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 Broad Peak 2001 Expeditions and News

Broad Peak

Broad Peak 2001 Expeditions:

1.) [#60]  Qgir - Broad Peak - K2 Himalaya 8000 expedition 2001

Mr. Josef Simunek, Czech republic, Broad Peak 8047m

Full Reports on EverestNews.com! see here

2.) [#45] USA Alaska Broad Peak Expedition 2001; Paul Barry leader USA coming on 6/15/2001 members 7

2001 Alaska USA Broad Peak Expedition News and reports

3.) [#33b] FOCUS WORLD EXPEDITIONS: Broad Peak. Two teams will operate here. One Greek team of 6, led by expert Costas Baxevanis (summiter of Shishapangma and Cho Oyu, plus several attempts of Everest, Broad Peak and others) and another one of mixed climbers, including Oskar Piazza and Angelo Giovanetti (Shisha, Cho Oyu, GI and GII, Trango, attempts to Manaslu, Nanga and Everest in their records) and the expert Spanish Carlos Soria. They will attempt the normal route.

Italian Focus International Broad Peak expedition Mr. Manuel Massimo Lugli, Italy  Broad Peak Starting 6/10/01 members 12

4.) [#26] Argentinean Broad Peak Expedition Mr. Fernando Grajales, Argentina. Broad Peak 9 Climbers

The two members Anibal Maturano Arra and Mauricio Leonardo made the rocky summit (8035 meters) [an antesummit] on July 20 at 3:00 am. The seven members expedition led by Fernando Grajales, we made two attempt before on 9 and 10 July but failed due to bad weather. We are happy to back alive and hoist our country flag on the top, this was our first ascent in Karakoram.. The other members were Gerardo Mauricio Cas, Ulises Javier Corvala, Hector Miguel Lotfi, and Federico Jorge Indovi, all the members reach 7800 meters. There are still five expedition on Broad Peak right now American, French, Bulgarians and Estonians.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 8/2/2001: Hello! My name is Fernando Grajales and I'm member of the Argentinean expedition to Broad Peak. After 3 summit attempts, on July 20 2 members reached the rocky summit (8035 meters) [an antesummit] and returned safe to camp 3 at 7000m. Now we are in Islamabad waiting for our flight back home. We hope you are interested in this news, Thanks. Best regards. Fernando Grajales 

Argentinean Broad Peak Expedition hoist their country flag

5.) [#28] Bulgarian Broad Peak Expedition Mr. Nikolay Mihaylov Petkov Bulgaria 15 members Starts 6/1/2001

Newsflash 7/22/2001 Yesterday Gospodin Dinev from Bulgarian Broad Peak Expedition led by Nikolay Petkov reached Broad Peak - Rocky Summit (8035 meters) [an antesummit] via normal route at 11:35 pm. He had descended safety to Camp 3 (7100 m).

Newsflash 7/23/2001 Petko Totev and Stanimir Zhelyazkov from Bulgarian expedition summited today Broad Peak Main (8047 meters) at 11:30 pm. [The true summit.]

Peter Atanasov, Editor of Bulgarian mountain journal "Na Raba", See www.nrbbg.com Speaker of the Federation of the Bulgarian Alpine Clubs, See www.bac.netbg.com Member of the Expedition Commission of the UIAA

6.) [#57]  Pak - China Friendship Broad Peak Expedition, aka Tibetan Mountaineering Association: This is the team that is planning to climb all 14 8000 meter peaks. See the 8000 Meter peak page to see what mountains these climbers have left to complete. They will climb from the Pakistan side. Source: Maohai Huang

Mr. Sangzhu Leader from China Tibet Mountaineering Association,

Broad Peak 8047m, coming on 6/17/01, members 12

Update 6/20/2001: Sources report to EverestNews.com that on the evening of 6/19 the team leader of the Pak-China Broad Peak expedition, SangZhu, told from the BC: after the team arrived at the BC on 6/12 the weather has not been good. The team members overcame difficulties to build camp, and prepare the route. Starting from the 18th the weather started to turn better, and became clear. The team has started to move to the ABC. Currently the team members have good spirit and physical condition.

Update 7/3/2001: Pak - China Friendship Broad Peak Expedition, aka Tibetan Mountaineering Association: 

Chinese Sources report to EverestNews.com, "about the Pakistan-china broad peak expedition... 7/1 evening 9:15 Sang Zhu (team leader) reported : the team split into two assault groups. Group A consists of Renna, Bianba Tashi, Tsering Dorje (TMA) and Rema Dola (Pakistan). They summited at 15:15 on 6/30. Group B has Jiabu, Luotse, Tashi Tsering, Bianba Dunzhu, Sangpu Dunzhu (TMA), and Kubang (Pakistan). They summited at 12:00 noon time on 7/1. (the above names are loosely translated from Chinese).

