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 August 1998 Daily Reports

For Latest News. For earlier reports: See the Site Index for a list of all the Daily Reports plus many other stories. If you are new to the site you will want to visit the Site Index... along with the homepage... Please visit EverestNews.com Sponsor page !

Daily News: 8/31/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com per your requests, is covering Cho Oyu this Autumn ! Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team has agreed to provide updates to EverestNews.com. The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team updates will be posted on the News Page (here) and also on their own page, which you may bookmark.

    Special Report on the International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000

    Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu climb:

    Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu.

    Update 2: 8/31/98

    The IMG / Expedition 8000 team reached Cho Oyu Base Camp (15,500 feet) on the 30th of August. The team got their satellite e mail system set up and reports that everyone is doing well. 

    Jethro Robinson and the six climbers (Demartino, Dittmer, Hamlin, LaRoche, Smith, Smucler) flew to Lhasa (about 11,500') from Kathmandu and spent several days exploring and acclimatizing in this famous city.  Sites visited included the Potola (previously home of the Dali Lama), Johkang Temple (most famous monastery in Lhasa), and the Barkor (the bazaar).  They said they had a great time.  From Lhasa, they drove by jeep to Shigatse (second largest city in Tibet, and home of the Panchen Lama and Tashilumpo monastery--about 12,500').  Then they continued the next day to Tingri (about 14,500').

    The Zhangmu team had a bit rougher trip.  Bob Sloezen and Heather Macdonald and the Sherpa team spent four fun days loading and unloading trucks and struggling across landslides with several thousand pounds of food, fuel, gear, personal duffels, and equipment.

    Heavy rains in Nepal and China this past monsoon season left the road in bad shape.  Just getting from Kathmandu to Kodari (the Nepal border town) required hiring porters to carry gear past landslides, then hiring a new truck on the other side, on four different occasions.  This cost an extra $1000 in porters and trucks...just one of the little unexpected surprises that come with these kind of trips.  From Kodari (6,500'), the road crosses the Friendship Bridge, then climbs steeply to the Chinese border town of Zhangmu (8,500'), where Chinese customs is located.  Between Zhangmu and Nyalam (12,500'), the road ascends along the wall of one of the worlds great gorges, this one carved by the Bhote Kosi River that crosses the Himalaya.  This road is incredible, cut into the rock walls of the gorge in many places, with huge drop offs, and very few guard rails!!  There was another landslide on the way to Nyalam (in the spring season this part of the road is often blocked by huge snow avalanches), then OK beyond.  After two nights in Nyalam, the team continued to Tingri  to meet the rest of the group.

    From Tingri the route climbs gradually across the Broad "Plains of Tingri" a vital grazing area for the many small Tibetan village that dot the plain.  Eventually the rough dirt road reaches the moraine of the Gyabrag Glacier.  Crossing the moraine, the road climbs through outwash plains and crosses several streams (these are frozen in the spring--often blocking the road in early season).  This is the ancient trade route to the Nangpa La--the route to Namche Bazaar and Khumbu (in Nepal).  Base Camp is located on a grassy field at about 15,500 feet.  The various expeditions set up camps around the field, yaks and yak drivers wander around, Chinese and Tibetans hang out in their tents and play cards, and climbers from all over the world meet and talk.  It is quite the scene!

    The current plan is to take four days (re-pack loads for yaks, take day hikes, acclimatize), then start moving up to ABC (18,500' )on about September 4th using yaks to move the gear.  Source : Eric Simonson, IMG

    Update 1: 8/25/98

    Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team is now in Kathmandu, making final preparations for the climb. Simonson reports that this season's team is led by two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald and one time Cho Oyu and three time Everest North Ridge summitter Bob Sloezen. They are scheduled to depart Kathmandu for Tibet on August 25. This will be IMG/Expedition 8000's fifth climb to Cho Oyu, the world’s sixth highest peak (8201M). The previous four trips have all been successful (Spring 95, 96, 97 and Autumn 97), with a total of 38 summiters.

    Joining Heather and Bob is Assistant Guide Jethro Robinson (USA) and climbers Alan Arnette (USA), Michael Demartino (USA), Jason Dittmer (USA), Henry Hamlin (USA), Borge Ousland (Norway), Robert LaRoche (USA), Mark Smith (USA), Tony Smucler (Canada), and non-guided climbers Alex Jaggi (Switzerland) and Keitaro Morooka (Japan).

    Assisting the team are Sherpas Ang Passang (Sirdar), Lakpa Rita, Ang Nima, Norbu, and cooks Passang Nuru and Pemba Tshering.

    Most of the climbers and several of the guides will travel to Lhasa, Tibet by Chinese airplane, where they will take several days to acclimatize. Most of the expedition equipment and Sherpas will go overland via Zhangmu. The team will re-assemble in Tingri, for the last part of the journey to Base Camp. Heavy rains this year in China and Tibet have apparently caused some problems with the roads, so there is some concern that getting to Base Camp is going to be more difficult than usual.

  • Web site of the week is: Alan Hinkes, An ongoing attempt to be the first Briton to climb the worlds fourteen 8000 meter high mountains. He has four to go !
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death, Jim Wickwire, Dorothy Bullitt/Hardcover/Published 1998. The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, and a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna book  pages. 

