8000 Meter Peaks

Seven Summits

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NEWSFLASH 4/30/99 11:24AM EST

• Everest Spring 99 SOUTH SIDE:  Willie Benegas just called EverestNews.com with the sat phone... Willie, a guide with OTT expeditions,  who is climbing Everest this year for Casey Read and Willie's father.
• Willie tells EverestNews.com, "May 3rd will be the first Summit Day with several climbers attempting"
• Other details: He just came down from Camp 3 and is ready to go !
• They had their first real snow today.
• OTT will break down into three groups, as we reported earlier, with Group One led by Jon Tinker going first.
• Willie is planning on being in the second group with a planned attempt for May 10th.
• The third group led by Mike Smith is planned for May 11th or 12th.
• We asked him about the dangerous ice, " I think it will be OK with the fixed roped, not so dangerous with the fixed ropes. It is all fixed rope.", " What is bad it has been so hot, I am really glad it snowed today",
• Willie asks You to consider giving to Casey and his family and to Cancer research. Please check out the Casey Read/Willie Benegas story.
• Then we lost the phone connection... Second attempt failed...

Daily News: 4/30/99 Report

• Everest Spring 99 South Side: Several climbers are moving up the mountain to Camp 2 with high winds of 50 knots or greater still reported on the Summit... Stay tuned.
• Asian-Trekking, the large Nepal Sherpa Company, role in Everest continues to grow. How large a role? Well let us take a look and see... On the North Side, Asian-Trekking has organized two of their own expeditions this year which include 29 climbers and 23 staff members from Asian, 14 of which are H.A. (climbing ) Sherpas. The expeditions are the International Everest Expedition 99 Spring, and the International Everest Expedition 99 Spring, 2nd Group. (They could be a bit more creative with those names, but so could others...) Asian trekking is supporting the Polish International Everest Expedition Spring 1999 (8 climbers, 5 Asian staff), the Geneva Everest Expedition Spring 99 (10 climbers, 5 Asian staff), the Indian Everest Millennium Expedition 99 Spring Kangshung Face expedition (10 climbers, 6 Asian staff), and the Himalayan Experience Expedition to Mt. Everest 1999 Spring (6 climbers, 8 Asian Staff).

Asian-Trekking North Side 99 Expedition, this year added an - "leader" Gia Tortladze (includes the first official Georgian expedition), and a "deputy leader", American Fred Barth. These are non-guided expeditions with Asian providing different level of "support" to different climbers.

On the South Side: Asian-Trekking organized the South Side 99 Expedition: "Caucasus 99". This "expedition" could be described as three different expeditions. However, all climbers are on the same permit (Asian-Trekking) and will be sharing some facilities, therefore we left them together, but show the breakdown.

a.) The Georgian climbers are expected to act as their own expedition having their own Sherpa support team of seven.

Ang Tshering Sherpa Managing Director of Asian-Trekking, tells EverestNews.com, "We have a Georgian Leader leading both of our expeditions, from North Side and South Side. The one leading the expedition on the North Side with Mr. Barth (American) is Tortladze Gia. The other one leading the expedition on the South Side is Benedict Kashakashvili." Sincerely, Ang Tshering Sherpa Managing Director Asian-Trekking"

This year, such famous climbers as Elsa Carsolio wife of Carlos Carsolio has joined Asian expeditions... as a climber.

Asian is also supporting : the Pokhara Sagarmatha Climbing Campaign: Arbin Timilsina 15 years old climber.

Pokhara Sagarmatha Climbing Campaign: Arbin Timilsina is the 15 years boy who is going to attempt to Summit  Everest this Spring. The three climbing sherpas who will support him during his climbing are Ang Gyalgen Sherpa, sirdar (Three Summits of Everest), Ang Mingma Sherpa (One Summit) and Phurba Sherpa and Pasang Sona Sherpa (cook). All Sherpa work for Asian-Trekking, who is handling this expedition.

• News: On the North Side Asian-Trekking H.A. Sherpas and various member of their expeditions are making significant advance up the mountain with some high camps established. On the South Side, Asian is also making advance with camps established but is anticipated to hold back from the first summit groups with Arbin the " fifteen year old boy". Unclear to the movement of individual members of this team. We are attempting to find out more, but so far EverestNews.com is told everything is fine...
• EverestNews.com have counted at least 19 other expeditions besides Everest, Asian Trekking has organized or is supporting this Spring on 8000 Meter summit attempts, not treks but summit attempts !
• Swedish Mt. Everest Cleaning Expedition, leader Goran Kropp. Some more details from reliable Danish sources...

  Swedish Mt. Everest Cleaning Expedition, leader Goran Kropp: Expedition team members are: Goran Kropp, Renata Chlumska (who has previously climbed Shisha Pangma, the highest a Swedish woman has climbed), Ola Hillberg (who has several Himalayan expeditions behind him), Janne Joneus (a cameraman who is planning to go to the top), Staffan Heimersson (a journalist) and Niclas Lovfelt (is Basecamp manager and responsible for the communications). Our sources in Nepal tells EverestNews.com that Heimersson and Lovfelt are not on the permit and therefore not permitted to climb above base camp.

  Renata or Tina are both attempting to be the first to be the first Swedish woman to ascent to the top of Everest.

  EverestNews.com continues to update the North and South Expeditions pages with details including several updates yesterday.

