News. For earlier reports:
See the News Index for a list of all the Daily Reports. See the Home Page for Individual Stories. Receiving Reports from over 25 Teams on Everest this Spring 2000.
2000: Lhotse 2000: Cho
Oyu 2000: Updated
2000: Updated Kangchenjunga
4/27/2000 11:00 EST US
around 11:00 PM Nepal time. Based on the last call from Christine Boskoff
and Peter Habeler, we believe they
are probably at Camp 2.
However, this is not
11:00PM Nepal time. Byron Smith has not left BC. He says the weather
forecast is such that no
one is on the move. The
five-day cast shows real high winds getting up to 80 knots. He
has Sherpas at Camp II but
it is not clear yet if they can go up to stock Camp IV in the next couple
days or not. (Remember Byron and Tim will be using bottled oxygen. Therefore
they must have a supply at Camp 4.) He
says they (Christine
may have gone to Camp II,
but that they wouldn't be
going higher than that for now. Christine Boskoff
and Peter Habeler neither will be using bottled oxygen...
It would be
interesting.. Well TO
if the weather clears, and Christine & Peter go for the Summit as
her last message indicated
(based on the weather clearing). The ropes are clearly not fixed from Camp 4
up! When was the last time someone other
than a Sherpa (Lobsang
Jangbu Sherpa comes to mind in 95), when to the Summit on
the South Side without
someone helping to fix ropes? or without fixed ropes at all ! Now we
will go back to the News and see what happens...
expect anymore news (from Everest) until tonight 11:00PM EST in America,
because it is now night time in Nepal.
Daily News: 4/27/2000 Report
- Everest South Side:
is starting !!!
Are you ready ?
reporting for Mountain Madness from Everest base camp for April 26th:
Tomorrow, April 27th,
Peter Habeler and I will climb to Camp 2.
We will be picking up weather reports from base camp and if
the reports are favorable we will begin our attempt on the summit.
If the winds continue to be high we will stay
at Camp II until the weather improves.
Rolf will be sending reports
from base camp while we are up on the mountain. Until later.....
- Who would have guessed
Peter Habeler might be the first man to Summit Everest in the Year 2000 and
without O2 !
- Look for Byron Smith to
move out too. Byron, Tim, and their Sherpa climbers are extremely strong.
Tim will be filming Byron to the Summit.
go live 24 hours a day
when Summits Attempts on Everest begin.
Camp 3 and moving up !
A little snow does not stop these guys...
Latest Updates Direct
from Everest from the BBC
on the link above to take you to the full BBC Dispatch
hard here on man and machine alike... we learn that our third laptop
computer has died.
Whetu and I climb up to the North Col. We have incredible views all
around. On our left rises the enormous bulk of Everest itself, with
the summit visible.
morning we have had a refresher course in how to climb up and down the
ropes that Russell and the Sherpas have put up to the North Col.
trying to get into George Mallory and Sandy Irvine's minds, to try to
understand what they would have done on their last day.
tough slog up to ABC. I'm particularly scared of this section as last
year I had a TIA, a sort of mini-stroke, as I staggered into the camp.
News go to the Mallory & Irvine 2000 Page.
A team of eight climbers
and over 20 Sherpas will climb to Camp
4 on Everest this spring to attempt to bring down hundreds of discarded
oxygen bottles and tons of trash left by other climbers in the past. Besides
performing this necessary task the group will also attempt to summit Everest.
Members include Robert
Chang, Expedition leader Robert Hoffman of Belmont, CA, (his fourth expedition
to Everest), Deputy Expedition leader is Robert Boice of San Francisco. The
expedition trek leader is Jamling Tenzing Norgay, the son of one of the first
Everest summiteers, Tenzing Norgay. In addition, Sherman Bull, 62, of Stamford,
CT, is a physician member. The lead Sherpa is Appa
April 25,2000 Well, we climbed to Camp 1 again a couple days ago with the
intent to moving to Camp 2 and then 3 and then back to base Camp over a 9 day
period, returning on May 1, then resting for 2-5 days and then go for the
Unfortunately we plan to stay down for
a few days and let the weather blow thru and try all over again. It is like a
bad dream sometimes but not that bad as I am getting faster each time in the
icefall so we don't get caught in there mid day with house size ice chunks
melting out and mashing us like acorns.
