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For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories.  Receiving Reports from over 25 Teams on Everest this Spring 2000.

NEWSFLASH 4/16/2000 12:05PM EST US

  • News from the French Canadians on the North Side (Tibet) of Everest

This is to inform you that an accident happened a few hour ago on the China side of Everest. 

The accident involved a Nepali member of the Everest Millenium team www.everestmillenium.qc.ca (French Canadian / Quebec team ). 

I receive a satellite call at 9h00AM today from Francois Loubert, member of the team and doctor. I got only partial information at this time, because the poor satellite phone communications I had with Francois were really short. The calls were cut because of the poor telecom. signal. 

The team was split in 2 group : 2 members Claude-Andre and Bernard were at the Advanced Base Camp waiting for the equipment that were coming up, while the 2 others were going down to the Base Camp at 5700m with the Jean-Pierre Danvoye / L'Echappee belle trekking's group. 

While going down, the 2 members and trekkers came across Bam Badour, the Nepali team's cook . Bam Badour was climbing to the Advanced Base Camp (ABC).  When the group came across Bam Badour, they talked with Bam who said he was feeling tired but Ok and wanted to climb to ABC. A little bit after, Claude-Andre when down (for a reason I ignore at this time) and found Bam Badour unconscious. Francois and Claude-Andre took 2 Yaks and started the rescue. On the last call I had with Francois, he was with Claude-Andre and Bam Badour. Francois who is a doctor (medical) said Bam Badour had a cerebral and pulmonary edema. They were going down to the Base Camp. I cannot confirm the gravity of the edema for now. I think Bam is still alive but not sure. 

It is the only information I got for now. 

P.S. sorry for my english writing... 

Dominic Danvoye

Everest Millenium's Montreal based contact and web site responsible. President AZUR Informatique Inc. 

  • There are at least 8 expeditions at Everest Base camp on the North.
  • Bam Badour works for Asian Trekking, which supports most expeditions on the North Side of Everest. EverestNews.com has informed Asian Trekking of the situation. They should have many other Sherpa climbers in the area to assist if necessary.
  • EverestNews.com will let You know more when we do... 
  • Our prayers go out to Bam Badour and his family on this Sunday before Easter.

NEWSFLASH 4/16/2000 9:05PM EST US

  • News from the French Canadians on the North Side (Tibet) of Everest

Latest news from Everest Millenium: I talked with Francois I just talked to Francois a few minutes ago, he explain me in detail how the incident happened.

On April 13 the Everest Millenium team members and Jean-Pierre Danvoye / L'Echappee belle trekker's spend the night at 5400m. Then next day April 14 climbed and stay for the night at 5900m. Then on the April 15 eleven trekkers, Jean-Pierre Danvoye and  team members Francois Loubert, Andre Laperiere, Bernard Mailhot and Claude-Andre Nadon reach the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) with their 16 yaks carrying food and gears. All the high altitude gear, tents, clothing and all other material needed for the climbing left from the Base Camp (2 days delayed) on April 15. The cook Bam Badour and his helpers were following the yaks heading to the ABC. 

On April 16 Jean-Pierre Danvoye and his trekking team, along with Francois Loubert and Andre Laperiere were going back to the Base Camp because the trek was at it's end. While going down at 2h00 PM the group cross the yaks, yaks man's and the cooks. One cook Bam Badour was the last member of the caravan. Francois Loubert reported that Bam Badour looks tired but said he was ok and wanted to head up to ABC. Even if Jean-Pierre Danvoye offer Bam to follow his group to his camp a few hundred meters down and spend the night and take a little time off Bam Badour said he was felling ok and really wanted to go up. So Trekkers let him go up and follow their plan and went down to their camp at 5700m. 

During that moment Everest Millenium team member Bernard Mailhot and Claude-Andre Nadon were waiting for the yaks caravan at ABC. When the yaks caravan arrived at ABC Bam Badour wasn't with the caravan's group. At 5h00 PM the cook Bam Badour still wasn't arrived at ABC. Claude-Andre decided to go down to check if he could find him. He walk down for 1 hour to find Bam Badour lying on the ground unconscious near 5950m. He was able to wake up Bam Badour. Bam wasn't able to stand up.