• EverestNews.com is receiving reports of several summits of 8000 meter peaks this spring. At this point EverestNews.com is  going to attempt to add these "Summits" to the 8000 meter expeditions in Nepal page ... look for updates this weekend.
• EverestNews.com has much more news... Insiders look for an update this evening ...
• Matt Dickinson author of the Other Side of Everest : Climbing the North Face Through the Killer Storm    has agreed to an interview with EverestNews.com and has agreed to take Questions from You, our readers of EverestNews.com ! Submit questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net For previous Q&A's see the site index.
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Daily News: 4/29/99 Report

• BBC with British climber Graham Ratcliffe reporting a few days ago:

  "With the number of climbers going for the same British record now down to three, things are getting a little tense at Base Camp with everyone keeping an eye on what everyone else is doing. "It is competitive - you can feel it, but I hope that doesn’t get in the way," said Graham.

  "I am ready to go for the summit and a lot of the teams are, but it’s entirely up the weather to determine what happens.

  "Everyone is very interested in what everybody else is doing - it certainly looks as if the summit attempts will be early this year, but we are keeping a close eye on the weather and reports are due in soon."

  For the full report check the BBC Site.

• Everest Spring South Side 99 : Canadian Climber: Bernard Voyer, 1999 Expedition Everest has sent in two reports the first from his wife Nathalie, on 4/26/99. reporting that Bernard climbed up to C3 for the last acclimatization phase along with his Sherpa friend Dorjee. On 4/28/99, they report, that his second acclimatization phase is complete. They report everyone at BC is waiting for the weather to turn. A great deal of activity and excitement... People are thinking the first good days will likely be May 1 & 2...   Some expeditions are preparing to leave on the 29th, he is in no hurry ! (Good for him ...) Please see his site for the complete very interesting reports in English and French. Also make sure you see this page http://www.bernard-voyer.com/EveWeather.html

• Several climbers are reporting very dangerous conditions on the Lhotse face, with pure ice. The climbers are having to  hook into the fixed rope at Camp three to go to the bathroom and then ... we won't go into the other details...of that experience. But they describe it as very dangerous.
• It appears the two Swedish expeditions will be leading the way this year with both Tina and Renata attempting to be the first Swedish woman to summit Everest. Renata's link is listed on the EverestNews.com South Side Expedition page. It is interesting reading...
• Congratulations!!! Today, 29th April 1999, the Spanish climber Juanito Oiarzabal have reached the summit of Annapurna (8.091 m.). He is the first Spanish climber to climb all 14 peaks over 8,000 meters. Only five other climbers in the world have reached the "true summits" of all 14 8000 meter peaks. Check: www.barrabes.com for all the details. Source: Marga Nerin from the Barrabes internet magazine www.barrabes.com. Yes they are also the cool little logo in the upper left hand corner of our site. More on www.barrabes.com soon !
• Everest Spring North Side 99 : News from Patagonia Mountain Agency: Climber Ian Beaton describes the plans for the next few day: Best acclimatization for us is probably going to be heading up to Camp Two, which is at seven-eight or 7,800 meters -- I'm not quite sure what that is in feet -- and we're going to spend the night there, really, before descending back down to base camp, probably to hang out for another week or so before we making the final push for the summit. At the moment we've yet to stock, or actually put up Camp Two. There are fixed lines going up the North Ridge up there but it's pretty windy and it's pretty hard to put it in. So I'll probably hang around here for a couple of days, make the push up to Camp Two before descending down to Base Camp. Anyways, cheers. Please check their site for all the details...
• Everest Spring North Side 99:  The North side progress appears mush slower this year vs 1998, when the very strong Russian expedition was present leading the way along with experienced sherpas from Asian-Trekking supporting the India expedition and other expeditions, along with other strong climbers including the Czech team... In 1998 these expeditions actually fixed two sets of ropes in several places... This year the Ukraine team appears to be leading the way with help from others, but Asian-Trekking has its own North Side 99 Expedition which is huge, (and supporting many others). It will be interesting how this all works out... So far it appears things are going much slower... than 98.

Daily News: 4/28/99 Report

• Summits attempts delayed: EverestNews.com reported yesterday from our British sources that the weather might change for the worst, and the summit window might close for 7-8 days weather. We discussed this with some expeditions, this is what we heard from Michael Strynoe's web site manager http://sporten.tv2.dk/everest. "I haven't been talking to Michael for the last few days - he's on the mountain. But I've been in touch with his Base Camp manager Jesper Dam. I'll feed you with what I know.
  
  First of all - the weather forecast is delaying Babu, Thomas & Tina's summit bid. I don't know for how long but Michael was in South Col Tuesday, and is expected back in Base Camp today - I plan on talking to him at about 14.00 CET. Michael said the wind was blowing pretty fiercely up there, but he managed to carry a load (tent, gas, food etc) to South Col. He's going to have to raise the tent on summit day. Michael will spend at least 3-4 days resting before trying for the top. So that puts Michael's summit bid well into May - probably around May 6th or 7th if weather permits.
  
  So the status of Michael is: He is pretty exhausted of course - he's been doing hard work on the mountain since April the 22nd. It took a bit longer than planned to establish camp III because - as you know - Lhotse this year is pure ice. So it wasn't easy at all to carve out a plateau there of 2½m x 1m x 1m. But he's strong compared to last year and he hasn't been sick at all. And now all the camps are set.
  