Daily News: 8/30/98 Report

  • Only Babu Chhiri Sherpa has reached the Summit of Everest more times by the North Side (Four) than Bob Sloezen who has reached the summit of Everest three times from the North Ridge !
  • Final Update from Guy Cotter as he led an expedition for Adventure Consultants to attempt the summit of Muztagh Ata in western China.   Guy Cotter, now back in New Zealand, writes of the tragic accident that claimed the life of team member Kurt Mendenhall, and of the conclusion to the expedition. "On the 29th July we moved to camp 1 again. Alex was feeling the effects of the altitude and couldn't go up the next morning so we waited another day at camp 1, eventually moving to camp 2 on the 31st. Conditions were generally good although an ice crust about 20cm below the snow surface made the going difficult as we kept breaking through into a deep layer of faceted (temperature gradient) crystals which was especially loose. I felt that a large snowfall would make the snowpack unstable due to these layers. A small icefall between camps one and two posed no problems and was fixed with ropes by previous groups. The route was wanded (i.e. bamboo markers with flags attached) and well trodden by the various groups moving up and down the mountain. A crevasse at 5900m had a fixed rope on it but presented little problem to cross. We arrived at camp 2 which we figured was at 6100m at about 1.30pm. The following day we rested but in the evening Alex complained of headache and I assessed him as suffering AMS (acute mountain sickness) so I immediately initiated his descent down to camp 1, departing camp 2 at 6.30pm. We made good time to camp 1 arriving just on nightfall. Alex felt tired but better at the lower altitude and stayed there so I returned to camp 2 arriving at 11.30pm. At 9.00am in the morning (2nd August) we prepared ourselves and in good weather moved up to establish camp 3. We climbed steadily and in three hours arrived at 6500m where we set up camp, hoping to make a summit attempt in the morning.  A large thunderstorm came in overnight depositing about 30cm of new snow and as the storm did not abate until about 6.00am we did not make the attempt that day. The slope we were camped on had the potential for avalanche activity with another major snowfall and we could not stay where we were. We felt that with the cloud build-up we were experiencing that day, there was a high likelihood of more snow so we decided to retreat. We packed up and began the ski descent about 12.15pm. The snow was deep and the sun was making the snow settle quickly. At around 6330m we met 5 members of another group who were moving up to camp 3 from camp 2. We continued skiing down the slope but Kurt began having difficulties with his skis. The snow was sticking to them and he was having difficulty controlling them. At 6250m Kurt stopped and decided to walk down the trail the last 150m to the camp which we could clearly see below us. He suggested that Peter and I carry on to the camp and await him there. The trail was wanded and had been used throughout the season and there was no apparent sign of crevasses anywhere on the slope, no change of angle which would suggest crevassing and had been walked up by 6 people that morning. (the 5 we met at about 6330m and one other following behind) Peter and I continued down the slope on skis and began packing gear at camp 2 (6100m) at about 1.45pm. I watched as Kurt began descending the slope then turned to continue with the packing.  At around 2.00pm I became concerned that Kurt had not arrived at the camp and thought he was in a small area hidden from view 20m above the camp so I walked up the slope to have a look. Once I was able to look at the whole slope I realized Kurt was not on the slope and since no tracks deviated from the trail, I realized he must have fallen into a crevasse. I ran down to the camp and packed up crevasse extraction gear, put skins back on skis, then proceeded up the hill until I came to the crevasse. I saw a ski pole on the surface and a hole about 1m by 1m wide. I walked to within about 1.5m from the hole and yelled out but heard no reply. The hole was dark and I could see nothing inside it. I dug a trench to place an anchor then anchored the rope onto it. Peter arrived at this time and helped me to rig another ski as a back-up anchor. I began to descend into the hole placing the rope over a ski on the lip to stop it caving away but when I got into the crevasse I realized the crevasse was running up the hill and not across it as most crevasses do. I had been standing on the lid of the crevasse when I had yelled down and not known it. The anchor I had set up was also on (or partially on) the lid also and my rope was running down the length of the crevasse roof so I gingerly climbed back out of the crevasse. Peter and I reset the anchors across the slope from the hole then I abseiled into the crevasse again. It was a very deep hole and when inside I could see no sign of Kurt as it was so dark inside. The crevasse roof was quite thin, about 70cm to 1m, and the crevasse was about 50m from end to end. The trail ran right along the full length of the crevasse and Kurt had broken through right in the center. Had the track been 1 or 2 meters to either side it would have missed the crevasse completely. The crevasse was about 3m wide at the top and had shear walls with no bridges inside the crevasse.  Near the end on my rope which I estimate to be 40 - 43 meters into the crevasse I found Kurt. He had died of injuries sustained in the fall. It was not possible to extract him from the crevasse. In a shocked state I climbed out of the crevasse. In 25 years of mountaineering I had never seen anyone actually go into a crevasse further than their armpits before, with or without a rope (apart from crevasse extraction practice sessions). The fact that the trail had been repeatedly used during the season, and indeed by 6 people 1 hour earlier that day, leaves me perplexed by the indiscriminate way in which the mountains take lives. Obviously had we known there was a crevasse in that region we would have avoided it. But it was well hidden, so well so that I had walked uphill of the crevasse and stood on the roof in the belief that it was a horizontal crevasse where it actually ran up the hill. Peter and I packed up the equipment from the mountain that day to Basecamp where we joined Alex and on the 4th moved to Kashgar to initiate formalities. This has been a very difficult time for us and we extend our deepest sympathies to the friends and family of Kurt. Whilst we place maximum emphasis on safety we are in an environment where the outcome of any expedition at the outset is unclear. This is the essence of adventure which on-the-whole provides us with stimulation and a huge appreciation of the power of the environment and nature. Yet there are occasions like this where every effort we make to operate in absolute safety are not enough. The mountains will forever remain hazardous and cannot be controlled by mankind's' influence - for better or worse, this is why we go there. "Source: ADVENTURE CONSULTANTS LIMITED - High Altitude Expeditions: See their web site on our climbers links page

Daily News: 8/29/98 Report

  • Bob Sloezen, (who along with Heather MacDonald is leading the IMG Expedition on Cho Oyu) has reached the summit of Everest three times from the North Ridge. Who else has reached the summit of Everest three or more times from the North Side? Answer on Sunday......submit who you think to everestnews2004@adelphia.net
  • Icelanders to climb Ama Dablam: Árni Edvaldsson, Júlíus Gunnarsson, Símon Halldórsson, Valgardur Sæmundsson and Örvar Atli Thorgeirsson of the Fiskaklettur Rescue Service Team in Hafnarfjördur, Reykjavík, will be setting off from Iceland on September 27th for Kathmandu in Nepal where they will be climbing the beautiful but notoriously steep-sided Ama Dablam mountain which lies some 15km from Mount Everest. First climbed by an expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary in 1961, Ama Dablam is known for its many vertical rock faces, steep ice-slopes and a knife-edge ridge. The Icelandic expedition is being planned and led by Briton Nick Keukus, while Icelanders Sveinn Thór Thorkelsson and Pálmi Másson will be going along as assistants. Source: Ron Klaassen
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death, Jim Wickwire, Dorothy Bullitt/Hardcover/Published 1998. The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, and a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna book  pages. 

Daily News: 8/28/98 Report

  • Everest Autumn 98 Expeditions and Climbers summary !

South Side:

Japanese climbing from South West Face. Believed to be a Solo ascent by Masafuni Todaka

Japanese Everest Team: Ken Noguchi's Team, Noriyuki Muraguchi (High Altitude Camera Man). Noriyuki Muraguchi will accompany Ken Noguchi to the summit. Base Camp Staff: Ms. Kuniko Miyashita Base Camp Supporter, Takeshi Shiba Base Camp Reporter, and Takeshi Kitagawa Cameraman. The High Altitude Sherpas (Asian-Trekking): Dawa Teshi Sherpa ( 6 times Everest summitter) will be H.A. Sirdar, Tamting Sherpa, Pasang Tshering Sherpa, Nawang Tenzi Sherpa, Krishna Bahadur Tamang, Pemba Sherpa (Cook), and Chimi Tshering Sherpa (Kitchen Boy).

Spanish Everest Expedition: The team consists of : Juan Corro Tormo (Expedition Leader), Ricardo Villar Garcia, Javier Garcia, Ramiro Beltron Miravet, and Carlos Pitarch Francisco. High Altitude Sherpas: Pasang Temba Sherpa (H.A.Sirdar), Ang Kami Sherpa (High Altitude Cook), Nurbu Sherpa, Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Gyalzen Sherpa, Dorje Sherpa, and Lhakpa Tamang (Kitchen Boy). This Expedition is also supported by Asian-Trekking.

North Side

Japanese (two climbers) and the Sherpas on their team. Unknown names.

French Team - The Team consists of Jerome Ruby Leader, Andre Rehm, Samuel Beauget, Panuru Sherpa High Altitude Sirdar, Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Ang Pasang Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Gyalzen Sherpa Cook, and Gombu Dorje Lama Kitchen Boy (all Sherpa from Asian-Trekking).

ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998, American climber Craig Robert Calonica, Lakpa Dorjee Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Dawa Tsiri High Altitude Sherpa, Maule Tamang High Altitude Sherpa, and Pinjo Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa (You guess it, all Sherpa from Asian -Trekking).

The Italian Team - consists of Martini Sergio Italian, Simone Moro Italian, Casanova Diego Italian, and I Iman Singh Tamang High Altitude Sherpa/Cook (Asian-Trekking).

Spanish Team - The Team consists of Ms. Majesus Lagorey Spanish, Pasang Rinzee Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Kusang Dorjee, Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, and Dawa Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa. This team is also supported by Asian-Trekking.

  • IMG (International Mountain Guides), owned and operated by Eric Simonson, Phil Ershler, and George Dunn, is one of the oldest high altitude mountaineering guide services in the United States, annually leading several dozen expeditions on the world's seven continents.  Eric Simonson, a veteran of over seventy expeditions around the world, has been organizing and leading Himalayan climbs since 1979.  These include fifteen expeditions to 8000 meter peaks in Nepal and Tibet including six to Everest, and five to Cho Oyu.

