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April 1-10th,1999 Daily Reports
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Daily News: 4/10/99 Report
Pictures from Enrique Guallart-Furio
The Seven Summits Page has been
updated. Included is Ricardo Torres, the Mexican climber who was the first Latin American
climber to summit Everest.
Several New Books has been added to the Bookstore site as new titles are rolling out after the success of
last year books.
The latest pictures of Graham Ratcliffes Everest expedition have been posted on BBC
Everest Online. The first dispatch of photographs has come back from the mountains
Base Camp and Graham is well on track to start exploring in the Khumbu Icefall very
soon. All his equipment has arrived at camp safely. Check the BBC site for all the details !
Everest Spring 99: North Side News from Patagonia Mountain Agency April 8, 1999. The
team is leaving on 4/9/99 to start their 5-6 day journey to the North Side Base Camp. They
hope to be in Base Camp by the 13th or 14th. Check their site for the all the latest
Alan Hinkes Spring Makalu 99: (Note report
date at end of Story, 4/5/99 Monday): Alan Hinkes Departs for Makalu, His ultimate
Challenge will be the 15th. 8000er
Hinkes departed today for Makalu, taking the flight to Tumlingtar. His caravan crew had
earlier started from Hille, a road head for all Makalu bound Trekkers and Climbers in the
foothills of Eastern Nepal.
Alan plans to climb the remaining 3 Peaks in less than 12
months, after having success on Makalu.
After climbing all the fourteen 8000m peaks, Alan has
planned to climb the 15th 8000er, in his own words, from Nepal side. i.e. Everest
via South East Ridge. Point to note that Alan has already climbed Mt. Everest via North
Ridge back in 1996 from Tibet.
His friends in Kathmandu have given him a warm send off.
bikrum pandey @ himalaya centre, Kathmandu / Nepal, April
Daily News: 4/8/99 Report
Will the record for the oldest climber to reach the Summit of
Everest be broken this year ?
News from Kiyoshi Furuno ! Dear
Tomiyasu ISHIKAWA (Japanese) will attempt from north ridge. He already summit from
south-east ridge in 1994 (57yrs). If successful, he will have reached the summit 2 times
and be the oldest climber in the world to reach the summit of Everest. Birth: 22Nov1936
(62yrs) Regards, Kiyoshi, World Expeditions Consultants, Inc. http://www.everest.co.jp/everest95/nu-ev95.html.
Everest Spring 99: As reported earlier, there
is at least two others climbers, one on the South Side and one on the North Side, that if
they reach the Summit of Everest they would break the record. Now add one more ! and one
that has been there before !
News on climbers from India:
EverestNews.com asked our India Source Dilip Lagu, if there were any plans for an India expedition this
year. If you recall, they were first up last year on the North Side, with very successful
results in 1998. "No climbers on Everest this year, but one of our last year's
Everest climbers has just begun his peace cycle march to Hiroshima via Nepal, Tibet,
China, and Japan. He is expected to reach Hiroshima by 7th August. His name is Abhijit
Burman." Best Regards, Dilip
This is Eric, Talli, and Jacek reporting for PMA from the
heart of Nepal, Kathmandu.
Our adventure continues as we prepare to leave tomorrow,
April 6th, at 6:00 am for Lhasa, Tibet. Jacek thinks our transportation will be a
"small" plane, with engines, he says. From Lhasa we load our trucks and start
our 8 or so day trip to base camp.
All of the climbers have arrived except Masaru Osamura, our
Japanese climber is still missing. We are hoping he will arrive soon. Rysiek, head guide,
met us at the airport yesterday and we loaded the 700lbs of gear onto a bus and drove to
the hotel. We were met at the hotel by an Austrian film crew making a documentary on
Sherpa culture. They needed an expedition arriving as part of their production so we were
the lucky ones... Tune into to Austrian TV next year!
Ian Beaton and Omar Abbosh, the jovial Brits from England,
arrived soon after us. Already here was the Polish contingent, minus one. In the afternoon
we took a small walking tour, got extra visa photos made, and then everyone met for dinner
at New Orleans Cafe (native cuisine, no?) and everyone got to know each other better. We
also met our sherpas, Pasang Sherpa and Pema Sherpa, both 8000 meter veterans.
Today Talli, Pasang, and I spent several hours buying
additional food, medicine, and car batteries (phone and radio power) while Jacek and
Rysiek met with Asian Trekking Company and spent tens of thousands of dollars on chocolate
bars... no just kidding, actually on permits.
