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 BRAZILIAN EVEREST LHOTSE EXPEDITION is sponsored by

O BOTICΑRIO, VOLKSWAGEN and PETROBRΑS

37th day of the Brazilian Expedition to the Top of the World.
Camp 2 (6,500m). Second attack to Lhotse's flank.

Thursday 13, 06:00 h. in the morning, 13 degrees Celsius, what a nice way to say good morning at 6,500m of altitude.  A totally blue sky and no wind.

And here we go, following the footsteps we left yesterday, towards the flank of Lhotse.  Nobody but Alir, Irivan and me in the superior part of the mountain.  What a sense of liberty, what satisfaction, the immensity of Everest and Lhotse just for us.

On our backs, 150 meters of lines and 10 ice stakes, all the material we had available.  After one and a half hour, we got the rimaya, at the base of Lhotse's flank and our T Touch altimeter read 6,850m of altitude.  (Rimaya or Marginal Crevasse is a big crevasse that almost always exists in the base of a big wall, as in the case of Lhotse).

While guiding our first stretch, our first scary moment happened: the ice bridge I choose to cross the rimaya broke, Irivan managed fix his line and mine fell.  ALL RIGHT!  I moved to the right, slipping between splinters of ice, but I could climb on Lhotse's flank.  The passage was not vertical any more and now it was a 45 degree slope.  I stretched the line, the ice was still hard and I didn't have any crampon.  We asked our Sherpas insistently to bring them from Camp 1, but we have none for now.

In fact, we did not expect hard ice at the bottom of the wall, I had no other choice but to descend the 50 meters I've climbed.  We'll come back tomorrow to climb with a lot of lines, a lot of stakes and, of course, a lot of crampons.

Paulo Mαfia, from Base Camp:

We had no access to Camp 1 today, because a 3 ladder bridge was swallowed by a crevasse in the Ice Fall.

Jose Αlvaro came to Base Camp along with his Sherpas and later came Mαrcia with two robust Italians.  They are fine and they contacted the team on the wall by radio.

Namaste!

Waldemar Niclevicz Trango Tower

BRAZILIAN EVEREST LHOTSE EXPEDITION is sponsored by O BOTICΑRIO, VOLKSWAGEN and PETROBRΑS

Dispatches

Translated from Portuguese by Jorge Rivera

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