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 2001 Alaska USA Broad Peak Expedition

Update 6/16/2001: Alaskan Broad Peak Expedition 2001 is ready to depart for Skardu. They are waiting for one member to arrive from USA Mr. Jay Foutch. For most of the members this is there first time in Pakistan. They are have good experience from climbing in Alaska and the Rocky's in America. Paul Barry the leader and David Hart climbed together 15 of the 20 highest peaks in Alaska. David Melick who was on K2 west ridge in 1993 managed 8000 meters but abandoned as one member was swept away in an avalanche. The members are Paul Barry, David Hart, Dahr Jamail, Jay Foutch, Higinio Gonzalez from Chile, David Melick, Wytze Rijke from Netherlands.

"A quick bio of our group. Seven climbers, core group of three from Alaska. Two friends Dave Melick and Jay Foutch joined us last fall, then we put out the word to our Pakistani Agent Ashgar Ali Porik of Jasmine Tours to help find 2 additional members. Wytze and HiIginio signed on over the winter to round out our seven. We're low key, self financed, no sponsor, do everything ourselves. No mountain porters, no oxygen, no satellite communication. We are paying for everything ourselves. Basically a group of friends who wants to go out and enjoy a good climb in a beautiful setting! We've got experience all over the globe. The Himalaya, South America, Alps, Alaska and Canada. Only 1 of us has been to 8000 meters before, but we have lots of high Alaskan/Canadian experience under our belt. We plan to spend a lot of time acclimatizing to the altitude to prevent illness, and have allotted 6 weeks in BC and on the mountain to wait out weather, etc. 

Alaska USA 2001 Broad Peak Expedition
Standard Route - West Ridge
June 15 - August 17, 2001
Pakistani Agent: Jasmine Tours - Ashgar Ali Porik

David Hart - coordinator, Anchorage Alaska USA Age 33; Paul Barry - official leader on the permit Wasilla Alaska USA Age 33; Dahr Jamail, Anchorage Alaska USA Age 32; Jay Foutch, Houston Texas USA Age 32; Dave Melick, Australia Age 38; Wytze Rijke, Netherlands Age 36; Higinio Gonzalez, Resident: Virginia USA Citizen: Chile

Update 7/5/2001: Alaskan Broad Peak expedition are close to made the summit bid. The expedition is led by Paul Barry. See below for more on them. 

Fourteen member Pakistan China joint expedition recorded the first ascent of the season on Broad Peak on June 30 and July 1 from the normal route. Ten climber made the summit including two Pakistani. 

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333


Update 7/31/2001: Alaskan Broad Beak Expedition led Paul Barry and David Hart team made the summit on the Broad Peak. News came from base camp that four of their members reach the summit and other are making the final attempt.. Names are not yet know.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333


Update 8/1/2001: Four members of Alaskan Broad Peak Expedition led by Paul Barry reached the top. The members who reach the top on July 22 are David Hart, Paul Barry, Higinio Gonzalez from Chile and Wytze Rijke from Netherlands.

Asghar Ali Porik JASMINE TOURS
Department of Tourist Services License #333


Update 8/10/2001: The American Expedition is back.

Update 8/15/2001: Note the links to the pictures follow at the end....

For the record, I'd like to describe our July 22 summit day for the 2001 Alaska USA Broad Peak Expedition.

Four members from our team left Base Camp July 20 and reached Camp 2 early that afternoon. We were: David Hart and Paul Barry from Alaska, USA; Higinio Gonzalez from Chile; and Wytze Rijke from The Netherlands. 

The next day, July 21, found us moving up to our Camp 3. Our original intentions had been to place a higher Camp 4 at 7,500m the next day, but the weather forecast predicted a storm in two days - our intended summit day. Instead, we packed up our camp and carried 200m higher to the empty Argentinian campsite at 7,000m/23,000'. We should note that two Bulgarian climbers (Gospodin Dinev and his partner) were camped 100m below us, and they, too, intended to attempt the summit the following day. 

