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August 1998 Daily Reports
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Daily News: 8/31/98 Report
EverestNews.com
per your requests, is covering Cho Oyu this Autumn !
Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team has agreed to provide updates to
EverestNews.com. The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team
updates will be posted on the News Page (here) and also on their own page, which you may
bookmark.
Special Report on the International
Mountain Guides / Expedition 8000
Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu climb:
Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three
times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as
they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu.
Update 2: 8/31/98
The IMG / Expedition 8000 team reached Cho Oyu Base Camp (15,500
feet) on the 30th of August. The team got their satellite e mail system set up and reports
that everyone is doing well.
Jethro Robinson and the six climbers (Demartino, Dittmer, Hamlin,
LaRoche, Smith, Smucler) flew to Lhasa (about 11,500') from Kathmandu and spent several
days exploring and acclimatizing in this famous city. Sites visited included the
Potola (previously home of the Dali Lama), Johkang Temple (most famous monastery in
Lhasa), and the Barkor (the bazaar). They said they had a great time. From
Lhasa, they drove by jeep to Shigatse (second largest city in Tibet, and home of the
Panchen Lama and Tashilumpo monastery--about 12,500'). Then they continued the next
day to Tingri (about 14,500').
The Zhangmu team had a bit rougher trip. Bob Sloezen and
Heather Macdonald and the Sherpa team spent four fun days loading and unloading trucks and
struggling across landslides with several thousand pounds of food, fuel, gear, personal
duffels, and equipment.
Heavy rains in Nepal and China this past monsoon season left the
road in bad shape. Just getting from Kathmandu to Kodari (the Nepal border town)
required hiring porters to carry gear past landslides, then hiring a new truck on the
other side, on four different occasions. This cost an extra $1000 in porters and
trucks...just one of the little unexpected surprises that come with these kind of
trips. From Kodari (6,500'), the road crosses the Friendship Bridge, then climbs
steeply to the Chinese border town of Zhangmu (8,500'), where Chinese customs is
located. Between Zhangmu and Nyalam (12,500'), the road ascends along the wall of
one of the worlds great gorges, this one carved by the Bhote Kosi River that crosses the
Himalaya. This road is incredible, cut into the rock walls of the gorge in many
places, with huge drop offs, and very few guard rails!! There was another landslide
on the way to Nyalam (in the spring season this part of the road is often blocked by huge
snow avalanches), then OK beyond. After two nights in Nyalam, the team continued to
Tingri to meet the rest of the group.
From Tingri the route climbs gradually across the Broad "Plains
of Tingri" a vital grazing area for the many small Tibetan village that dot the
plain. Eventually the rough dirt road reaches the moraine of the Gyabrag
Glacier. Crossing the moraine, the road climbs through outwash plains and crosses
several streams (these are frozen in the spring--often blocking the road in early
season). This is the ancient trade route to the Nangpa La--the route to Namche
Bazaar and Khumbu (in Nepal). Base Camp is located on a grassy field at about 15,500
feet. The various expeditions set up camps around the field, yaks and yak drivers
wander around, Chinese and Tibetans hang out in their tents and play cards, and climbers
from all over the world meet and talk. It is quite the scene!
The current plan is to take four days (re-pack loads for yaks, take
day hikes, acclimatize), then start moving up to ABC (18,500' )on about September 4th
using yaks to move the gear. Source : Eric Simonson, IMG
Update 1: 8/25/98
Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team is now in
Kathmandu, making final preparations for the climb. Simonson reports that this season's
team is led by two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald and one time Cho Oyu and three
time Everest North Ridge summitter Bob Sloezen. They are scheduled to depart Kathmandu for
Tibet on August 25. This will be IMG/Expedition 8000's fifth climb to Cho Oyu, the
world’s sixth highest peak (8201M). The previous four trips have all been successful
(Spring 95, 96, 97 and Autumn 97), with a total of 38 summiters.
Joining Heather and Bob is Assistant Guide Jethro Robinson (USA) and
climbers Alan Arnette (USA), Michael Demartino (USA), Jason Dittmer (USA), Henry Hamlin
(USA), Borge Ousland (Norway), Robert LaRoche (USA), Mark Smith (USA), Tony Smucler
(Canada), and non-guided climbers Alex Jaggi (Switzerland) and Keitaro Morooka (Japan).
Assisting the team are Sherpas Ang Passang (Sirdar), Lakpa Rita, Ang
Nima, Norbu, and cooks Passang Nuru and Pemba Tshering.
Most of the climbers and several of the guides will travel to Lhasa,
Tibet by Chinese airplane, where they will take several days to acclimatize. Most of the
expedition equipment and Sherpas will go overland via Zhangmu. The team will re-assemble
in Tingri, for the last part of the journey to Base Camp. Heavy rains this year in China
and Tibet have apparently caused some problems with the roads, so there is some concern
that getting to Base Camp is going to be more difficult than usual.
Web site of the week is: Alan Hinkes, An ongoing
attempt to be the first Briton to climb the worlds fourteen 8000 meter high mountains. He
has four to go !
Only Babu Chhiri Sherpa has reached the Summit of Everest more times
by the North Side (Four) than Bob Sloezen who has reached the summit of Everest three
times from the North Ridge !
Final Update from Guy Cotter as he led an expedition for Adventure
Consultants to attempt the summit of Muztagh Ata in
western China. Guy Cotter, now back in New Zealand, writes of the tragic accident
that claimed the life of team member Kurt Mendenhall, and of the conclusion to the
expedition. "On the 29th July we moved to camp 1 again. Alex was feeling the effects
of the altitude and couldn't go up the next morning so we waited another day at camp 1,
eventually moving to camp 2 on the 31st. Conditions were generally good although an ice
crust about 20cm below the snow surface made the going difficult as we kept breaking
through into a deep layer of faceted (temperature gradient) crystals which was especially
loose. I felt that a large snowfall would make the snowpack unstable due to these
layers. A small icefall between camps one and two posed no problems and was fixed with ropes by
previous groups. The route was wanded (i.e. bamboo markers with flags attached) and well
trodden by the various groups moving up and down the mountain. A crevasse at 5900m had a
fixed rope on it but presented little problem to cross. We arrived at camp 2 which we
figured was at 6100m at about 1.30pm. The following day we rested but in the evening Alex
complained of headache and I assessed him as suffering AMS (acute mountain sickness) so I
immediately initiated his descent down to camp 1, departing camp 2 at 6.30pm. We made good
time to camp 1 arriving just on nightfall. Alex felt tired but better at the lower
altitude and stayed there so I returned to camp 2 arriving at 11.30pm. At 9.00am in the
morning (2nd August) we prepared ourselves and in good weather moved up to establish camp
3. We climbed steadily and in three hours arrived at 6500m where we set up camp, hoping to
make a summit attempt in the morning. A large thunderstorm came in overnight
depositing about 30cm of new snow and as the storm did not abate until about 6.00am we did
not make the attempt that day. The slope we were camped on had the potential for avalanche
activity with another major snowfall and we could not stay where we were. We felt that
with the cloud build-up we were experiencing that day, there was a high likelihood of more
snow so we decided to retreat. We packed up and began the ski descent about 12.15pm. The
snow was deep and the sun was making the snow settle quickly. At around 6330m we met 5
members of another group who were moving up to camp 3 from camp 2. We continued skiing
down the slope but Kurt began having difficulties with his skis. The snow was sticking to
them and he was having difficulty controlling them. At 6250m Kurt stopped and decided to
walk down the trail the last 150m to the camp which we could clearly see below us. He
suggested that Peter and I carry on to the camp and await him there. The trail was wanded
and had been used throughout the season and there was no apparent sign of crevasses
anywhere on the slope, no change of angle which would suggest crevassing and had been
walked up by 6 people that morning. (the 5 we met at about 6330m and one other following
behind) Peter and I continued down the slope on skis and began packing gear at camp 2
(6100m) at about 1.45pm. I watched as Kurt began descending the slope then turned to
continue with the packing. At around 2.00pm I became concerned that Kurt had not
arrived at the camp and thought he was in a small area hidden from view 20m above the camp
so I walked up the slope to have a look. Once I was able to look at the whole slope I
realized Kurt was not on the slope and since no tracks deviated from the trail, I realized
he must have fallen into a crevasse. I ran down to the camp and packed up crevasse
extraction gear, put skins back on skis, then proceeded up the hill until I came to the
crevasse. I saw a ski pole on the surface and a hole about 1m by 1m wide. I walked to
within about 1.5m from the hole and yelled out but heard no reply. The hole was dark and I
could see nothing inside it. I dug a trench to place an anchor then anchored the rope onto
it. Peter arrived at this time and helped me to rig another ski as a back-up anchor. I
began to descend into the hole placing the rope over a ski on the lip to stop it caving
away but when I got into the crevasse I realized the crevasse was running up the hill and
not across it as most crevasses do. I had been standing on the lid of the crevasse when I
had yelled down and not known it. The anchor I had set up was also on (or partially on)
the lid also and my rope was running down the length of the crevasse roof so I gingerly
climbed back out of the crevasse. Peter and I reset the anchors across the slope from the
hole then I abseiled into the crevasse again. It was a very deep hole and when inside I
could see no sign of Kurt as it was so dark inside. The crevasse roof was quite thin,
about 70cm to 1m, and the crevasse was about 50m from end to end. The trail ran right
along the full length of the crevasse and Kurt had broken through right in the center. Had
the track been 1 or 2 meters to either side it would have missed the crevasse completely.