There are daily, morning
and evening avalanches you mostly hear, sometimes see. You can tell the big
ones when all the Sherpas come out and yell and cheer (kind of in awe) of the
power of these things. Then there is a silence in contemplation to make sure no
one was in the path of them. We
saw one 2 days ago that came 200 meters within some climbers at about 18,700
feet in the icefall in an
area called the football field, and you could tell they tried to go faster, they
did not get hit, but could
tell they needed new underwear.
Chang, Expedition leader
feature dispatches from this American Expedition
feature full dispatches from Jagged Globe in Spring 2000. Jagged Globe was
founded by Steve Bell. Steve has more than 20 years of mountaineering
experience including winter ascents of the north faces of the Eiger and
Matterhorn. He claims "Britain's first guided expedition to an 8,000m peak
and was the first Briton to lead clients to the summit of Everest." He has
climbed all of the continental summits and is a fully qualified UIAGM mountain
This is another
international team, comprising: Jack Culley (UK), Joe Wolf (USA), Jeff
Magee (UK), David Spencer (UK), Curt Peterson (USA), Timothy Gregg (USA) , Paul
Giorgio (USA). Joe Wolf hopes to complete his 7 Summits and to be the oldest
summiter this season - he's 61 in March!
team acclimatizes at camp 2 and has a scare on the Lhotse Face. Hi again from
the Jagged Globe Everest expedition base camp. In the last week we've had plenty
of activity and a few exciting incidents. All expedition members and staff are
On Thursday 20th
April, the team was saddened to farewell one of our members, Jack Culley, who
had decided to depart for home. Jack was a valued team member and we wish him an
enjoyable and safe trip home.
On the same day, the
majority of the team headed up to camp 1, en route to camp 3 for an
acclimatisation trip. The plan was to move on Friday to camp 2, rest for a day
and then make the long climb to camp 3 for a taste of thin air. Deputy leader
Tim Bird led the group to camp 1, whilst expedition leader Andrew Lock stayed in
base camp to facilitate Jack's departure.
On Friday 21st, the
team trekked from camp 1 up the magnificent Western Cwm, surrounded by the
towering walls of Nuptse, Lhotse and of course Everest, to establish camp 2 at
the foot of Everest's steep south west face. Andrew joined the team by climbing
direct from base camp to camp 2.
An acclimatisation day
at camp 2 was much appreciated by all, as were the continual hot drinks and
meals served up by our Sherpa cooks, Ghombu and Ming Ma. Watching them melt
chunks of ice from the surrounding seracs, one ponders the age of the liquid we
are drinking. Camp 2 serves the purpose of an advance base camp and so is well
stocked for prolonged stays by the expeditioners.
Easter Sunday saw the
whole team, leaders, members and four Sherpas, make a 5.30am departure for the
Lhotse face, the intention being to climb that day to camp 3 around 7300 meters.
Strong winds and low temperatures took the fun out of the hour long journey to
the base of the face. This year the Lhotse face is bare of snow and the climb to
camp 3 is made over the exposed hard ice.
the mountain reminded us all of the potential dangers of climbing these big
peaks. One of the team was only a short distance up the ropes when an anchor
pulled and he slid over 10 meters down the ice. His fall was arrested by the
snow at the base and two of our Sherpa team who were well positioned to assist.
Whilst a nasty scare was the worst injury, we were faced with the need to re-fix
the ropes on the lowest section of the face.
The team returned to
camp 2, to organize the rope and ice equipment for the following day. As luck
would have it, the weather deteriorated that night and saw a heavy dump of snow.
We decided to descend to base camp to allow the avalanche danger to pass and to
rest for a couple of days in the thicker air.
The weather remains a
little fickle but the team are enjoying the base camp services of emails from
home and the opportunity for a hot wash (albeit a quick one in the chill air).
The team are in good health and anxious to continue the climb. Until next time,
best wishes from base camp.
Tim Bird, Deputy
- The Millennium
Seven Summits Expedition lead by Gavin Bate and John Barry.
EverestNews.com will feature full dispatches and photos from this
expedition. Please see below for information on them and their dispatches
from Everest. The
team of seven is made up of John Barry and Gavin Bate, Andy Salter, Polly
Murray , Chris Tiso, George Barlow and Michele Santilhano. Gavin Bate http://adventurealternative.com
just come back from a big excursion on the mountain and we're now back in Base
Camp, resting and relaxing. It's been a big adventure with no shortage of drama
as well as, thankfully, success for our team.