  I'll see if I can manage to send you another dispatch at about 16.00 CET." Jesper, http://sporten.tv2.dk/everest.
• As always, EverestNews.com attempts to give You the News, sometimes (many times) it is the raw form as we receive it. We don't always understand right away what every word means, i.e., "He's going to have to raise the tent on summit day.", sometimes we do with time, sometimes we never figure it out... But we try not to cut too much, we try to bring you more not less...
• Everest Spring 99: Enrique Guallart-Furio's 4/26/99 dispatch in English, http://ww2.encis.es/avent/ :

Everest Melting

Enrique Guallart Furio, climber of the expedition "Valencia Tierra i Mar " has reached camp III at 7.200 meters (23.000 feet) on the icy slopes of the Lhotse face. Setting of the high camps, coordinated by the famous Sherpa Ang Dorjee, a five times Everest summitter, has gone well and they are already working on camp IV on the South Col at almost 8.000 meters (26.200 feet). Three days ago,  Ang Dorjee astonished his Sherpa friends by climbing with a full load of equipment from camp II to the South Col, up and down in about five hours!

Everest is melting, it is very hot, and the CWM is a raging river confined downwards by the lateral moraines. The Khumbu Icefall sounds with the water falling from above, and there is a constant threat of seracs collapsing.  It is a must to climb, upwards or downwards, in the early morning hours. Two days back, while Enrique was climbing down from camp II, a block of ice about 20 meters (65 feet) high crashed down 10 meters (33 feet), away from his path. The Icefall is very dangerous this year, but it's the only way up to the high camps. Ang Dorjee Sherpa took the first photos of the upper slopes to check the conditions around the Geneva Spur and upwards. With Enrique's digital camera, Ang Dorjee has provided data on  the conditions of the Spur, the Yellow Band, the South Col, up to the South Summit. The mountain is dry. This may facilitate access in some cases, but it also makes for climbing on mix terrain with crampons screeching  and precarious balance.  If everything go as planned, the summit attempt should take place either the 9, 10, or 11 of May. As always, weather conditions will play a big part. Enrique is feeling very good and he is anxious to climb to the top of Everest, along with his Valencian banner.  Check Enrique's site for more details:  http://ww2.encis.es/avent/

• Everest South Side More !: A reliable source tells EverestNews.com that there was an accident in the icefall, they believe on the 23rd, where some ladders over a crevasse gave way. One Sherpa came away with some minor injuries but was lucky that he was clipped in to the rope... EverestNews.com knows of no other injuries from this accident.
• Cho Oyu Spring 99, News from the American all women expedition to Cho Oyu: "We've gotten word that the GSC isn't working, so we're using a friend's computer instead. Too bad but we sure tried. This should bring everyone up to speed of our progress and we should be able to send one more. First of all everything's going really well and everyone is healthy and strong. We have made good progress on the mountain in beautiful weather. In fact we have one more carry to make before we attempt to reach the summit! Taking a step back, here's what has happened so far...
  
  We left Kathmandu on April 1st. On this first leg of our journey we stopped for 8 hours while a bus part way off the road over a cliff was extracted by a bulldozer that took its time coming all the way from Kathmandu!  The following day we walked over the "Friendship Bridge" into China (Tibet). From there we rode in style in two Chinese Land Rovers, while all of our gear followed in a truck. We spent two nights in Ρyalam (12,500΄) and two nights in Tingri (14,900΄), two Chinese influenced Tibetan villages.  We arrived in Basecamp (16,500΄) on April 6th.  We rested and organized there for three days before hiking to Advanced Basecamp.  Twenty-nine yaks carried or gear up to Advanced Base Camp where we will call home until we are finished with Cho Oyu. Oh, by the way, most folks over here pronounce it ChO YU.
  
  Advance Basecamp is a typical Himalayan climbing scene. There are twelve teams here from ten different countries spread out across a bench of bouldery moraine. We have made friends with many, and there is a great feeling of cooperation on the mountain. The Norwegians have come and gone. They summitted within a week of our arrival. Their three sherpas had fixed 1000 meters of fixed line on the mountain. And then they took off to climb Shishapangma, another Tibetan 8000 m. peak!
  
  After acclimatizing to such a high Basecamp for a few days we were anxious to get to work. Working in two teams of three we installed a Camp 1 at 21,000΄on April 15th. Supy, Kathryn, and Georgie are working as a team and Cara, Caroline, and Liane  are working together.  The way to Camp 1 is an hour and a half across rolling moraine up only 500 ft. Then, we gain 1,500΄straight up loose scree to camp.  Once we supplied camp 1 and had acclimatized to that altitude, we set our sights on Camp 2 (23,000΄).
  
  Kathryn and Georgie reached Camp 2 on the 22nd. Supy, who acclimatized very well from the start, was cold, so she turned back just short of the new camp.  Cara, Caroline, and Liane headed up next on the 23rd. It snowed that night so they got a late start the next day. They climbed above the first icefall, but being short of time, deposited their loads on a flat plateau at 22, 200 feet. You feel like you're really on the mountain above Camp 1. Here you reach the ice and snow and here you can see out into Tibet and over into Nepal.  This year the mountain is very dry. In all the photos of the mountain, there is a lot more snow. Because of a dry winter, this spring there is blue ice and a lot more rock where usually it is snow covered. The way from Camp 1 to Camp 2 has several sections of steep ice intermixed with lower angle snow ridges.  It's beautiful up there!
  
  On the 27th of April, Supy, Kathryn, and Georgie returned to Camp 2 completing the task of stocking Camp 2.  Tomorrow Cara, Caroline, and Liane will carry Camp 3 gear up to Camp 2. Perhaps, they will carry Camp 3 gear even higher if they are feeling strong.   When they complete this task, we will be prepared for our first summit bid!   Until then Supy, Kathryn and Georgie are eating, sleeping, breathing, and socializing.  Cara, Caroline, and Liane should be back down for their rest by May 1st.  Our Sherpa cooks Mingma and Doma are taking great care of us, trying hard to keep us fat.  They are an important part of this closely knit team.  Since Mingma΄s English is quite good we learn daily about Sherpa life and language.  They have made good friends with the other cooks and this group is a constant source of entertainment.
  