The crevasse was about 3m wide at the top and had shear walls with no bridges inside the
crevasse. Near the end on my rope which I estimate to be 40 - 43 meters into the
crevasse I found Kurt. He had died of injuries sustained in the fall. It was not possible
to extract him from the crevasse. In a shocked state I climbed out of the crevasse. In 25
years of mountaineering I had never seen anyone actually go into a crevasse further than
their armpits before, with or without a rope (apart from crevasse extraction practice
sessions). The fact that the trail had been repeatedly used during the season, and indeed
by 6 people 1 hour earlier that day, leaves me perplexed by the indiscriminate way in
which the mountains take lives. Obviously had we known there was a crevasse in that region
we would have avoided it. But it was well hidden, so well so that I had walked uphill of
the crevasse and stood on the roof in the belief that it was a horizontal crevasse where
it actually ran up the hill. Peter and I packed up the equipment from the mountain that
day to Basecamp where we joined Alex and on the 4th moved to Kashgar to initiate
formalities. This has been a very difficult time for us and we extend our deepest
sympathies to the friends and family of Kurt. Whilst we place maximum emphasis on safety
we are in an environment where the outcome of any expedition at the outset is unclear.
This is the essence of adventure which on-the-whole provides us with stimulation and a
huge appreciation of the power of the environment and nature. Yet there are occasions like
this where every effort we make to operate in absolute safety are not enough. The
mountains will forever remain hazardous and cannot be controlled by mankind's' influence -
for better or worse, this is why we go there. "Source: ADVENTURE CONSULTANTS LIMITED
- High Altitude Expeditions: See their web site on our climbers
links page
Daily News: 8/29/98 Report
Bob Sloezen, (who along with Heather MacDonald is leading the IMG
Expedition on Cho Oyu) has reached the summit of Everest three times from the North Ridge.
Who else has reached the summit of Everest three or more times from the North Side? Answer
on Sunday......submit who you think to everestnews2004@adelphia.net
Icelanders to climb Ama Dablam: Árni
Edvaldsson, Júlíus Gunnarsson, Símon Halldórsson, Valgardur Sæmundsson and Örvar Atli Thorgeirsson of the
Fiskaklettur Rescue Service Team in Hafnarfjördur, Reykjavík, will be setting off from
Iceland on September 27th for Kathmandu in Nepal where they will be climbing the beautiful
but notoriously steep-sided Ama Dablam mountain which lies some 15km from Mount Everest.
First climbed by an expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary in 1961, Ama Dablam is known for
its many vertical rock faces, steep ice-slopes and a knife-edge ridge. The Icelandic
expedition is being planned and led by Briton Nick Keukus, while Icelanders Sveinn Thór
Thorkelsson and Pálmi Másson will be going along as assistants. Source: Ron Klaassen
Everest Autumn 98 Expeditions and Climbers summary !
South Side:
Japanese climbing from South West Face. Believed to be a Solo ascent
by Masafuni Todaka
Japanese Everest Team: Ken Noguchi's Team, Noriyuki Muraguchi (High
Altitude Camera Man). Noriyuki Muraguchi will accompany Ken Noguchi to the summit. Base
Camp Staff: Ms. Kuniko Miyashita Base Camp Supporter, Takeshi Shiba Base Camp Reporter,
and Takeshi Kitagawa Cameraman. The High Altitude Sherpas (Asian-Trekking): Dawa Teshi
Sherpa ( 6 times Everest summitter) will be H.A. Sirdar, Tamting Sherpa, Pasang Tshering
Sherpa, Nawang Tenzi Sherpa, Krishna Bahadur Tamang, Pemba Sherpa (Cook), and Chimi
Tshering Sherpa (Kitchen Boy).
Spanish Everest Expedition: The team consists of : Juan Corro Tormo
(Expedition Leader), Ricardo Villar Garcia, Javier Garcia, Ramiro Beltron Miravet, and
Carlos Pitarch Francisco. High Altitude Sherpas: Pasang Temba Sherpa (H.A.Sirdar), Ang
Kami Sherpa (High Altitude Cook), Nurbu Sherpa, Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Gyalzen
Sherpa, Dorje Sherpa, and Lhakpa Tamang (Kitchen Boy). This Expedition is also supported
by Asian-Trekking.
North Side
Japanese (two climbers) and the Sherpas on their team. Unknown
names.
French Team - The Team consists of Jerome Ruby Leader, Andre Rehm,
Samuel Beauget, Panuru Sherpa High Altitude Sirdar, Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa High Altitude
Sherpa, Ang Pasang Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Gyalzen Sherpa Cook, and Gombu Dorje Lama
Kitchen Boy (all Sherpa from Asian-Trekking).
ProViva Everest Ski Expedition 1998, American climber Craig Robert
Calonica, Lakpa Dorjee Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Dawa Tsiri High Altitude Sherpa, Maule
Tamang High Altitude Sherpa, and Pinjo Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa (You guess it, all
Sherpa from Asian -Trekking).
The Italian Team - consists of Martini Sergio Italian, Simone Moro
Italian, Casanova Diego Italian, and I Iman Singh Tamang High Altitude Sherpa/Cook
(Asian-Trekking).
Spanish Team - The Team consists of Ms. Majesus Lagorey Spanish,
Pasang Rinzee Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Kusang Dorjee, Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, and
Dawa Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa. This team is also supported by Asian-Trekking.
IMG (International Mountain Guides), owned and operated by Eric
Simonson, Phil Ershler, and George Dunn, is one of the oldest high altitude mountaineering
guide services in the United States, annually leading several dozen expeditions on the
world's seven continents. Eric Simonson, a veteran of over seventy expeditions
around the world, has been organizing and leading Himalayan climbs since 1979. These
include fifteen expeditions to 8000 meter peaks in Nepal and Tibet including six to
Everest, and five to Cho Oyu.