Kathmandu is a crazy city, teeming with commercial life and
quite a few westerners. Very dusty and smoggy conditions prevail, you would want to wear a
dust mask if you planned on staying longer. The traffic is crazy, with cars, cows, people,
motorcycles, and bicycles vying for road space. But, we have seen no accidents as of yet,
which we all cannot believe.
I'd write more but time here is money, so much for free
Over and out from Kathmandu. Jacek
Everest Spring 99: Swedish Mt. Everest
Cleaning Expedition, leader Goran Kropp: Expedition
team members are: Goran Kropp, Renata Chlumska, Ola Hillberg, Staffan
Heimersson, Janne Joneus, Niclas Lovfelt plus support Sherpas.
Renata Chlumska, is
Goran Kropp's girlfriend, who is planning an attempt on
the Summit of Everest from the South Side this Spring, as reported earlier by
If successful, Renata Chlumska (first), she would be the
first Swedish woman to ascent to the top of Everest.
Everest Spring 99: Graham Ratcliffe is
sending in reports for the BBC... You might find his Q&A interesting.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/england/everest/qa.shtml He also confirms seven members on Henry
Everest Spring 99: News from Kiyoshi Furuno !
Dear EverestNews.com: "I was guiding Aconcagua during Jan to Feb. In this
Spring, our Nepal trekking has suspended due RNAC strike ! " Re: Everest
99 "Information of Japanese climbers on Everest Spring 1999: Two Japanese
climbers from north ridge (Team of Russell Brice), Kunitsugu Kobayashi (55yrs)
and Kazuhiko Kozuka (39yrs) and one Japanese climber from south-east ridge (Team name
unknown) Ken Noguchi (25yrs)" Regards, Kiyoshi, World Expeditions Consultants,
Kiyoshi, has one of the best climbing web site on the web
period, check it out: http://www.everest.co.jp/everest95/nu-ev95.html. Yes, he is a great
climber himself. On Ken Noguchi, this is the same climber EverestNews.com was following last
Autumn on Everest...
Everest Spring 99: Bernard Voyer will be one
of the several other expeditions sending EverestNews.com reports this year from Everest.
Bernard's wife (Nathalie) will be at BC during the climb. His web site details some of his
other climbs: Bernard Voyer Everest Expedition.
Bernard Voyer is attempting to complete
the Seven Summits. His web site is in French and some parts in
English. See below for his first two dispatches and check his web site for all the details
on Bernard and the dispatches in French.
Everest Spring 99: News from Bernard,
March 26, 1999 : "We've been working to get the bags ready. They
will leave this morning for Jiri, by porter, and from there to Namche Bazar, and then by
yak as far as the base camp. We'll be taking a Twin Otter to Lukla on the morning of March
28 and then setting out on foot for Phakding that same day. Part of our team is already at
the base camp, building the stone shelter we'll be using as a kitchen. " Best
regards, Bernard Voyer
Thursday, April 1, 1999
"As you likely know by now, I have set out for a second
attempt at climbing Everest. This time I will be trying my luck in the spring, for
statistics show that the window of good weather is better at this time of year. We'll see.
My team is very small. Nathalie will be with me, of course, and as she did last time she
will be spending her days handling communications, photos, films and so on. It's so
important that she be nearby to share every moment. My climbing partner is Dorjee Fulelee
Sherpa. We met during my first attempt, when we often climbed together. We have been
corresponding regularly since 1997. I have a great deal of admiration for him. He is a
highly experienced climber, a sensible fellow, a friend. The other members of the team are
the cook and a friend of Dorjee's. There are lots of teams at the base camp, many more
climbers than in 1997. My route remains the same, that is up the Nepalese face with a base
camp and four high-altitude camps. It's reassuring to know most of the route already, but
the unexpected is still the greatest danger. Once again, many companies are supporting me.
I thank you all. Every expedition calls for enormous precision and meticulous preparation.