Claude-Andre climbed up to ABC and get 2 yaks, 2 yak's man and then get Bam Badour on one yaks and head to the other trekkers team member camp at 5700m. While the yaks and 2 yak's man were making their way down, Claude-Andre run ahead to 5700m and, at 8h00 PM, reach the trekkers camp and inform Jean-Pierre Danvoye and Francois Loubert of the incident. Jean-Pierre, Francois and Claude-Andre climb up and at 8h10 PM meet the yaks and Bam Badour. It is at this moment that Francois, who is a doctor, notice that Bam was suffering of serious cerebral and pulmonary edema. Francois get the needed medicine to Bam. They could then make their way down, it took 2 hours. But just near the 5700m camp their was a part that couldn't be done with the yaks so Jean-Pierre Danvoye get Bam on his back and climb the hard part of the trail to the his camp. 

At 8h30, the trekkers camp Claude-Andre meet Chris a guide from Russell Brice (Himalayan climber and guide) who gave his help and contacted his team at the Base Camp to inform them about the incident and advise them that the rescue team were going down carrying Bam at a lower altitude. One trekker's cook set a yak and Jean-Pierre Danvoye, Francois Loubert headed to the Base Camp. 

Francois said it was the perfect night, not too cold, high visibility and low wind, to do the rescue. At 12h30 AM they arrived at the Base Camp (5200m) where everything was set up to place Bam Badour in a safe place where oxygen was available. Bam received more care and medicine from Francois. 

Bam's condition is much better now, but still isn't able to stand up. 

Francois's summary: 

1. If Claude-Andre didn't reach Bam Badour and get him down Bam chance to live were not high.

2. The speed trekker's cook had set up the yak make the rescue really fast as it needed.

3. The help of Chris, Russell Brice's guide, was also so much helpful because with his telecom. equipment it make the Base Camp guys set up the coming of Bam. 

That's all I know for now. I'm really glad it's finishing like that! 

Dominic Danvoye

Everest Millenium electronic's communication responsible and Montreal's based contact.

Prιsident AZUR Informatique Inc. 

Daily News: 4/17/2000 Report

  • Danish Expedition: Thrane & Thrane

The satellite communication company, Thrane & Thrane, is sponsoring the first all Danish Mount Everest Expedition. The expedition named ‘BigE – Thrane & Thrane Danish Everest Expedition 2000’ -  All eight members of the BigE-expedition are among the most experienced Danish climbers with significant mountaineering experience. Leader of the expedition and team doctor is Henrik Jessen Hansen. Henrik Jessen Hansen has been on five earlier expeditions to the Himalayas, including one to Mount Everest in 1996. This year was a disastrous year at Mount Everest with numerous casualties. As a result, Henrik Jessen Hansen had to give up his personal attempt to reach the summit. Instead Henrik Jessen Hansen established the world's highest emergency hospital, where he performed important and needed rescue help.

Update: Hello EverestNews.com

Some news from Big E Thrane & Thrane Danish Everest Expedition 2000. 

4 of our guys are now in camp 2 at 6500 meter. No problems with headache or nausea. They told me on the walkie that we are lucky this year. In '96 we had to cross the bergsschrund where the normal route crosses. Directly up from camp 2 the crevasse was about 15 meters wide and practically impossible. But this year we can go directly up and across the bergsschrund, it's only a few meters wide. This makes it much more safe for us. In '96 I had a close escape with rocks being loosened by climber up on the Geneva spur. We had to cross the face in the fall line of the Geneva spur.

So we are in for a safer trip this year.

The icefall is also not to bad. There is one pitch that resembles "the mousetrap" from '96 but otherwise there are fewer ladders and seemingly not too many  really dangerously looking places. On the other hand "the mousetrap" itself did not collapse last time though some of the supporting seracs did collapse. It's not always the most obvious places that danger lurks. Best regards,

Bo Belvedere Christensen 

Big E Thrane & Thrane Danish Everest Expedition 2000. 