  We think about everyone at home and all of the support you've given us. Again, we apologize for the lack of updates, but we were hopeful that our Magellan GSC was getting through.  We will send another update as long as this computer is still here and working. DON'T WORRY if you don't get another update, technology's tricky in these parts!  We are on schedule and everyone's doing well. - " Check their EverestNews.com page here for more information on them.
• Matt Dickinson author of the Other Side of Everest : Climbing the North Face Through the Killer Storm    Availability: Usually ships within 24 hours. Hardcover - 240 pages 1 Ed edition (May 1999) has agreed to an interview with EverestNews.com and has agreed to take Questions from You, our readers of EverestNews.com ! Submit questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net For previous Q&A's see the site index.

Daily News: 4/27/99 Report

• Mexican climbers including Hugo Rodriguez Barroso, who will be attempting to reach the summit of Everest for the second time, Carlos Pereda, and Luis Javier Jouanen are also sharing this permit. Their web site is http://www.telecommex.com/everest_ico

  Michael Strynoe web site is : http://sporten.tv2.dk/everest.

  Tommy Heinrich has left the expedition after an accident in BC.

• Everest Spring South Side 99: EverestNews.com has received information from our British sources that the weather might change today for the worst, and the summit window might close for 7-8 days. This forecast would seem to explain the actions of some teams the last few days. We will attempt to confirm this today with some of the expeditions. Right now, several climbers have descended below BC resting (which would seem to indicate they believe this new forecast), others are still have camp 4 to establish, with the Swedish team and others being really to go as we described a few days ago.
• EverestNews.com 8000 meter expeditions in Nepal is still being updated with several more little details to be added. Please let us know if you know more details: everestnews2004@adelphia.net
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Daily News: 4/26/99 Report

• Spring Makalu 99 : Alan Hinkes Challenge 8000 PROGRESS REPORT Sunday 25 April 1999: Alan Hinkes has sent back his latest report from low Makalu base camp at 4500m: "Despite my plans going slightly off course over the last two weeks, I am finally at Makalu base camp. As I sit in my tent, I have a fantastic view; I can see Lhotse and the south col of Everest very clearly to one side. Towering above me is the south-west face of Makalu. It feels good to be here. I left Kathmandu as planned on Monday 5 April on a twin otter turbo-prop plane heading for Tumlingtar at 950m. My equipment had left Kathmandu a few days earlier by road, with my Nepalese staff Dawa and Pemba and I was due to  meet up with it at Tumlingtar. The airstrip is a dirt strip above the Arun River and as we approached the weather closed in. The pilot decided not to risk landing and diverted to Biratnagar, which is a large town close to the Indian border. The temperatures here were unbearably hot and the Malaria risk very high. I was forced to spend the night there. In the morning, things seemed even worse. The plane developed a navigation system problem and another plane had to be called from Kathmandu. Finally the second plane took off and, with lighter winds than the day before, managed to land at Tumlingtar. It wasn't until Wednesday 7 April that we set off on the twelve day trek to Makalu. I had 40 porters carrying my climbing equipment, tents, food, communications equipment and everything I would need for the next two months.
      
  To start with we walked through lowlands with paddy fields terraced up the hillsides. The nearest road was about three days walk the other side of  Tumlingtar and so we were walking on tracks and pathways between the fields. We pushed on through Kanbari, the 'market' town and a sort of headquarters for the region. The climate here is almost sub-tropical, very humid and hot. We camped for the night just beyond Kanbari.
      
  The next day the route started to head uphill, following the Arun River,  and we went past the spot where I slipped and fell off the path in 1995. A branch was the only thing that had stopped me falling further. Unfortunately it stopped me by skewering my leg and giving me a nasty injury. It proved to be the end of my attempt on Makalu that year.
      
  That night we stopped on an exposed ridge at Chichilla and there was a horrendous thunderstorm. The lightning crashed all around us and gave our tents a thorough testing.
      
  We trekked along the ridge the next day to Num at 1500m, a village with about twenty buildings and a school which was typical of the region; a single story building with a tin roof, mud bricks and a bare earth floor.
      
  By Saturday 10 April I was beginning to feel unwell.  Since leaving Tumlingtar I seemed to have no power or energy, but I didn't believe that there was anything seriously wrong. The higher I climbed the weaker I became. It felt almost as if I was at high altitude already. I suppose I am used to putting myself through suffering on the mountain and I continued to push myself quite hard.
      
  The path took us down again quite steeply, dropping to 650m so that we could cross the Arun river using a rickety suspension bridge. We then had to climb back up to 1490m through a forest and to the village of Seduwa where we camped for the night. All that day I felt shivery and cold despite the heat, suffering stomach cramps and pains.
      
  From this point we started to get higher. On Sunday we walked as far as Tashigoan, at 2200m, the last village that we would be passing through. Beyond Tashigoan the country is uninhabited and wild. We continued up to Kongma at 3500m.
      