    "Expedition 8000" is the organization through which Eric works to send expeditions to challenge the 8,000 meter peaks of the Himalaya.  As one of the founding members of IGO 8000, a group of high altitude expedition outfitters, Eric and his guides provide a top quality trip for members of the Expedition 8000 team. The climbs are professionally led and guided. IMG will be providing EverestNews.com with updates for Cho Oyu this Autumn. Please see their IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu climb page.  For more information on IMG and Expedition 8000, please see their website at www.climbnet.com/img.

Daily News: 8/27/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com per your requests, will post an updated report on Fran and Sergi deaths on Everest this year within the next week. However, the report will be incomplete in that details are still missing. EverestNews.com understands your interest and is concerned by the numerous incorrect reports on this event. The latest www.risk.ru report does contain significant information about these deaths, that should be reviewed in detail.
  • Several people has contacted us saying that their was a report on another web site, stating that there was an Everest Summit this summer. EverestNews.com has no information on any attempts nor summits of Everest this summer. EverestNews.com   contacted the Nepal Mountaineering Section, which reported to us that they have no knowledge of any summits this summer. EverestNews.com believed that there was not any summits this summer nor any attempts.
  • EVEREST OPENS AT IWERKS GIANT SCREEN THEATERS NATIONWIDE: The large-format box-office mega-hit, Everest, is now playing at Iwerks giant screen theaters nationwide.  Everest has generated more than $32.2 million in gross domestic box office receipts, $40.5 million worldwide, within 20 weeks of release, making it the fastest-grossing large-format film.  Everest is currently showing at four Iwerks theaters and will premiere at two additional theaters over the coming months. More to this news soon.
  • Please keep submitting those Web sites of the week to: everestnews2004@adelphia.net . Feel free to give us input on sites you would like to see.
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death, Jim Wickwire, Dorothy Bullitt/Hardcover/Published 1998. The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, and a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna book  pages. 

Daily News: 8/26/98 Report

  • As many of you have noticed, the Special Report on Everest climber, Guy Cotter as he led an expedition for Adventure Consultants to attempt the summit of Muztagh Ata in western China has not been updated for several days (weeks). As many of you guessed, if was because of tragic news. Kurt Mendenhall, a climber from the US, died when he fell into a crevasse on the climb. The report on this tragic accident can be read on the Adventure Consultant web site on our Climber's links page. When EverestNews.com learned this tragic news, we conducted Adventure Consultants and told them we would hold the news until they notified us that the family was notified and they were ready to release the news. They just notified us that this has been done. EverestNews.com would like to extend our deepest sympathies to the friends and family of Kurt Mendenhall.
  • Cho Oyu Autumn 98: Details on two more teams, from Asian-Trekking in this case. Asian's report: a) International Cho-Oyu Expedition '98 departed Kathmandu for Zangmu yesterday. Britta Jokela Marjatta  (supporting trekker) Finnish Female, Tuula Nousiainen Helena (Climber) Finnish Female, Susan Erica (Climber) Australian       Female. Sherpa Staff: Mr. Naga Dorje Sherpa (Tuula's Climbing Sherpa), Mr. Chhong Ringe Sherpa (Tuula's Climbing Sherpa), Mr. Ngima Dorje Sherpa (Susan's Climbing Sherpa), Mr. Mingma Tamang (cook). Asian Trekking has made special arrangement and provided two of the most renowned Climbing Sherpas, who have successfully climbed Cho-Oyu several times, to help Tuula Nousiainen Helena. It is going to be the first attempt of a Finnish Woman to an 8,000 m mountain. We are, therefore, assisting her with extra care. All of us are doing our best to help her achieve the record of being the first Finnish Woman on top of Mt. Cho-Oyu. Source: Asian-Trekking (b) Himalayan Experience Cho-Oyu Expedition 'Autumn 98 - will depart Kathmandu for Zangmu on 1st September.  Mr. Russell Reginald Brice  New Zealander Leader, Mr. Roy C.T. Hughes British Climber, Mr. David Grey Australian Climber, Mr. Douglas Keith Ward Canadian Climber, Mrs. Maureen E. MacLean Canadian Climber, Mr. Peter Barton Smith British Climber, Mr. Larry McGerry British Climber, Mr. Alan Paul Ropp American Climber, Mr. David Cumming British Climber, Ms. Caroline Baird British Climber, Sherpa Staff: Sonam Tashi Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Krishna Bahadur Sunuwar Kitchen Boy, Kul Bahadur Magar Kitchen Boy, Loppsang Temba Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Chuldim Temba Sherpa High Altitude Sirdar, Birbal Tamang Cook, Phurba Tashi Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa. Source: Asian-Trekking
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death, Jim Wickwire, Dorothy Bullitt/Hardcover/Published 1998. 

Daily News: 8/25/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com per your requests, is covering Cho Oyu this Autumn ! Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team, along with others have agreed to give EverestNews.com Updates. The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team updates will be posted on the News Page (here) and also on their own page, which you may bookmark.

Special Report on the International Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000

Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu climb:

Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu.

The IMG/Expedition 8000 Autumn Cho Oyu climb has three guides, eight guided and two non-guided climbers, and six sherpas. They arrive Kathmandu the 22nd, leave for Lhasa on the 25th, arrive BC about the end of Aug/beginning of September. They hope to summit around the end of September, and return to Kathmandu by October 6.

Update: 8/25/98

Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team is now in Kathmandu, making final preparations for the climb. Simonson reports that this season's team is led by two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald and one time Cho Oyu and three time Everest North Ridge summitter Bob Sloezen. They are scheduled to depart Kathmandu for Tibet on August 25. This will be IMG/Expedition 8000's fifth climb to Cho Oyu, the world’s sixth highest peak (8201M). The previous four trips have all been successful (Spring 95, 96, 97 and Autumn 97), with a total of 38 summiters.

Joining Heather and Bob is Assistant Guide Jethro Robinson (USA) and climbers Alan Arnette (USA), Michael Demartino (USA), Jason Dittmer (USA), Henry Hamlin (USA), Borge Ousland (Norway), Robert LaRoche (USA), Mark Smith (USA), Tony Smucler (Canada), and non-guided climbers Alex Jaggi (Switzerland) and Keitaro Morooka (Japan).

Assisting the team are Sherpas Ang Passang (Sirdar), Lakpa Rita, Ang Nima, Norbu, and cooks Passang Nuru and Pemba Tshering.

Most of the climbers and several of the guides will travel to Lhasa, Tibet by Chinese airplane, where they will take several days to acclimatize. Most of the expedition equipment and Sherpas will go overland via Zhangmu. The team will re-assemble in Tingri, for the last part of the journey to Base Camp. Heavy rains this year in China and Tibet have apparently caused some problems with the roads, so there is some concern that getting to Base Camp is going to be more difficult than usual.

  • News from Everest is a little slow, with teams departing in route to BC or setting up at BC.