At 12:45 AM July 22 our four Alaskan members left Camp 3, with the two Bulgarians following in our trail. It was a nice day, though we could see thunderstorms on the horizon, with the constant flash of lightning. Though the wind had filled in most of the Argentinian trail from two days prior, we could still follow their route, which made route-finding very easy. We climbed for almost 4 hours by headlamp until daylight at 4:30 AM. We passed the old Chinese high camp at about 7,300m/23,900'. Not much snow had fallen since they left the site three weeks prior. By 8:00 AM we were at 7,700m/25,300' at the base of the steep 50 degree snow face below the col. At this point, Gospodin's partner turned back due to cold toes, as he did not have overboots or even supergaiters. By 9:00 AM our four members along with Gospodin were all at the col and could finally see both the Rocky Summit 8,030m and the distant True Summit 8,047m. The entire remaining rocky ridge is fixed all the way to the Rocky Summit. Paul, myself and Gospodin reached the summit at 10:45 AM July 22. Higinio and Wytze followed 5-10 minutes later. It was a beautiful day, though windy. We rested on the Rocky Summit for 15 minutes, taking photos. Paul and I set off for the True Summit at 11:00 AM. Higinio, Wytze and Gospodin elected to start their descent immediately without attempting the traverse to the True Summit. They went down without reaching the True Summit. The only technical terrain on the traverse is a 10-meter rock step as soon as we left the Rocky Summit. An hour later, at 11:55 AM Paul and I stood on the True Summit 8.047m.

I'm not drawing any conclusions or making any accusations, but we saw NO evidence of any prior ascents. I realize footprints could have easily disappeared in 3 weeks since the Chinese claimed to have summitted, but the ridge is VERY long, and I would be surprised if ALL footprints would have disappeared in that time. There was NO indication of anyone being on the ridge. Also, we saw NO wands, flags or markers on the True Summit. Of course, we didn't leave anything there, either, so that does not prove anything. However, the Chinese DID leave a wad of Bhuddist prayer flags on the lower Rocky Summit. I have photos of Paul and I on the True Summit, but more telling, I have photos taken FROM the True Summit, looking back TO the lower Rocky Summit, with K2 towering behind.

Paul and I spent less than 2 minutes on the summit, as the wind was increasing, lenticular clouds were beginning to form along the ridge and storm clouds were very quickly approaching. We hurried back as fast as we could, reaching the Rocky Summit 35 minutes later at 12:30 PM. Looking to the col, 250 meters below us, we could still see Higinio, Wytze and Gospodin getting ready to descend the snow face. Paul and I met the other three part way down the snow face at 7,750m, just as the snowstorm hit. We reached our camp at 4:15 PM, just over four hours after leaving the True Summit - our climbing day was 15-1/2 hours round trip. The weather improved as we descended, and by the time we reached camp, it was relatively pleasant, though still cloudy up high.

The next day, our four members descended to base camp, removing all our equipment along the way. This same day, July 23, two Bulgarians Petko Totev and Stanimir Zhelyazkov reached the True Summit and several Estonians and a Pakistani reached the Rocky Summit. The next 8 days were very stormy, effectively ending the climbing season on Broad Peak. However, a French Expedition arrived in mid-July and was still working the route when we left base camp July 30.

I hope this helps to eliminate confusion, at least as far as our expedition is concerned. 

David Hart
2001 Alaska USA Broad Peak Expedition
August 15, 2001

Update: Nice day, eh? Amazing that it was a blizzard 1 hour later... I forgot to mention that we were following tracks all the way up the ridge from the col to the rocky summit, then also from the rocky summit for about 200m further. Then the tracks stopped. Maybe they were wiped away by wind, but .... I hope they send you photos... Looking forward to seeing the Chinese photos... Dave Hart 

Note: An Alpine Club of Pakistan official said, "We have the photographs from all the angles and Chinese and Pakistani did a complete job they reached the main summit and there is no question about it." 

They plan on providing pictures. We have asked all expeditions who claim the Main Summit of Broad Peak this summer to provide pictures so everyone is treated the same. Stay tuned. We have learned to go SLOW... EverestNews.com 

The Pictures of the rocky (false) Summit and the Real Summit from the 2001 Alaska USA Broad Peak Expedition. MUST SEE PICTURES

For background on Broad Peak 2001, and many reports see the 2001 Broad Peak page...

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