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 April 11-20th,1999 Daily Reports

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for a list of all the Daily Reports plus many other stories. If you are new to the site you will want to visit the Site Index... along with the homepage... Please visit EverestNews.com Sponsor page !

Daily News: 4/20/99 Report

Daily News: 4/19/99 Report

  • Everest Spring South Side 99 : News from Enrique Guallart-Furio http://ww2.encis.es/avent/:

Everest base camp, Nepal, 4-16-99

Enrique Guallart has already reached 6.400 meters (20.990 feet) up at  camp II on Everest.  After resting for three days at base camp, he plans to climb directly to camp II tomorrow the 17, to continue working on the Lhotse face and finish establishing camp III, at 7.400 meters. (24.270 feet).

Climate changes that involve the whole planet are probably to blame for the different conditions found on the mountain this year: It has not snowed during the winter, and the mountain is dry. The Lhotse face is like an ice skating rink, but with a slope that varies between 50 and 60 degrees.

The Khumbu ice fall is all broken  up this year, and consequently very dangerous. While a Sherpa was crossing a section of four ladders early today, a wall collapsed, due to the pressure of the ice movements. All the other Sherpas and climbers that where following behind had to go back and wait at base camp until it was repaired.

Enrique Guallart arrived at base camp April 6, after a very long trek of 150 km. (81 miles) from Jiri. On April 9 we celebrated the traditional Puja, the blessing of the Lama to the Sherpas and climbers to wish them luck on this risky adventure. 

On the 11th,  Enrique started to install camp I, after climbing through the Khumbu ice fall, and later climbed on to camp II, also called advanced base camp. 

The sherpas have already carried up all the material and gear, and next week camp III will be established.

According to how the climb is progressing, Enrique plans to be done with the acclimation process and have all high camps ready by April 29, with a summit attempt following on the first days of May.

Obviously, the weather and the ice fall conditions will play a role in the development of this plans. Source: Enrique

Check Enrique's web site for all the details and more: http://ww2.encis.es/avent/

  • Everest South Side Expeditions list is almost complete. EverestNews.com believes all climbers are listed except the OTT climbers list. EverestNews.com e-mailed T&T this weekend on the your questions regarding Heidi Howkins status and the fact that we found three Mexican climbers on their permit that we did not know about. T&T replied on their site with a picture of the three Mexican climbers who are sharing their permit. Their names from are sources in Nepal are Hugo Barroso, Carlos Pereda, and Luis Javier Jouanen. Their web site is:  http://www.telecommex.com/everest_ico. Please let us know if their names are mis-spelled. These are the spellings we received from Nepal.
  • Mike Trueman has also started sending updates to his site: High Adventure Everest 1999 Expedition.
  • In case you missed it: Ed Douglas, his new book Chomolungma Sings the Blues , is not published in the United States ! However, this was one of the reasons for adding Amazon UK to our sponsor list, along with requests from our UK readers of EverestNews.com !

Ed Douglas:
 
The writer, traveler and mountaineer Ed Douglas, 32, has been climbing for seventeen years, starting on the gritstone edges of Derbyshire while still at school. He studied English at Manchester University and in his final year there launched the British rock climbing magazine On The Edge. 
 
After running OTE for three years, he worked in Istanbul on the English language daily the Turkish Times ­ arriving as an Editorial Assistant and leaving after a year as Managing Editor ­ before returning to work as a freelance journalist specializing in adventure, mountain areas and their people, and environmental issues.
 
In the last seven years he has written features and news for The Guardian, The Observer, The Daily Telegraph, The Independent and the Independent on Sunday and a range of national and specialist magazines both in Britain and abroad, including Men's Health, Arena, New Scientist and Focus.
 
In 1993 he launched the international mountaineering journal Mountain Review and ghosted Leo Dickinson's account of his ballooning trip over Everest, published by Jonathan Cape. He has interviewed many well-known adventurers around the world and won the 1994 Outdoor Writer's Guild Award for his profile of top rock climber Ron Fawcett.
 
