" When asked about the condition of the
climbing group he said 'Yuki is going very strong and racing across the ladders.
Andy is doing well also but may have a bit of a cold, so not feeling
100%"
My response from the warmth of
the BC communication tent! (with a strong cup of Venus coffee in hand)
"Very good Dave, it sounds like you are all doing well. 5 hours to the top
of the icefall on the first journey up is quite a good time so well done all of
you, I'll have a brew on for you when you get down so give us a call when you
get close to the bottom" "Good one Guy (Dave responds) talk to you
soon, out"
Other news, the trekking group
of Jessica, Peter, Cameron & Charlie (Dan & Cherry departed from
Khumjung earlier) left today for Pheriche having had three nights as guests of
the expedition team. In the words of Peter Hay, "This has been a real eye
opener for me seeing how it all operates and how much work goes into an Everest
ascent. The staff here have been great and I'd certainly recommend that other
people join your team for treks or climbs, the attention to quality is
impressive!"
So
there we have it, the climb has begun, more updates coming..."
EverestNews.com will
feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe in Spring 2000. Jagged Globe was
founded by Steve Bell. Steve has more than 20 years of mountaineering
experience including winter ascents of the north faces of the Eiger and
Matterhorn. He claims "Britain's first guided expedition to an 8,000m peak
and was the first Briton to lead clients to the summit of Everest." He has
climbed all of the continental summits and is a fully qualified UIAGM mountain
guide. Steve and Jagged Globe
are known as one of the best guiding companies in the world.
This year's expedition
will be lead by Australian guide, Andrew Lock (having been on two previous
Everest expeditions and reached the Summit
of K2), supported by Tim Bird. Tim has led expeditions for Jagged
Globe for many years including successful trips to Elbrus, Stok Kangri, Mera and
Island Peak, Aconcagua and Gasherbrum II. A highly regarded professional
instructor (MIC), Tim directs their Scottish Winter Courses, and provides their
UK technical support for training and advice to all their group expeditions
licensed through the Adventure Activities Licensing Authority. They are using
the same Sherpa team as last year. This is another
international team, comprising: Jack Culley (UK), Joe Wolf (USA), Jeff
Magee (UK), David Spencer (UK), Curt Peterson (USA), Timothy Gregg (USA) , Paul
Giorgio (USA).
Dispatch Four: The
seventh of April saw the arrival of the whole team at base camp (BC 5350m)
This included the arrival of Andrew Lock, the Team Leader. Andrew had been
delayed due to unavoidable hold ups in Antarctica, something familiar to several
of the other team members! Andrew has been with us for one week now, and brings
with him a great breath and depth of experience including; two previous Everest
attempts and six other 8000m summits. Under Andrew's competent leadership the
team has prepared for and completed phase one of our acclimatization plan. Phase
one included:
1. Equipment checks and fix
rope practice
2. A short excursion into the
ice fall to practice crossing the infamous ladders that span the crevasses
3. An acclimatization load
carry to Camp 1 and return to BC (climb high and sleep low!) The team is now on
its second rest day after completing this first phase, and is preparing for
phase two. Tomorrow morning the 13 April we plan to leave BC at am to spend two
nights at camp 1 with an acclimatization trip to camp 2 between the nights. The
BC communications systems are just coming through the normal teething problems
associated with high tech equipment in adverse conditions, so we hope to keep
family and friends updated on our return from phase two. The team are all safe
and well and apart from small discomforts that life above 5000m brings are all
focused on the stepping stones to climb the Mountain.
Tim Bird Deputy Team
Leader
- Canadian Everest Expedition 2000:
Current Status: Ben
Webster's team has been at base camp for the last week or so and they're making
ascents to Camp 1 to get acclimatized. They've found the icefall crowded, with
long waits at some ladders. Their reporter also found Canadian Gabriel Filippi.
Khumbu Ice
Fall: Exhausted and leaning heavily on walking sticks, the CEE 2000 team made it
back down from Camp 1 yesterday.
You can get full details on the
Canadians at the Canadian Everest Expedition 2000's official website -- http://www.canoe.ca/Everest/home.html
- Everest Spring
2000: Byron
Smith
Current Status: Even
at Basecamp the Everest 2000 team is witnessing some of the challenges of Everest. Thursday morning
an avalanche rumbled nearby sending a snow plume about
750 meters wide down the side of the mountain. Although it was on the outskirts
of Basecamp, some snow residue will blow in to camp.
Check his diary entry for more http://cbc.ca/everest2000/
- Everest North Side:
Rough Translation
Dispatch: [Bernard]
We arrived at Lhasa on the road reserved at the trucks. And the sight of Potala,
the view was really sad, one day dull, with ugly buildings and a dirty and polluted river. We know well that
Potala is splendid up close, but our first sight from afar was far from the romantic image
which I had in my sensory banks of reference.
The
gang of Jipi (group of trek of Jean-Pierre Danvoye) arrived before yesterday and
they visited the monasteries of Drepung, Ganden, Jokang and the palate of
Potala.
Check them out for some nice
pictures and video: http://www.everestmillenium.qc.ca/jdb.asp
for reports in French, video and more.