Daily News: 8/24/98 Report

  • The Web site of the week is: Everest climber Erhard Loretan. http://www.loretan.com/ Erhard once climbed Everest in about a day and one half (around 39 hours). He was the third to have climbed the fourteen 8000 m peaks.
  • Cho Oyu Teams expected on the mountain this Autumn:
  • 1.) Natour Cho-Oyu is a expedition group from Germany, supported by Asian-Trekking. The team consists of: Jurgen Wolter, Peter Lambert, Pavel Dolecek, Neri Dolecek, and Markus Blanchebarbe. There are 2 climbing Sherpas (High Altitude Sherpas), Mingma Sherpa and Kikami Dawa. Cook and Kitchen Boys: Lacchu Basnet, Ram Chandra, and Da Keepa Sherpa.
  • 2.) High Adventure Cho Oyu Expedition 1998: Mike Trueman's expedition which includes Dan Trueman, Andreas Mayer (Austria), and Damian Ryan (Ireland).
  • 3.) Henry Todd, no details known at this point.
  • 4.) The International Mountain Guides Autumn Cho Oyu Expedition has three guides, six climbers, and four sherpas. They arrive Kathmandu the 22nd, leave for Lhasa on the 25th, arrive BC about the end of August/beginning of September. The International Mountain Guides Expedition plans to summit around the end of September, back to Kathmandu by October 6. IMG is sending Bob Sloezen and Heather Macdonald to led the attempt, more details soon on IMG.
  • 5.) Himalayan Experience Cho-Oyu,Russell Brice's Team supported by Asian-Trekking.
  • 6.) Others
  • This Spring several Expeditions attempted Cho Oyu, many of them failing to put even one climber on top. More details on these spring expeditions on the next few days.

Daily News: 8/23/98 Report

  • Everest Autumn 98:
  • As many of you have probably noticed, Asian-Trekking is supporting 4 out of 5 of the Everest Teams on the North Side this Autumn, and both expeditions on the South Side this Autumn ! That is 6 out of 7 expeditions !!! The other South Side expedition is reportedly a true "solo" expedition, therefore cannot have support. Asian-Trekking also is supporting/leading many other expeditions in Nepal and Tibet at the same time, including three of the Expeditions that will be on Cho Oyu this Autumn, during our coverage. It appears Asian-Trekking is becoming a dominating force for the sport in Nepal and Tibet !!!
  • A copy of the Public Eye show on Tom Whittaker can be ordered by calling CBS at 1-800-934-NEWS.  The cost is $32 which includes shipping and handling. Tell them you saw them on EverestNews.com !!!
  • Cho Oyu Autumn Teams on Monday !

Daily News: 8/22/98 Report

  • Everest Autumn 98:

Don't know if everyone noticed the name, Simone Moro, on the Italian Everest Team this Autumn. Yes, this is the Simone Moro, best known here in American for being the climber who survived the avalanche on Annapurna that killed Anatoli Boukreev. Simone, however, is a very well respected climber in his own right ! More on Simone later.

Most teams are arriving in Base camp and are preparing to head up the mountain !

EverestNews.com will be working with Craig Calonica's team www.skiingeverest.com  this Autumn on Everest on the North Side to provide updated news. Craig's "video" team is lead by John Sheridan Reed. Craig and John has very big plans on providing 21 live shows via the Internet with Streaming Video and numerous other specials from Everest !!! Please visit their site for all the details. Craig's attempt will also be carried by the USA today.

Daily News: 8/21/98 Report

  • Everest Autumn 98:

Appa Sherpa was supposed to go to Everest this fall as EverestNews.com previously reported. But since his arrival from USA is delayed, he will not join the teams on the North Side this fall.

Ken Noguchi the Japanese climber on the South Side this Autumn does has an old web site that contains some background information on him when he was attempting the North Side of Everest. .http://mbs.co.jp/news/everest/index_e.sht

  • As a good friend of ours pointed out: After reading the Dhaulagiri updates from Veikka  G. I realized that now, two of France's most famous climbers died in 1998, Chantal Maudit and Eric Escoffier. Sad for France, sad for the climbing world.
  • How good were these climbers? Both had reached the Summit of K2 !!! However, both never realized their dreams of the Summit of Everest. Chantal was the only woman alive to summit K2 without the use of bottled oxygen. She attempted Everest 7 times without the use of bottled oxygen and sadly failed all 7 times.
  • As EverestNews.com posted before, a special fund has been set up for the child (Lhakpa) of Chantal Mauduit and the children of Ang Tshering Sherpa, her Sherpa friend that died with her. The aim of this association is to continue financing the studies of the children and to improve living conditions and education in the villages of these children. Your gifts should be made out  to  "Chantel Mauduit Namaste" and sent to: Association Chantal Mauduit Namaste 56, Street of the Suburb St Antoine 75012 Paris, France

Daily News: 8/20/98 Report

  • Everest Autumn 98 has started ! Today we highlight the South Side teams.
  • To recap: EverestNews.com believes a total of 3 teams will be on the South Side this Autumn. The Japanese has two teams and the Spanish has one. Below are details.
  • One Japanese Team climbing from South West Face.
  • Japanese Everest Team: There are two climbers and one is high altitude camera man. Ken Noguchi and Noriyuki Muraguchi (High Altitude Camera Man). Noriyuki Muraguchi will accompany Ken Noguchi to the summit. Base Camp Staff: Ms. Kuniko Miyashita Base Camp Supporter, Takeshi Shiba Base Camp Reporter, and Takeshi Kitagawa Cameraman. The High Altitude Sherpas (Asian-Trekking): Dawa Teshi Sherpa ( 6 times Everest summitter) will be H.A. Sirdar, Tamting Sherpa, Pasang Tshering Sherpa, Nawang Tenzi Sherpa, Krishna Bahadur Tamang, Pemba Sherpa (Cook), and Chimi Tshering Sherpa (Kitchen Boy).
  • Spanish Everest Expedition: The team consists of : Juan Corro Tormo( Expedition Leader), Ricardo Villar Garcia, Javier Garcia, Ramiro Beltron Miravet, and Carlos Pitarch Francisco. High Altitude Sherpas: Pasang Temba Sherpa (H.A.Sirdar), Ang Kami Sherpa (High Altitude Cook), Nurbu Sherpa, Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Gyalzen Sherpa, Dorje Sherpa, and Lhakpa Tamang (Kitchen Boy). This Expedition is also supported by Asian-Trekking.
  • 98 Autumn Everest Links has been updated again with the most current information.
  • The Web site of the week is: Everest climber Veikka Gustafsson http://www.veikka.com/eng/index.htm. His web site is in Finnish and English. He also has information on this site about when he was part of Everest 96. Note when the report ends. Sorry, we are late in posting this. The staff has been very busy, with K2 ending, Everest beginning, and other items.
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death, Jim Wickwire, Dorothy Bullitt/Hardcover/Published 1998. 