"Expedition 8000" is
the organization through which Eric works to send expeditions to challenge the 8,000 meter
peaks of the Himalaya. As one of the founding members of IGO 8000, a group of high
altitude expedition outfitters, Eric and his guides provide a top quality trip for members
of the Expedition 8000 team. The climbs are professionally led and guided. IMG will
be providing EverestNews.com with updates for Cho Oyu this Autumn. Please see their IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu climb page. For more
information on IMG and Expedition 8000, please see their website at
www.climbnet.com/img.
Daily News: 8/27/98 Report
EverestNews.com
per your requests, will post an updated report on Fran
and Sergi deaths on Everest this year within the next week. However, the report will be
incomplete in that details are still missing. EverestNews.com understands your interest and
is concerned by the numerous incorrect reports on this event. The latest www.risk.ru
report does contain significant information about these deaths, that should be reviewed in
detail.
Several people has contacted us saying that their was a report on
another web site, stating that there was an Everest Summit this summer. EverestNews.com
has
no information on any attempts nor summits of Everest this summer. EverestNews.com
contacted the Nepal Mountaineering Section, which reported to us that they have no
knowledge of any summits this summer. EverestNews.com believed that there was not any summits
this summer nor any attempts.
EVEREST OPENS AT IWERKS GIANT SCREEN THEATERS NATIONWIDE: The
large-format box-office mega-hit, Everest, is now playing at Iwerks giant screen theaters
nationwide. Everest has generated more than $32.2 million in gross domestic box
office receipts, $40.5 million worldwide, within 20 weeks of release, making it the
fastest-grossing large-format film. Everest is currently showing at four Iwerks
theaters and will premiere at two additional theaters over the coming months. More to this
news soon.
Please keep submitting those Web sites of the week to:
everestnews2004@adelphia.net . Feel free
to give us input on sites you would like to see.
As many of you have noticed, the Special Report on Everest climber,
Guy Cotter as he led an expedition for Adventure Consultants to attempt the summit of
Muztagh Ata in western China has not been updated for several
days (weeks). As many of you guessed, if was because of tragic news. Kurt Mendenhall, a climber from the US,
died when he fell into a crevasse on the climb. The report on this tragic accident can be
read on the Adventure Consultant web site on our Climber's
links page. When EverestNews.com learned this tragic news, we conducted
Adventure Consultants and told them we would hold the news until they notified us that the
family was notified and they were ready to release the news. They just notified us that
this has been done. EverestNews.com would like to extend our deepest sympathies to the
friends and family of Kurt Mendenhall.
Cho Oyu Autumn 98: Details on two more teams, from Asian-Trekking in
this case. Asian's report: a) International Cho-Oyu Expedition '98 departed Kathmandu for
Zangmu yesterday. Britta Jokela Marjatta (supporting trekker) Finnish Female, Tuula
Nousiainen Helena (Climber) Finnish Female, Susan Erica (Climber)
Australian Female. Sherpa Staff: Mr. Naga Dorje Sherpa
(Tuula's Climbing Sherpa), Mr. Chhong Ringe Sherpa (Tuula's Climbing Sherpa), Mr. Ngima
Dorje Sherpa (Susan's Climbing Sherpa), Mr. Mingma Tamang (cook). Asian Trekking has made
special arrangement and provided two of the most renowned Climbing Sherpas, who have
successfully climbed Cho-Oyu several times, to help Tuula Nousiainen Helena. It is going
to be the first attempt of a Finnish Woman to an 8,000 m mountain. We are, therefore,
assisting her with extra care. All of us are doing our best to help her achieve the record
of being the first Finnish Woman on top of Mt. Cho-Oyu. Source: Asian-Trekking (b)
Himalayan Experience Cho-Oyu Expedition 'Autumn 98 - will depart Kathmandu for Zangmu on
1st September. Mr. Russell Reginald Brice New Zealander Leader, Mr. Roy C.T.
Hughes British Climber, Mr. David Grey Australian Climber, Mr. Douglas Keith Ward Canadian
Climber, Mrs. Maureen E. MacLean Canadian Climber, Mr. Peter Barton Smith British Climber,
Mr. Larry McGerry British Climber, Mr. Alan Paul Ropp American Climber, Mr. David Cumming
British Climber, Ms. Caroline Baird British Climber, Sherpa Staff: Sonam Tashi Sherpa High
Altitude Sherpa, Krishna Bahadur Sunuwar Kitchen Boy, Kul Bahadur Magar Kitchen Boy,
Loppsang Temba Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Chuldim Temba Sherpa High Altitude Sirdar,
Birbal Tamang Cook, Phurba Tashi Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa. Source: Asian-Trekking
EverestNews.com
per your requests, is covering Cho Oyu this Autumn !
Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team, along with others have agreed to
give EverestNews.com Updates. The IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team
updates will be posted on the News Page (here) and also on their own page, which
you may bookmark.
Special Report on the International Mountain Guides
/ Expedition 8000
Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu climb:
Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three
times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as
they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu.
The IMG/Expedition 8000 Autumn Cho Oyu climb has three guides, eight
guided and two non-guided climbers, and six sherpas. They arrive Kathmandu the 22nd, leave
for Lhasa on the 25th, arrive BC about the end of Aug/beginning of September. They
hope to summit around the end of September, and return to Kathmandu by October 6.
Update: 8/25/98
Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team is now in
Kathmandu, making final preparations for the climb. Simonson reports that this season's
team is led by two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald and one time Cho Oyu and three
time Everest North Ridge summitter Bob Sloezen. They are scheduled to depart Kathmandu for
Tibet on August 25. This will be IMG/Expedition 8000's fifth climb to Cho Oyu, the
world’s sixth highest peak (8201M). The previous four trips have all been successful
(Spring 95, 96, 97 and Autumn 97), with a total of 38 summiters.
Joining Heather and Bob is Assistant Guide Jethro Robinson (USA) and
climbers Alan Arnette (USA), Michael Demartino (USA), Jason Dittmer (USA), Henry Hamlin
(USA), Borge Ousland (Norway), Robert LaRoche (USA), Mark Smith (USA), Tony Smucler
(Canada), and non-guided climbers Alex Jaggi (Switzerland) and Keitaro Morooka (Japan).
Assisting the team are Sherpas Ang Passang (Sirdar), Lakpa Rita, Ang
Nima, Norbu, and cooks Passang Nuru and Pemba Tshering.
Most of the climbers and several of the guides will travel to Lhasa,
Tibet by Chinese airplane, where they will take several days to acclimatize. Most of the
expedition equipment and Sherpas will go overland via Zhangmu. The team will re-assemble
in Tingri, for the last part of the journey to Base Camp. Heavy rains this year in China
and Tibet have apparently caused some problems with the roads, so there is some concern
that getting to Base Camp is going to be more difficult than usual.
News from Everest is a little slow, with teams departing in route to
BC or setting up at BC.
Daily News: 8/24/98 Report
The Web site of the week is: Everest climber Erhard Loretan.
http://www.loretan.com/
Erhard once climbed Everest in about a day and one half (around 39 hours). He was the
third to have climbed the fourteen 8000 m peaks.
Cho Oyu Teams expected on the mountain this Autumn:
1.) Natour Cho-Oyu is a expedition group from Germany, supported by
Asian-Trekking. The team consists of: Jurgen Wolter, Peter Lambert, Pavel Dolecek, Neri
Dolecek, and Markus Blanchebarbe. There are 2 climbing Sherpas (High Altitude Sherpas),
Mingma Sherpa and Kikami Dawa. Cook and Kitchen Boys: Lacchu Basnet, Ram Chandra, and Da
Keepa Sherpa.