Currently Associate Editor of Climber magazine and Editor of the Alpine Journal, he is a member of the Alpine Club and Climbers' Club, and continues to climb to a reasonable standard, in 1995 reaching the summit of Shivling, a 21,500ft mountain in India close to the source of the Ganges. Other recent ascents include the North Face of Les Droites in winter and the Gervasutti Pillar on Mont Blanc du Tacul. In 1997 he climbed on La Main de Fatma, the sandstone towers of Mali, on the fringes of the Sahara. In the last year he has traveled to Austria to interview Heinrich Harrer and to New York to interview David Breashears, both for The Guardian. His most recent assignments were traveling in Kazakstan for The Observer and interviewing the Dalai Lama in India for The Guardian.
 
Ed Douglas was awarded a Winston Churchill Memorial Trust Fellowship in 1995 to travel around Everest in Nepal and Tibet and his account of that journey, Chomolungma Sings The Blues, was published in November 1997 by Constable. Widely praised in the national and specialist press, Katherine Whitehorn in The Observer called Douglas "a sparkling writer with a great turn of phrase." In the Literary Review, David Craig described him as a "first-class journalist whose interest in the Himalaya and its people enable him to get in close." His biography of the mountaineer Alison Hargreaves, co-authored with David Rose, will be published by Granta next year.
 
Ed Douglas lives in Sheffield with his wife, Katie, a science journalist, and their two children, Rosa, 4, and Joe, 1.  More on Ed and his new book Chomolungma Sings the Blues Soon !

The Amazon UK page has been added ! You will find some of the books you have been requesting on this page. They will accept your credit card and will ship just about anywhere !

For Ed Douglas' Q&A from readers of EverestNews.com see his page.

Daily News: 4/18/99 Report

  • Everest Spring South Side 99 : EverestNews.com has confirmed that Elsa Carsolio wife of Carlos Carsolio (Mexican climber) is attempting the Summit of Everest this spring. Carlos, of course is one of the greatest climbers in the world, being the fourth climber to reach the Summit of each of the 14 8000 meter peaks, many on difficult routes and seasons. Elsa is a climber on the Asian-Trekking organized Everest Expedition "Caucasus 99". This is a non-guided expedition containing three Georgian climbers, one Azerbaijanian, one Armenian, one Japanese (Ken Noguchi) and Elsa. The Georgian climbers are expected to act as their own expedition (having their own Sherpa support team of seven).  Ken Noguchi (having six support Sherpa) is also expected to act as his own expedition. Elsa is apparently climbing independently with EverestNews.com assumes, BC support from this expedition. One would assume this expedition would "work together somewhat ", with 13 support sherpas from Asian-Trekking for 7 climbers.
  • Everest Spring North Side 99 : EverestNews.com has posted a Everest North Side Expedition list per your requests. However, this list is VERY DRAFT. EverestNews.com has most of the list of climbers and plans on typing them next week with more details.
  • Matt Dickinson book tour should be posted on the lectures page by Sunday night (US). EverestNews.com decided to post the tour list there to give more people a chance to see it. Many new readers of EverestNews.com, as expected, are arriving daily...
  • Everest Spring South Side 99 : Canadian Climber: Bernard Voyer, 1999 Expedition Everest has updated his site, please check Bernard out ! This site is in French and English.
  • EverestNews.com feature books are : Other Side of Everest : Climbing the North Face Through the Killer Storm  by Matt Dickinson Availability: Usually ships within 24 hours. Hardcover - 240 pages 1 Ed edition (May 1999) (See EverestNews.com 4/15/99 report for more information) and Climbing High: A Woman's Account of Surviving the Everest Tragedy  by Lene Gammelgaard  Several new title are out and are listed in our Bookstore !