Daily News: 8/19/98 Report

  • Everest Autumn 98 has started !
  • To recap: EverestNews.com now believes a total of 5 teams will be on the North Side this Autumn. The French, American, Japanese, Italian, and Spanish. The Japanese (two climbers) and the Sherpas on their team has arrived on the North Side and has started up the mountain.
  • French Team - leaving Kathmandu on 18th August The Team consists of Jerome Ruby Leader, Andre Rehm, Samuel Beauget, Panuru Sherpa High Altitude Sirdar, Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Ang Pasang Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Gyalzen Sherpa Cook, and Gombu Dorje Lama Kitchen Boy (all Sherpa from Asian-Trekking).
  • American Team -  leaving Kathmandu on 20th August Team consists of Craig Robert Calonica USA, Lakpa Dorjee Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Dawa Tsiri High Altitude Sherpa, Maule Tamang High Altitude Sherpa, and Pinjo Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa (You guess it, all Sherpa from Asian -Trekking).
  • The Italian Team -  leaving Kathmandu 20th August Team consists of Martini Sergio Italian, Simone Moro Italian (will depart Kathmandu on 4th September only), Casanova Diego Italian, and I Iman Singh Tamang High Altitude Sherpa/Cook (Asian-Trekking).
  • Spanish Team - leaving KTM on 20th August The Team consists of Ms. Majesus Lagorey Spanish, Pasang Rinzee Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Kusang Dorjee, Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, and Dawa Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa. This team is also supported by Asian-Trekking.
  • K2 Wrap Up: Today (Monday 18th) Waldemar and Italian climbers worked on bringing down equipment from Camps 1 and 2. They will spend next days also removing the ropes that were fixed. Climbers want to let the mountain as clean as they found it. Just to remember: the team arrived at base camp on June 24th. Their first intention was to climb K2 via Magic Line and ski down by Abruzzi's Spur. Waldemar and Italians were the first climbers to arrive at K2 this season as Irish climbers went first to Broad Peak. Weather has been very bad during all season. Despite it the 7 climbers managed to fix 2,500 meters of ropes over the spur. Three camps have been established (6,000m, 6,700m and 7,450m). At Abruzzi's Spur fixed ropes are indispensable. The route reached difficult level 5 and inclination of 60o. Meanwhile climbers of different nationalities arrived at bc as Spanish, Turkish, Americans, Canadians and Irish. Weather continued bad. In June there were only 4 days of good weather. On July 31st, with a lot of sacrifice, climbers managed to break trail until camp 3 at 7,450m. But bad weather and strong winds made them go back down to base camp. On August 9th, 3 climbers went back to Italy but before that Marco Barmasse skied down from 6,700m becoming the first person to ski on K2. 4 climbers remained on the expedition. On August 13th climbers departed once again to try the summit. For Waldemar it was his 8th attempt. Weather seemed to improve and on August 14th climbers managed to establish Camp 4 at 8,000m. They arrived at 5 p.m. The group was Waldemar from Brazil, Abele, Edmond and Arnaud from Italy, and Pepe from Spain. All climbers seemed to be in good health condition. At 10 p.m. they started preparing themselves to the final attempt but at 11 p.m. they realized sky started to get clouded. At midnight it started snowing and a strong west wind reached the tents. At 7 a.m. a small avalanche fell over their camp forcing climbers to leave the tents. Even with the bad conditions they tried to gain some meters under a heavy snowstorm. The altimeter registered 8,040m when all the mass of snow where climbers were above (drowning until the middle of the body at each step) started sliding mountain down. The group decided to go down immediately. But going down wasn't also easy. Avalanches threatened to come and winds of 100 kilometers/per hour threw climbers into the ground. Fixed ropes saved their lives. source: guta nascimento
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death, Jim Wickwire, Dorothy Bullitt/Hardcover/Published 1998. The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, and a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna book  pages.

K2 NEWSFLASH: 8/18/98

  • All Climbers on K2 are reported down at BC (5,100m) and safe.
  • Waldemar and Italian team are safe down at base camp. It took them 12 hours to climb down from camp 4 (8,000m) till BC (5,100m). Correcting an information sent before, the group reached 8,040m and not 8,050m as reported previously. Waldemar calculates if weather had been "hold" for more 10 hours, climbers could have reached the top of the mountain. But with the high winds and snow they faced it was impossible to go ahead. The group regrets that after two months on the mountain they couldn't reach the top, but everyone is happy to be alive, safe, and to have had the chance to improve their climbing skills reaching 8,040m. They intend to go back next year and with more knowledge of the mountain, conquer their objective.  source: guta nascimento
  • Look for more K2 news sometime today.

Daily News: 8/18/98 Report

  • Everest Autumn 98 has started ! Two Japanese and Sherpas on their team has arrived on the North Side and has started up the mountain.
  • EverestNews.com now believes a total of 5 teams will be on the North Side this fall. The French, American, Japanese, Italian, and Spanish.
  • The Italian Team -  leaving Kathmandu 20th August Team consists of Martini Sergio Italian, Simone Moro Italian (will depart Kathmandu on 4th September only), Casanova Diego Italian, and I Iman Singh Tamang High Altitude Sherpa/Cook (Asian-Trekking).
  • Spanish Team - leaving KTM on 20th August The Team consists of Ms. Majesus Lagorey Spanish, Pasang Rinzee Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Kusang Dorjee, Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, and Dawa Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa. This team is also supported by Asian-Trekking.
  • FYI, EverestNews.com, during these Autumn Everest Expeditions, we will go back to updating the site daily when the News comes vs updating every night.

K2 NEWSFLASH: 8/17/98 1:26PM EST US

  • Waldemar gave up reaching the Summit of K2 this season. After 8,050meters  there were avalanches and the weather was very bad. He descended all the way back to base camp. Next year he will be back. I'm waiting for his e-mail with more details, as soon as I talk to him I'll inform you. Source: guta nascimento
  • No news on the others, hopefully with the next update.

Daily News: 8/17/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com hopes to have news soon on whether or not Waldemar and the three Italians climbers we believe were with him reached the Summit of K2.
  • On Saturday (15th) Waldemar reached camp 4 at 8,050m. He reported that he was feeling a very strong headache. By that time climbers weren't using oxygen bottles. Waldemar reported that at Saturday 10 p.m. they were planning to leave for  the summit attempt. We still don't know how many climbers are up there. On Friday (14th) Waldemar reported that he and Italians Abele, Arnaud and Edmond were already above Camp 3 at an altitude where there were no more fixed ropes and steps. As all of them were extremely tired they alternated and changed place for breaking trail. Now we can only wait. As long as they don't have any computer up there to send reports let's just hope for the best and wait. Source: guta nascimento
  • Broad Peak: A search mission was carried out on the August 14th 1998 for two French Climbers namely Eric Escoffier & Pascale Bessieres who are missing on Broad Peak. Two lama Helicopters specially chartered for this purpose under supervision of Qshraf Aman, first Pakistani to climb K2 and Shah Jehan well know climber. During 6 hours of flying search the entire north-west and south-west face of this mountain no clue about the missing French climbers should be found. Meanwhile two Spanish mountaineers who climbed Broad Peak are of the opinion that the winds bellow taken them up the mountain ridge towards Chinese side i.e. the east Face..... It appears these climbers are lost....very sad news to the climbing community...
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death, Jim Wickwire, Dorothy Bullitt/Hardcover/Published 1998. The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, and a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna book  pages.

Daily News: 8/16/98 Report

  • Waldemar is on the way to the Summit of K2 !!!
  • By the time you read this Waldemar, the great Brazilian climber, should be above Camp 4 (around 8,000 Meters) pushing for the Summit of K2. Other are with him, probably the Italians, but not confirmed who and how many at time point. The weather was mostly clear yesterday but with wind. Some unstable air is still being reported.
  • The Americans are believed to be at Camp 3, but this is not confirmed. There are still believed to be only the 9 climbers (see earlier reports) high on the mountain. Therefore, confirmation on information is going to be difficult. Sometimes you just have to run with it !
  • Broad Peak: Helicopters has been searching Broad Peak, no information on Results. It has been a long time.
  • Keep checking back all day for more information and about the search for the lost climbers of Broad Peak. This update will continue to change and/or be adding to.

Daily News: 8/15/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98: We received two reports today that Jordi Tass was not going to Everest this fall. In checking Craig Calonica's new web site on our 98 Everest Autumn Links Page, he appears to confirm this.
  • Danish Gasherbrum Expedition 98

    EverestNews.com Summary Report

    The Danish Team did not make the summit of the unclimbed Gasherbrum 6, however they were successful in reaching the summit of Gasherbrum 1 (Hidden Peak) 8068 meters. Below is messages to us from Bo upon his return, which we thought you might enjoy. For daily reports on their expeditions see the Danish link in the News Index below.

