EVEREST LHOTSE EXPEDITION is sponsored by
O BOTICΑRIO, VOLKSWAGEN and PETROBRΑS
32nd day of the Brazilian Expedition to the Top of the
Base Camp (5,400m). Tooth ache, Marcelo Bonga goes
back to Katmandu.
Our rest day
ended up being a busy day.
At 5 in the
morning we were already awake, worried for our friend
Bonga, who could not sleep because of a severe tooth
ache. The pain had started yesterday, after the
beginning of our descent from Camp 1, and became
unbearable. After we got to Base, we consulted my
brother Roque, who is a dentist, via satellite phone.
Because of the symptoms, after taking anesthetics and
anti-inflammatory, Bonga had to go as soon as possible
to the nearest dentist, to be properly treated,
because he probably needs a root canal in one of his
The cases of
tooth ache in the high mountain are rare, because with
altitude, the atmospheric pressure diminishes and,
since our blood pressure remains the same at the
beginning, it is like we were suffering of high blood
pressure. With time, our blood pressure finds an
equilibrium with the atmospheric pressure, i. e., it
drops a little. That is one of our organism's
resources to adapt to thin air and one of the phases
in the process we call acclimatization. But,
unfortunately someone with a tooth problem, like a
little swelling, or the simple fact to reach high
altitudes, could make this problem worse.
Unfortunately this is what happened to Bonga, who left
early today from Base and is going as fast as possible
to Katmandu, where he is going to be treated. He will
come back to Everest in a hurry to continue climbing.
We send him our support.
looked calm here at Base, we got a message from the
Japanese by radio, saying that the location of Camp 1
had been reached by an avalanche and that one of our
three tents had been pushed some 50 meters, along with
one of their tents. Luckily nobody was hurt, but I
was upset with myself, because I had the feeling that
the place was not safe, but anyway I was convinced by
the SPCC personnel that it was a good location for our
In a way, it is
practically impossible to find a safe place to camp
above the Ice Fall, between 6,000 and 6,300 meters
high. There are gigantic crevasses everywhere, making
the terrain very unstable. And, so close to Everest
and Nuptse hillsides, the risk of avalanches is
constant. Anyway, not using Camp 1 and jumping
directly to Camp 2 (6,500m) is what we plan to do now.
Look at today's
pictures, the camp we installed in the center of the
valley, at 6,050m, totally safe from avalanches.
Notice to the right the hillside of Nuptse, and also
a threatening avalanche cone.
LHOTSE EXPEDITION is sponsored by O BOTICΑRIO,
VOLKSWAGEN and PETROBRΑS
Portuguese by Jorge Rivera