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 August 1999 K2 Reports


K2-  Base K2,  5,100m  Jul 30th,  69th day of the expedition

A beautiful shooting team from National Geographic is here at base-camp, what makes us feel truly a  movie character everyday. They've already interviewed each one of us at least ten times, and each one of the smart interviews leads us to think about the expedition aim, about this immense desire to overcome a real dangerous challenge, but fascinating.

And then, I draw a conclusion the bigger the wish, the nearer we get close of the reality of this dream. And it isn't craziness! Everybody has dreams, but really few ones search the   this dream accomplishment. This is, for me, escape from reality. Because these dreams will never come true. What we do here is exactly the inverse, we face  the reality of this dream, we give direction to our existence, we give direction to these wishes that tie us to life itself, and no to hypothetical delusions. Here we live intensively each second, here our life depends on the consciousness of our acts, here the life is the pure reality, where each of us is here because we feel the blood vibrates powerfully, because a tear heats our face, because our smile brings always hopes. Here we don't wear masks and we aren't actors, here we are just the character of our own existence. And the mountain isn't our stage simply and nor a false scenery where we play our adventure. The mountains raises  our feelings, reveals the true human being in each one of us, with its magnificence reduces us to nothing.

And inside this insignificance we understand the human being's value,  the importance of a friend, and  our weakness in front of nature. In fact, we don't step forward if  that big mountain doesn't permit. In fact we don't go anywhere if we don't believe in ourselves, no dream will come true if we don't search its accomplishment.

Today, I was doing some photos for my sponsor and the National Geographic team shot everything and so they asked me what I was doing "Photos for those who  trust in the  Project K2, it is the minimum  I can do for those whom deposited so much confidence on me".


K2,  Base - K2,   5,100m   Jul. 31st   70th day of the expedition

Brazil, Brazil,  I miss you a lot!!!

It has been 70 days since I left home, far from my country, my family and the person I most love. But the distance makes feel well, makes me want more what I have  and I can be sure of my feelings and my return day will be very nice.

These mountains fascinate me, and I discover that I'm not else than a pilgrim here, full of faith!



K2 -  Base-camp, 5,100m -August 2nd, 72nd day of the expedition

Message written by my Friend Pepe Garces, Project K2's   partner:

"Again I'm on the feet of this big, mountain called Chogori or K2. Less than a year, since I joined Waldemar Niclevicz and other three Italian companions, we overcome the limits of 8 thousand meters, when a strong blizzard pull us down, where we looked for shelter on the inferior camps, obliging us to close the climb to K2 in 1998.

Now, a year later, after climbing Gasherbrum, we've arrived at K2's base-camp where, as it had appeared a plague and most of its inhabitants escaped believing that it was impossible to climb the big mountain, It's true that there weren't so many  and important forces, but it's true that if the little that exists here disappears, rest nothing or almost nothing.

Few days ago, before arriving at K2's base-camp, a Romanian expedition lost one of the six alpinists, the Romanian Mihai Cioroianu, 32, who was hit by a stone on the Abruzzos ram, and then everybody left  the mountain. Afterwards the famous Italian alpinist Hans Kammerlander with his two companions reached the "Bottle Neck" at 8,300m, and they withdrew by the snow depth, giving up definitively. And then, Abele Blanc, our team companion, did the same, knowing the mountains condition by Kammerlander 's report . So, just a 6-Korean expedition and two other alpinists (one Turkish and other American) have decided to stay.

Abele Blanc's giving up, was decisive and negative for us, because being a small group, just three alpinists, when the third part disappears, the team diminishes not only physically but also psychologically. The hopeless union of forces, that are not a lot  here at base-camp, it's not the best way to climb K2, and just Waldemar and I can't face the hard situation that this mountain has shown over 8 thousand meters.

I've already had a very tough experience to be overcome at K2, when in 1995 I lost 3 companions, while other four disappeared forever on the heights of this mountain. I, and other companion survived  to that situation, just after serious freezing on feet  and hand toes, what have resulted in serious amputation. In such case, once more, K2  demands its law against our capacity of decision and caution.

This mountain here, waiting for us, and surely, some day not so long, it will  lean to our power, our technical  skill and  above all to our mind.   It is and it will be"

Pepe Garces


Dear friends:

With those words from my friend Pepe Garces, and with a deep sadness, we  close our attempts to climb K2 this year. Unfortunately we have no other option. There is an immense quantity of snow on the superior parts and  the weather has got worse again, with other blizzards. We believe that there aren't alpinists enough to go ahead with the necessary works, i.e., set up camp 4, at  8,050m both by Tomo Cesen  and by Abruzzos. That is, undoubtedly, the greatest reason for our giving up.   And the Romanian's death Mihai Cioroianu has touched us a lot.

