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August 21-31th,1999 Daily Reports
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Daily News: 8/31/99 Report
Autumn Everest 99
South Side: Getting caught up on reports.
8/24/99 REPORT: THE DEPARTURE FROM
MADRID'S DECKS OF THE EXPEDITION AUG 24 THE 9 EXPEDITION MEMBERS LEFT HEADING FOR VIENNA
WITH A HEAVY AND BULKY LUGGAGE. TWO WEEKS AGO THEY SENT 22 BARRELS WITH 600 KILOS,
WHICH HAVE ARRIVED IN NEPAL THE APPROX. WEIGHT OF THE STUFF SENT TO NEPAL IS 1 TON.
8/26/98 REPORT: ARRIVAL IN KATHMANDU THE 9 EXP.
MEMBERS HAVE ARRIVED, TODAY AUG 26, IN KTM, DESPITE HAVING TO STAY THE PREVIOUS DAY IN
VIENNA, WHERE THEY MADE THE BEST OF IT BY VISITING THE CITY THE LAST PART OF THE MONSOON
WELCOMED OUR MOUNTAINEERS, WHO WERE RECEIVED BY TSHERING, THE SIRDAR OF THE EXPEDITION.
TSHERING WELCOMED THEM WITH RED AND YELLOW FLOWER NECKLACES, AS IT IS TRADITIONAL IN THE
EVENING, AFTER DISCUSSING ORGANIZATIONAL MATTERS WITH TSHERING, WE RECEIVED THE VISIT OF
E. H., OFFICIAL RECORD KEEP OF THE HIMALAYAS, WHO REGISTERED CAREFULLY THE EXPEDITION'S
DATA.
IT IS CURIOUS TO NOT THAT AT THE MOMENT THE
ONLY EXPEDITIONS ATTEMPTING EVEREST THIS SEASON ARE OURS AND A BASQUE ONE FROM THE NORTH.
IT SEEM THAT THE ROOF OF THE WORLD IS GOING TO BE ALL SPANISH, IN THIS END OF THE
MILLENIUM.
AUG 28,1999 REPORT
WE ARE STUCK IN KATHMANDU UNTIL NEXT TUE
(8/31/99) , WHEN IN THE MORNING, IF THE WEATHER ALLOWS IT (THE MONSOON HAVE BEEN VERY
STRONG AND THERE WILL BE MORE) WE WILL GO BY PLANE TO LUKLA (FROM THE AIRPORT) IT SEEMS
THAT OUR FIRST GROUP HAS ARRIVED TO CII AND HAD TO START WORKING (WILL SEE IF IT IS TRUE)
HERE WE ARE BUYING FUEL, FIXED LINES, ICE SCREWS, PICETS, PITONS, (1 rupia nepalν vale
2,3 pts). SINCE NANDOTTI HAS GOT AN (AUTOMATIC) UMBRELLA FOR 160 Rs (1 Rs = 2,3 PTS).
TOMORROW WE WILL KEEP DOING STUFF. HERE IT'S 12:15 A.M. AND THERE 8:30 P.M. AND I GO
TO BED. Kathmandu, a 28 de agosto de 1999 Isidoro
The EXPEDICIΣN
CASTELLANO LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999 Expediciσn
Samuel Rubio
http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/ is the only expedition on the south
side of Everest this year. They take on Everest by themselves as a team with only 5 Sherpa
climbers. They must also maintain the icefall.
Our friends at Barrabes has the News:
http://www.barrabes.com/publicidad/evnewshome.asp on a Manaslu Expedition. Check them out.
Autumn Everest 99
South Side: Everest 99
South Side: Everest 99
South Side:
EverestNews.com has received new messages and
pictures form the EXPEDICIΣN CASTELLANO LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999
Expediciσn
Samuel Rubio http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/ .
As we understand it, they are in Kathmandu
awaiting an airplane to take them to Lukla. They appear to say that "our first group
already has arrived at the CII and have had to begin to work."
