8000 Meter Peaks

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For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories.  Receiving Reports from over 25 Teams on Everest this Spring 2000.

Makalu 2000: Dhaulagiri 2000: Lhotse 2000: Cho Oyu 2000:  Updated

Manaslu 2000: Kangchenjunga 2000: Annapurna 2000 Updated

NEWSFLASH 4/26/2000 8:18PM EST

  • It is starting !!! 

Are you ready ? 

Christine Boskoff reporting for Mountain Madness from Everest base camp for April 26th:  Tomorrow, April 27th, Peter Habeler and I will climb to Camp 2.  We will be picking up weather reports from base camp and if the reports are favorable we will begin our attempt on the summit.  If the winds continue to be high we will stay at Camp II until the weather improves. 

Rolf will be sending reports from base camp while we are up on the mountain. Until later..... 


  • Who would have guessed Peter Habeler might be the first man to Summit Everest in the Year 2000 and without O2 !
  • Look for Byron Smith to move out too. Byron, Tim, and their Sherpa climbers are extremely strong. Tim will be filming Byron to the Summit.

EverestNews.com will go live 24 hours a day when Summits Attempts on Everest begin.

NEWSFLASH 4/26/2000 3:34PM EST

Mallory & Irvine 2000: Graham and the BBC returns

Latest Updates Direct from Everest from the BBC 

Adv. Base Camp
April 21st
It's hard here on man and machine alike... we learn that our third laptop computer has died.
Adv. Base Camp
April 20th
Mark Whetu and I climb up to the North Col. We have incredible views all around. On our left rises the enormous bulk of Everest itself, with the summit visible.
Adv. Base Camp
April 19th
This morning we have had a refresher course in how to climb up and down the ropes that Russell and the Sherpas have put up to the North Col.
Adv. Base Camp
April 18th
I'm trying to get into George Mallory and Sandy Irvine's minds, to try to understand what they would have done on their last day.
Adv. Base Camp
April 17th
Another tough slog up to ABC. I'm particularly scared of this section as last year I had a TIA, a sort of mini-stroke, as I staggered into the camp.

Click on the link above to take you to the full BBC Dispatch

For older News go to the Mallory & Irvine 2000 Page.

NEWSFLASH 4/26/2000 8:48AM EST

Alberto and Felix Inurrategi with Pepe Garces reached the Summit of Manaslu on 4/25/2000 which is believed to be the first Summit of the Year 2000 for a 8000 meter peak.

Alberto and Felix Inurrategi are attempting to finish the 14 8000 meters peaks this year. They now will be off to Annapurna !!! These guys are special.

You will recall Pepe from EverestNews.com coverage of K2 the last two years where Pepe has been an Expedition member. Pepe has also joined the Quest for 8000.

Daily News: 4/26/2000 Report

  • Everest North Side:

Communications are back up !

Juan Oiarzabal Expedition attempting to recreate the ascent of 1924 of Mallory and Irvine, is at 7800 meters and moving up in wool !

Yes, in wool don't you just love it. For more details see our earlier reports including: Juan Oiarzabal

The Russians are still going strong. Climbers are openly discussing who wants to be first up in 2000. The "First Up" on the North side is a dangerous race with deaths occurring commonly on the first day of Summits/attempts on the North Side in recent years. 

Camp 1 is established for some, Camp 2 for others...

  • Everest South Side:

Camp 4 is being established. Looks like early May for Summit attempts. 

  • Canadian Everest Expedition 2000:

Current Status: One more shot: After six days of rest in Dingbouche, Canadian climber Gabriel Filippi has returned to Base Camp with a clean bill of health.

You can get full details on the Canadians at the Canadian Everest Expedition 2000's official website -- http://www.canoe.ca/Everest/home.html

  • Everest Spring 2000: Byron Smith

Current Status: Snow is still falling at Everest Base camp with the Sherpas from Byron Smith's team still waiting out the weather before going up to the higher camps to stock Camp IV. Byron, Tim Rippel and seven Sherpas will make their summit push once the camp is fully stocked.