We left Base Camp for
Camp 1 again and made the now predictably exhausting ascent up the Icefall
Route. Since we first went up there, it has changed quite a lot. Seracs have
fallen, new ropes put in, snowfall has blanketed the blue ice and many of the
ladders have buckled and bent. It's still incredibly exciting picking your way
through the ice, though, a massive playground !
In the beginning we
were so careful about crossing crevasses on the ladders. Now we just clip in to
the rope with hardly a break in stride and walk straight across ( no more
creeping across on all fours or, in some cases, flat on our stomachs !).
Sometimes we run and take a jump, taking a quick glimpse of the yawing abyss
descending into blackness below us.
At Camp 1 we settled
into the tents and boiled up liquids. We need to consume at least eight pints a
day to stay on form, so it's lots of soup and tea ! One of us has to rush out
and collect bags of snow and ice to melt, making sure we avoid those areas were
people take a pee ! (that's a really good way of leaving the hill with
horrendous stomach cramps, doubled over like a question mark ). There is a
narrow crevasse a few feet away which people use for a toilet by squatting
astride the gap out in the open ( no pretence at privacy here ! ). The problem
is that people don't always stick to the right place!
Anyway we all sleep
well and we wake at 5am, to get ready to go up to Camp 2. I pop outside to use
the crevasse and it is inhumanly cold ! It must be 20 below with wind chill.
There is a unanimous decision to get deeper into the sleeping bag, turn over and
wait for sun-up. It takes me at least an hour to feel vaguely warm.
The sun comes up and
we realize our mistake. The route to Camp 2 up the Western Cwm is now a trek
through the worlds biggest oven ! It is so hot and it is utterly shade less !
The heat beats into us from all directions, as it bounces off the snow. It is
like walking into a wall. We are so slow ! Hours pass and the camp never seems
to get any closer. What idiots we are to be out in such heat !. Never again will
we do the midday trek up the Western Cwm.
North Face 2 meter dome is such a welcome to see. We settle into our North Face
VE-25 mountain tents and rest. We are now sleeping at 21,500' and it is very
important to take it easy. This end of the Western Cwm is just stunning, an
utterly incredible place to be. Down the valley we can see the whole Nuptse
ridge on one side and on the other, rearing and towering directly above us where
we are camped, the massive SW face of Everest. The summit is right there !
Following the skyline down from the summit is our
route all the way to the South Col and then, following round to the head of the
valley, dominating the entire top end of the Western Cwm is the Lhotse Face -
the guts of 5000 feet of snow and ice going straight up - and almost half way
up, just visible to the naked eye, a tiny huddle of tents in the middle of some
ice cliffs - our Camp 3 !!
tried going up once but turned back after two hours right at the base of the
Lhotse Face itself where the ropes start, because Polly had a mild chest
infection and the freezing cold air was such an irritant that she coughed all
the time. Back to Camp and more resting. Next morning we were up at 4am. The
Sherpas start their climbing day with boiled pasta in hot milk which I'm afraid
was beyond our Western stomachs ! We had porridge. .The
Sherpas are going all the way to South Col to start putting gear in for us -
super humans, they really are. A couple of
hours later and we're at the base of the Lhotse
Face. It's just plain massive. John hands out instructions like mad as we check
harnesses, knots, crampons, gulp liquid, snatch a mouth of chocolate. We're
stamping feet and wind milling arms to keep warm. Above us, 2500 feet straight
blue ice, it's high, it's never-ending and there's
a storm coming in. We are using jumars and the first section is more or less
front-pointing. Within minutes I am exhausted. I glance down at Andy and am glad
to see he looks exactly the same - already tired ! Now it is just a matter of
concentration on the ice and stamina to keep going.
But it is
fantastic climbing ! Looking up I can see John hammering his front points into
the cliff and the thousands of chips of ice shower down on me, blown violently
into my face by the wind. I am wriggling my toes like mad and balling my hands
one by one to stop the cold from eating into me. Then it's my turn - put a foot
up, hammer it into the ice, check it's safe, put some weight on, haul up on the
jumar and push up, place the next foot, and on and on like that. Every three
steps everyone stops and gasps and gasps - from a distance we appear virtually
stationery, tiny dots on vast face. Sometimes the angle is steep, sometimes not
so steep; sometimes it is sheer blue ice, others times snow-covered - but all
the time it is absolutely, totally and utterly exhausting ! John leads with
Chris behind, then me, Andy, Polly and Michele. Each time I glance down I see
Andy moving up towards me and swear - I need to carry on ! If he's resting, I
can rest too ! We are too tired to talk, just a meeting of eyes is enough for us
to communicate the same message - what a monster !