They also state that they meet with Miss
Elizabeth Hawley, who "obtained with meticulousness the data concerning this
expedition. The one is peculiar stating that at the moment the two only expeditions
anticipated for this postmonsoon to the Everest are ours by the Nepal slope and a Basque
by the slope of Tibet."
Appearing to confirm what EverestNews.com
earlier reported, that there are only expeditions presently going to Everest. One from the
North and one from the South.
We hope to have those full messages and
pictures for you on Tuesday.
The plane banked towards Kathmandu, cutting low
across the jagged ridge lines and into the valley bottom. The monsoon had pushed its
heavy, grey clouds against the peaks, which tore them into strips, like strings of cheese
hanging from a grater. Descending through the final clouds, the city suddenly revealed
itself. To the East, temples stood above the city. Flooded rice paddies stretched to the
West. Directly below us the red brick buildings were piled one against the other.
We landed during a break in the rain. The
monsoon is growing tired, but is expected to stay hovered over Kathmandu for at least
another week. This is keeping the tourists away, leaving the streets in their most raw and
puddled state. The narrow alley ways and twisted streets are not as frenzied as when the
international trekkers are here. It is kind of nice to share the city with only a handful
of expeditions, most of which are headed for Cho Oyu.
PB Thapa, my old friend, was at the airport to
greet me with a garland of flowers. Keeping with tradition, he placed the flowers around
my neck and bowed as he greeted me with a "Namaste."
I first met PB in 1989 and have been working
with him ever since. He is a very spiritual person whose warmth and affection have earned
him friends all around the world. In fact he just returned from a two month trip in the
United States. PB's company organizes expeditions and treks in the Himalayas, including
trips to the south side of Mt. Everest. He will be organizing our October trip to Ama
Dablam.
Climbing in Tibet, however, requires us to use
the expert services of Asian Trekking, the only authorized permitted for the North side of
Everest, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. Within hours of arriving we had met our cook, who will
be our only Sherpa support. Ram, (pronounced ROM), our cook, has climbed Cho Oyu before
and has been on dozens of expeditions. He has even climbed to the South Col of Everest. I
hope he cooks as well as he climbs.
Brad, Ram and I are now engrossed in the
details of expedition organizing. In the next day and a half, we need to finish packing
our personal and group gear, purchase 50 days worth of food and fuel, and obtain visas
from the Chinese government. The gear will be loaded into large, blue, plastic barrels and
secured with a lock. These waterproof drums will keep our gear from being destroyed by
both the journey across Tibet in trucks and by the team of 7 yaks which will carry
everything from base camp to advanced base camp. Believe it or not, Tibetan yaks have a
reputation for being unruly and aggressive, unlike their moderately docile Nepalese
relatives.
Some quick highlights of the prep phase have
been the making of flags for our partners: Elkridge Elementary School, The Park School and
Teamworks Training and Development. We are having these flags embroidered with their logos
and plan to fly them from the summit. Kamsu, my favorite Buddhist monk, has blessed prayer
flags for us to hang in advanced base camp. And we've had dinner with some of the other
expedition leaders who are heading to Cho Oyu this year. It was a great opportunity to
build relationships which will prove to be crucial later on the mountain.
We are planning to leave Kathmandu on the
morning of the 28th. This early season departure will put us from 4 to 12 days ahead of
the other Cho Oyu teams. While it will be nice to be in front, it sure would be helpful to
have their strong legs and backs clearing the road that crosses into Tibet. We are
expecting the four day journey by trucks and jeeps to be a muddy, messy ride.
It is a journey we can't wait to begin.
I will be sending another dispatch tomorrow:
prepping the world for the trip to BC, during which I will be unable to send any emails.
Perhaps I'll be able to attach a photo at that time.