2.) High Adventure Cho Oyu Expedition 1998: Mike Trueman's expedition
which includes Dan Trueman, Andreas Mayer (Austria), and Damian Ryan (Ireland).
3.) Henry Todd, no details known at this point.
4.) The International Mountain Guides Autumn Cho Oyu Expedition has
three guides, six climbers, and four sherpas. They arrive Kathmandu the 22nd, leave for
Lhasa on the 25th, arrive BC about the end of August/beginning of September. The
International Mountain Guides Expedition plans to summit around the end of September, back
to Kathmandu by October 6. IMG is sending Bob Sloezen and Heather Macdonald to led the
attempt, more details soon on IMG.
5.) Himalayan Experience Cho-Oyu,Russell Brice's Team supported by
Asian-Trekking.
6.) Others
This Spring several Expeditions attempted Cho Oyu, many of them
failing to put even one climber on top. More details on these spring expeditions on the
next few days.
Daily News: 8/23/98 Report
Everest Autumn 98:
As many of you have probably noticed, Asian-Trekking is supporting 4
out of 5 of the Everest Teams on the North Side this Autumn, and both expeditions on the
South Side this Autumn ! That is 6 out of 7 expeditions !!! The other South Side
expedition is reportedly a true "solo" expedition, therefore cannot have
support. Asian-Trekking also is supporting/leading many other expeditions in Nepal and
Tibet at the same time, including three of the Expeditions that will be on Cho Oyu this
Autumn, during our coverage. It appears Asian-Trekking
is becoming a dominating force for the sport in Nepal and Tibet !!!
A copy of the Public Eye show on Tom Whittaker can be ordered by
calling CBS at 1-800-934-NEWS. The cost is $32 which includes shipping and handling.
Tell them you saw them on EverestNews.com !!!
Cho Oyu Autumn Teams on Monday !
Daily News: 8/22/98 Report
Everest Autumn 98:
Don't know if everyone noticed the name, Simone Moro, on the Italian
Everest Team this Autumn. Yes, this is the Simone Moro, best known here in American for
being the climber who survived the avalanche on Annapurna that killed Anatoli Boukreev.
Simone, however, is a very well respected climber in his own right ! More on Simone later.
Most teams are arriving in Base camp and are preparing to head up
the mountain !
EverestNews.com
will be working with Craig Calonica's
team www.skiingeverest.com this Autumn on Everest on the North Side to provide
updated news. Craig's "video" team is lead by John Sheridan Reed. Craig and John
has very big plans on providing 21 live shows via the Internet with Streaming Video and
numerous other specials from Everest !!! Please visit their site for all the details.
Craig's attempt will also be carried by the USA today.
Appa Sherpa was supposed to go to Everest this fall as
EverestNews.com previously reported. But since his arrival from USA is delayed, he will not join the
teams on the North Side this fall.
Ken Noguchi the Japanese climber on the South Side this Autumn does
has an old web site that contains some background information on him when he was
attempting the North Side of Everest. .http://mbs.co.jp/news/everest/index_e.sht
As a good friend of ours pointed out: After reading the Dhaulagiri
updates from Veikka G. I realized that now, two of France's most famous climbers
died in 1998, Chantal Maudit and Eric Escoffier. Sad for France, sad for the climbing
world.
How good were these climbers? Both had reached the Summit of K2 !!!
However, both never realized their dreams of the Summit of Everest. Chantal was the only
woman alive to summit K2 without the use of bottled oxygen. She attempted Everest 7 times
without the use of bottled oxygen and sadly failed all 7 times.
As EverestNews.com posted before, a special fund has been set up for the
child (Lhakpa) of Chantal Mauduit and the children of Ang Tshering Sherpa, her
Sherpa friend that died with her. The aim of this association is to continue financing the
studies of the children and to improve living conditions and education in the villages of
these children. Your gifts should be made out to "Chantel Mauduit
Namaste" and sent to: Association Chantal Mauduit Namaste 56, Street of the Suburb St
Antoine 75012 Paris, France
Daily News: 8/20/98 Report
Everest Autumn 98 has started ! Today we highlight the South Side
teams.
To recap: EverestNews.com believes a total of 3 teams will be on the
South Side this Autumn. The Japanese has two teams and the Spanish has one. Below are
details.
One Japanese Team climbing from South West Face.
Japanese Everest Team: There are two climbers and one is high
altitude camera man. Ken Noguchi and Noriyuki Muraguchi (High Altitude Camera Man).
Noriyuki Muraguchi will accompany Ken Noguchi to the summit. Base Camp Staff: Ms. Kuniko
Miyashita Base Camp Supporter, Takeshi Shiba Base Camp Reporter, and Takeshi Kitagawa
Cameraman. The High Altitude Sherpas (Asian-Trekking): Dawa Teshi Sherpa ( 6 times Everest
summitter) will be H.A. Sirdar, Tamting Sherpa, Pasang Tshering Sherpa, Nawang Tenzi
Sherpa, Krishna Bahadur Tamang, Pemba Sherpa (Cook), and Chimi Tshering Sherpa (Kitchen
Boy).
Spanish Everest Expedition: The team consists of : Juan Corro Tormo(
Expedition Leader), Ricardo Villar Garcia, Javier Garcia, Ramiro Beltron Miravet, and
Carlos Pitarch Francisco. High Altitude Sherpas: Pasang Temba Sherpa (H.A.Sirdar), Ang
Kami Sherpa (High Altitude Cook), Nurbu Sherpa, Pemba Nuru Sherpa, Mingma Sherpa, Gyalzen
Sherpa, Dorje Sherpa, and Lhakpa Tamang (Kitchen Boy). This Expedition is also supported
by Asian-Trekking.
98 Autumn Everest Links has been updated again with the most current
information.
The Web site of the week is: Everest climber Veikka Gustafsson
http://www.veikka.com/eng/index.htm.
His web site is in Finnish and English. He also has information on this site about when he
was part of Everest 96. Note when the report ends. Sorry, we are late in posting this. The
staff has been very busy, with K2 ending, Everest beginning, and other items.
To recap: EverestNews.com now believes a total of 5 teams will be on the
North Side this Autumn. The French, American, Japanese, Italian, and Spanish. The Japanese
(two climbers) and the Sherpas on their team has arrived on the North Side and has started
up the mountain.
French Team - leaving Kathmandu on 18th August The Team consists of
Jerome Ruby Leader, Andre Rehm, Samuel Beauget, Panuru Sherpa High Altitude Sirdar, Pemba
Gyalzen Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Ang Pasang Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Gyalzen
Sherpa Cook, and Gombu Dorje Lama Kitchen Boy (all Sherpa from Asian-Trekking).
American Team - leaving Kathmandu on 20th August Team consists
of Craig Robert Calonica USA, Lakpa Dorjee Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Dawa Tsiri High
Altitude Sherpa, Maule Tamang High Altitude Sherpa, and Pinjo Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa
(You guess it, all Sherpa from Asian -Trekking).
The Italian Team - leaving Kathmandu 20th August Team consists
of Martini Sergio Italian, Simone Moro Italian (will depart Kathmandu on 4th September
only), Casanova Diego Italian, and I Iman Singh Tamang High Altitude Sherpa/Cook
(Asian-Trekking).
Spanish Team - leaving KTM on 20th August The Team consists of Ms.
Majesus Lagorey Spanish, Pasang Rinzee Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Kusang Dorjee, Sherpa
High Altitude Sherpa, and Dawa Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa. This team is also supported by
Asian-Trekking.