Check the Danish reports at http://www.tt.dk 

  • Everest Spring 2000: Everest Dream

I will be resting at BC 4/14, 4/15 and 4/16 and will head for Camp II on 4/17. Next update may be after 4/20... Thank you all for your support... Love, Saeed 

April 8, 2000 Sagarmatha Base Camp :Greetings from the BC. I had my first climb up the famous Khumbu Ice Fall today. I made my climb solo up the ice fall because the Sherpa guides are waiting for our Puja ceremony before start climbing the mountain. Puja means "Giving Prayer" to the mountain gods and goddesses. As you may know the media has introduced the Khumbu ice fall a "moving ice monster" that eats the climbers every so often and spits their skeletons out after many years!!! I, on the other hand, found the ice fall to be one of the most beautiful places that I have ever seen on my past climbs. I was so much taken by its beauty and shot so much video and pictures that half way up I ran out of time and I had to return to BC before dark. I have many pictures and videos to share with all of you when I get back. My evening ended with a good dinner and the listening pleasure of Beethoven piano concerto No. 3 which is a master piece like all his other works. As I was listening to this work in my tent curled up in my sleeping bag I noticed that the fact that I am listening to Beethoven at Sagarmatha's BC is owed initially to my oldest brother Majid who  introduced me to climbing and classical music and secondly to all the sponsors and supporters of the "Everest Dream". Thank you all for your support... The Everest Dream climb with the cause of "Unity between Iranian & American People" has earned recognition at the BC and the united Iran & USA flags will be raised at the Puja ceremony on April 10th at our camp. I will fill you in with more details and possibly a picture then... Saeed 

April 9, 2000 Sagarmatha Base Camp 

Today was a rest day at BC and the first half of the day was spent on cleaning and house keeping activities around the tent. It was a windy day overall but I was able to videotape the Sherpas as they were getting ready for the Puja Ceremony. Jeff Warden from Canada arrived at our camp around 9:30 AM which was quite early thinking that the ceremony was today. He brought a pair of Walki-Talkies with him. Many thanks to Soheila that with such a short notice from Kathmandu Fed-Ex them to him and now we had them. We will be testing them in the next few days. The day ended up being a cloudy and windy day with a dusting of snow in our camp. At camp everyone is looking forward to the Puja ceremony which is taking place tomorrow... 

Saeed 

April 10th, 2000 Sagarmatha Base Camp (17,600'):

We could not have picked a better day for the Puja ceremony. A perfect calm and sunny day at our camp. Tswang Dorje Sherpa came to my tent and asked for my flag. He was excited to see the large Iran & USA flag sewn together. The Iran & USA conflict had reached his little village also and he with his broken english replied, "Goot for Iran and USA peace, too many years not peace...". The ceremony started with chanting of the local Lama who was the father of the Sirdar of our Expedition. After a full hour of chanting all six Sherpas who are supporting the expedition, raised the country flags as well as prayer flags. I videotaped and photographed the whole ceremony which was ended with throwing rice flower and rice in the air to bring good Kerma to our climb and make peace with the mountains. Around noon the weather changed direction and clouds moved in with a dusting of snow in the late afternoon. I will be leaving BC to camp I tomorrow to acclimatize to the higher elevation. At this point the climbers in my camp are: Jeff Warden from Canada, Bill Zachary from USA, Carlos from Spain and Anna from Poland. Saeed 

April 11, 2000 Sagarmatha Camp I (19,700'):

I left BC about 8:30 AM this morning for Camp I under nice sunny weather. The route to Camp I goes through the famous Khumbu Ice Fall among large pieces of ice and snow and across ladders that have been put across large crevasses. I went through the ice fall carefully and made it to Camp 1 about 3:30 PM in a blizzard. At first it was difficult to find the tent that had been set up for me by Sherpas earlier but using the radio contact with BC I located my tent and shortly after I was in the safety of my tent melting snow for water to make soup for dinner. It was quite a windy afternoon and the wind continued on all night. I crawled into my sleeping bag at about 7:00 O'clock and fell asleep listening to the sound of the wind... Saeed 

April 12, 2000 Sagarmatha Camp I (19,700') 