It's very hard for me, but I'm sure I'm taking the right, propitious  and conscious decision. I'd like to remind you that we are at K2, and that K2 is considered the most dangerous and difficult mountain to climb. Just 122 alpinists have reached its summit  with its  8,611m , and this year the death number increased from 53 to 54.

I thank everybody who have followed K2 on-line for the last 72 days, and surely we have learned a lot together. I've received wonderful messages and I hope  I could transmit you a little of the  mountain fascination. I thank also my loyal sponsors, O BOTICARIO, NUTRY, IRIDIUM DO BRASIL and MATTE LEΓO, that have believed in the Project K2, investing much more than money, and revealing a sincere relationship from the beginning to the end.

Here I bend in front of this big mountain, as a sign of respect. Here I thank your confidence. Here I thank God for being alive, full of health and  able to return home (you can't imagine how I'm happy!!!). Here the great dream goes on, a dream to climb K2, that one day I intend to accomplish. Thank you very much for your support. May your spirit reach the heights!


P.S.: I'm very happy to not  return empty-handed , after all, Brazil has conquered Gasherbrum for the first time, the "Light Mountain" with 8,035m, the 14th highest mountain in the world. That's a big Victory!!!


The alpinist, Waldemar Niclevicz, 33, has become the first Brazilian to reach the seven summits of the world - arrive at the highest peak of each continent, among them Everest , with 8,848m considered the highest in the world - has just given up, this Monday,  of  reaching   K2's summit, the second highest mountain in the world and the most dangerous of all  with 8,611m, placed in Pakistan.

No alpinist has got the peak for two years,  which   receives the name of "the Death Mountain".  According to statistics just 122 alpinists could complete the climb and 54 have died trying, a frightening average, a death in two successes.

That's the second time that the Death Mountain defeats Niclevicz. In August , last year, Waldemar Niclevicz got very close to the summit, just 571m far from it, but the 100- per- hour winds and snow up to waist made the alpinist postpone the dream to be the first Brazilian to reach K2's summit.


After 72 days, the expedition led by Waldemar Niclevicz, had two big reasons to close the climb: A member's giving up and again the weather conditions at K2.

The climb was planned  to be accomplished by three alpinists, the Brazilian Waldemar Niclevicz, the Italian Abele Blanc and the Spaniard Pepe Graces. But, after 3 days at K2's base-camp, the Italian alpinist has decided to draw back   "Abele Blanc's giving up was decisive  and negative for us, being a small group, just three alpinists, when a third part disappears, the team becomes too small, not only physically  but also psychologically. Only Waldemar and I are not able to face the tough conditions that that mountain shows over 8 thousand meters" said the Spaniard Pepe Garces, who, in 1995 lost 3 friends and saw other 4 died on the highest part of the mountain, trying to climb K2.

"Unfortunately we have no other option. There is an immense quantity of snow on the superior altitudes that reached up to the waist and it's an insurmountable barrier. At seven thousand meters there is an enormous serac (a snow wall) which can fall at any moment. The weather has got worse, and we believe that there aren't enough alpinists to go on doing the  necessary work. These are the main reasons for our giving up, and  Romanian Mihai Cioroianu's death last week has touched us a lot" explained Waldemar Niclevicz.

The dream to conquer K2 was postponed again "Once more I was obliged to respect such forces endlessly  more powerful than mine. K2 is on a rage moment, but I know that I can dare again. One day I'll return to K2  in order to accomplish the great dream of taking  our green and yellow flag to the top of that big mountain ,considered the most dangerous in the world"   said Waldemar Niclevicz.

Expedition Details

To return to K2 this year, Waldemar Niclevicz spent a long   acclimatization and training time. In May, in Bolivia, Niclevicz climbed 3 mountains higher than 5 thousand - Tarija (5,060m), Pequeno Apamayo (5,370m) and Condoriri (5,648m). Still, before starting climbing K2, on the Himalayans Cordillera in Jun and Jul., Niclevicz with other  expedition companions (the Italians Abele Blanc and Christian Kuntner and the Spaniard Pepe Garces and the Australian Andrew Lock)   arrived at 7,100m of altitude at Hidden Peak and climbed Gasherbrum with 8,035 m - one of the fourteenth mountains  world higher than 8 thousand meters in the world.

Further details about the expedition can be found on the Alpinist's site www.sagarmatha.com.br

The Project has been possible thanks to Sponsorship of O BOTICΑRIO, NUTRIMENTAL, MATTE LEΓO and IRIDIUM DO BRASIL. These companies are from the   State of Paranα. Waldemar Niclevicz has received the support of the Minister of Sports Mr. Rafael Greca.

Leila Kaltman Press Officer

And K2 1999 comes to an end...

K2 Summits to Date

K2 1999: 1999 K2News with Daily Reports from K2 ! (Introduction and June Reports)

July 1999 Reports from K2

August 1999 Reports from K2 (the end for 1999)

The Mountaineering Must Haves


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