Autumn Cho
Oyu/Shishapangma Double expedition: two Americans climbers, Chris Warner and Brad
Johnson attempting difficult routes. Their press release is below (their press agents
words). Note Chris is attempting Everest in 2000. Cho
Oyu/Shishapangma Double expedition: two Americans climbers, Chris Warner and Brad
Johnson attempting difficult routes. Their press release is below (their press agents
words). Note Chris is attempting Everest in 2000. Cho
Oyu/Shishapangma Double expedition: two Americans climbers, Chris Warner and Brad
Johnson attempting difficult routes. Their press release is below (their press agents
words). Note Chris is attempting Everest in 2000.
GROUNDBREAKING NEW PROGRAM ALLOWS
SCHOOL STUDENTS TO BECOME "VIRTUAL PARTICIPANTS" IN INTERNATIONAL MOUNTAIN
CLIMBING EXPEDITIONS -- Earth Treks' Climbing Center Creates Shared Summits Program
As Part Of Major Educational Initiative --
-- Earth Treks' President Chris
Warner To Climb Mt. Everest In May 2000
-- Earth Treks, the East Coast's
premier climbing organization, today announced the formation of Shared Summits, a
philanthropic program allowing school students to become "virtual" participants
in mountain climbing expeditions to the world's highest peaks. Utilizing the
Internet along with state-of-the-art digital technology, Shared Summits will allow 1st
through 12th grade students to experience the world of mountaineering and will expose them
to the environments which surround the most majestic sites on the planet. Throughout the
1999-2000 school year, Earth Treks' president, Chris Warner, will communicate with Shared
Summits' students during a formidable series of climbs in Tibet, Nepal, and Ecuador --
culminating with a May 2000 summit attempt on Mount Everest.
Shared Summits was developed by Earth
Treks as part of an ongoing commitment to provide school age children with meaningful and
unique educational opportunities. Scheduled to begin in September, this
one-of-a-kind program will integrate the experiences of Earth Treks' mountaineering
expeditions with the curricula of participating schools. By logging on to Earth Treks'
web-site each week, classes will learn about the culture, geography, and lore of the
various regions in which the expeditions are climbing and will be able to have specific
questions answered by Chris Warner and his team via e-mail. Also, by actively
following the expeditions' progress, students will gain a true appreciation for the value
of teamwork, trust, perseverance, and goal achievement -- qualities that are developed
through mountain climbing. "International mountain climbing is an endeavor that
has always been reserved for adults who possess a solid foundation in the arts of rock and
ice climbing as well as mountaineering," commented Chris Warner. "I am so
thrilled that by harnessing the power of the Internet and digital technology, Earth Treks
will be able to communicate with children from the most inspiring sites on the planet and
in doing so, provide them with a truly unique and memorable learning experience. In
addition to the academic benefits of Shared Summits, students will feel as if they were
actually participating in the climbs -- Earth Treks' successes will be their own
successes."
The Shared Summits climbing itinerary
consists of five highly diverse treks, each one introducing students to a different
culture as well as a new set of climbing challenges. During the Fall semester,
Warner and a partner will attempt Cho Oyu and Shishapangma in Tibet (two of only
fourteen 8,000+ meter peaks in the world). Also in the Fall, Warner will participate
in an expedition to Ama Dablam in Nepal, largely regarded as one of the most beautiful
mountains in the world. In the winter, Warner will lead an expedition to Ecuador,
South America, and in May 2000, he will make his first summit attempt to the "roof of
the world," Mount Everest. Howard County-based Elkridge Elementary School will be the
first school to partner with Earth Treks, linking the Shared Summits program with the
third-grade class' "Investigating the World" unit. While Warner and his
team climb in Nepal, for example, the students will simultaneously learn how Nepal's
culture is related to its geography and economic demands. Each week the students will go
to Earth Treks' Shared Summits web site where they will have an opportunity to ask Warner
questions about Nepal and will be able to obtain written feedback as well as digital
imagery from the locale. In November, when Warner returns for one month, he will
speak to the students at Elkridge, answering questions about the first series of climbs
and preparing them for those to follow. Currently in discussions with a host of public and
private schools along the Baltimore-Washington corridor, Earth Treks aims to partner with
at least three educational institutions by the middle of the Fall semester.
