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28th day of the Brazilian Expedition to the Top of the World.
Base Camp (5,400m). The Korean Expedition arrives to Base camp.

At 4 o'clock in the morning I open my eyes inside my sleeping bag.  I see the roof of the tent, all dark and with no snow falling.  At least it is not snowing, I think.  But it was not cold, or it was not as cold as it should.  I search my Tissot and I read the temperature, +2°C.

Then I have to go to the bathroom, I get out of my sleeping bag, swiftly getting my clothes on.  I knock the roof of the tent, but I don't hear the snow falling.  Then I open the zipper of the door and I face the outside thermometer, it is only -3°C.  What a shame, I thought, it could be at least some 7 or 8 negative degrees, because cold temperature is a sign of good weather.

I run to our toilet, kicking the stones covered with a fine blanket of snow.  Our toilet is a narrow and tall tent, where you can be standing up.  Inside there is a plastic barrel, and there, placing our feet on two stones and crouching we do our business.  When full, a clerk of the SPCC (Sagarmatha Park Control Committee), who has the nickname of "shit man",  takes the full barrel close to Lobuche (4,900m), where he deposits it all in a dry pit.  But before, shit man weighs our barrel and we pay 1 dollar for every kilo of waste.   Funny, but it works, the Base Camp is apparently clean.  In the past, everybody did their business wherever they choose, imagine how it was.

I exit the toilet relieved, I go by the kitchen and wake up Kurman, our cook.  I grab one of our canvas chairs and I sit outside.  The night is slowly loosing its darkness, Kurman serves me a mug of hot tea and I stay watching the clouds crawling over the mountains.  It doesn't take much to start snowing, slowly.

The alarm clock rings, 5 in the morning.  Paulo comes quick to the dinner, a big tent, with campaign table and chairs, that we also use as a storage room.  We start talking about the snow fall that gets more intense.  The Alir, Bonga and Irivan arrive.  Lapka, our kitchen assistant, serves us coffee, granola and milk, fried eggs with toasts.

The snow flakes get bigger. The morning turns white and freezing.  We, with our backpacks on, are frustrated. We decide to stay in the dinning tent, waiting for the blizzard to diminish. At 8 in the morning we end our first strong match (card game), but the blizzard doesn't end, and it goes like that until two in the afternoon. What a shame, we wanted to climb to install Camp 1.

And, before I forget, the fourth expedition arrived to Base, a Korean expedition, leaded by Se Jung Lee, and formed by 10 climbers, 7 for Lhotse and 3 for Everest, all of them youths from Kun Ju Education University at Seoul.

That's all for me, we hope the weather helps us tomorrow!


Waldemar Niclevicz Trango Tower



Translated from Portuguese by Jorge Rivera

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