    We think you will be hearing much more about this very strong Danish climber in the future.

     

    Hello EverestNews.com

    Yes I'm safe back. Apart from 1 degree frostbite in 4 toes (senseless toetips, sense reappears after a month or two - I have tried it before) I'm feeling well and fit. I lost around 5 kg. almost exactly the amount I intentedly put on before going. We reached the summit of Gasherbrum 1 on the July 9. I was there at 9:13 (according to the recordings of my digital videocamera which we used both to make pictures for internet and to make film), Mads Granlien at 9:28 and Jan Mathorne at 9:48. I stayed there in almost perfect weather for 45 minutes. We could se around 200 km. from the summit in the clear weather. We were the first to reach the summit this year and we were in front of 5 other expeditions all the time. We fixed rope some of the way up the Japanese couloir using rope from a Japanese and German expedition. The day before summit attempt we put up our camp 3 at 7000 meters in the afternoon. In the evening we slept around 2 hours before starting to melt water for the summit attempt. At 00:30 we started from the tent. There was a cold wind and minus 18 C. so we saw forward to sunrise. The climbing from camp 3 was sometimes rather steep (50 maybe 55 degrees) but we climbed individually. The final wall up to the summit confused us. We could se two summits and I made tracks up to the one on the left which unfortunately was the lowest of the two. I had to come down to a little col between the two summits from where I could go up a corniced ridge to the real summit. Jan and Mads had been waiting and could therefore go directly to the col and up the ridge. When we left Basecamp on July 16. the only one to do the climb apart from us was a German climber, Dieter Porsche. He made it to the summit the day after us. He started with a friend, Peter ??, from camp 3. Peter had a minor accident. He fell down the S couloir (shaped like an S) and was lucky not to hit the rocks along the sides. He should have fallen 3-400 meters before finally being able to stop himself. Peter came back to camp 3 at 4 in the morning just as we were leaving for Basecamp. Dieter made it to the summit alone.

    When we left Basecamp weather was again unstable as it was most of this season. Some had left the day before for camp 2 but we suppose they turned around due to the unstable weather. The only good period we experienced was the 5 days we were doing our summit push. We were prepared and acclimatized at that time.

    Future Plans

    Yes, it was a really good trip to Gasherbrum. And this time I didn't get tired of being in Pakistan. Probably due to the fact that it was second time there. We all knew what to expect of bureaucracy and lack of women in public etc. We will probably go to Pakistan next time (for K2). But that all depends on another Dane, that probably will attempt again next year on Mt. Everest without oxygen. If he doesn't get to the summit - like this year - we will be on the big hill in year 2000.

    Going to 8400 without oxygen in '96 together with Veikka Gustafsson I'm pretty sure of being able to make it to the summit in just slightly better conditions.

    Greetings, Bo.

    Bo Belvedere Christensen

  • K2 Update: Various reports are coming out of K2, which is always concerning. Some that the weather is good , some that the weather is very bad with high wind. guta nascimento message from this morning: Thursday 7 climbers went up in the lead group. The group is: Waldemar (Brazil), Abele, Arnaud and Edmond (Italy), Pepe, José Antonio and Luis Miguel (Spain). The weather improved although it isn't completely good. Wind is still very strong. Today they intend to sleep at camp 2 (6.700m)..... So it appears we have at least 9 climbers (with the two Americans) on the mountain.

Daily News: 8/14/98 Report

  • The North Side Summit record for Everest was broken this year. EverestNews.com believes there were 80 or more Summits from the North Side this year. We are still waiting on the names and numbers from the Chinese climbers. The summit page is complete except for these Chinese climbers. We believe the main reason for this record was the number of very experienced teams attempting Everest from the North Side and the preparation these teams took. There has never before been this many experienced well prepared teams attempting Everest from the North. Very few of these climbers were clients on expeditions, almost all the climbers that reached the summit were on national teams. The previous record was 67 in 1995.
  • Cho Oyu coverage, per your requests, will begin soon.
  • K2 Update: Summit bids underway again !!! Waldemar has raced up the mountain and is currently at Camp 3 !!! The weather is unstable and the snow is deep. Much like when he reached the Summit of Everest from the North Side, with a climber from another team, named Anatoli Boukreev. We are sure if Waldemar is alone or with other climbers. Some climbers, which we believe are the American are at or near Camp 2. Some climbers have turned around. Information limited at this point. Hope to have more information soon.
  • Broad Peak: No News
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death, Jim Wickwire, Dorothy Bullitt/Hardcover/Published 1998. The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, and a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna book  pages.

K2 NEWSFLASH: 8/13/98 1:09PM EST US

  • Waldemar has raced up the mountain and is currently at Camp 3 !!! The weather is unstable and the snow is deep. Much like when he reached the Summit of Everest from the North Side, with a climber from another team, named Anatoli Boukreev. We are sure if Waldemar is alone or with other climbers. Some climbers, which we believe are the American are at or near Camp 2. Some climbers have turned around. Information limited at this point. Hope to have more information soon.

Daily News: 8/13/98 Report

  • Tom Whittaker successful Everest 98 climb was on the CBS program Public Eye last night. A good program, if you missed it try to watch it on the reruns.
  • K2 Update: Summit bids underway again !!! Today (Wednesday 12th) Waldemar and Italians climbers decided to go up. Weather improved a little bit and they will start an attempt. Climbers expect weather can improve in the next days. If not, they will come down to BC, wait and make another attempt before August 24th (on August 25th   permits expire and they must leave K2). Climbers on K2 are very anxious about weather. On Monday 10th Italian team invited Spanish climbers for dinner. Meanwhile they eat dhal bat (a typical food with rice and lentils) in the Italian tent they realized that some stars started appearing at sky. They immediately became hopeful and decided to go sleep to wake up at 4 a.m and restart climbing. But unfortunately they didn't have to wait at 3 a.m. big and heavy flakes of snow started falling upon the tents and they gave up going up to Camp 1 again. Yesterday (Tuesday 11th) it rained all day. On the day before (Monday 10th) 3 Italian climbers had return for home. Adriano Favre, Marco Barmasse and Alessandro Ollier left K2 at six o'clock in the morning under a thin snow and black clouded sky. (Italian team's doctor, Chiara Dezza, also has gone). It was a busy morning on K2 Base Camp as 55 porters, Irish climbers and some part of Turkish team also departured. Base Camp has been silent for all day. From Italian/Brazilian  team remained the following climbers: Waldemar Niclevicz, Abele Blanca, Arnaud Clavel, Edmond Joyeusaz . 3 Spanish climbers still remain on K2, as well as Heidi's team (3 climbers) source: guta nascimento
  • Broad Peak: Mother nature finally should let the helicopter go in and the climbers go up and then we will know. Believe it or not, hope has not been given up by some.

Daily News: 8/12/98 Report

  • The first group of climbers are leaving for Autumn Everest 98 Today ! The EverestNews.com Autumn 98 Expeditions Page has been updated.
  • Tom Whittaker successful Everest 98 climb will be on CBS program Public Eye tonight. Please check local listing for times. EverestNews.com (along with Jochen) assisted CBS with confirming some facts. Don't know if EverestNews.com will get a credit, as the program was probably written and produced. However, we will be watching !
  • Let have a little fun ! Some visitors have suggested an Everest Web site of the week. Sounds like a good idea to us ! Please submit sites that are not currently links and we will post one of the submissions every Monday. Submit to everestnews2004@adelphia.net . These do NOT need to be English sites ! Do you know that the Singapore expedition also had a Chinese site?
  • Broad Peak/K2: Mother nature is not helping the climbers. Very unstable weather.