They made 3 camps: c1 at 5880m, C2 at 6500m, C3 at 7300m. C3 is also the assault camp. It took group A 13 hours and group B 12 hours, respectively, to summit from the assault camp. 

By the time of this report, group A has come back to BC. Group B has come down to C2. They would rest for two days at the BC then send a small team to the BC area of K2, as a preparation for next the year's K2 climb. The team planned to leave the BC on the 8th to the 9th.

Update 7/6/2001: Good news from the mountains. Pakistan China Friendship Expedition led by Tsering Dorji reached the Summit. Pakistan China Friendship Broad Peak Expedition let by Sam Druk made the successfully scaled the peak early morning yesterday. The 14 member expedition had reached base camp by mid-July. 12 members of the expedition are from Tibet Mountaineering Association and 2 members are from Pakistan Alpine Club. This expedition was arranged to celebrate the Golden Jubilee of establishment of Pakistan China diplomatic relations. At the beginning the bad weather did not allow them to move further from the base camp. After a long wait, luckily the weather was cleared and them made their attempt and climb the peak. The expedition was divided into two summit teams. 

The members of first summit team are Tsering Dorji leader, Renna Benda Trashi (China) and Rehmatullah Qureshi (Pakistan) reached the summit after a 10 hours hard walk in Alpine style from camp III at 7, 300 meters. While the second summit comprising Akebu, Byabu, Zaxi Ciren, Bubudunzhu, Bianbadynzhu (China) and Qurban (Pakistan)  reached the summit on July 1. The first summit team was back to base camp on July 1, evening. [Note there are more on this expedition below, where our Chinese contact translate the names]. Source: Essar Karim

Update 7/20/2001: Pak China Broad Peak expedition return here in capital was welcome by Alpine Club of Pakistan and Chinese embassy. Ten in all made the summit in the groups of two with first group making the summit on June 30 at 12:15 pm and second group following the steps the next day at on July 1 at 9:00 am. The two Pakistani who made the summit are Rehmatullah Qureshi and Qurban Muhammad. The Chinese Summiteers were Tshering Dorje (climbed 11 8000 meters peaks), Rena (climbed 11 8000 meters peaks), Bianda Zaxi (climbed 11 8000 meters peaks), Lho Tse (climbed 10 8000 meters peak), Gyabu (climbed 9 8000 meters peak) and Drashi Tsering, Phubu Thundrup, and Ban Ba Thundrup (1 8000 meters peak).

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Update 8/9/2001: We have learned from very reliable sources that most of the expeditions that summited on Broad Peak early this season including Chinese, Pakistani, and Estonian and many others might not have reached the true summit which is 8047 meters. Our source tell us that on the Rocky summit, which is 8030 meters, they saw flags and foot prints of many expeditions. But on the true summit, which is one hour further up and they did not see any flags or foot prints there.

It is a simple question, did you really climb Broad Peak this year, or did you reach the Rocky (false) summit.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

Note: The Bulgarians and others have been talking to us about this issue for some time now. Stay tuned. This is a very important issue for the Chinese who are trying to complete the 14 8000 meter Summits, as the lower "summit" does not count in the 14. Records are kept on the Rocky Summit of Broad Peak like the Central Summit of Shishapangma, but of course it is not the Top...

We should add, just because other expeditions say climbers did not reach the true summit, this does not mean the climbers did not. Climbers many times come to EverestNews.com stating that others have falsely reported Summits, approximately 75% of the time we find the climbers have Summitted. Look for Broad Peak 2001 to take a long time to sort out as many have STRONG opinions here.  EverestNews.com 8/8/2001 

7.) [#46] Switzerland Cobler and Partner Broad Peak Expedition

Swiss Broad Peak expedition leave for Skardu today, Five members Swiss team led by Mr. Kraaz Marcel and accompanied by Rainalter Peter, Robin Barbara, Waelle Charles and Partner. Kobler successfully scaled Gasherbrum II last year and this is his second visit to Pakistan.

Update 7/24/2001: Swiss Broad Peak expedition led by Krazz Marcel is back in Pindi unsuccessful. We were the first to reach the base camp and did the initial hard work but luck never favored us... Chinese and Pakistan joint expedition reach the top by using the ropes fixed by us a day earlier on July 1 and on July 2 when we plan to attack deep snow and bad weather making us to reconsider our decision for further climbing.. Krazz Marcel is now planning for Nepal next year however Karl Kobler will be coming again to Pakistan for K2 in year 2002. 

There are about nine expedition at the Broad Peak base camp which includes two American, one each from Argentina, Estonia, Bulgaria and Italy and all are sitting besides the three remaining teams for the break in weather... 