K2 Wrap Up: Today (Monday 18th) Waldemar and Italian climbers worked
on bringing down equipment from Camps 1 and 2. They will spend next days also removing the
ropes that were fixed. Climbers want to let the mountain as clean as they found it. Just
to remember: the team arrived at base camp on June 24th. Their first intention was to
climb K2 via Magic Line and ski down by Abruzzi's Spur. Waldemar and Italians were the
first climbers to arrive at K2 this season as Irish climbers went first to Broad Peak.
Weather has been very bad during all season. Despite it the 7 climbers managed to fix
2,500 meters of ropes over the spur. Three camps have been established (6,000m, 6,700m and
7,450m). At Abruzzi's Spur fixed ropes are indispensable. The route reached difficult
level 5 and inclination of 60o. Meanwhile climbers of different nationalities arrived at
bc as Spanish, Turkish, Americans, Canadians and Irish. Weather continued bad. In June
there were only 4 days of good weather. On July 31st, with a lot of sacrifice, climbers
managed to break trail until camp 3 at 7,450m. But bad weather and strong winds made them
go back down to base camp. On August 9th, 3 climbers went back to Italy but before that
Marco Barmasse skied down from 6,700m becoming the first person to ski on K2. 4 climbers
remained on the expedition. On August 13th climbers departed once again to try the summit.
For Waldemar it was his 8th attempt. Weather seemed to improve and on August 14th climbers
managed to establish Camp 4 at 8,000m. They arrived at 5 p.m. The group was Waldemar from
Brazil, Abele, Edmond and Arnaud from Italy, and Pepe from Spain. All climbers seemed to
be in good health condition. At 10 p.m. they started preparing themselves to the final
attempt but at 11 p.m. they realized sky started to get clouded. At midnight it started
snowing and a strong west wind reached the tents. At 7 a.m. a small avalanche fell over
their camp forcing climbers to leave the tents. Even with the bad conditions they tried to
gain some meters under a heavy snowstorm. The altimeter registered 8,040m when all the
mass of snow where climbers were above (drowning until the middle of the body at each
step) started sliding mountain down. The group decided to go down immediately. But going
down wasn't also easy. Avalanches threatened to come and winds of 100 kilometers/per hour
threw climbers into the ground. Fixed ropes saved their lives. source: guta nascimento
All Climbers on K2 are reported down at BC (5,100m) and safe.
Waldemar and Italian team are safe down at base camp. It took them 12
hours to climb down from camp 4 (8,000m) till BC (5,100m). Correcting an information sent
before, the group reached 8,040m and not 8,050m as reported previously. Waldemar
calculates if weather had been "hold" for more 10 hours, climbers could have
reached the top of the mountain. But with the high winds and snow they faced it was
impossible to go ahead. The group regrets that after two months on the mountain they
couldn't reach the top, but everyone is happy to be alive, safe, and to have had the
chance to improve their climbing skills reaching 8,040m. They intend to go back next year
and with more knowledge of the mountain, conquer their objective. source: guta
nascimento
Look for more K2 news sometime today.
Daily News: 8/18/98 Report
Everest Autumn 98 has started ! Two Japanese and Sherpas on their
team has arrived on the North Side and has started up the mountain.
EverestNews.com
now believes a total of 5 teams will be on the North
Side this fall. The French, American, Japanese, Italian, and Spanish.
The Italian Team - leaving Kathmandu 20th August Team consists
of Martini Sergio Italian, Simone Moro Italian (will depart Kathmandu on 4th September
only), Casanova Diego Italian, and I Iman Singh Tamang High Altitude Sherpa/Cook
(Asian-Trekking).
Spanish Team - leaving KTM on 20th August The Team consists of Ms.
Majesus Lagorey Spanish, Pasang Rinzee Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa, Kusang Dorjee, Sherpa
High Altitude Sherpa, and Dawa Sherpa High Altitude Sherpa. This team is also supported by
Asian-Trekking.
FYI, EverestNews.com, during these Autumn Everest Expeditions, we will
go back to updating the site daily when the News comes vs updating every night.
K2 NEWSFLASH: 8/17/98 1:26PM EST US
Waldemar gave up reaching the Summit of K2 this season. After
8,050meters there were avalanches and the weather was very bad. He descended all the
way back to base camp. Next year he will be back. I'm waiting for his e-mail with more
details, as soon as I talk to him I'll inform you. Source: guta nascimento
No news on the others, hopefully with the next update.
Daily News: 8/17/98 Report
EverestNews.com
hopes to have news soon on whether or not Waldemar and
the three Italians climbers we believe were with him reached the Summit of K2.
On Saturday (15th) Waldemar reached camp 4 at 8,050m. He reported
that he was feeling a very strong headache. By that time climbers weren't using oxygen
bottles. Waldemar reported that at Saturday 10 p.m. they were planning to leave for
the summit attempt. We still don't know how many climbers are up there. On Friday (14th)
Waldemar reported that he and Italians Abele, Arnaud and Edmond were already above Camp 3
at an altitude where there were no more fixed ropes and steps. As all of them were
extremely tired they alternated and changed place for breaking trail. Now we can only
wait. As long as they don't have any computer up there to send reports let's just hope for
the best and wait. Source: guta nascimento
Broad Peak: A search mission was carried out on the August 14th 1998
for two French Climbers namely Eric Escoffier & Pascale Bessieres who are missing on
Broad Peak. Two lama Helicopters specially chartered for this purpose under supervision of
Qshraf Aman, first Pakistani to climb K2 and Shah Jehan well know climber. During 6 hours
of flying search the entire north-west and south-west face of this mountain no clue about
the missing French climbers should be found. Meanwhile two Spanish mountaineers who
climbed Broad Peak are of the opinion that the winds bellow taken them up the mountain
ridge towards Chinese side i.e. the east Face..... It appears these climbers are
lost....very sad news to the climbing community...
By the time you read this Waldemar, the great Brazilian climber,
should be above Camp 4 (around 8,000 Meters) pushing for the Summit of K2. Other are with
him, probably the Italians, but not confirmed who and how many at time point. The weather
was mostly clear yesterday but with wind. Some unstable air is still being reported.
The Americans are believed to be at Camp 3, but this is not
confirmed. There are still believed to be only the 9 climbers (see earlier reports) high
on the mountain. Therefore, confirmation on information is going to be difficult.
Sometimes you just have to run with it !
Broad Peak: Helicopters has been searching Broad Peak, no information
on Results. It has been a long time.
Keep checking back all day for more information and about the search
for the lost climbers of Broad Peak. This update will continue to change and/or be adding
to.
Daily News: 8/15/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98: We received two reports today that Jordi Tass was
not going to Everest this fall. In checking Craig Calonica's new web site on our 98 Everest Autumn Links Page, he appears to confirm this.
Danish Gasherbrum Expedition 98
EverestNews.com
Summary Report
The Danish Team did not make the summit of the unclimbed Gasherbrum
6, however they were successful in reaching the summit of Gasherbrum 1 (Hidden Peak) 8068
meters. Below is messages to us from Bo upon his return, which we thought you might enjoy.
For daily reports on their expeditions see the Danish link in the News Index below.
We think you will be hearing much more about this very strong Danish
climber in the future.
