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 BRAZILIAN EVEREST LHOTSE EXPEDITION is sponsored by

O BOTICΑRIO, VOLKSWAGEN and PETROBRΑS

30th day of the Brazilian Expedition to the Top of the World.
Camp 1 (6,050 - 6,150 m). The Brazilian Expedition is the first to install Camp 1

A day full of action!  The SPCC came early to start working and we helped them.  It was incredible. To link 3 or 4 aluminum ladders, to win over the void of the gigantic crevasses of 4 to 5 meters wide, scarily deep, maybe more than 40 meters.

Also a day of much happiness to the team, because we settled Camp 1 in its definitive location.  It's a big snowy plateau at 6,150m of altitude, which we don't trust much because we are surrounded by big crevasses.

We are close to the west face of Everest, which is constantly swept by avalanches.  The Khumbu glacier, after all, never inspired any trust to climbers.  The movements of this mass of ice are constant and new crevasses open and close each day.

Unfortunately we had a problem with 1 of our 3 high altitude carriers.  In one of the vertical trails, while doing a rappel, the aluminum stake that was fixed in the ice fell loose.  Our loaded Sherpa, named Mingma, fell and his leg got stuck in a piece of ice.  The violence of the shock caused a serious torsion in his ankle.

We were, of course, very worried for him, and immediately a team formed by our Sherpas plus the Sherpas of one of the Japanese expeditions, gave the first aids and started to descend the wounded.  We'd have liked to go along with them, but we decided to continue.

We wanted to help, but it was really not necessary.  The solidarity among Sherpas is great, so we would just go along with them with nothing to do.  We continued and equipped Camp 1, to spend one more night above 6,000m.  That way we would improve our acclimatization to thin air.

I am a bit worried about days passing by, the delay in the Ice Fall by the SPCC has delayed our climbing schedule in one week.  We know it's not their fault, in fact it is the mountain who always dictates the rules of the game.

Time doesn't stop and we have to give our maximum effort to achieve our objective.  Irivan, Bonga, Mute, Mafia and me, would like to tell everybody that we are very well.  Our enthusiasm to put the Brazilian flag on top of the world is every day bigger.

I send two pictures for you to see a little better the area of Camp 1.

Namaste!

Waldemar Niclevicz Trango Tower

BRAZILIAN EVEREST LHOTSE EXPEDITION is sponsored by O BOTICΑRIO, VOLKSWAGEN and PETROBRΑS

Dispatches

Translated from Portuguese by Jorge Rivera

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