  By Tuesday 13 April I couldn't go any further. I was very weak and felt much worse. I had to be helped back down to Tashigoan where I called for an emergency helicopter to come and rescue me. I could not have walked any further, the next part of the descent was too steep and there were no doctors or medicine and nowhere for me to try to recover. I didn't know what I was suffering from. All sorts of possible diseases crossed my mind including Typhoid and Malaria. I was deteriorating quickly and urgently needed medical attention in Kathmandu.
      
  The helicopter whisked me back to hospital in Kathmandu where tests established that I had a virulent parasitic intestinal infection - Giardia and complications such as dehydration. Apparently Giardia can be fatal if left untreated. I have no doubt it was the right decision to get back quickly to Kathmandu. The hospital gave me some strong medication, rehydrated me and ordered complete rest and quiet. I felt very ill for a few days. I also believed at first that this was the end of my expedition. I thought that I might have lost too much time to be able to get back to Makalu before the monsoons close in at the start of June. I need at least five weeks at the mountain to be able to acclimatize and climb. Time was running out.
      
  The promise of a helicopter to take me to as near to base camp as possible spurred my recovery. By cutting out the long trek up to Makalu I could make up some of the lost time. By Friday 16 April I was feeling well enough to start to plan my return. Unfortunately the doctors put me on some new medication that day and I felt a bit rough again for a while. The medication wouldn't allow me to drink beer - how bad could things get? But  I quickly felt better again.
      
  I had hoped to leave Kathmandu on Monday 19 April, but the Prime Minister of Nepal needed the helicopter pilot for his general election campaign!
      
  I was at Kathmandu airport by 6am on Tuesday 20 April and, taking one porter, Pasang, with me to help carry my equipment to base camp, the helicopter took me on the two hour flight to a spot called Yangre Karka at 3500m. The helicopter was quite small and although we went up to about 5000m to look at  Makalu, it could only land at 3500m, about a day's trek away from base camp. Unusually, the helicopter pilot 'parked' his helicopter and got out to stretch his legs. He was hoping to find some of the locally grown sweet potatoes to take back with him, but we hadn't landed near enough to any cultivated areas for him to find any.
      
  The porter who had traveled with me set off for base camp. He had recently been at a high altitude and was already acclimatized and was able to alert my Nepalese staff, Dawa and Pemba of my arrival. I camped for the night where I was. To go suddenly to 3500m is quite dangerous, but in fact I felt fine. For a short time I had a headache which was probably the early signs of mountain sickness, but after a sleep during the afternoon I felt OK.
      
  In the morning I felt good and trekked up the Barun Valley to about 4100m. Again I felt fine and relieved that I was acclimatizing so easily. I camped for the night and then trekked further up the valley to about 4600m. Here I did feel the altitude for a while, but again after a rest and a night's sleep I felt fine.
      
  On Friday 23 April I set off for lower base camp which had been set up at 4950m. I was joined by two porters helping me with my equipment. Half an hour from base camp disaster nearly struck. We needed to cross a fast flowing and very cold stream; the meltwaters from the Makalu glacier. Most of my equipment had been carried to base camp in large waterproof barrels, but everything which I had taken back to Kathmandu with me had been traveling in soft dufflebags. One porter was carrying the bag with my communications equipment, laptop computer and video camera. He slipped at the edge of the stream and he and the bag were totally immersed for a few seconds. The other porter was nearest to him - I had stopped further downstream taking photos - and laughing at his friend, grabbed both the porter and the bag and dragged them to safety. The porter was fine, if rather wet, and they both had a good laugh about it. After checking he was OK, I quickly opened up the bag and took out all of the equipment and spread it out in the sun to dry. I was extremely relieved later to find that everything worked.
      
  We pushed on to lower base camp and arrived by the middle of the day on Friday. My equipment was all waiting for me and my first task was to sort out what I needed to take up to high base camp at 5800m (nearly 19,000 feet). I need to feel well acclimatized at this height before moving up higher so I have settled in for a couple of days. Saturday I spent sorting equipment, taking gentle treks, reading Tom Clancy and Iain Banks books and listening to the World Service.
      
  Today I am doing the same. To get some exercise and help my acclimatisation I went for a three hour cliff scramble on a slanting rock face above lower base camp, up to about 5500m. The view was fantastic.
      
  I returned to lower base camp and started to put together my kerosene heater, checked my emails and enjoyed a good meal and some real coffee. My cooks are looking after me well - I've had porridge for breakfast, tuna and potato pancakes and something resembling pizza - a soggy pastry base topped with cabbage, hot dog sausages, tomatoes and cheese. Today I ate the last of my fresh fruit.
      
  I hope to be ready to move up to high base camp on Monday or Tuesday and after a couple of days there, I should be ready to start climbing Makalu. I have to cross the Makalu glacier to get to high base camp, a six hour climb with avalanche, rock fall and deep crevasse dangers. Part of the glacier is about 50m below where low base camp has been set up and I can hear it creaking and groaning below me. Although I intend to climb on my own, there are three other expeditions at high base camp and I am looking forward to meeting up with climbers from Danish, American and Australian expeditions in the next few days. The weather is good at the moment, mostly clear with some snow falling in the afternoon. I hope it stays that way.
      
  My next report will come from high base camp after I have spent some time  on Makalu." Alan Hinkes Date: Sunday 25 April 1999 Source: Sue Viney
• Updates: Due to the large number of readers between now and June 1st, EverestNews.com will only leave today's new and maybe one other day's news on this page, making it faster to load the pages...for all readers.
• Everest Spring 99:  Asian-Trekking South Side 99 Expedition: "Caucasus 99". This "expedition" could be described as three different expeditions. However, all climbers are on the same permit (Asian-Trekking) and will be sharing some facilities, therefore we left them together, but show the breakdown.

a.) Benedict Kashakavili (Georgian) Leader, Bidzina Gujabidze (Georgian), Afi Gigani (Georgian), Saridan Mursagulov (Arebaijanian), and Lev Sarkisov (Armenian).