Daily News: 4/17/99 Report

  • Everest Spring South Side 99 : EverestNews.com has confirmed that American climber Laurie Medina is part of Henry Todd's expedition on the South Side this Spring. Laurie is a very strong US climber, who many believe is on the way up. Keep an eye on Laurie !
  • Everest Spring North Side 99 : News from American guide Jacek Maselko with Patagonia Mountain Agency on the snow conditions: "Well, it looks like there's a lot less snow than the previous years. And that should make for a little bit better... (pause) Well, it's good and bad. The good thing is, is that it will probably make it a little bit better going lower down. However, up above the 8200 to 8400 meter camp, which will be our Camp 3, it makes it a little bit harder to set up camp. There are a lot less places to set up camp, so we'll have a little more difficult time there. But aside from that I think it will make it, actually, a little bit easier getting up on the mountain.", "It's a windy mountain here on this side. But, you know, everything is looking good so far." Check then out for all the details and for real audio, Patagonia Mountain Agency.
  • Everest Spring North Side 99 : EverestNews.com has information on several more expedition which will be added soon, along with a North Side list. 1.) Geneva Everest Expedition Spring 99, : A Swiss/French expedition Stephane Schaffter leader, with 10 climbers plus Sherpa (supported by Asian-Trekking) including climber Steve Haston and Laurence H. Goualt; 2.) International Everest Expedition 99 Spring, which includes first Georgian expedition, this is a huge expedition, we have the details, but this one is complex. More soon; 3.) Indian Everest Millennium Expedition 99 Spring Kangshung Face; 4.) Himalayan Experience Expedition to Mt. Everest 1999 Spring Russell Brice is back with 5 climbers plus himself and a large Sherpa staff (Asian-Trekking again).

Daily News: 4/16/99 Report

  • Everest Spring 99 : EverestNews.com welcomes the Danish climber Michael Strynoe to our EverestNews.com team !

Dispatch (4/16/99) from Michael Strynoe: Michael has spent the last few weeks to carry loads up through the Icefall directly to camp II. This year Michael doesn't feel that he needs camp I. Camp II is established by now and in it is all the equipment and tents needed for Camps III and IV. The route all the way from Camp II to the South Col should also have been fixed with ropes by now. However, due to a heavy storm at 7000m Michael decided to leave for Base Camp instead of riding it out like Thomas and Tina are doing. Compared to last year Michael's says he is doing much better - he has not been sick, and the specially designed white outfit help him not to get toasted by the sun in the Western Cwm. Also, he is still right on schedule in spite of this years condition of the Icefall and a bad left knee. If you can read any Scandinavian language, be sure to check out Michael's site at : http://sporten.tv2.dk/everest.

Daily News: 4/15/99 Report

  • Everest Spring 99 : HKE Jagged Globe: "They rang yesterday for a weather report and everything is fine and on schedule.  They are a couple of weeks away, at least, from a summit attempt. Glad you enjoyed Matt's book!" Cheers Steve Bell

    Web site is http://www.hkexpeds.demon.co.uk/index.html

  • Everest Spring 99 South Side: Climbers are in various levels of preparation for Summit attempts, from the early arrivals climbing to high camps, to the late arrivals climbing in the icefall. If, that is IF, the weather holds, EverestNews.com expects Summit attempts as soon as late April to May 1st. EverestNews.com asked climbers who previously reached the Summit of Everest,  how they felt about "no snow" conditions. The opinions varied, but overall they said, it should make the lower climbing easier, but they were concerned if there is not much snow on the Lhotse face. Ice levels, could make the climbing more difficult up high. Which basically agrees with what we heard from Enrique.
  • EverestNews.com has received several lists of Everest climbers on the expeditions. EverestNews.com plans to have these lists typed in this weekend for You. The climbers lists will give you details on many of these expeditions. As usual, some familiar names show up.
  • Manaslu Spring 99 Expedition: Saxon Himalayan Expedition, North East Ridge, Gotz Weigand leader from Germany. 11 climbers. Veikka Gustafsson & Ed Viesturs are listed as members of this expedition, i.e. sharing their permit.  http://www.veikka.com (one of the former web sites of the week). For a list of permitted Nepal 8000 meter expeditions see our www.everestnews.com/climbers.htm page.
  • EverestNews.com feature book: Other Side of Everest : Climbing the North Face Through the Killer Storm  by Matt Dickinson

    EverestNews.com Review: EverestNews.com received an early advance proof edition. This is an excellent Book. Matt was a member of the HKE expedition (Steve's message above). This book is a must read for Everest fans. EverestNews.com will be interviewing Matt and hopefully taking questions from You, our readers of EverestNews.com. Look for Matt US Book tour listing to be posted on EverestNews.com soon.