"The Elkridge Elementary School
emblem will be sewn onto the flag that I plant on the summit of Mt. Everest,"
affirmed Warner. "Elkridge students, and for that matter the students of all
Shared Summits schools, will be represented at the top of the world." During
this, the inaugural year of Shared Summits, Earth Treks will partner primarily with
schools based in the Baltimore-Washington region. However, through the Internet,
Earth Treks will not be limited by geographic concerns as the program grows. Warner
ads, "I am only worried about how we will sew so many school emblems onto one
flag."
Formed in 1992 by world-class
mountaineering expert Chris Warner, Earth Treks began as the mid-Atlantic region's first
professional mountaineering guide service. Since that time, Earth Treks has grown to
be one of the Nation's foremost professional guide services, leading clients on
international mountaineering expeditions to the world's most incredible climbing areas
(e.g. North and South America, Europe, Nepal, India). The only guide service in the
mid-Atlantic region to earn an accreditation from the American Mountain Guides
Association, Earth Treks will lead over ten mountaineering expeditions on three continents
during the 1999-2000 climbing season.
Built on a foundation of 17 years
guiding experience, Columbia, MD-based Earth Treks' Climbing Center (ETCC) teaches over
9,000 people to climb each year. ETCC's staff of fully certified, top-ranked
climbers specializes in both rock and ice climbing instruction and leads a continuous
series of instructional programs both at their indoor climbing facility and at the most
beautiful and challenging outdoor rock climbing sites throughout the region. Since first
opening its doors in January 1997, ETCC has rapidly become the East Coast's premier indoor
rock gym, offering 44-foot high walls and 14,500 sq. ft. of varied climbing terrain to
beginner and expert climbers in the Baltimore/Washington area. People can visit
Earth Treks' web site at www.earthtreksclimbing.com.
EverestNews.com will receive e-mail
messages and pictures from Chris and Brad from these expeditions.
Lhotse Spring 1999:
Czech expedition Lhotse Spring 99: Please
find following short summary of our expedition. Zdenek Hruby
Zdenek Hruby (male 43, summits: Cho Oyu,
Hidden Peak, Gasherbrum II, Everest) Summit Lhotse 5/13/99.
Josef Moravek (male 37), Summit Lhotse 5/13/99
Ludek Ondrej (male 43), reached 7700m
Sona Vomackova (female 27, summit: Makalu), Summit Lhotse
5/12/99
Sherpas: Lhakpa,
Summit Lhotse 5/12/99
Arita
Non-climbing members: Stanislav Berkovec
(male 43, reporter)
Zdenek Vocasek (male 37, doctor)
The original idea of the expedition was to
make double of Everest and Lhotse without huge support and without oxygen. Unfortunately,
we did not collect enough money for this project. As a result, we decided for Lhotse only
- without oxygen, of course.
We arrived to BC 4/20/99.
Start for climb in Khumbu icefall 4/22/99.
This day, Arita, Hruby, Lhakpa, Moravek, Simunek, Vomackova established CI 6100m on the
lower part of West Cwm. (Climbing team did not use CI as a camp during expedition, the
tent has been used as deposit.) The same day, Hruby continued and established the first
tent of CII 6400m.
4/25/99: Arita, Hruby, Lhakpa, Moravek,
Simunek, Vomackova complemented and supplied CII (used as ABC).
4/27/99: Hruby, Moravek, Simunek established
CIII 7400m, West wall of Lhotse.
5/5/99: Moravek, Simunek, Vomackova
complemented and supplied CIII. Arita and Lhakpa deposited load in CIV. Completed climbing
team in CII. Decided not establish any fixed ropes in the upper part of the route and to
climb free above CIV.
5/8/99: Hruby and Moravek started from CII
for the first summit attempt. In CIII weather changed, wind, snow. Couple returned to CII
in the night.