Everything counts, right down to the smallest detail. It may be light, but it all adds up
to 200 kilos of essential equipment! It is as though all of you, sponsors, suppliers and
partners, have each contributed a section of rope; together, all these bits of rope will
form one long one, connecting the base camp to the summit. That summit has never left my
mind since I first saw it. But just reaching the top is not enough. I have to make it
there and then back. I am keeping a spot in my backpack for something intangible: a taste
for life. In a few weeks, far above the clouds, I will be filled with wonder... once
again." Best regards, Bernard Voyer
NEWSFLASH Everest Spring 99:
just received word that Mark Pfetzer (and we assume his friends)
"has not gone yet (the trip was delayed until possibly the Fall because of Mark's
schooling). I will let you know when a date is finalized." Mark has been attempting to become the youngest American to Summit Everest
and was planning (along with some of his friends) to be members of Henry Todd's Everest
Spring 99 permit, sharing his BC facilities but climbing independently.)
In May 1996, Lene Gammelgaard became the first
Scandinavian woman to reach the peak of Mount Everest. The next day she made history again
by surviving the mountain's deadliest disaster. The catastrophic blizzard that killed
eight climbers, including Gammelgaard's friend and expedition leader Scott Fischer,
spurred controversy over the commercialization of Everest, and has been exhaustively
chronicled in accounts such as Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air.
Fortunately, Climbing High offers an original,
insightful view of the tragedy and steers clear of the need to explain what went wrong:
cannot expect anyone to help you ... up there. Your fate is in your own hands, your own
two feet." Gammelgaard kept journals throughout the expedition, and her account
stays true to this form: short, intense, and subjective entries on the pressures of
financing the climb, the fierce physical and psychological challenges women face in
extreme sports, and the tricky cluster of personalities that can make or break a summit
bid. Yes, there are gripping moments, such as the desperate night she and seven others
spent exposed in the storm above 20,000 feet, but Gammelgaard is at her best when
providing insights into what drives people to risk--and sometimes lose--their lives.
is presently attempting to add all these New
titles to the Bookstore Page...
Daily News: 4/4/99 Report
Happy Easter from the Staff at EverestNews.com
Daily News: 4/3/99 Report
Everest Spring 99: News from Mike Trueman: Off for the hills - Henry flew in
yesterday, and I attended the briefing at the Ministry in the afternoon. We have a very
strong team - everyone has been over 8000m. Our two Serb team members have been unable to
leave Yugoslavia - a slightly bizarre consequence of what is happening there.
I have been out in the hills training, but we have
had some pre climb meetings with John Tinker, Nick Kekus, Michael Jorgensen, and Iigvars
Pauls. I also met up with Andreas Delgado.
I am taking some trekking clients in with me
- and I am looking forward to a relaxing walk in. I am due to arrive at Base Camp
on April 12th. I will have updates of my progress on the mountain, on my High
My best wishes, Mike
will let You know when we have
some more news from Mike or he updates his site... This is his third attempt on Everest
after giving up his attempt to assist in 96 with the rescue, and taking over Mal Duff
expedition in 97 when Mal died. His first real chance at the summit. He is sharing Henry's
Everest Spring 99: News (4/1/99) from our friend Enrique
Guallart-Furio: Namche Bazar, Tengboche Monastery. This is been one of the best day for
Enrique. As soon as one leaves Namche Bazar, one is faced with the spectacular view of Ama
Dablam to the right of the valley, and straight in front, Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse. The
trail is comfortable, and falls 200 meters (630 ft.) down to the Imja Khola river. A
little while later, we arrive to Lusiyasa, where the river is crossed, and a steep climb
of 500 meters (1650 ft.) brings you up to Tengboche Monastery. Surrounded by the sound of
trumpets, prayers, and the yaks bells, you rest here in this Monastery located in a
beautiful place, which, in itself, has an extraordinary feeling of holiness. In the
context of the Buddhist religion, the Tengboche Monastery is considered as one of its most
important places. See pictures on 4/2/99 News.
Everest Spring 99: See the Camps and topo pictures in the
table on the right border. Source: http://ww2.encis.es/avent/ with a little modifications.
Risk reports: Here is the
final list of the (Russian) Himalayan expeditions for the spring season of 1999
year. 1.) The United Ukraine team - Everest from South - leader - Gorbenko Mstislav,
2.) Moscow team - Cho Oyu by classical route from the North - leader Abramov Alexander,
3.) International expedition (organized by Zelenograd mountaineering club) - Everest from
the North by the North ridge - leader Skripko Viacheslav (Russia) and Dimitrov Borislav
(Bulgaria), 4.) International expedition (organized by Asian Trekking agency) - Everest
from South - leader Beno Kashakashvili. Among the participants - climbers from Georgia,
Armenia, and Azerbaidzhan, 5.) International expedition (organized by Asian Trekking
agency) - Everest from North - leader Gia Tortladze The first official Georgian expedition
is in the list of participants. Source: Risk
Check Risk for
details on these expeditions, and note the number of climbers on the
Asian-Trekking/Georgia North Side expedition. The Deputy leader is American Fred Barth,
who we have reported on earlier...