After six hours we get
to Camp 3, a precarious perch at 23,500' - two tents pitched together right on
an edge. About fifty feet away are some ruins of tents from other groups - hmmm,
great. We all pile into one tent and sprawl all over each other. I am squatting
in the porch sorting out rucksacks, crampons and so on, John has one stocking
foot stuck in Andy's armpit because it's cold, Chris is passing round bottles of
water, Polly unfortunately ) has to go to the toilet and Michele is still an
hour down the slope.
the wind really picks up and there is masses of spindrift. It is blowing a
hoolie out there ! Michele eventually comes in, shattered, but we have little
time. We have to get out of here and fast. Above the sound of the wind we
suddenly hear this deep booming sound. It takes a moment to work out what it is
- "That" says John, "is the wind going through the South
Col". There can be no more frightening sound than that, I swear. Suddenly
where we are and what we are doing is put into bleak perspective. This is
Everest, no doubt about it !
One at a
time we get ready to leave. I go first. No ! I have to go for a pee ! Flash
freeze ! Chris crawls out as well and we help each other. I'm glad we're going
down together. I'm shaking with cold.
have nearly three thousand feet to go down - how to do it ? Easy. Face forward
down the hill, wrap one arm round the rope and go as fast as you can without
losing control ! At times we're jogging. panting madly, punching the crampons
into the ice and thinking "what the heck am I doing?".
is howling and all feeling in my face is gone. Icicles are hanging from my beard
and the snot is freezing as it drips out of my nose. Despite the cold and the
tiredness and the intense concentration, it is an amazing experience and utterly
adrenalin-pumping ! Here we are, rushing face forward down the Lhotse Face on
Everest in a storm ! It's incredible! Some parts my crampons slip on the ice but
there's no stopping, except to clip our safety karabiner onto the next line.
Sometimes, when it's just too steep, I put in the figure of eight and abseil
right behind me and we're shouting to each other - "Line clear !" -
but we can't see each other, the visibility is so poor. Then Polly appears
behind Chris and the three of us reach the bottom of the Lhotse Face. We've done
it. Now we race back to Camp 2 as fast as possible.
Michele, who is coming down with John and Andy, takes a tumble just at the
bottom of the Face on the way down and hurts her face. She's fine but the three
of them come in about an hour later. Everyone is tired but pretty elated - we've
made it to Camp 3 and we're all okay!
we motor down to Base Camp in quick time and pig out on fried eggs, chips and
fried bread ! Forget all that rubbish about careful diets ! Your body tells you
what you want - and we CRAVED a big fatty fried meal ! Next on the list was a
can of San Miguel !
dive into our shower tent - a large metal bucket of water on top of a kerosene
heater and a jug. You stand naked on a piece of karrimat and do the best
you can ! We absolutely stink and our clothes reek - all part of the fun of a
mountaineering expedition !
resting. It's snowing very heavily and we are worried about our tents at Camp 3
collapsing. Tomorrow we will probably go down the valley for another breath of
rich air in Lobuje. We'll be gone for about three days. The next group of
trekkers is coming up to visit us and they've got our order - Stilton cheese,
haggis, thick cut orange marmalade, the Times newspaper, Yachting Monthly,
Sambuca, Earl Grey Tea - the small luxuries in life that are so important !
So, we're all okay and
our plan is as follows - weather dependant !!
just got our first weather forecast from Bracknell (Met Office) and it's not too
great. The jet streams are still quite low and there are expected 80 knot winds.