Hello EverestNews.com
Yes I'm safe back. Apart from 1 degree frostbite in 4 toes
(senseless toetips, sense reappears after a month or two - I have tried it before) I'm
feeling well and fit. I lost around 5 kg. almost exactly the amount I intentedly put on
before going. We reached the summit of Gasherbrum 1 on the July 9. I was there at 9:13
(according to the recordings of my digital videocamera which we used both to make pictures
for internet and to make film), Mads Granlien at 9:28 and Jan Mathorne at 9:48. I stayed
there in almost perfect weather for 45 minutes. We could se around 200 km. from the summit
in the clear weather. We were the first to reach the summit this year and we were in front
of 5 other expeditions all the time. We fixed rope some of the way up the Japanese couloir
using rope from a Japanese and German expedition. The day before summit attempt we put up
our camp 3 at 7000 meters in the afternoon. In the evening we slept around 2 hours before
starting to melt water for the summit attempt. At 00:30 we started from the tent. There
was a cold wind and minus 18 C. so we saw forward to sunrise. The climbing from camp 3 was
sometimes rather steep (50 maybe 55 degrees) but we climbed individually. The final wall
up to the summit confused us. We could se two summits and I made tracks up to the one on
the left which unfortunately was the lowest of the two. I had to come down to a little col
between the two summits from where I could go up a corniced ridge to the real summit. Jan
and Mads had been waiting and could therefore go directly to the col and up the ridge.
When we left Basecamp on July 16. the only one to do the climb apart from us was a German
climber, Dieter Porsche. He made it to the summit the day after us. He started with a
friend, Peter ??, from camp 3. Peter had a minor accident. He fell down the S couloir
(shaped like an S) and was lucky not to hit the rocks along the sides. He should have
fallen 3-400 meters before finally being able to stop himself. Peter came back to camp 3
at 4 in the morning just as we were leaving for Basecamp. Dieter made it to the summit
alone.
When we left Basecamp weather was again unstable as it was most of
this season. Some had left the day before for camp 2 but we suppose they turned around due
to the unstable weather. The only good period we experienced was the 5 days we were doing
our summit push. We were prepared and acclimatized at that time.
Future Plans
Yes, it was a really good trip to Gasherbrum. And this time I didn't
get tired of being in Pakistan. Probably due to the fact that it was second time there. We
all knew what to expect of bureaucracy and lack of women in public etc. We will probably
go to Pakistan next time (for K2). But that all depends on another Dane, that probably
will attempt again next year on Mt. Everest without oxygen. If he doesn't get to the
summit - like this year - we will be on the big hill in year 2000.
Going to 8400 without oxygen in '96 together with Veikka Gustafsson
I'm pretty sure of being able to make it to the summit in just slightly better conditions.
Greetings, Bo.
Bo Belvedere Christensen
K2 Update: Various reports are coming out of K2, which is always
concerning. Some that the weather is good , some that the weather is very bad with high
wind. guta nascimento message from this morning: Thursday 7 climbers went up in the lead
group. The group is: Waldemar (Brazil), Abele, Arnaud and Edmond (Italy), Pepe, José
Antonio and Luis Miguel (Spain). The weather improved although it isn't completely good.
Wind is still very strong. Today they intend to sleep at camp 2 (6.700m)..... So it
appears we have at least 9 climbers (with the two Americans) on the mountain.
Daily News: 8/14/98 Report
The North Side Summit record for Everest was broken this year.
EverestNews.com believes there were 80 or more Summits from the North Side this year. We are
still waiting on the names and numbers from the Chinese climbers. The summit page is
complete except for these Chinese climbers. We believe the main reason for this record was
the number of very experienced teams attempting Everest from the North Side and the
preparation these teams took. There has never before been this many experienced well
prepared teams attempting Everest from the North. Very few of these climbers were clients
on expeditions, almost all the climbers that reached the summit were on national teams.
The previous record was 67 in 1995.
Cho Oyu coverage, per your requests, will begin soon.
K2 Update: Summit bids underway again !!! Waldemar has raced up the
mountain and is currently at Camp 3 !!! The weather is unstable and the snow is deep. Much
like when he reached the Summit of Everest from the North Side, with a climber from
another team, named Anatoli Boukreev. We are sure if Waldemar is alone or with other
climbers. Some climbers, which we believe are the American are at or near Camp 2. Some
climbers have turned around. Information limited at this point. Hope to have more
information soon.
Waldemar has raced up the mountain and is currently at Camp 3 !!! The
weather is unstable and the snow is deep. Much like when he reached the Summit of Everest
from the North Side, with a climber from another team, named Anatoli Boukreev. We are sure
if Waldemar is alone or with other climbers. Some climbers, which we believe are the
American are at or near Camp 2. Some climbers have turned around. Information limited at
this point. Hope to have more information soon.
Daily News: 8/13/98 Report
Tom Whittaker successful Everest 98 climb was on the CBS program
Public Eye last night. A good program, if you missed it try to watch it on the reruns.
K2 Update: Summit bids underway again !!! Today (Wednesday 12th)
Waldemar and Italians climbers decided to go up. Weather improved a little bit and they
will start an attempt. Climbers expect weather can improve in the next days. If not, they
will come down to BC, wait and make another attempt before August 24th (on August 25th
permits expire and they must leave K2). Climbers on K2 are very anxious about
weather. On Monday 10th Italian team invited Spanish climbers for dinner. Meanwhile they
eat dhal bat (a typical food with rice and lentils) in the Italian tent they realized that
some stars started appearing at sky. They immediately became hopeful and decided to go
sleep to wake up at 4 a.m and restart climbing. But unfortunately they didn't have to wait
at 3 a.m. big and heavy flakes of snow started falling upon the tents and they gave up
going up to Camp 1 again. Yesterday (Tuesday 11th) it rained all day. On the day before
(Monday 10th) 3 Italian climbers had return for home. Adriano Favre, Marco Barmasse and
Alessandro Ollier left K2 at six o'clock in the morning under a thin snow and black
clouded sky. (Italian team's doctor, Chiara Dezza, also has gone). It was a busy morning
on K2 Base Camp as 55 porters, Irish climbers and some part of Turkish team also
departured. Base Camp has been silent for all day. From Italian/Brazilian team
remained the following climbers: Waldemar Niclevicz, Abele Blanca, Arnaud Clavel, Edmond
Joyeusaz . 3 Spanish climbers still remain on K2, as well as Heidi's team (3 climbers)
source: guta nascimento
Broad Peak: Mother nature finally should let the helicopter go in and
the climbers go up and then we will know. Believe it or not, hope has not been given up by
some.
Daily News: 8/12/98 Report
The first group of climbers are leaving for Autumn Everest 98 Today !
The EverestNews.com Autumn 98 Expeditions Page has been updated.
Tom Whittaker successful Everest 98 climb will be on CBS program
Public Eye tonight. Please check local listing for times. EverestNews.com (along with Jochen)
assisted CBS with confirming some facts. Don't know if EverestNews.com will get a credit, as
the program was probably written and produced. However, we will be watching !
Let have a little fun ! Some visitors have suggested an Everest Web
site of the week. Sounds like a good idea to us ! Please submit sites that are not
currently links and we will post one of the submissions every Monday. Submit to
everestnews2004@adelphia.net . These do
NOT need to be English sites ! Do you know that the Singapore expedition also had a
Chinese site?
Broad Peak/K2: Mother nature is not helping the climbers. Very
unstable weather.
Daily News: 8/11/98 Report
EverestNews.com
has confirmed that Hollywood is going to film Touching
the Void starring Tom Cruise as Joe Simpson. Fasten your seat belt !
The first group of climbers are leaving for Autumn Everest 98 on
Wednesday. The EverestNews.com Autumn 98 Expeditions Page has been updated.
Broad Peak: The weather is very bad, the helicopter could not fly
again, but hope is still being held out that somehow these climbers are alive. The
helicopter will fly as soon as the weather improves.