The Georgian climbers are expected to act as their own expedition having their own Sherpa support team of seven. Sherpa: Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa (H.A. Climbing Sherpa) , Chewang Dorjee Sherpa  (H.A. Climbing Sherpa), Nawang Tenzing Sherpa (H.A. Climbing Sherpa), Pemba Nuru Sherpa (H.A. Climbing Sherpa), Nuri Sherpa (cook), and Gyalje Sherpa (kitchen boy).

• Lev Sarkisov is one of those very strong climbers few know about in the US that we love to report on. Lev Sarkisov, started to climb in 1962. Hopefully, many of you know from the RISK site, that in former USSR and Russia mountain climbing is a sport with championships and cups. In his 37 years of climbing Lev received all existing champion titles according to our sources. He reached all 7 000 m peaks in former USSR and got the title of Ounce of snow, a very famous title in Russia. In his climbing he always had priority of reaching technically hardest routes. A lot of first ascents and first passing in mountains of Caucasus, Pamir and Tyan-Shan.
  
  Since 1975 until 1991, he was a coach of Caucasus club. All Georgian climbers trying to reach this spring summit from the both sides of Everest was his pupils at one time or another.
  
  Presently Lev is member of Alpindustria club. He is doing high-altitude guiding jobs not just because to keep him self in climbing shape  but also to support his family.
  
  The last few years he climbed Pick of Victory (Pobeda) in Pamir, McKinley and support climbing of Mt. Kazbeck (5047 m) with 5 handicaps young men.
  
  Do to the week economy conditions in Georgia, this is his first attempt to climb a Himalayan mountain. All our prayers are with him and all climbers in this summit.
  
  Lev is an ethnic Armenian from Georgia, who if successful will become the oldest person to summit Everest beating  the record of Spaniard Ramon Blanco who reached the summit when he was 60 years, 160 days old in 1993. Lev, who will be 60 years and 149 days old on May 1. Lev will be climbing with the Georgian expedition (above) led by Benedict Kashakashvili along the normal Southeast Ridge route.
• Everest South Side Expeditions
• Everest North Side Expeditions
• EverestNews.com 8000 meter expeditions in Nepal has several updates and has listed all the expeditions we currently know about. (We hope we have not forgotten anyone.)
• EverestNews.com feature books: World Mountaineering: The World's Great Mountains by the World's Great Mountaineers -- Audrey Salkeld (Editor), Chris Bonington; Hardcover. This is a collector's dream. and The Climb Updated: The Climb; Tragic Ambitions on Everest   by Anatoli Boukreev, G. Weston Dewalt   ( Hardcover - 272 pages (May 1999)  St Martins
• Matt Dickinson author of the  Other Side of Everest : Climbing the North Face Through the Killer Storm     has agreed to an interview with EverestNews.com and has agreed to take Questions from You, our readers of EverestNews.com ! Submit questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net For previous Q&A's see the site index.
• Several more new book titles have been added to the to the Bookstore Page. EverestNews.com asks You to support EverestNews.com by supporting our sponsors in your purchases to help keep EverestNews.com free for all readers.

Daily News: 4/25/99 Report

• Everest Spring 99:

Asian-Trekking North Side 99 Expedition aka, International expedition (organized by Asian Trekking agency) - Everest from North - leader Gia Tortladze The first official Georgian expedition is in the list of participants. This is a huge expedition and is broken down into groups. Source: Asian-Trekking

Daily News: 4/24/99 Report

• Everest Spring 99: In case you missed it... If You have read all of our pages and notes, You probably know that the two Serbs climbers who were going to be on the Henry Todd permit and Pavle Milosevicz from Yugoslavia, who was going to be on the North Side with PMA did not make it to Everest. Our sources tell EverestNews.com there was no word on these climbers at all... they simply did not show.
• Everest Spring North Side 99 : News from Patagonia Mountain Agency:

  Patagonia Mountain Agency from Base Camp, Mt. Everest.  April 23, 1999.

  This morning their trekkers left in a packed Landcruiser with a sick Japanese climber and some other people on their way to Kathmandu. The sickened Japanese climber, is not Masadu (not their Japanese climber), he's from a different expedition. We have asked his name...

  Tadek, Barbara, and Wytek headed up to ABC for two weeks of acclimatization and living away from Basecamp, which has become home for everybody. Also yesterday, Ian and Omar left to go up to ABC for two weeks but Omar was attacked by diarrhea. So he had to come back to recover and he will be going up with them tomorrow. All of us will be leaving with the yaks tomorrow to go up to the Intermediate Camp for one night then on to ABC.

  Talli Leach asked a few questions to Ryszard Pawlowski, the owner and lead guide for Patagonia Mountain Agency.

  Talli: "Okay thanks for that. Second question is what are some general thoughts on this expedition of Everest this year?"

  Ryszard: "Yes, from this side I'm third time and I think this time we have a good chance to climb. Good chance for everybody. I think our team is very good, very experienced. And condition in low parts to 8000 meters is very good because not so many snow. I think there is very little snow. But up to 8300 meters I think conditions will be much worse because not so many snow. And only icy, only rock and I think it will be more difficult to climb last day from last camp to the summit. "

  Talli: "Okay, thank you Ryszard. The third question is when will the summit bid happen do you think? "

  Ryszard: "Yes, normally, in my experience the first occasion to climb summit will be not before 10th of May. Probably our team has a chance to climb, I mean all team, about 20th of May."