For video updates, background information, interactive maps and more on check his diary entry for more http://cbc.ca/everest2000/

  • Mountain Madness

    Christine Boskoff - Expedition Leader: The only American woman alive to have reached the Summit of Four 8000 meter peaks: Gasherbrum II-West Ridge(1999),  Lhotse-West Face (1997), Cho Oyu-West Face (1996),  Broad Peak-West Rib (1995). Only a few America men have reached more.

    Peter Habeler - Austria: Owner and Director of the Alpinschule Mount Everest, President of the Austrian Alpine Club, First man, along with Reinhold Messner, to summit Everest without supplemental oxygen (1978). 8000 meter peaks:  Kangchenjunga, Nanga Parbat, G-I (Hidden Peak), Cho Oyu

    Dispatch: Christine Boskoff reporting for Mountain Madness from Everest Base Camp April 25: 

    It began to snow here yesterday at base camp.  It is truly our first winter (spring) storm.  On the 24th the Sherpas came down off the mountain with many of the climbers.  The rest of the climbers descended to base camp today.  On Monday we had to say good bye to one of our teammates, Ray Yeritsen.  He has sustained a back injury that will prevent him from going to the summit. 

    We got a weather report yesterday predicting a couple days of bad weather then clearing on Wednesday.  However, the winds are expected to be picking up.  We are not sure when we will be going for our summit attempt. A recap of the past weeks events:  on April 17th Peter Habeler and I climbed to Camp II and slept.  On the 18th we went up high on the Lhotse Face, returned to Camp II to sleep.  On the 19th we remained at Camp II and went up to Camp III on the 20th and spent the night.  April 21st brought us back to base camp where we have been resting.  We will continue to rest at base camp until the snow lets up. 

    Until then....

  • Annapurna Spring 2000: EverestNews.com will follow the attempt on Annapurna of the "International Annapurna 2000 Expedition": We think you will find these daily reports very interesting. Go to their site for the pictures and dispatches in Spanish.

Update 4/25/2000 Snow covers the entire mountain with white.

Weather: Snow, with improvement expected in the next hours.

Location of Expedition: Base Camp

Next Objective: Climb to CI and CII

Dispatch: A front of clouds the covers the bulk of Annapurna. Since we arrived, it has snowed every afternoon. Although there is a risk of avalanche, tomorrow all climbers will go to CI with the intention to climb to CII the next day.  The members of the French military expedition will try to climb Tilicho Peak (7,140 meters) and then to CI.  We know that our CI has been affected by the snow, making the tents into snow-white forts.  We are concerned with the loss of important climbing materials. Of course, the same can be said of CII.  We will not know anything about the status of our materials there until we climb there.  We are prepared for the worst.

Cordially from all team members,

Joaquim 'Jake' Molins

Their web site:  www.interofer.es/annapurna2000 with reports in Spanish, Pictures and more !

  • Another Interesting Expedition:


PROJECT NAME: Real Mera 6654 Expedition

HISTORY: We have noticed that the co-ordinates of Mera peak in the Himalayan Index of Alpine Club are not the same as in the official list by the Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation. That MTCA-list has the same co-ordinates as Himalayan Classification (AAJ Vol.27, issue 59, 1985) but AAJ-list has a bit longer name "Mera (Peak 41)".  Pk. 41 has those co-ordinates in Himalayan Index that belong to Mera in the other lists.

The new topographic map published by the Nepalese officials (sheet 2786 04 SAGARMATHA. His Majesty’s Government of Nepal, Survey Department 1997. Scale 1:50000) has no name to that summit, that is presented as Mera in Schneider (and other) maps. That map presents the name of Mera for summit that is marked as Peak 41 in many other maps and Himalayan Index.

NEAREST FUTURE: A team of four climbers has started from Luklha towards the end of Hinku Khola. There are two members from Finland, Mr. Petri Kaipiainen (age 45) and Juha Saarinen (age 40). The two fellow climbers come from Colorado: Clyde Soles (age 40) and Fred Barth (age 45 approx). The Finnish members had a trek to Gokyo and Everest BC to adapt to the height and came down to Lukhla to meet the American climbers. They had a rest day last Friday and got also supply from the American expedition retiring from Ama Dablam. They shall establish the base camp at the height of 4950 approx. and have 10 days to find a suitable route and to make the first ascent. 

Cheers,-Jukka Tarkkala


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