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 Daily News: 4/18/2000 Report

Latest Updates Direct from Everest from the BBC in search of the camera and Irvine 

April 8th
This is my third trip to this side of the mountain, and I'm still stunned by the sheer size of Mount Everest.
April 7th
This lodge is rather like a medieval motel.
Road to Tingri
April 6th
There was a huge explosion and rocks started raining down on the roof.
April 5th
There was blood all over the red plush of the bell-boy's trolley
April 4th
We paid for prayers to be said for our Sherpas and for ourselves, and left.
Click on the picture above to take you to the full BBC Dispatch

The BBC web site is http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/exploration/everest/ 

  • Everest Spring 2000: Adventure Consultants Featured Expedition on EverestNews.com

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Adventure Consultants in Spring 2000.  Adventure Consultants is a world renowned expedition climbing company with a legacy of ascents to the more remote and wild peaks on our planet. Quality service, complete commitment and success are the hallmarks of Adventure Consultants, as are Guy Cotter and the qualified guides and staff who are the driving force behind Adventure Consultants’ expeditions. http://www.adventure.co.nz 

Dispatch April 15th: Life at Base Camp

Base camp appears like a small town, but no attempt at town planning! Looking down from above there are splashes of color; blue, yellow and orange randomly grouped together.  There is a pattern of sorts. Each team has a large cook tent, many of them built from stone with tarpaulin stretched across for a roof.  Close by is a dining tent. Some are large frame tents, some domes, some stone buildings like the kitchen. Associated with each are a myriad of small tents fighting for flat areas on the moraine amidst rocky piles and icy lakes.  The tents from one group merge with the next.  To wind a trail between these groups is a struggle of loose rock, melting ice and a disturbance of privacy. The Adventure Consultants camp follows the same pattern.  We have a large and ever busy kitchen.  The work counter is built from stone yet resembles a busy restaurant.  Five kerosene stoves sit amidst pots and pans, plate racks and stacks of herbs and spices.  It's warm,  so is a communal meeting area always busy with Sherpas drinking tea and exchanging news.  Our three cooks sleep on the benches at night. 

The dining tent sits next door, a bright yellow frame tent.  Inside is a home from home.  Flowers and tablecloths on the table, a stereo on the back wall and a limitless selection of drinks and snacks. Even vegemite for the Kiwis far from home!  A globe hangs from the ceiling so we can at least plan the route to a warm Indonesian island...... 

Additionally there are two larger tents.  The communication tent is a technological treat.  With power from three solar panels we run a satellite phone, fax and computer with e mail. A high tech radio system links base camp with the four camps on the mountain.  Daily contact with home is no problem.  The other is the medical tent, ready but hopefully unnecessary. 

The members sleep in orange Macpac Spectrum XPD tents creating a cozy haven of privacy. Last and not least are the facilities.  There is also a shower tent with a shower bag, a delight on a warm morning. Many nationalities are represented here from Andalucia to Yugoslavia. Their flags fly from their camps and meetings between the various expedition leaders to determine strategies and cooperative work on the mountain represent a mini United Nations. Warm mornings turn to snow showers by mid afternoon sending chilled expedition members to the shelter of their tents for an afternoon nap or a good book only to reconvene for the evening meal before the long chilly night. 

Beginning about 4.00am kerosene stoves fire up to begin the process of breakfast for climbers and Sherpas heading up the mountain. By 5.00am there is the sound of boots on gravel as members of the many teams here head up the Khumbu icefall before the heat of the day makes travel unpleasant. 

It's a constant turn around as loads and climbers come and go from the mountain ferrying loads to the higher camps in preparation for the summit bid in some 4 weeks time.  

Guy Cotter

Dispatch April 16th: Team at camp One

News from Guy Cotter and Dr Rachel Bishop at Everest BC

David, Yuki and Andy arose at 4.30 for breakfast after a snowy night slowly broke to expose the odd star and promise of a fine morning. Away at 5.00am they were headed for the icefall an camp 1(6000m). Our 5 climbing Sherpas lead by Ang Dorje Sherpa left at the same time to deposit loads of food, tentage and other at camp 1 to be utilized by the climbing team as they stay at the higher elevations to acclimatize themselves to the thinner atmosphere. The plan is to stay at C1 for 2 nights then move onto CII at 6500m for three nights. The Sherpa team will return to BC daily to be in position to carry another load up the mountain the following day.

6.30am. A radio call from David informs us here at BC that Andy is still feeling weak from a mild illness from two days previous and instead of thrashing himself has decided to stay at BC for another days rest and will join the group tomorrow. He arrives back 7.00am feeling fine but just not quite strong enough to  today.

9.40am. David radios from Camp One (C1). He and Yuki are at the camp site and getting ready to rest for the next two night before moving to Camp Two (C2). All ok and feeling strong! 

Yesterday a meeting was convened at Henry Todd's camp for discussions about rope fixing above C 2. The group consisted mostly of the commercial operators and good headway was made in regard to responsibilities for rope fixing. Weather forecasting was discussed and it was concluded that Guy Cotter would be the information conduit for weather and to ensure the continued communication between the groups. Radio frequencies were shared to ensure communication in case of mishap and protocols were discussed to ensure friends and family receive first hand information. In previous years there has been some abhorrent behavior from individuals trying to feed the media with news of any disaster or calamity before this has been reported through the correct channels. Whilst it was recognized that we couldn't stop other teams on the mountain from making these reports we felt unanimously that we need not all act like parasites. The worst case of this here was when an individual recorded radio communications between a dying climber and his wife and then sold the tapes to a book writer. 

