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Camp & Hike Cycle Climb Paddle Ski Snowboard Snowshoe Flyfish Trailrunning Travel Men's Women's Kid's Clearance Warehouse

BRAZILIAN EVEREST LHOTSE EXPEDITION is sponsored by

O BOTICΑRIO, VOLKSWAGEN and PETROBRΑS

NEWSFLASH: 56th day of the Brazilian Expedition to the Top of the World. Camp 3 (7,300m) - Camp 4 (8,000m) Towards the Top of the World! We left Camp 3 at 06h00, towards Camp 4. With a temperature of -16Ί C., we started a hard climb with our backpacks weighing around 20 Kg. We carried clothes, food, photo equipment, water and the oxygen bottles. In the first 100 meters, our teammate Marcelo Bonga showed symptoms of frostbite in his limbs, and lack of air. Without hesitating, he started to use the oxygen he was carrying, with the hope to reverse the symptoms. In the following 100 meters he felt needles in his limbs and fingers and decided to go back to Base Camp for his own good. We continued climbing, missing our teammate of so many days of the expedition, with a very slow progress. The thin air and the loose snow made us feel worn in small distances. After 12 hours of a weary climb, we reached the South Col, the location of Camp 4 (8,000m). We hoped we could do this distance in 6 hours, to have more time to rest. We plan to start the Everest summit attack at 21h00 local, 12h00 Brazil time. We count with the support of the Brazilian people.

23h00 local time - 14h50 (Brazil) It is very windy, with speeds of 30 to 40 Km/h, starry sky. Irivan and me have the hope of putting the Brazilian Flag on Top of the World. Sadly Marcelo Santos has frostbite problems and Alir Wellner has stomach problems and they are not going to go with us. Bonga used oxygen at 7,500m and Alir at 7,750m. No mountaineer has climbed this season and the path is not open. While Irivan and me arrived here to the South Col without using oxygen, we opted to use this valuable resource. It is important to understand that from 7,500m we enter the "Death Zone" or the "Vertical Limit", which means our cells are not multiplying any more. That's the reason why only 81 mountaineers who climbed Everest, out of a total of more than 1200, claim to have climbed without supplemental oxygen. I, particularly, came with that idea on the third attack to Everest, but because of the adverse conditions mentioned, I don't want to put in risk this important victory to Brazilian climbing. Even with supplemental oxygen we are sure that it's going to be difficult...

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BRAZILIAN EVEREST LHOTSE EXPEDITION is sponsored by O BOTICΑRIO, VOLKSWAGEN and PETROBRΑS

Dispatches

Translated from Portuguese by Jorge Rivera

 

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