Daily News: 8/11/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com has confirmed that Hollywood is going to film Touching the Void starring Tom Cruise as Joe Simpson. Fasten your seat belt !
  • The first group of climbers are leaving for Autumn Everest 98 on Wednesday. The EverestNews.com Autumn 98 Expeditions Page has been updated.
  • Broad Peak: The weather is very bad, the helicopter could not fly again, but hope is still being held out that somehow these climbers are alive. The helicopter will fly as soon as the weather improves.
  • K2 Update: Several climbers are leaving the mountain as Guta reported on the 8th. The weather is very similar to Broad Peak, unstable (bad). The good news is all the climbers got down. Waldemar was on Everest with Eric Escoffier in 91. He is very upset with the news. If the weather breaks, Heidi might benefit from arriving late, and much of the fixing of ropes performed by others teams allowing her to be fresh.
  • If you missed it, Jochen's research papers updates has been posted to EverestNews.com. Check the News index below for details.
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death, Jim Wickwire, Dorothy Bullitt/Hardcover/Published 1998. The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, and a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna book  pages.

Daily News: 8/10/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com Autumn 98: Nepal (South Side), there are going to be three teams making attempts to the Summit from Nepal Side as follows: (1.) One Japanese Team climbing from South West Face. EverestNews.com assumes this is the solo attempt by Masafuni Todaka, that the Japanese told us about earlier, but we are trying to confirm this. (2.) One Japanese Team and One Spanish Team climbing the normal route. These two teams climbing the normal route are being handled by Asian Trekking. The Japanese Team (Normal Route) has 6 climbers including TV team. In addition, the team will have 8 High Altitude Sherpas with them. They will also have Base Camp Kitchen Staff. The team is being led by Ken Noguchi. The team is expected to arrive in Kathmandu on 20th August and is expected to depart Kathmandu for the expedition on 23/24 August. The Spanish Team (Normal Route) has 5 climbers in it.  In addition, the team will have 4/5 High Altitude Sherpas with them. They will also have Base Camp Kitchen Staff. The team is being led by Juan Corro. The team is expected to arrive in Kathmandu on 17th August and is expected to depart Kathmandu for the expedition on 23/24 August.
  • K2 Update: It was reported to EverestNews.com that the one Italian made an attempt to ski down (not from the summit) but we have not confirmed this and have not heard from Guta...I
  • Eric Escoffier Update: The weather was very bad again and the helicopter could not attempt a rescue. No other new information.
  • EverestNews.com feature book is :Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death, Jim Wickwire, Dorothy Bullitt/Hardcover/Published 1998. The bookstore site has an Everest Book page, two Mountaineering book pages, a K2 book page , an ice climbing page, and a Nepal and a Dhaulagiri, Aconcagua, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna book  pages.

Daily News: 8/9/98 Report

  • EverestNews.com Autumn 98: Tibet (North side), basically there are two teams with permits. The French Snowboard Descent and the American Craig Calonica Expedition. Both of these teams links are on our Autumn 98 Everest Links Page. Craig has attempted Everest several times, including last year, but has failed to reach the Summit each time. However, this year he is supported by a very strong Sherpa support team including Appa Sherpa (nine Summits of Everest), who you will recall from Everest Spring South Side 98 and Lakpa Sherpa. Craig also has gained significant Everest experience in the last several years. This team is planning on using the latest in technology. Check out their new web site for details. The French are also expected to send reports from Everest. However, this will be the first 8000 meter peak for these French climbers/snowboarders. They are highly regarded, but have no Everest experience. To our knowledge there are no clients or anyone being guided on the North Side this Autumn. No one has ever snowboarded down Everest !
  • The Canadian Seven Summits Expedition has reportedly reached the summit of Mt. Elbrus. George told us a few months ago he and his team will be back on Everest South Side in 1999.
  • Eric Escoffier: He once reached the summit of Gasherbrum 1 (8068m), Gasherbrum 2 (8035m), and K2 all within the same 3-4 week period !!! He is also one of the best technical climbers in the world. Don't give up hope on this guy yet.

Daily News: 8/8/98 Report

  • First, we would like to thank all those that helped keep Eric's name out of the press per the families request the last several days. EverestNews.com would also like to thank all of you that sent little pieces of information, helped translate messages in different languages, the climbers that always exceed our expectations with their efforts to helps others when in need and the various climbers on K2 that has provided such valuable information. We are still hoping for a happy ending. The weather on Broad Peak and K2 is very bad, and has been very unstable, as you know if you have been following the web sites. Eric and Pascale got caught in this unstable weather up high. We can only hope they have found a way to stay alive until help arrives. Michael Fauquet, an French climber has been working day and night figuring out a way to save his friends. He and his friends arranged for a helicopter on Friday, but the weather was just too bad... EverestNews.com still have not contacted the Spanish or Japanese teams, if anyone has any information on these teams, if would be much appreciated. People at Broad peak BC are working with Michael and the French, the climbers on K2 are passing information on, but the more hands in a time like this the better. Let all pray for the best.. As you read below the helicopter should fly tomorrow morning, the Saturday, 8th of August.
  • EverestNews.com Autumn 98 updates will continue soon. Our Fran and Sergi summary has been delayed due to new information.

NEWSFLASH UPDATE: 8/7/98 4:10 PM EST US

  • Friday, 7th august 1998 We don't have any news from Eric Escoffier and his team mate, Pascale Bessieres. The two mountaineers were trying the ascent of the Broad Peak (8 047m) in Pakistan, by the normal route. At 7 600 m, during the summit attempt, the 28th of July, a member of the group, Jean-François Lassalle, decided to go back. Eric Escoffier and Pascale Bessieres were going for the summit. About 7:00 pm, Jean-François Lassalle saw them installing a bivouac in a snow hole at the col of Broad Peak (7 800 m).  The next day, 29th of July, about 10:30 am, two climbers from Poland on their way to the summit saw them just above the col, on the summit ridge. About 11:30 am, Piotr Putztelnik climbed up to the same place to check where the two French was. According to him, the weather conditions were very cold and windy. Putztelnik could see the summit ridge very well but didn't see Eric and Pascale. So he went down to the Camp 3 where Jean-François Lassalle were waiting. Because of the bad weather conditions, all the climbers left the Camp 3 by the morning of the 30th of July. They left some tents and some food. Since then, neither Eric Escoffier nor Pascale Bessieres came back to the Base Camp and didn't reach any intermediate camp. An helicopter should fly tomorrow morning, the Saturday, 8th of August. Source :Michel Fauquet
  • This summaries most of the information EverestNews.com presently has. Eric Escoffier for those of you that don't know, is unquestionably one of the best climbers in the world. He has proven himself at High Altitude reaching the summit of peaks such as K2 and as a technical climber. One of the very best. Let's all keep up the work. EverestNews.com

Daily News: 8/7/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98 ! Soon !
  • K2 Update:  Today (Thursday 6th) Waldemar arrived back at Base Camp and reported more details about the bad weather they faced yesterday (Wednesday  5th) above 7000m. Climbers had just passed the barrier of 7500m, above Camp 3, when wind - which was already strong - became insupportable. Gusts of wind more than 100 km/hour threw climbers against the snow that already covered then until the knees. suddenly visibility fell down to barely 5 meters. at 3 p.m. dark clouds surrounded the climbers and they started going down (the group was Waldemar from Brazil, Abele, Adriano and Arnaud from Italy and Pepe from Spain). At 7200m they passed near the Turkish team that had improvised a camp at that altitude. Waldemar tried to shout at them to go down but in the middle of the storm they couldn't hear him, or even see him, although the distance between them were less than 3 meters. Today - Thursday - Turkish climbers arrived back down in base camp with frostbitten hands. We still don't know how far is the gravity of it. Waldemar reports that Turkish climbers gave up climbing this season and Irish team is thinking about going back. Some climbers from Italian team are also giving up. Climbers Adriano, Marco and Alessandro must go back to their jobs and will flight back to Italy next 10th.   Remember that Italian and Waldemar's permit goes only until August 25th. Source: guta nascimento