K2 Update: Several climbers are leaving the mountain as Guta reported
on the 8th. The weather is very similar to Broad Peak, unstable (bad). The good news is
all the climbers got down. Waldemar was on Everest with Eric Escoffier in 91. He is very
upset with the news. If the weather breaks, Heidi might benefit from arriving late, and
much of the fixing of ropes performed by others teams allowing her to be fresh.
If you missed it, Jochen's research papers updates has been posted to
EverestNews.com. Check the News index below for details.
EverestNews.com
Autumn 98: Nepal (South Side), there are going to be
three teams making attempts to the Summit from Nepal Side as follows: (1.) One Japanese
Team climbing from South West Face. EverestNews.com assumes this is the solo attempt by
Masafuni Todaka, that the Japanese told us about earlier, but we are trying to confirm
this. (2.) One Japanese Team and One Spanish Team climbing the normal route. These two
teams climbing the normal route are being handled by Asian Trekking. The Japanese Team
(Normal Route) has 6 climbers including TV team. In addition, the team will have 8 High
Altitude Sherpas with them. They will also have Base Camp Kitchen Staff. The team is being
led by Ken Noguchi. The team is expected to arrive in Kathmandu on 20th August and is
expected to depart Kathmandu for the expedition on 23/24 August. The Spanish Team (Normal
Route) has 5 climbers in it. In addition, the team will have 4/5 High Altitude
Sherpas with them. They will also have Base Camp Kitchen Staff. The team is being led by
Juan Corro. The team is expected to arrive in Kathmandu on 17th August and is expected to
depart Kathmandu for the expedition on 23/24 August.
K2 Update: It was reported to EverestNews.com
that the one Italian made
an attempt to ski down (not from the summit) but we have not confirmed this and have not
heard from Guta...I
Eric Escoffier Update: The weather was very bad again and the
helicopter could not attempt a rescue. No other new information.
EverestNews.com
Autumn 98: Tibet (North side), basically there are two
teams with permits. The French Snowboard Descent and the American Craig Calonica
Expedition. Both of these teams links are on our Autumn 98 Everest Links Page. Craig has
attempted Everest several times, including last year, but has failed to reach the Summit
each time. However, this year he is supported by a very strong Sherpa support team
including Appa Sherpa (nine Summits of Everest), who you will recall from Everest Spring
South Side 98 and Lakpa Sherpa. Craig also has gained significant Everest experience in
the last several years. This team is planning on using the latest in technology. Check out
their new web site for details. The French are also expected to send reports from
Everest. However, this will be the first 8000 meter peak for these French
climbers/snowboarders. They are highly regarded, but have no Everest experience. To our
knowledge there are no clients or anyone being guided on the North Side this Autumn. No
one has ever snowboarded down Everest !
The Canadian Seven Summits Expedition has reportedly reached the
summit of Mt. Elbrus. George told us a few months ago he and his team will be back on
Everest South Side in 1999.
Eric Escoffier: He once reached the summit of Gasherbrum 1 (8068m),
Gasherbrum 2 (8035m), and K2 all within the same 3-4 week period !!! He is also one of the
best technical climbers in the world. Don't give up hope on this guy yet.
Daily News: 8/8/98 Report
First, we would like to thank all those that helped keep Eric's name
out of the press per the families request the last several days. EverestNews.com
would also
like to thank all of you that sent little pieces of information, helped translate messages
in different languages, the climbers that always exceed our expectations with their
efforts to helps others when in need and the various climbers on K2 that has provided such
valuable information. We are still hoping for a happy ending. The weather on Broad Peak
and K2 is very bad, and has been very unstable, as you know if you have been following the
web sites. Eric and Pascale got caught in this unstable weather up high. We can only hope
they have found a way to stay alive until help arrives. Michael Fauquet, an French climber
has been working day and night figuring out a way to save his friends. He and his friends
arranged for a helicopter on Friday, but the weather was just too bad... EverestNews.com
still have not contacted the Spanish or Japanese teams, if anyone has any information on
these teams, if would be much appreciated. People at Broad peak BC are working with
Michael and the French, the climbers on K2 are passing information on, but the more hands
in a time like this the better. Let all pray for the best.. As you read below the
helicopter should fly tomorrow morning, the Saturday, 8th of August.
EverestNews.com
Autumn 98 updates will continue soon. Our Fran and Sergi
summary has been delayed due to new information.
NEWSFLASH UPDATE: 8/7/98 4:10 PM EST US
Friday, 7th august 1998 We don't have any news from Eric Escoffier
and his team mate, Pascale Bessieres. The two mountaineers were trying the ascent of the
Broad Peak (8 047m) in Pakistan, by the normal route. At 7 600 m, during the summit
attempt, the 28th of July, a member of the group, Jean-François Lassalle, decided to go
back. Eric Escoffier and Pascale Bessieres were going for the summit. About 7:00 pm,
Jean-François Lassalle saw them installing a bivouac in a snow hole at the col of Broad
Peak (7 800 m). The next day, 29th of July, about 10:30 am, two climbers from Poland
on their way to the summit saw them just above the col, on the summit ridge. About 11:30
am, Piotr Putztelnik climbed up to the same place to check where the two French was.
According to him, the weather conditions were very cold and windy. Putztelnik could see
the summit ridge very well but didn't see Eric and Pascale. So he went down to the Camp 3
where Jean-François Lassalle were waiting. Because of the bad weather conditions, all the
climbers left the Camp 3 by the morning of the 30th of July. They left some tents and some
food. Since then, neither Eric Escoffier nor Pascale Bessieres came back to the Base Camp
and didn't reach any intermediate camp. An helicopter should fly tomorrow morning, the
Saturday, 8th of August. Source :Michel Fauquet
This summaries most of the information EverestNews.com
presently has.
Eric Escoffier for those of you that don't know, is unquestionably one of the best
climbers in the world. He has proven himself at High Altitude reaching the summit of peaks
such as K2 and as a technical climber. One of the very best. Let's all keep up the work.
EverestNews.com
Daily News: 8/7/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98 ! Soon !
K2 Update: Today (Thursday 6th) Waldemar arrived back at Base
Camp and reported more details about the bad weather they faced yesterday (Wednesday
5th) above 7000m. Climbers had just passed the barrier of 7500m, above Camp 3, when wind -
which was already strong - became insupportable. Gusts of wind more than 100 km/hour threw
climbers against the snow that already covered then until the knees. suddenly visibility
fell down to barely 5 meters. at 3 p.m. dark clouds surrounded the climbers and they
started going down (the group was Waldemar from Brazil, Abele, Adriano and Arnaud from
Italy and Pepe from Spain). At 7200m they passed near the Turkish team that had improvised
a camp at that altitude. Waldemar tried to shout at them to go down but in the middle of
the storm they couldn't hear him, or even see him, although the distance between them were
less than 3 meters. Today - Thursday - Turkish climbers arrived back down in base camp
with frostbitten hands. We still don't know how far is the gravity of it. Waldemar reports
that Turkish climbers gave up climbing this season and Irish team is thinking about going
back. Some climbers from Italian team are also giving up. Climbers Adriano, Marco and
Alessandro must go back to their jobs and will flight back to Italy next 10th.
Remember that Italian and Waldemar's permit goes only until August 25th. Source: guta
nascimento
Daily News: 8/6/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98 ! Climbing the North Side of Everest : A French
Team has 3 climbers Jerome Ruby, Dede Rhem, and Sam Beaugey. This is the Everest Snowboard
Expedition. They plan to Summit and then snowboard down the Hornbein Couloir ! We believe
one of them plans on skiing down, but will need to check on that... Their web site (Sport)
is listed on EverestNews.com 98 Autumn Everest Expedition Page.
