PEAK EXPEDITION (8047 m)
the approach through the Indus Valley, we first
travel along the Karakorum Highway and then turn
towards Skardu. We then hike across the Baltoro
glacier, passing by the famous Trango Towers, to
reach the Concordia place; on the next day, we
will reach the base camp of Broad Peak. In close
proximity, the towers of the giant K2 loom around
us, as do Gasherbrum I and II; these mountains are
all over 8,000 meters.
Peak is undoubtedly one of the technically more
challenging 8,000ers of the middle group which
includes: Dhaulagiri I, Manaslu, Gasherbrum I and
Broad Peak. Still, it is a serious 8,000er with
all that goes along with it, such as: intense
cold, a logistically complicated chain of camps,
and a very high altitude base camp from which the
summit will be attempted.
comparatively safe route was climbed in first
ascent in the year 1957. Already at that early
time period, the small expedition, including Kurt
Diemberger and Hermann Buhl, was able to reach the
summit of an 8,000er without the help of oxygen.
Twenty-eight days are available for the
actual climbing of Broad Peak. First and foremost,
during the first couple of days, the route to Camp
one (6,000 m) must be fixed, which, at the end,
goes up a 200 meter couloir which sometimes as
steep as 50 degrees. Camp two (7,000 m) will be
reached by climbing over ice terraces and short
rocky out-cropings. Here, as well, all exposed
passages will be secured using fixed ropes.
Finally, Camp three (7,400 m) will be reached by
climbing much less exposed glacier slopes with a
few rocky sections; the length of this section is
approximately 400 altitude meters. The summit is
now in front of us; first through a stepening
couloir in the wind-gap between the main and
central summit, then across a ridge which is
partially exposed at the end; there is very little
altitude gain at the end.