- Andalucia Everest
Expedition leader: MANUEL GONZALEZ DIAZ
Dispatch: Tomorrow
we will install CII, located in a well-known zone as " the valley of
silence ", at a height of 6400 meters, the foot of the great wall of the
flank of the Lhotse. This camp II, will make the functions of field bases
(camps) advanced, with the purpose of obtaining to better acclimatization and to
position for the attack at the summit. The equipment has been
divided into groups. In next the three days, all climbers will arrive to
this point. At least one week will be required o complete the second cycle of
acclimatization anticipated in the logistic general of the scaling (climbing)...
EverestNews.com will
publish the Andalucia reports in English. Their reports in Spanish, pictures,
and more will be on the http://www.deporteandaluz.com/everest.htm
site.
- Alan Hinkes leaves
for Kangchenjunga
Kathmandu
4/12/2000: Alan Hinkes left
Kathmandu this morning by Nepal Airlines to Biratnagar, a lowland terai town of
Nepal, to start his walk-in to Kangchenjunga Base Camp. Alan will fly tomorrow morning to Taplejung, where he will be
received by his waiting crew led by his Sherpa Ang Pasang. Alan will spend the
night today at Biratnagar, to catch early morning flight to Taplejung tomorrow.
Alan hopes to reach Base Camp in 10 days time.
Earlier Alan drove to
the end of Kathmandu City at a place called Chovar to do a Tree Plantation, a
sapling of plum, one of Alan's favorite fruit. The plantation is hoped to bring
some awareness among the villagers about environment and the benefit of greening
their surroundings.
Pictures
Reported by Himalaya
Center Kathmandu
EverestNews.com will
follow the attempt on Annapurna of the "International Annapurna 2000
Expedition": We think
you will find these daily reports very interesting. Go to their site for the
pictures and dispatches in Spanish. Their
web site: www.interofer.es/annapurna2000
with reports in Spanish, Pictures and more !
Update
4/11/2000: The
expedition reached 5100 meters, point of installation of Camp 1. Cold and
windy (the temperature oscillates between the 10 and -4 Cs).
Dr Josep Antoni,
Paschal, the Catalan Jep Mud Walls and the Turk Ugar,
arrived today at 5100 meters. They returned later to the base camp to rest. Xavi Aryan has not been able to accompany to the
group. The group will rest in the morning. Sherpas will celebrate, in the camps,
the religious ceremonies in which "the aid to the Gods will
be requested".
Update 4/12/2000:
The expedition
has finally been able today to reunite in the camping bases with all the material of
the expedition and to dedicate the day to the religious ceremony celebrated by
the Sherpas. On Tuesday the acclimatization process was started, a
necessary step before confronting the highest part of the mountain. Now the expedition has
all its climbers and equipment at base camp.
Update
4/13/2000: Dr Josep Mighty Antoni,
leader of the expedition, and his companions:
Xavier Aryan, Paschal Borja, Iosu Feijjo, Jep Tapias and Ugur spent the night at
5000 meters of altitude, with the objective tomorrow to reach the place of installation
of Camp II at about 6000 meters of altitude. Like in previous days the day cleared.
Then it snowed ! The storm did not affect the ascent.
EverestNews.com has added
a Spring 2000 Annapurna Page where EverestNews.com
will report News on this
expedition and other
Annapurna News.
Our friends at Risk
have some Cho Oyu News. Check them out !
Graham Hoyland and the BBC returns
to Everest in Spring 2000 in
search of
the camera and Irvine. EverestNews.com
EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Mountain
Madness for
Everest Spring 2000
List of Expeditions
who
have paid for their permits
in Nepal
In search
of Mike Matthews' Body
Reinhold
Messner latest adventure
The
Quest for 14
Death
on the way to Everest continued
Death
on the way to Everest
EverestNews.com
has learned a 14 year boy
plans to attempt the Summit of Everest in Spring 2000
Juan
Oiarzabal, "To
the Edge of The Impossible"
or AL FILO DE LO IMPOSIBLE in Spanish: Expedition
to recreate the ascent of 1924 of Mallory and Irvine of
Everest. This
expedition is already
underway.
Summary
of Canadian Expeditions on Everest in Spring 2000
Graham
Hoyland's Lecture "Unraveling the Mystery of George Mallory" in the
Baird Auditorium at the National Museum of Natural History.
Alan
Hinkes Q&A
EverestNews.com
will feature full dispatches from Adventure Consultants for Everest Spring 2000
Close
Does Not Count for Records
ALAN
HINKES TARGETS THIRD HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN THE WORLD, KANGCHENJUNGA AS TWELFTH
MOUNTAIN ON HIS CHALLENGE TO ACHIEVE BRITISH RECORD
EverestNews.com
will feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe for Everest Spring 2000
Spanish
Climber to attempt the Messner route on Everest
Change
of Guard at the Khumbu Ice Fall
Graham
Hoyland and the BBC returns to Everest in Spring 2000 in search of the camera and
Irvine.
Jochen
Hemmleb Q&A Part 7
India
climber plans to spend the night on the Summit
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