8000 Meter Peaks

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 Daily News: 4/21/2000 Report

The "Summit Issue" continues:

What do Reinhold Messner, Erhard Loretan, Krzysztof Wielicki, Carlos Carsolio, and Juan Oiarzabal, the five men still alive who have reached all the Summits of the 14 8000 meter peaks, have to say about what the Summit is. 

There has been some debate about climbers claiming to have completed "Summits" of the 14 8000 meter peaks when in fact they had not reached the True Summit (the top) of a peak. Usually, they have reached a lower fore summit, but they or the people in charge of their press reports that they have completed that peak on the way to the 14 8000 meter peaks.

EverestNews.com has taken this issue very seriously. We have reached out to climbers, readers & historians (the record keepers) to get their views on this issue. Including the journalists at Desnivel that assisted with this story.

All the feedback from everyone is clear. The Summit is the Summit, not a fore summit or a lower summit, but the top. 

The world according to Webster's: summit. The highest point or part; the top, as of a mountain. Case closed.

The Issue seems clear. If you have not reached "THE" summit, you have not completed the peak. 

Here is what the greatest living climbers in the world have to say about this issue. 

Reinhold Messner: "All the 8,000ers have one, nothing else and that is a main summit. According to his or her personal experience, each person must decide by himself or herself where they have been. Always for me the most important thing is not where the others have gone but the experience lived through". 

Erhard Loretan: "This 'race' is a little outside the objective. I do not believe that it is a race between climbers rather it is between the "media". Perhaps I am mistaken. If people want to play, in my opinion, the climber must reach the highest point and without oxygen, of course. In fact, if you have a minimum of ethics, your heart will say to you if your climbing is clean or not. Personally, I went twice to Shishapangma because the first time, in 1990, the route to the main summit was dangerous ". 

Krzysztof Wielicki: "If we agree that the 14 8,000ers' main summits means that "the highest point" then this always the main summit". 

Carlos Carsolio: "To complete the 14 8,000ers one talks about reaching main summits of the fourteen mountains. These mountains have 21 independent summits of more than 8000 meters, and a considerable amount of "antesummits"  (he considers an antesummit the central top of Shishapangma), if these are subsidiary summits then there are 22). That is to say, to be able to complete the fourteen, you must reach the highest point of each one. An interesting challenge for the generations of the future is to get to complete 21 summits, one of them even remains unclimbed - the Mid Lhotse summit". 

Juanito Oiarzabal "The summit is the summit and peculiarly it agrees with the highest point " 

This issue is crystal clear folks. EverestNews.com considers this issue closed. We encourage climbers and media to live by the standards set before by their peers. If a climber wants his or her name mentioned with the likes of these great climbers, then do it right !

  • Everest North Side: Graham and The BBC

Latest Updates Direct from Everest

Base Camp
April 14th
All we can hope to do is to give Sandy Irvine a decent burial, safe from the birds and souvenir-hunters, and try to find out what happened on the last day of his life.
Base Camp
April 13th
Mark and I take a walk up the left-hand bank of the Rongbuk glacier to get a closer look at Everest, just as Mallory did in 1921 on his reconnaissance of the mountain.
Base Camp
April 12th
These are not even pure yaks, they are crossed with cows to make them more biddable. Heaven knows what the pure yaks would be like.
Base Camp
April 11th
Thick snow fell overnight, I am reluctant to get up. Yesterday at this time I was stripped to the waist, in warm sunlight. Today there's a chill wind and snow on the ground.
Dawa Temba Sherpa Base Camp
April 10th
A windless morning for the puja: the Sherpa ceremony. This ritual is most important to all of us as it placates the mountain gods.

Check our Mallory & Irvine 2000, Graham and the BBC returns, page for more

  • Everest North Side: The Dutch 

Three Dutch Climbers Frits Vrijlandt, Steven Le Poole, and Joke Groenendaal: Frits and Steven, will attempt to climb Everest via the North ridge. Joke will keep you updated.

Rough night at ABC

ADVANCED BASE CAMP - Last night, the expedition members spent their first night at Advanced Base Camp. Most team members did not enjoy it at all. Steven calls it a 'totally awful night' and Joke has been sick.

Click for entire article

Check them out: http://www.everest.home.nl/ for the full details.

  • The North Side: Spanish Retena Expedition Odyssey

The five members of the Retena Expedition Odyssey Everest 2000 have arrived at ABC. http://www.everest-2000.com/ 

  • Annapurna Spring 2000: 

EverestNews.com will follow the attempt on Annapurna of the "International Annapurna 2000 Expedition": We think you will find these daily reports very interesting. Go to their site for the pictures and dispatches in Spanish. Their web site:  www.interofer.es/annapurna2000 with reports in Spanish, Pictures and more !


Title: The avalanches restrain the progression.

Weather: Sunny

Expedition Location: Base Camp at 4180 meters

Next Objective: Climb to Camp II to study the snow

Update: we observed avalanches occurring 2000 meters directly above the route.  We met and decided to postpone any planned activity planned. The risk is too high to undertake any climbing. The weather is still adverse. It snows every day in the afternoon and during the night. The high temperatures during the day, cause the snow pack to become unstable. " In spite of our desire to climb, prudence prevails", it explains Joaquνm ' Jakι Molins, via satellite from the base camp. 

EverestNews.com has added a Spring 2000 Annapurna Page where EverestNews.com will report News on this expedition and other Annapurna News. 

  • Canadian Everest Expedition 2000:

Current Status: Up to Camp II: Ben Webster was the only one of the four CEE 2000 climbers who found the ascent to Camp II (6500m) easy going. Check Ben's diary

You can get full details on the Canadians at the Canadian Everest Expedition 2000's official website -- http://www.canoe.ca/Everest/home.html

  • Updated ! More to come ....

Kangchenjunga 2000

Annapurna 2000

For all the April 2000 News

For all the March 2000 News

The Mountaineering Must Haves


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