5 - 27 April Lobuje rest,
8 - 30 April Base Camp rest, prepare for summit attempt, 1 May Go to Camp 1, 2
May Go to Camp 2, 3 May Rest at Camp 2, 4 May Go to Camp 3, sleep on oxygen, 5
May Go to Camp 4 ( South Col ) on oxygen, 6 May Summit day, back to S. Col,
rest, 7 May Clear Camp 4, go to Camp 2, 8 May Go to Base Camp
just got our first weather forecast from Bracknell (Met Office) and it's not too
great. The jet streams are still quite low and there are expected 80 knot winds
at 24,000' on 28 April which means it will be difficult for the Sherpas to stock
some of our high camps. To put it into perspective, our storm the other day was
probably around 35 knots ! So, we'll just have
and see. At the moment it's just nice to sleep a lot. Main conversations now
revolve around the amount of food and drink we're going to consume when we get
back to Kathmandu.
of the Everest team I would like to extend our thanks to all the messages of
support from the many people who have sent emails. This may sound soft, but it
really does make a difference to know that people out there are egging us on.
Classic example - 9 year old David Alexander sent us a great little good luck
message which was relayed to us at 22000 feet by radio, thanks very much ! Some
people are saying why are we doing it - we're asking ourselves that all the time
! Hundreds of people are now on the emailing list and receiving these updates
and the number is growing all the time. The website has had a 500% increase in
hits in the last 3 weeks and we've been doing live radio interviews to Scotland,
Northern Ireland and the World Service. Everybody here knows about us, the Brit
team (with the South African on board) who are pushing to be one of the first on
a summit attempt!
a word of thanks and very justly deserved. Our equipment, provided by The North
Face and Rab, is proving excellent and the satellite communication equipment
from Ships Electronic Services is fantastic. Comms at Base Camp is being run by
Noel Bristow and Amanda Fry, and they are both quite invaluable to the
expedition. Once we go to the top, it will be Noel and Amanda back here with
their forecasts and sanity who will guide us on - letting us know how many hours
of oxygen we have left and so on.
Northern Ireland the staff of the New Millennium Company are in our thoughts -
it IS time to make a difference and we're trying !! - and especially Brian Reid
who is running our website and managing the emailing list ( you're a star and I
do owe you and Rachel a holiday !), and lastly but absolutely not leastly? Greg
at the 7 Summits office who is dealing with all the correspondence, emails,
background logistics (and looking after my dog ! ).
everyone here salutes you and thanks you for our commitment - the unsung hero of
our expedition ! We have all decided that we would like to have a picture of you
on the website so everyone can see who's turning the cogs in the background !
Sorry this is such a long message but I hope you've enjoyed the continuing story
of our small adventures on Everest. Our next move is to the summit - weather and
God willing. We'll keep you posted.
Best regards Gavin
- Everest Spring
Current Status: The
snow that has been falling
for the past few days broke
today and the Sherpas on the
Everest 2000 team plan to head
up to Camp II Thursday morning to stock the upper camps for the summit
For dispatches, video updates,
background information, interactive maps and more on
his diary entry for more http://cbc.ca/everest2000/
- New Book ! For
other new books see the end of this news page...
for more Mallory & Irvine info? Get the Book: "The Mystery of
Mallory & Irvine," by Tom Holzel & Audrey Salkeld,
Pimlico/Random House (UK), The Mountaineers (USA) Available
for Dead : My Journey Home from Everest by Beck Weathers, Stephen G. Michaud (Contributor) List Price:
$24.95 Our Price: $17.47 You Save: $7.48 (30%) Availability: Usually ships
within 24 hours.
Salon.com asked if we
would post the following link for You our readers !
for Dead: My Journey Home From Everest" by Beck Weathers: A member of Jon
Krakauer's ill-fated Everest expedition gives his version of the spring '96
mountaintop disaster. Karyn Hunt Content Distribution Editor
- Alan Hinkes reaches
Oktang at Kangchenjunga
Alan Hinkes has
reached Oktang around 4360 meters on Sunday, the 23rd April 2000. When he
arrived here, Oktang was full of spring, flowers in bloom and birds singing
every where; it had a warm climate as well reminding the feel of early summer.
By 1700 hrs of Sunday,
however, weather turned violent, throughout whole night with storm and
lightening that ran till 0600 hrs morning next day: the Monday. Snowfall also
occurred whole night, of about 16 inches and suddenly it was winter in Oktang.
Alan estimates that Base Camp may have about 18 inches of snow.
Alan is making his way
through the Glacier, using the porters he had accompanied with right from
Kathmandu. Alan thinks he will reach his Base camp in about a week time.
Reported by Bikrum
Pandey, Kathmandu / Nepal
- Another Interesting
PROJECT NAME: Real
Mera 6654 Expedition
the Correct link is
all the April 2000 News
all the March 2000 News