5/10/99: Still windy, but better forecast
for 12 and 13/05. Lhakpa, Simunek, Vomackova started from CII for the second summit
attempt.
5/11/99: Lhakpa, Simunek, Vomackova reached
and established CIV 8100m, just below west couloir of Lhotse. The dead body of Russian
climber Abashkirov nearby doesn’t create pleasant feeling. Hruby and Moravek follow
to CIII.
5/12/99: Lhakpa, Simunek, Vomackova summit
at 2 pm approximately, after some 9 hours of climbing from CIV. There are not very
favorable conditions in the wall. As characteristic for the whole season, there isn’t
very much snow, not any firm snow. Some deep snow, broken and falling rocks, some rests of
old broken fixed ropes. Hruby and Moravek replaced summit climbers in CIV, Lhakpa,
Simunek, Vomackova descended to CIII.
5/13/99: Hruby and Moravek summit at 11.30
am approximately, packed in CIV and descended to CIII. In CIII, weather changed
considerably - wind, snow. Decided to continue to CII, reached evenings.
5/14/99: Bad weather, the whole team descend
from CII to BC. Tents in CIII and CII destroyed because of wind.
All members are OK, no any serious health
problems. I would like to mention Mrs. Sona Vomackova particularly. Two high summits for
her in last two years - carrying equal loads as the male members, without
oxygen.
The numerous porters and 5 Sherpa climbers are with them. At
this point, they are still expected to be the only expedition on the South Side in 1999.
However, with Everest one never knows who might decide to go late.
If you missed it, see Graham Hoyland Article
on
THE
FINDING OF GEORGE MALLORY in the 8/20 News. in the 8/20 News.
in the 8/20 News.
Our friends at Barrabes has News on Jordi
Tosas attempting to snowboard down the central gully of Lhotse
http://www.barrabes.com/publicidad/evnewshome.asp and much more. Check them out.
As the Autumn Expedition Season begins with
expeditions arriving in Nepal, we wanted to re-cap what EverestNews.com plans on Features.
1.) EverestNews.com expects to cover Autumn
Everest South Side with reports from the EXPEDICIΣN CASTELLANO
LEONESA AL EVEREST 1999 Expediciσn
Samuel Rubio
http://server3.servicios.retecal.es/everest99/
As these climbers attempt to tackle Everest in the Autumn
possibly by themselves.
Adventure Consultants
has a team of 10 lead by Jim Litch and assisted by Andy Lapkis of the USA,
Ang Dorje Sherpa of Nepal and Dean Staples of NZ.
3.) A Cho Oyu/Shishapangma Double expedition featuring two
Americans climbers, Chris Warner and Brad Johnson, as they attempt two
very difficult routes on these mountains alpine style with a two man team above
ABC.
Much more on these expeditions and our usual coverage soon.
News from Khoo Swee Chiow: Swee
Chiow reached the Summit of Everest in Spring 1998.
I was just looking at the 7 summits list and wondering...How
many have done North Pole, South Pole & Everest ? Do you know ? I know at 2 persons -
Erling Karge & David Hempleman. I would be glad if you have the complete list for this
one. Thanks. Cheers.
Swee Chiow
Swee Chiow brings up an interesting point that we have added
to our To Do List. Anyone else know of others? Submit to web@everestnews2004.com
The National Federation of the Blind (NFB) has announced that it will
sponsor Erik Weihenmayer’s climb of Everest in 2001. Weihenmayer, a 30-year old
former teacher from Denver, will be part of a team which will conduct an environmental
clean-up of one of the high camps. Additionally, Erik will attempt to become the first
blind person to step onto the top of the world.