  Check them out for all the details and all the Q&A ! , Patagonia Mountain Agency.

• BBC with British climber Graham Ratcliffe reporting:

  "After a week of climbing through the icefall and beyond up to Camps 1 and 2 and higher, Graham Ratcliffe has returned to Base Camp to wait for weather high up on the mountain to clear.

  He’s already well ahead of schedule and has worked very hard to acclimatize early to give him the best chance of reaching the summit ahead of other climbers. Four other people are in with a chance of becoming the first Britons to climb the summit from both the north and south sides - so being ready to go at the earliest possible chance is definitely an advantage. "

  Actually Graham Hoyland has left Everest so we are down to three, with Graham Ratcliffe having a very good chance.

  Check out his complete report and the BBC interesting web site here: BBC with British climber Graham Ratcliffe

• EverestNews.com feature books: World Mountaineering: The World's Great Mountains by the World's Great Mountaineers -- Audrey Salkeld (Editor), Chris Bonington; Hardcover. This is a collector's dream. and The Climb Updated: The Climb; Tragic Ambitions on Everest   by Anatoli Boukreev, G. Weston Dewalt   ( Hardcover - 272 pages (May 1999)  St Martins
• Matt Dickinson author of the  Other Side of Everest : Climbing the North Face Through the Killer Storm    List Price: $23.00 Our Price: $16.10 You Save: $6.90 (30%) Availability: Usually ships within 24 hours. Hardcover - 240 pages 1 Ed edition (May 1999) has agreed to an interview with EverestNews.com and has agreed to take Questions from You, our readers of EverestNews.com ! Submit questions to everestnews2004@adelphia.net For previous Q&A's see the site index.

Daily News: 4/23/99 Report

• Everest South Side Expeditions includes all names of climbers who are permitted to climb Everest this Spring season from the South Side except two who have asked that their names be withheld.
• Everest Spring North Side 99 : News from Patagonia Mountain Agency: 4/22/99: This is Eric Brown reporting for Patagonia Mountain Agency's North Ridge Everest Expedition 1999 calling from Base Camp, Mt. Everest.  Today's date is April 22, 1999. Base camp is alive again now that everyone is back from ABC.  Wytek and Masaru, who are also back from ABC, went up to ABC on April 19. In addition, Ryszard, Pawel, and Barbara, worked their way down to Base Camp from ABC and their trip was demanding, too. Check them out for all the details and for real audio, Patagonia Mountain Agency.
• Everest Spring South Side 99 : Some members of the OTT expedition was reported at Camp 3 yesterday. Suppose some of these climbers might just go for it this weekend rather than coming down to BC and then going back up ? Many climbers are in BC making preparations.
• Spring Makalu 99 : As some of You probably noticed on the expedition list. EverestNews.com was hoping to receive dispatches from Gary Pfisterer (USA) and Ginette Harrison (British) (husband and wife) and their expedition on Makalu this spring. Gary was concerned that the serial port interface would not work with the SAT phone. It appears that to be the case. But Gary has said "If not for this one definitely for Dhaulagiri in the fall.", so we can look forward to following them on that interesting climb. We do expect to receive some reports from Alan Hinkes friends from Makalu.
• Also Brigitte Muir is climbing with Gary and Ginette, so we decided to dial Jon Muir, her famous husband up and see what Jon knew, " Last I heard from Brigitte was 10 days ago.... She was heading up to C 1, then up to C2. She then planned to drop back down to base for a rest. That's all I know! CHEERS!" Jon. His last expedition: http://www.iridium-icetrek.org/index.htm. It appear they are making very fast progress on Makalu as most Nepal expeditions are so far this spring...