I did not leave my sleeping bag until the sun hit my tent at about 8:45 in the morning. Carlos from Spain was already up and running at that time and was getting ready to start the day in his tent next to mine. It wasn't until I heard our Sherpas arrive, they are carrying loads from BC to II, that I dressed and went outside. It was a beautiful, calm and sunny day outside and after talking to Sherpas they continued on to camp II and I went back in the tent to make breakfast. I made some noodle soup for breakfast and a bottle of energy drink afterward and stepped out to explore the camp. For the rest of the day I talked to other groups who were resting in camp I.  Camp II is also considered an advanced Base Camp -- ABC -- because after proper acclimatization climbers will be spending much time there to get ready to advance to higher camps and eventual summit attempt. The day ended again with an afternoon storm that pushed everyone to their tents. But the night was quite calm and clear and I did dare to come out of tent in the middle of the night to watch the beautiful starry sky... Saeed 

April 13, 2000 Sagarmatha Camp I to BC (19,700') --> (17,600') 

I awoke to with my pre-assigned radio contact with Jeff who was coming to Camp I. After a short conversation we assigned our next contact in the Ice Fall as he was coming up and I was going down. After melting some snow for hot water and getting ready to go down I got out of the tent to a nice and sunny day to take some video and pictures of the Camp I. I noticed that someone called me across the camp. It was Ray -- the Armenian climber -- who had arrived late the day before. After a conversation  I left Camp I about 9:00 and an hour later I ran into Jeff Warden who was coming up and Finn Olaff Jones -- whom I met in DC a few weeks before my departure -- on his way down. Everyone was in good shape and after a short conversation we continued on to get out of the Ice Fall faster. On the way down to BC I noticed that I was somewhat dehydrated and low in energy and I did not have any sugar product with me so I added a couple of packets of vitamin C powder to my water and that boosted some energy to make it down. I was at the bottom of the Ice Fall at noon and after a short walk I was invited for lunch at Babu Jiri's expedition tent were I saw Hugo Rodriguez -- The Mexican Climber who made it through the night at the south summit on Everest in 1997 -- and Gabrielle -- a Canadian climber whom I met in Namche Bazar --. Since they had a Russian doctor conducting research on high altitude mountaineers, I gave blood to get some feed back on the effects of having slept two nights at 19,700'. I had a pleasent lunch with the team and returned to my camp at 2:00 PM and was greeted by the rest of folks at camp. I settled in at my tent and after the radio contact with Jeff at Camp I and having dinner, I passed out and slept like a baby till the next morning... Saeed 

Saeed's dispatches/pictures and more from Nepal can be found at www.everestdream.com

  • Recent News

Graham Hoyland and the BBC returns to Everest in Spring 2000 in search of the camera and Irvine. EverestNews.com

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Mountain Madness for Everest Spring 2000

List of Expeditions who have paid for their permits in Nepal

In search of Mike Matthews' Body

Reinhold Messner latest adventure

The Quest for 14

Death on the way to Everest continued

Death on the way to Everest

EverestNews.com has learned a 14 year boy plans to attempt the Summit of Everest in Spring 2000

Juan Oiarzabal, "To the Edge of The Impossible" or AL FILO DE LO IMPOSIBLE in Spanish: Expedition to recreate the ascent of 1924 of Mallory and Irvine of Everest. This expedition is already underway.

Summary of Canadian Expeditions on Everest in Spring 2000

Graham Hoyland's Lecture "Unraveling the Mystery of George Mallory" in the Baird Auditorium at the National Museum of Natural History.

Alan Hinkes Q&A

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Adventure Consultants for Everest Spring 2000

Close Does Not Count for Records

ALAN HINKES TARGETS THIRD HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN THE WORLD, KANGCHENJUNGA AS TWELFTH MOUNTAIN ON HIS CHALLENGE TO ACHIEVE BRITISH RECORD

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe for Everest Spring 2000

Spanish Climber to attempt the Messner route on Everest

Change of Guard at the Khumbu Ice Fall

Graham Hoyland and the BBC returns to Everest in Spring 2000 in search of the camera and Irvine.

Jochen Hemmleb Q&A Part 7

India climber plans to spend the night on the Summit

For all the April 2000 News

For all the March 2000 News

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