  • Annapurna Spring 2000: 

EverestNews.com will follow the attempt on Annapurna of the "International Annapurna 2000 Expedition": We think you will find these daily reports very interesting. Go to their site for the pictures and dispatches in Spanish. Their web site:  www.interofer.es/annapurna2000 with reports in Spanish, Pictures and more !

Date: 4/16/2000

Title: The expedition is gathering at base camp

Weather: Snowing (with improvement expected in the coming hours)

Location of Expedition: Base Camp

Next Objective: Study the route to Camp II at 6000 meters

Dispatch: The adverse weather conditions in which the Annapurna region has sunk into, has forced the expedition members to return to base camp. This was done by rappelling on the ropes installed by many teams. At the same time, the Americans returned to base camp after deciding not to follow the French route that looks too dangerous. The snow storm, according to the forecasts will stop in the next hours and lead to three or four days of favorable conditions. However, this may not lead to good climbing due to the avalanche danger from the recent snows.

Title: The expedition is paralyzed

Weather: Intense Snow (temperature at C1 is -9 C inside the tents)

Location of Expedition: On the mountain

Next Objective: Waiting for improved weather

Update: The intense snow that has left almost a half meter of snow. This is preventing to the climbers from leaving their tents. They are hearing considerable amounts of avalanches although they are happening far away from their tents. An American expedition is isolated at camp II at 6000 meters. In the next hours the climbers at Camp I will decide if they stay there hoping improved weather or descend to base camp.

Date: 4/14/2000

Title: The snow has stopped progression to Camp II

Weather: Instable

Location of Expedition: Group I is at Camp I (Dr. Pujante, Feijoo, Ugur) as is Group 2 ( Tapias, Arias and Pascual) and Group 3: 2 Sherpas. Base Camp: Molins and the rest of the Nepali members

Next Objective: If the weather does not permit moving up to Camp II, the groups will come back to base camp.

Update: "Cold, very cold" is how Joaquim Molins describes the weather on the mountain. A cold front has suddenly changed the weather in the Himalayas and has stopped the teams from progressing to Camp II. They are staying in their tents, taking advantage of the time to acclimatize. The thermometers have descended to -9 C inside the tents at Camp 1 and up to -4 C in Base Camp. In addition, there was a small incident where the garlic sausage or salchichσn disappeared, leaving to the climbers without an important and flavorful part of its food. Tomorrow, if the weather improves the team will continues towards camp II. However, if the adverse conditions do not improve, the team will return to base camp which is much more comfortable.

EverestNews.com has added a Spring 2000 Annapurna Page where EverestNews.com will report News on this expedition and other Annapurna News. 

  • A private American expedition:  2000 Everest Environmental 

A team of eight climbers and over 20 Sherpas will climb to Camp 4 on Everest this spring to attempt to bring down hundreds of discarded oxygen bottles and tons of trash left by other climbers in the past. The climbers will also attempt to summit Everest.

Members include Robert Chang, Expedition leader Robert Hoffman of Belmont, CA, (his fourth expedition to Everest), Deputy Expedition leader is Robert Boice of San Francisco. The expedition trek leader is Jamling Tenzing Norgay, the son of one of the first Everest summiteers, Tenzing Norgay. In addition, Sherman Bull, 62, of Stamford, CT, is a physician member. The lead Sherpa is Appa Sherpa.

Current Status: The Inventa Everest 2000 Environmental Expedition team has arrived at Base Camp and set up is going very well. They had their puja ceremony today at 11:00 am. Check their site for the full dispatch

  • Everest Spring 2000: Byron Smith

Current Status: Byron Smith, Tim Rippel and the Everest 2000 Expedition Sherpa sirdar Lhakpa Tshering were delayed going through the icefall today. They had left Basecamp early in the morning, about an hour behind their team of nine Sherpas which had gone ahead with equipment to Camp II. Before they could get through to the end, a giant ice serac collapsed near the lip of the icefall, completely destroying the route in that section. 

The nine Sherpas who were up ahead had passed that section, so Byron, Tim and Lhakpa were separated from their teammates and had to return to Basecamp. 

Today's diary entry is another update from Virginia Robinson, in her ongoing Physician's log. 

Check his diary entry for more http://cbc.ca/everest2000/

  • Recent News

Problems on the North Side

Graham Hoyland and the BBC returns to Everest in Spring 2000 in search of the camera and Irvine. EverestNews.com

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Mountain Madness for Everest Spring 2000

List of Expeditions who have paid for their permits in Nepal

In search of Mike Matthews' Body

Reinhold Messner latest adventure

The Quest for 14

Death on the way to Everest continued

Death on the way to Everest

EverestNews.com has learned a 14 year boy plans to attempt the Summit of Everest in Spring 2000

Juan Oiarzabal, "To the Edge of The Impossible" or AL FILO DE LO IMPOSIBLE in Spanish: Expedition to recreate the ascent of 1924 of Mallory and Irvine of Everest. This expedition is already underway.

Summary of Canadian Expeditions on Everest in Spring 2000

Graham Hoyland's Lecture "Unraveling the Mystery of George Mallory" in the Baird Auditorium at the National Museum of Natural History.

Alan Hinkes Q&A

EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Adventure Consultants for Everest Spring 2000

Close Does Not Count for Records


EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe for Everest Spring 2000

Spanish Climber to attempt the Messner route on Everest

Change of Guard at the Khumbu Ice Fall

Graham Hoyland and the BBC returns to Everest in Spring 2000 in search of the camera and Irvine.

Jochen Hemmleb Q&A Part 7

India climber plans to spend the night on the Summit

For all the April 2000 News

For all the March 2000 News

The Mountaineering Must Haves


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