Daily News: 4/22/99 Report

• Everest South Side Expeditions list is almost complete.
• Everest North Side Expeditions list is almost complete.
• EverestNews.com 8000 meter expeditions in Nepal has several updates and has listed all the expeditions we currently know about. (We hope we have not forgotten anyone.)
• Shisha Pangma Spring 99 Expeditions (China) has been added.
• Something You can help with ! One of the next steps, on the climbers list and Shisha Pangma would be to add any web sites that would be covering these expeditions. There are a few web sites that might not work with us, but most do. We have some links to add, but if You know of others please e-mail us: everestnews2004@adelphia.net .
• Editorial Comments/Summary South Side: We say Editorial because we are "speculating some" as readers on the discussion forum like to say. The weather for the most part has been great this year on Everest with very mild conditions. If (that is IF) the weather holds,  EverestNews.com expects a few teams to attempt the Summit at the end of April to May 1st as first reported earlier on EverestNews.com, as soon as April 26-27th. We would expect Babu to lead, with Trueman, Graham and OTT hanging back to the second group. We would expect OTT to break into three summit teams, because of the large size of their group and Jon Tinker long experience as an Everest Guide. One of these three groups could attempt the summit of the first day. But look for Jon to be careful. We expect HKE to attempt the summit with the first group or a day or so after (see below) the first group. We expect that Trueman will consider going with the first group, because of his E96 and E97 experiences. However, we expect him to wait and go with Tinker. The Sherpa climbers led by Babu and assisted by members of various team are fixing almost the entire route as we understand it. (Some Sherpa climbers might obtain two summits this year.) This is to help climbers from the potential of falling off the mountain. However, large amounts of fixed ropes also slow climbers. Therefore, it will be interesting to see how this all works out.
• EverestNews.com expects Bernard Voyer to attempt the Summit much later than the first group. Goran's climbers could be in the first group. EverestNews.com has received a report, that the Mexican climbers has descended below BC and could very well be in the first group. The Mexican climbers include Hugo Rodriguez Barroso, who will be attempting to reach the summit of Everest for the second time. The 15 year old Nepal boy is expected to wait until May 12-14th to attempt the summit along with his experienced Sherpa guides from Asian-Trekking. We would be shocked if he was in the first group. No news from the Georgia climbers or the Americans on summit dates. There is our "speculation" as many have requested! Now you have it ! Then you have the great weather and summit fever, and there goes the logical answers. Back to the news ...
• New on the young American climber Joby Ogwyn (who is a member of the HKE team): According to a source close to the expedition on Saturday April 18: Joby was to leave on Monday headed for Camp 3, if possible.  Then, back down to wait for good weather and head up again for a summit attempt if all was well. The last we heard, he was feeling very strong.  No problems with altitude so far. He slept well at Camp I and I think at Camp II. No headaches or cough yet.  He feels like his group has the 4 strongest Sherpa on the mountain. They have combined some resources with Henry Todd's group and he speaks very highly of both Henry  and Steve Bell.  He is really lucky to be this strong and says that the Sherpa are very excited that the weather is good and they feel like the climb is blessed with good luck. He thinks that if the weather is good, they could try for the summit in 7 to 10 days from now. Ladders collapsing in the icefall.
• Joby is 24 years old.  He started climbing when he was 19 when he summited Kilimanjaro. That is where he caught the bug to climb all Seven Summits.   Then he went to Bolivia to a climbing school in 1994 and also to Europe to summit Elbrus.  Then he did Aconcagua the same year.  His last big climb was 4 years ago when he summited Mt McKinley and did a traverse route.  That was his toughest climb by far.  It has taken four years to get his money and training in order to attempt Everest.  Scott Fischer really persuaded Joby as a client in 1996.  But the money just wasn't there for Joby. He loves travel and learning about other cultures and will probably live outside of the US someday.  He has a wonderful job in Shreveport, Louisiana, working as marketing director for a Real Estate management company called Emerald Properties.  They have properties all over the country and Joby is hoping they expand into South America so he can move around more.  His employers have been very generous to give him time off for this chance to pursue a dream he has had all his life.

Daily News: 4/21/99 Report

• Everest Spring North Side 99 : EverestNews.com has posted a Everest North Side Expedition list. Many details has been added to this list...
• For a list of permitted Nepal 8000 meter expeditions see our www.everestnews.com/climbers.htm page, which has been updated.
• If You have been following EverestNews.com, You Know Babu, a climber who has reached the summit of Everest 7 times, plans to sleep at the Summit of Everest for approx. 20 hours.
• Everest Spring South Side 99 : News from OTT: "The news I have is a little old - apparently they have ABC set up and are now putting in Camp 3 in a five day trip from Base. Everyone is happy and generally staying healthy. They seem to be laying low in communication terms. " Regards Andy Broom
• Everest Spring South Side 99 : Canadian Climber: Bernard Voyer, 1999 Expedition Everest reports on 4/19/99:

  I spent two nights at Camp I, at 6080 meters. On Monday (today) I will set up Camp II, at 6450 meters. Conditions are good. I had to cross some crevasses on ladders stretched across from one side to the other. Acclimatization is going very well

  Please check Bernard out ! This site is in French and English.

• Everest Spring 99 : EverestNews.com welcomes the Danish climber Michael Strynoe to our EverestNews.com team : Dispatch 4/30/99 report:  "The Icefall has shifted a great deal at the top portion keeping the Ice Fall Doctor really busy these last couple of days. He and his men have established new part of the route including a vertical 5-ladder section. Last night there has been a tremendous amount of activity up there. At one time we thought a huge gust of wind came down on us. But it proved to be a gigantic collapse of the Icefall - you can almost compare it to the detonation of an explosive charge under a big building! Everything just sinks together. Things are really happening big time up there - I tell you that. You can't help but be impressed - it's quite fantastic, really ! Right now I'm waiting for the right weather forecast. I'm not prone to race up the mountain only to head back after a few days. When I go it'll be to establish camps III and IV in one stroke. I have absolutely no problems with the altitude, but I'm very careful not to wear myself out! For Scandinavian people - check out: http://sporten.tv2.dk/everest", Michael Strynoe
• Everest Spring North Side 99 : News from Patagonia Mountain Agency: Talli Leach reporting for Patagonia Mountain Agency, report from Basecamp. 4/20/99: The weather here has been very sunny, no shortage of wind, and temps ranging from mid-60's during the day to low 30's at night.  Friday morning the yaks arrived to carry all necessary food and gear up to ABC. All left for Intermediate Camp at 5600 meters except for Eric, Masa, Witek, and myself.

  One night was spent at IC, then it was up to ABC at 6400 meters. All arrived safely, but feeling the effects of the altitude. Appetite was not so good and there is very little sleep due to the high winds gusting up to 60 miles an hour. On Sunday Padack, Omar, and Ian ventured back down to BC. They all were feeling good and after a few days resting at BC they will head back up to ABC with the rest of the climbers.

  Today Vasha, Pabel, and Shibishek will make the long journey back to BC. That leaves Ryszard, Jacek, and Pasong to set up the camp on the North Col. We expect to see them back at BC on Tuesday. Check then out for all the details and for real audio, Patagonia Mountain Agency.

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