EVEREST LHOTSE EXPEDITION is sponsored by
O BOTICΑRIO, VOLKSWAGEN and PETROBRΑS
37th day of the Brazilian Expedition to the Top of the
Camp 2 (6,500m). Second attack to Lhotse's flank.
06:00 h. in the morning, 13 degrees Celsius, what a
nice way to say good morning at 6,500m of altitude. A
totally blue sky and no wind.
And here we go,
following the footsteps we left yesterday, towards the
flank of Lhotse. Nobody but Alir, Irivan and me in
the superior part of the mountain. What a sense of
liberty, what satisfaction, the immensity of Everest
and Lhotse just for us.
On our backs, 150
meters of lines and 10 ice stakes, all the material we
had available. After one and a half hour, we got the
rimaya, at the base of Lhotse's flank and our T Touch
altimeter read 6,850m of altitude. (Rimaya or
Marginal Crevasse is a big crevasse that almost always
exists in the base of a big wall, as in the case of
While guiding our
first stretch, our first scary moment happened: the
ice bridge I choose to cross the rimaya broke, Irivan
managed fix his line and mine fell. ALL RIGHT! I
moved to the right, slipping between splinters of ice,
but I could climb on Lhotse's flank. The passage was
not vertical any more and now it was a 45 degree
slope. I stretched the line, the ice was still hard
and I didn't have any crampon. We asked our Sherpas
insistently to bring them from Camp 1, but we have
none for now.
In fact, we did
not expect hard ice at the bottom of the wall, I had
no other choice but to descend the 50 meters I've
climbed. We'll come back tomorrow to climb with a lot
of lines, a lot of stakes and, of course, a lot of
Paulo Mαfia, from Base Camp:
We had no access
to Camp 1 today, because a 3 ladder bridge was
swallowed by a crevasse in the Ice Fall.
Jose Αlvaro came
to Base Camp along with his Sherpas and later came
Mαrcia with two robust Italians. They are fine and
they contacted the team on the wall by radio.
LHOTSE EXPEDITION is sponsored by O BOTICΑRIO,
VOLKSWAGEN and PETROBRΑS
Portuguese by Jorge Rivera