    Amazon Review (not EverestNews.com Review , but per your requests) : Everest again, May 1996 again, this time on the Tibetan side, in a tedious, self-obsessed account from filmmaker Dickinson. While Krakauer and company were toiling up the southern, Nepalese side of Everest three years back, Dickinson was part of a commercial climb on the North Face. He was there to film the third attempt of Brian Blessed, the English comedic actor, to reach the top. Dickinson was also there to do a little soul-searching, to make some hard decisions about his wanderlust, which was so difficult on his wife and family (though why he would choose that milieu, when ones attention is best riveted to matters at hand, is a puzzle). Dickinson makes amply clear that he was unhappy, angry, or scared most of the time he spent of the mountain's flank, and he shares his misery generously with his readers. There is none of the time compression and tight focus, none of the dread that pervades most fine writing on difficult climbs. Dickinson likes to whine: about the cold and the wind and the physical punishment; about the difficulties of going to the bathroom, let alone filming, at such an altitude; about the quality of the food and the impatience of the yak drivers and an obtuse Chinese bureaucracy. Dickinson acts as though he had been dropped on the mountain against his will. And when the rogue storm that savaged the climbers on the other side hit, Dickinson was safely in camp. Then, getting his chance to make a summit push, he unilaterally decides to abandon his climbing partner, who has dropped out of sight, with a crass ``summit fever had me body and soul.'' He thumps his chest, the soul-searching long forgotten. If Dickinson's spirit was as sour on the mountain as it is in this book, his partners would be forgiven for wondering which was the greater menace: the cruelty of the high-altitude world or Dickinson's presence in it. Synopsis : This harrowing successor to "Into Thin Air" and "The Climb" provides new perspectives on the devastating storm of 1996 that claimed the lives of eight climbers and rocked the mountaineering world. of photos.

Daily News: 4/14/99 Report

  • Everest Spring 99: Weeks ago (if You were with us), EverestNews.com told you about the 1999 Everest Extreme Expedition (E399).

    Yesterday, guta nascimento went to their news conference in New York.   Along with making some new contacts, she learned that "E399 - Everest Extreme Expedition is a health-science team sponsored by Yale, NASA and others to do telemedicine research. They will be at Base Camp researching the body's adaptation to high altitude and low-oxygen environments. They will be on the South Side and they have permission to go up only to Camp 1 to do the tests." guta

    EverestNews.com is in contact with this expedition and would encourage you to visit their interesting web site at http://everestextreme99.org.

    They are not on the 1999 Spring Everest Nepal Expedition List because they are not attempting the Summit.

  • Everest Spring 99 North Side: Patagonia Mountain Agency which includes the American guide Jacek Maselko and Everest climber Richard Pawlowski (Poland), should reach the North Side BC today. Check their site for real audio from yesterday.
  • Have You checked the Home page in the last day or so ? We know many of You use this news page as your home page, which is probably a good idea. As EverestNews.com continues to grow that may not be practical. But for now, the daily news will continue right here for You...
  • Several more new book titles have been added to the to the Bookstore Page in the last few days. EverestNews.com asks You to support EverestNews.com by supporting our sponsors in your purchases to help keep EverestNews.com free for all readers.

Daily News: 4/13/99 Report

  • The first draft of the 8000 meter expeditions in Nepal is up at: www.everestnews.com/climbers.htm. EverestNews.com will update this list significantly in the next few weeks. You will find some new information on this page...
  • An Alan Hinkes/Alan Hinkes Spring Makalu 99 page has been added to EverestNews.com.
  • Everest Spring 99: Has anyone noticed that Asian-Trekking has more climbers on their teams this year on Everest than anyone else ? EverestNews.com assumes that Asian-Trekking is supporting numerous other expeditions this year. We hope to have the list of Sherpa climbers in the next couple of lists.