Weihenmayer is no stranger to daunting challenges. In 1987, at age 18, he
became the first blind man to trek the 60-mile Inca Trail into Machu Picchu (Peru); in
1988, he represented Connecticut in the National Freestyle Wrestling Championships; in
1995, he reached his first Continental Summit, Mt. McKinley (20,320’) in Alaska, and
later that year became one of two blind solo skydivers; in 1996, he scaled Yosemite’s
famous 3300’ rock face, The Nose of El Capitan; in 1997, he summited Kilimanjaro, the
Roof of Africa, where he was married at 13,000’ on the Shira Plateau; in 1998, he
biked tandem with his father from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City (1200 miles) and ran his first
New York Marathon; and last January, he climbed Aconcagua (22,834’, Argentina), the
highest peak in South America and the highest peak in the world outside of Asia.
Weihenmayer’s road to Everest begins this October with a 100-mile
Himalayan run at high elevation in northern India, an event sponsored by World
T.E.A.M.
Sports (WTS) of Charlotte NC. WTS is a visionary non-profit group which works to bridge
and build communities through sports, which provides greater access in sports for all
people, especially those with disabilities. The second day of the run takes him 20 miles
at elevations over 11,000’, with 4 of the world’s 5 highest peaks (Everest,
Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, and Makalu) visible from the route along the India-Nepal border. He
is currently training in Denver.
Immediately following this run, in early November, Weihenmayer will
confront another challenge, this one of a personal nature: major eye surgery,
evisceration, to relieve painful pressure in his right eye caused by glaucoma. He lost his
left eye to glaucoma in 1988. Counting on a quick recovery, Weihenmayer is slated to climb
Ama Dablam (22,500’, Nepal) in Spring 2000. Ama Dablam is visible from Everest and is
touted as the most beautiful peak in the world. This precursor to Everest will further
acclimate Weihenmayer to the Himalayan area.
In April/May 2001, as part of an 8-10 member team, he will attempt Everest
(29,031’) from the South Col in the Kumba region of Nepal, a route given recent
prominence by Into Thin Air. Only 10% of climbers attempting Everest reach the top,
but this expedition includes three climbers who have already stood on top of the world.
The NFB will use these Himalayan climbs to dramatize the capabilities of
blind people, to shatter the public perceptions of their limitations and to inspire
them to even greater accomplishments. Weihenmayer enjoys breaking through perceived
barriers, believing that these public perceptions are often more limiting than blindness
itself. But his message about "daring to fail" and "not letting obstacles
stand in the way of the dreams of our lives" resonates with all people, blind and
sighted.
The National Federation of the Blind, headed by Dr. Marc Maurer, is a
grassroots consumer and civil rights organization headquartered in Baltimore MD. NFB is
the largest membership organization of blind people, with over 700 local chapters in the
U.S. Its powerful voice is heard in State Houses from coast to coast; and from Congress to
the White House. It is considered the most effective advocate for blind people in the
world.
Weihenmayer’s feats have earned him Connecticut’s Most Courageous Athlete
Award, ESPN’s ARETE Award for Courage in Sports, induction into the National
Wrestling Hall of Fame, and the honor of carrying the Olympic Torch through Phoenix. He is
a professional speaker at companies and schools across the country. His own articles
appear frequently in national publications; and he is currently working on an
autobiography.
Our friends at Barrabes has the News:
http://www.barrabes.com/publicidad/evnewshome.asp on a Zambon Expedition to G2, a Cho Oyu
expedition and much more. Check them out.
Daily News: 8/23/99 Report
Autumn Everest 1999: The Spanish
South Side expedition is packing up and moving out...
Our Spring 8000
meter expeditions in Nepal Page is current with all the information EverestNews.com
has. This is not meant to be a complete list, but a summary of the information we have
available. Let us know who we missed: web@everestnews2004.com
Autumn 8000 Meter Expeditions:
Asian-Trekking Supported Autumn Plans:
We are supporting a total of 12 8000 meter expeditions in
Autumn this year - five of those to Cho-Oyu and 4 to Shishapangma, one to Manaslu
(Spanish) and two to Dhaulagiri (Swiss and Mexicans).
Sincerely, Ang Tshering Sherpa Managing Director
Autumn Everest 99: Still only
one Autumn South Side and One North Side expedition we know about to Everest. Look for the
two expeditions to arrive at Katmandu this week.