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

8.) World Summits Broad Peak Expedition

Mark Lewis (Leader): Mark has been climbing for the past decade. He was introduced to climbing in the Alps in 1992 and in 1995 he first visited Nepal and summitted Mera Peak, the highest 'trekking peak' in the Himalayas. In 1996 he attempted the six North Faces in the Alps, succeeding on the Matterhorn, Eiger, Dru and the Grandes Jorasse.  In 1996 he set-up Intercontinental Expeditions, organizing and leading expeditions worldwide. He has led successful expeditions to the Andes, Tanzania, the Caucasus, the Himalayas, New Zealand, and Australia and in 1997 he was the first Welshman to climb Mount Vinson in Antarctica. In the same year he climbed to the South Col on Mount Everest and successfully led an ascent of Ama Dablam in the Himalayas.Mark filmed these expeditions and a documentary about them was broadcast on UK network TV. 

Michael Jackson: Michael has been involved in extreme sports for the last ten years. He is a qualified Rescue Diver and his adventures have  ranged from scuba diving and shark hunting throughout the world to sky diving from 14,500 feet over the Australian Outback. His main passion however is mountaineering. He climbs regularly, both summer and winter, in the Scottish Highlands and trains in the Alps. 

9.) [#63] French Broad Peak Expedition

Mr. Nicolas Sieger Broad Peak Coming on 10-7-01

Member 10 

Update 7/12/2001: French Broad Peak expedition leave for Skardu on 11 July. The expedition is led by Mr. Nicolas Sieger with 4 French Jean Claude Stalla, Saunier Alain, Fabien Antolinos, and Thierry Pollet and two climbers, Micheal Jackson and Mark Lewis from World Summits Expeditions.

Update 8/21/2001: A rescue was made yesterday for Mr. Nicolas Sieger leader of French Broad Peak Expedition 2001 who can not walk due to some foot problem, more details are yet awaited. It is not yet known that they expedition made the summit or not. This is the last expedition trying to make their luck on Broad Peak. The rest of the team is also coming down via Gondogoro Pass and will be in Skardu town by day after tomorrow.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333  http://www.jasminetours.com

10.) [#66] Estonian Broad Peak Expedition

Mr. Toivo Sarmet, Estonia

Broad Peak Coming on 17-6-01 Members 07

Update 6/22/2001: Estonian Broad Peak Expedition leave for Skardu. This is the first Estonian Broad Peak Expedition led by Mr. Toivo Sarmet. This is their second 8000 meter peak and in year 2003 they want to climb Everest. The other members are Raivo Plumer, Margus Proos, Tarmo Riga, Andrus Oevel.

Update 8/14/2001: Dear Asghar Ali Porik, I am a member of Estonian Broad Peak expedition 2001 and would like to inform you of our summit day details.

We started out 23rd of July (5 +1 climbers (high-altitude porter Mr. Meharban Shah hired by our team)) from camp III together with Bulgarians (6 men, supposedly) 10 min after midnight. Mr. Shah departed an hour or so later. Most of the leading through deep snows to the col was done by two of our members and one Bulgarian who later turned back feeling not good. Meharban Shah caught up all climbers on the way and passed leading three men about 200 meters below col. Above col two Bulgarians (Petko Totev and Stanimir ..) were going up first followed by me and less than half an our later Mr. Raivo Plumer from our team. Also Margus Proos and our leader Toivo Sarmet continued up. Soon I met descending Meharban (about 9 AM) demonstrating banner of cloth, probably taken from Rocky Summit (8030 m) as the evidence of conquer. I reached the Rocky Summit 10:40 AM shortly after two Bulgarians and was followed by my teammate Raivo Plumer little later. As we took our time there to make photos and have a rest weather started to change to the worse. Bulgarians had set them out for Main Summit after 11:00 AM (which I believe, they reached) and we followed them about half an hour later. As we had proceeded few hundred meters towards the Main Summit, clouds covered the ridge and strong gusts hit the summit. I and Raivo decided to turn back to be on the safer side. Nobody else reached that day Rocky Summit, all descended because of deteriorating weather.

If you could, please add the fact of our two members reaching Rocky (False) Summit to the information page of Broad Peak 2001 on EverestNews.com

Thank you and best regards, Tarmo Riga from behalf of Estonian team

11.) [#64] British Broad Peak Expedition led by Tom Richardson is here in Pindi to departure for Skardu to attempt Gasherbrum II. Tom is a very experience  mountaineer. This is Tom's six visit to Pakistan. He has a experience team with him which includes Henry Todd (UK), David Mezlor (UK), Robert Harper, John Lawlor (Ireland), Andrew Wannerton (UK), Luis Strik (Netherlands).

K2 20001 Expeditions and News; Broad Peak 2001 Expedition List; Nanga Parbat 2001 Expeditions; Gasherbrum I and GII Expeditions and News; General Pakistan News Page; The Master list of Expeditions in Pakistan in 2001. 

Pakistan 2000 News !

Broad Peak 2000

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