NEWSFLASH: 4/12/99 2:05PM US

  • It appears that the expeditions on the South Side of Everest are having problems with power . The details are unclear. But something about a backup power generator to be transported to BC on April 17th.
  • It is unclear if this affects all expeditions or not. You probably have noticed the reports has slowed and the Web sites updates on the other sites have almost stopped.
  • Many of these expeditions are creative and resourceful, so don't be surprised if things work out  faster. We should still receive reports from some expeditions by runners and other methods we  use.
  • Talking about "Other methods": EverestNews.com received a post card from Everest BC from our friend Enrique Guallart-Furio http://ww2.encis.es/avent/.

    Thank You Enrique !

    If You missed them check some of his latest pictures out !

    Everest and the View of Everest and crest of the Nuptse from the Monastery of Thyangboche.

Daily News: 4/12/99 Report

  • K2 1999: Waldemar Niclevicz is the first Brazilian to climb Everest, Vinson (Antarctica's highest mountain), Elbrus (Europe's highest mountain) and Carstensz. He is also the first South-American to climb The Seven Summits. Waldemar has confirmed his K2 expedition for 1999. Waldemar will now acclimatize in Bolivia from May 11th to 20th, then he will head to Italy. On May 30th he will be leaving for Islamabad to resolve the bureaucratic issues. Then he'll go to Skardu and plans to start  trekking on June 4th. He will be accompanied by climbers Abele Blanc (Italy) and Pepe Garcez (Spain). They will try to climb Hidden Peak and Gasherbrum II before K2. Their goal is to arrive at K2 base camp around 10th or 15th of July. Their permission goes until August 31st.
  • Waldemar, along with his friend guta nascimento (who will be at K2 base camp during part of the climb) will be sending EverestNews.com reports from K2 in 1999 ! Waldemar web site is  www.sagarmatha.com.br. Many Thanks to guta nascimento, for her assistance.
  • Everest Spring 99: Bernard Voyer will be one of the several other expeditions sending EverestNews.com reports this year from Everest. Bernard's wife (Nathalie) will be at BC during the climb. His web site details some of his other climbs: Bernard Voyer Everest Expedition.  Bernard Voyer is attempting to complete the Seven Summits. His web site is in French and some parts in English. Bernard has updated his site and states on April 7th. "We are at 5,000 meters, two days away from base camp. Everything is fine, health-wise. No problems with acclimatization. It is snowing, not very warm, and blowing pretty hard around Everest. All is fine with logistics. Once we're at the base camp it will be easier to communicate with Montreal, since we'll be able to set up our solar panels to give us power and recharge our telephones." Check his site for all the details !
  • EverestNews.com feature book: Climbing High: A Woman's Account of Surviving the Everest Tragedy  by Lene Gammelgaard 

Daily News: 4/11/99 Report

  • EverestNews.com has a Everest South Side expedition "list" for You. First, forgive us for who we have forgotten. Please let us know at everestnews2004@adelphia.net if You know of others we have forgotten...
  • Second, this is a "list" is of expeditions as defined by the climbers. Meaning climbers in some cases are sharing permits, BC facilities, and who knows what else. EverestNews.com is basically taking the approach here if "they" call it an expedition, so will "we". Famous climbers often share permits and facilities and call themselves an "expedition" also... (if you want to know who, look closely when we publish the permits and then look at the Expedition list.) No one to our knowledge is attempting a solo attempt this spring on the South Side... EverestNews.com is working with nine of the eleven expeditions (the first nine) listed here in one form or another to bring You news from Everest this year. EverestNews.com was unable to contact Groan Kropp before he left, so EverestNews.com does not have a relationship with his expedition. Hopefully before May 1, 1999, EverestNews.com will have the entire climbers list per expedition including Sherpa climbers.
  • The 1999 Spring Everest Nepal Expedition List.

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