Yes, EverestNews.com has heard the reports in Nepal stating Babu
Sherpa, who has reached the summit of Everest seven times and who plans on sleeping
at the summit for 20hours this year) will attempt the summit April 26th. EverestNews.com
not contacted TNT nor Babu about these reports in that it seems very early to set a summit
date. As the climbers move up the mountain, we will ask more ! (Much More !)
Everest Spring 99: EverestNews.com
is very happy to announce
Patagonia Mountain Agency has joined our team, and will be sending reports from Everest
North Side this Spring ! Patagonia Mountain Agency, features American guide Jacek Maselko
and Polish guide Ryszard Pawlowski. More from them soon !
will try soon to give You a summary of all
Everest expeditions who will be reporting in to EverestNews.com this Spring.
Everest Spring 99: News (3/31/99) from our friend Enrique Guallart-Furio: Acclimatization day in the outskirts of
Namche Bazar. Today is dedicated to adapting our bodies to the altitude: Going up high in
the morning and sleeping low at night. Enrique feels already well acclimatized, but he
prefers to continue the process to keep his good conditions. The excursion brought us up
to Kumjung, enjoying the spectacular views of Ama Dablam and in the background, Everest
and Lhotse. Afterwards, Enrique got up to the hospital in Chinned to get familiar with the
health care progress in the area. This small hospital is managed by voluntary doctors
coming from Canada and New Zealand and represents the only medical assistance for the
Sherpas in the whole valley, with the exception of the hospital in Perch at 4200 meters,
(13.770 ft), which is used only in emergencies. See picture below.
Henry Todd has received his Everest Spring 99 Permit. Our
sources in Nepal tell EverestNews.com that 7 climbers (which seems low, we will try to
confirm the 7. But real quick, Graham Ratcliffe, Mike Trueman and 5 climbers from HKE is
7. Both Graham and Mike are climbing independently) are on his Everest permit. More Soon
However, Speaking of climbers on Henry's permit: Graham
Ratcliffe had a birthday yesterday, he was 44. Happy birthday Graham ! Graham is
attempting to be become the first UK climber to summit both the North and South Sides of
Everest. Graham's reports can be seen on the BBC web site. EverestNews.com
working with the BBC web site also.
will be changing servers and hosts soon.
Hopefully, you will never know, in reality the site will be on multiple servers for a
period of time to handle the peak demand. The staff is going to attempt to update the site
at Night (US time), therefore if you see the current day update You know you got it. If
you have problems e-mail us at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Some of you will probably need to clear your HISTORY at some point. If you receive a 401
message, clear your history and try again.
Everest Spring 99: News from Belgian
Pascal Debrouwer: (Note this is a rush posting as we have several people requesting
information on this expedition containing members from around the world. We will clean it
up later today...) "We are just back from acclimatization trek this 31st
March. Joao will send you the report of this great adventure ! I've just
a little problem with my knee (fall of a stone on it), but it will be ok soon, I
hope. Our team : Leader Pascal Debrouwer (Belgian) , Member Joao Garcia (Portugal)
Organizer , Member Alain Hubert (Belgian) 5th try on Everest, recently first man to cross
completely South Pole; Member Luc Fontyn (Belgian) his goal, In complete autonomy from ABC
to summit; Member Jean- Marc Monterisi (Belgian) ; Member Vincent Protopopoff
(French) his goal, Try by Hornbein couloir; Member Paulo Coelho (Brazilian) Everest 98 and
Everest 97 ; Member Helena Coelho (Brazilian) wife of Paulo, Everest 98 and
Everest 97; Alain's friend Tamang Man Ram Nepalese High altitude porter and helper; friend
of Alain Hubert, Cook Lakpa Nepalese Same than Everest 98; Cook Tenzing Nepalese From
There are no group already made, everybody can climb and try the summit alone. Important :
Paulo and Helena are completely independent in altitude. I'll send you information
as often as possible. Don't hesitate to ask me more, until we're still in Kathmandu (to
the 4th evening but it takes time to receive mails)." Best wishes , Pascal