Daily News: 8/6/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98 ! Climbing the North Side of Everest : A French Team has 3 climbers Jerome Ruby, Dede Rhem, and Sam Beaugey. This is the Everest Snowboard Expedition. They plan to Summit and then snowboard down the Hornbein Couloir ! We believe one of them plans on skiing down, but will need to check on that... Their web site (Sport) is listed on EverestNews.com 98 Autumn Everest Expedition Page.
  • K2 Update: Today (Wednesday 5th) Waldemar - who was on the way up to Camp 3 to try to Summit on Friday 7th - had to go down back to Camp 1 because of bad weather: rainstorm and winds of more than 100km/hour (kilometers per hour). He reached Camp 3. Waldemar was trying to leave Camp 3 to Camp 4 (at 8.050m) but wind was so ferocious that he couldn't stay up. Therefore, attempts to Summit won't be done this Friday. Source: guta nascimento.
  • Broad Peak: A Spanish and Japanese team has arrived. If anyone has ANY information on these expeditions please pass it on ASAP to everestnews2004@adelphia.net . Thank You EverestNews.com, See NEWSFLASH below
  • David Lim: David moved out of intensive care early last week and has been breathing on his own since last weekend. The hospital said that as he still needs special care, he is in an isolation room but his doctors say that he is "doing as well as can be expected for a person who is suffering from a serious case of Guillain Barre". His doctors now say that David never lost total use of his limbs. His strongest limbs are now his right leg and left arm. He can straighten both legs and flex both elbows "very well". His family does not want to be interviewed until he is discharged from hospital. It is not known when he will be fit enough to go home. His doctors say that recovery for such patients is usually a long process. Source : Allison Lim
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NEWSFLASH UPDATE: 8/5/98 11:01 AM EST US

  • CLIMBERS LOST ON BROAD PEAK , NEED ASSISTANCE ASAP ! There are two French climbers lost on Broad Peak. EverestNews.com is being told the Polish team, which had one injured climber, but no deaths, have left the mountain. There does not appear to be any communication with Broad peak, the worst is feared, but not confirmed in any way !!! As a good friend of ours pointed out, Remember that people came off K2 after 12 days ! But they need help ! If you know anyone near Broad Peak, please encourage them to send someone over. EverestNews.com has been lead to believe that the families have been told. These are experienced climbers, with the experience to live out a storm. One of them has survived horrible conditions before. They need help, and appear to be the only team left on the mountain.
  • Assistance possibly could be provided by contacting the Pakistan officials, and requesting assistance for these climbers. Please do not contact the press nor the families.

Daily News: 8/5/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98 ! Climbing the South Side of Everest : A Japanese Team (Normal Route) has 6 climbers including a TV team. In addition, the team will have 8 High Altitude Sherpas (Asian-Trekking Again) with them. They will also have a Base Camp Kitchen Staff. The team is being led by Ken Nukuchi. The team is expected to arrive in Kathmandu on 20th August and is expected to depart Kathmandu for the expedition on 23/24 August.
  • Guy Cotter Update: Two Updates from Guy Cotter who is leading an expedition for Adventure Consultants to attempt the summit of Muztagh Ata in western China.
  • K2 Update: Summit attempts are underway !!! On Tuesday (4th) wind diminished a little bit but clouds are still there in the upper part of K2. Waldemar and Italians are still on their way up and will spend the night at Camp 2 (6.700m). Source: guta nascimento.  Some has asked why EverestNews.com is not reporting more about Heidi. Heidi arrived at Base camp later than the other teams and therefore has not had a great deal of contact with Guta's source Waldemar. Also Heidi's web site is excellent, therefore you can read her information in details on her site which is on our K2 links page.
  • Broad Peak: EverestNews.com has spent a huge amount of time on this issue the last two days. The news is not good. However, there is still hope that the missing climbers will be found. Many worried. Our prayers are with them. Let's all hope for the best. If anyone has contacts or information please pass it along...
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Daily News: 8/4/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98 ! Climbing the North Side of Everest : American Craig Calonica, his NEW web site for Everest 98 has been added to our Everest 98 Autumn, 99 Everest Links. Craig attempted Everest in 97 also. He is planning on skiing down !
  • K2 Update:  Monday (3rd) climbers Abele, Adriano, Arnaud and Waldemar went up to Camp 1. They rested for a few days in base camp after establishing Camp 3 and now are on their way up to attempt the Summit ! Climbers expect  full moon (Friday 7th) will bring a window that will allow safe attempts !!! Source: guta nascimento
  • Broad Peak: Many are asking questions about climbers on Broad peak. If you read the K2 links :Irish and Italian sites, you will know basically what we do right now. EverestNews.com has spent considerable time on this issue the last two days, but NO confirmed information at this time.  Many worried. Our prayers are with them, let's all hope for the best.

Daily News: 8/3/98 Report

  • Autumn Everest 98 ! Climbing the South Side (Normal route) of Everest : A Spanish Team has 5 climbers in it. In addition, the team will have 4/5 High Altitude Sherpas (Asian-Trekking)  with them. They will also have Base Camp Kitchen Staff. The team is being led by Juan Corro. The team is expected to arrive in Kathmandu on 17th August and is expected to depart Kathmandu for the expedition on 23/24 August. EverestNews.com has not found a web site yet for this expedition.
  • Press Release from Nepal:                HIMALAYA EventLine

There has been some decisions in the Ministries of Nepal recently.   The Government has informed the trekking industries that Dolpo, Rolpa, Rukum and Jagarkot Area (all Far Western Nepal) have been declared closed for Trekking  & Expedition Teams, to enter these areas for the up coming Autumn Season.  Even though Government has not given any clear reasoning here, everybody however believes that the decision might have been taken in the light of security reasons due to the rising political situation in the areas.

Trekking Industry of Nepal is already caught off guard in spite of   fact that Nepal is still celebrating Visit Nepal Year and the Government’s projected target to increase Tourism from the old stagnant levels to half a million tourists each year now seems to be a mere dream.

Some more free peaks added, but valid till December 1999.

April 16, 1998 Free Peaks till 1999

On the occasion of the Visit Nepal Year 98, His Majesty’s Government of Nepal has decided to exempt the royalty of the following peaks to carry out expedition till the end of 1999.


Peak                      Height            District

Yala                        5732 m          Rasuwa
Chhukungri           5550 m           Solukhumbu
Gokyori                  5450 m             "
Ramdrong            4499 m           Lamjung
Drahmo                 6855 m          Taplejung
Ramchaur            4500 m                 "
Ramtang              6601 m              "
Tengkoma           6215 m                "
Kangtokla            6294 m            Dolpa

The Liaison Officers will also not apply to these 9 Peaks.

British Medical Association Expedition led by Veteran Expedition organizer cum Leader Dr. Simon Currin will be attempting Ramtang and Tenkoma with his first official Expedition to these newly opened and just made free Peaks for the first time in this autumn of 1998.

News compiled by Himalaya Center, Kathmandu Nepal

Bikrum Pandey

Daily News: 8/2/98 Report

Daily News: 8/1/98 Report

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