K2 Update: Today (Wednesday 5th) Waldemar - who was on the way up to
Camp 3 to try to Summit on Friday 7th - had to go down back to Camp 1 because of bad
weather: rainstorm and winds of more than 100km/hour (kilometers per hour). He reached
Camp 3. Waldemar was trying to leave Camp 3 to Camp 4 (at 8.050m) but wind was so
ferocious that he couldn't stay up. Therefore, attempts to Summit won't be done this
Friday. Source: guta nascimento.
Broad Peak: A Spanish and Japanese team has arrived. If anyone has
ANY information on these expeditions please pass it on ASAP to everestnews2004@adelphia.net . Thank You
EverestNews.com, See NEWSFLASH below
David Lim: David moved out of intensive care early last week and has
been breathing on his own since last weekend. The hospital said that as he still needs
special care, he is in an isolation room but his doctors say that he is "doing as
well as can be expected for a person who is suffering from a serious case of Guillain
Barre". His doctors now say that David never lost total use of his limbs. His
strongest limbs are now his right leg and left arm. He can straighten both legs and flex
both elbows "very well". His family does not want to be interviewed until he is
discharged from hospital. It is not known when he will be fit enough to go home. His
doctors say that recovery for such patients is usually a long process. Source : Allison
Lim
CLIMBERS LOST ON BROAD PEAK , NEED ASSISTANCE ASAP ! There
are two French climbers lost on Broad Peak. EverestNews.com is being told the Polish team,
which had one injured climber, but no deaths, have left the mountain. There does not
appear to be any communication with Broad peak, the worst is feared, but not confirmed in
any way !!! As a good friend of ours pointed out, Remember that people came off K2 after
12 days ! But they need help ! If you know anyone near Broad Peak, please encourage them
to send someone over. EverestNews.com has been lead to believe that the families have been
told. These are experienced climbers, with the experience to live out a storm. One of them
has survived horrible conditions before. They need help, and appear to be the only team
left on the mountain.
Assistance possibly could be provided by contacting the
Pakistan officials, and requesting assistance for these climbers. Please do not contact
the press nor the families.
Daily News: 8/5/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98 ! Climbing the South Side of Everest : A Japanese
Team (Normal Route) has 6 climbers including a TV team. In addition, the team will have 8
High Altitude Sherpas (Asian-Trekking Again) with them. They will also have a Base Camp
Kitchen Staff. The team is being led by Ken Nukuchi. The team is expected to arrive in
Kathmandu on 20th August and is expected to depart Kathmandu for the expedition on 23/24
August.
Guy Cotter Update: Two Updates from Guy
Cotter who is leading an expedition for Adventure Consultants to attempt the
summit of Muztagh Ata in western China.
K2 Update: Summit attempts are underway !!! On Tuesday (4th) wind
diminished a little bit but clouds are still there in the upper part of K2. Waldemar and
Italians are still on their way up and will spend the night at Camp 2 (6.700m). Source:
guta nascimento. Some has asked why EverestNews.com is not reporting more about Heidi.
Heidi arrived at Base camp later than the other teams and therefore has not had a great
deal of contact with Guta's source Waldemar. Also Heidi's web site is excellent, therefore
you can read her information in details on her site which is on our K2 links page.
Broad Peak: EverestNews.com has spent a huge amount of time on this
issue the last two days. The news is not good. However, there is still hope that the
missing climbers will be found. Many worried. Our prayers are with them. Let's all hope
for the best. If anyone has contacts or information please pass it along...
Autumn Everest 98 ! Climbing the North Side of Everest : American
Craig Calonica, his NEW web site for Everest 98 has been added to our Everest 98 Autumn, 99 Everest Links. Craig attempted Everest in 97
also. He is planning on skiing down !
K2 Update: Monday (3rd) climbers Abele, Adriano, Arnaud and
Waldemar went up to Camp 1. They rested for a few days in base camp after establishing
Camp 3 and now are on their way up to attempt the Summit ! Climbers expect full moon
(Friday 7th) will bring a window that will allow safe attempts !!! Source: guta nascimento
Broad Peak: Many are asking questions about climbers on Broad peak.
If you read the K2 links :Irish and Italian sites, you will know
basically what we do right now. EverestNews.com has spent considerable time on this issue the
last two days, but NO confirmed information at this time. Many worried. Our prayers
are with them, let's all hope for the best.
Daily News: 8/3/98 Report
Autumn Everest 98 ! Climbing the South Side (Normal route) of Everest
: A Spanish Team has 5 climbers in it. In addition, the team will have 4/5 High Altitude
Sherpas (Asian-Trekking) with them. They will also have Base Camp Kitchen Staff. The
team is being led by Juan Corro. The team is expected to arrive in Kathmandu on 17th
August and is expected to depart Kathmandu for the expedition on 23/24 August.
EverestNews.com has not found a web site yet for this expedition.
Press Release from Nepal:
HIMALAYA EventLine
There has been some decisions in the Ministries of Nepal recently.
The Government has informed the trekking industries that Dolpo, Rolpa, Rukum and
Jagarkot Area (all Far Western Nepal) have been declared closed for Trekking &
Expedition Teams, to enter these areas for the up coming Autumn Season. Even though
Government has not given any clear reasoning here, everybody however believes that the
decision might have been taken in the light of security reasons due to the rising
political situation in the areas.
Trekking Industry of Nepal is already caught off guard in spite of
fact that Nepal is still celebrating Visit Nepal Year and the Government’s
projected target to increase Tourism from the old stagnant levels to half a million
tourists each year now seems to be a mere dream.
Some more free peaks added, but valid till December 1999.
April 16, 1998 Free Peaks till 1999
On the occasion of the Visit Nepal Year 98, His Majesty’s
Government of Nepal has decided to exempt the royalty of the following peaks to carry out
expedition till the end of 1999.
Peak
Height District
Yala
5732 m Rasuwa
Chhukungri 5550 m
Solukhumbu
Gokyori
5450 m "
Ramdrong 4499 m
Lamjung
Drahmo
6855 m Taplejung
Ramchaur 4500 m
"
Ramtang 6601
m "
Tengkoma 6215 m
"
Kangtokla 6294 m
Dolpa
The Liaison Officers will also not apply to these 9 Peaks.
British Medical Association Expedition led by Veteran Expedition
organizer cum Leader Dr. Simon Currin will be attempting Ramtang and Tenkoma with his
first official Expedition to these newly opened and just made free Peaks for the first
time in this autumn of 1998.
The Tibetan climber Cyi Lye has been added to the 98 Everest Summit
page. He reached the Summit on May 24th according to official sources. With his name being
filled in on the Summit Page, only the Chinese climbers names (and numbers) need to be
filled in plus the name of one Sherpa that was on the Japanese TV Asahi Expedition. It is
interesting that Cyi Lye reached the Summit of Everest on the day that Francis
Distefano-Arsentiev reportedly died. EverestNews.com hopes to interview Mr. Lye. If anyone
has more information on him please send it to everestnews2004@adelphia.net
EverestNews.com
has three teams that have agreed to send reports from
Cho Oyu to us per your requests !
Slovak Everest 98 News (Finally): EverestNews.com
has confirmed that
three Slovak Climbers reached the summit of Everest Spring 1998. Peter Hamor (Male) -
Slovak - Reached the Summit on 19th May, Vladimir Zboja (Male) - Slovak - Reached the
Summit on 19th May, Vladimir Plulik (Male) - Slovak - Reached the Summit (without oxygen)
also on 19th May.
EverestNews.com
will begin on Monday highlighting one Autumn Everest 98
Team per day.
