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Autumn 1998 Cho Oyu
climb
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Check below for EverestNews.com
Interview with Heather
Macdonald:
Special Report on the International Mountain Guides
/ Expedition 8000
Follow Bob Sloezen, who has reached the summit of Everest three
times from the North Ridge, along with two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald, as
they lead the IMG/Expedition 8000 team to attempt the summit of Cho Oyu.
The IMG/Expedition 8000 Autumn Cho Oyu climb has three guides, eight
guided and two non-guided climbers, and six Sherpas. They arrive Kathmandu the 22nd, leave
for Lhasa on the 25th, arrive BC about the end of Aug/beginning of September. They
hope to summit around the end of September, and return to Kathmandu by October 6.
Dispatch 8: 9/30/98
Bob Sloezen reports from ABC that the summit was reached by Jethro
Robinson, Borge Ousland, Heather Macdonald, and Alan Arnette on the 29th in
very difficult conditions which included thigh deep snow. Alan and Heather did not
actually cross the summit plateau, due to the conditions. Jethro and Borge plowed across
the plateau and stood on the true summit.
On the 30th, the second summit team of Bob Sloezen , Jason Dittmer,
Bob LaRoche, and Tony Smucler, Ang Passang, and Lakpa Rita turned back below Camp 3 due to
deep snow and avalanche conditions.
The other two team members, Mike Demartino and Henry Hamlin, had
turned back from below Camp 2 due to fatigue (Mike) and dizziness, nausea, and blurry
vision (Henry).
Bob reports that on the 27th he and Heather buried Alex
Jaggi in a crevasse near Camp 2, an experience he describes as devastating.
The team is now back at ABC, and is working on recovering loads form
Camp 1 and 2 over the next couple days. The schedule is to return to BC by the 4th,
and arrive Kathmandu by the 6th.
I want to say that I am proud of Everyone on this team for hanging
in there and giving the mountain a good shot in difficult conditions and with significant
adversity. Congratulations and have a safe trip home!
Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition
8000
Dispatch 7: 9/28/98
Bob Sloezen reports from ABC good and bad news.
The good news is that the IMG team is doing fine, with summit bids
planned over the next several days. All the climbers, with the exception of Mark
Smith who is still sick, are now moving up to Camp One, after several days of rest
at ABC.
The bad news is that the two non-guided climbers who were on the IMG
permit, but climbing separately, had a serious problem. On September 25, Alex Jaggi
(42, Swiss) , Keitaro Mooroka (28, Japanese) summitted Cho Oyu along with their
Sherpa Norbu (5x Everest). They used oxygen above Camp 3, and were able to return to
Camp 2 before dark, which suggests that they were moving strongly and doing fine.
Apparently everything was OK when they went to bed, in separate tents. Jaggi was by
himself in a tent, but when Mooroka tried to wake him in the morning, he was dead.
It is unclear what happened. Speculation includes that he fell asleep while cooking
in the tent and died of CO poisoning or perhaps had some acute medical problem during the
night. Bob Sloezen is now going up to Camp 2 ahead of the IMG team to bury Jaggi on
the mountain, in accordance with Jaggi's Body Disposal Form (filled out by him before the
climb). Our sincere condolences to Jaggi's family, which lives in Switzerland.
Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition
8000
Dispatch 6: 9/22/98
The IMG Cho Oyu team reports good progress this past week, despite a
turn in the weather. Leader Bob Sloezen tells us by satellite e mail from the 18,500
foot Advanced Base Camp (ABC) that it has been snowing heavily every
afternoon.
The team has been busy stocking the higher camps, and also working
in the area of ABC to clean up trash. The CTMA (China Tibet Mountaineering
Association) has hired Tibetan yak herders to go to ABC to help carry trash down from this
area. Team members bagged up bottles and cans for transport by yak back down to Base
Camp. From here the CTMA trucks the garbage out to Tingri.
ABC shows signs of being cleaner, as the expeditions conducted by
IGO 8000 members (including IMG) are now using shit barrels for toilets. This
has been required of expedition teams for several years at Everest Base Camp (Nepal side),
but is still voluntary at Cho Oyu. Hopefully other teams will follow the example of
the IGO 8000 teams to use shit barrels. The trouble remains that unscrupulous
operators charging rock bottom prices don't have the money budgeted to haul out their
garbage, let along shit barrels.
The IMG guides and Sherpas worked with members of several other IGO
8000 expeditions to put in fixed rope between Camp 1 and Camp 2. This part of the
climb is quite steep in places, requiring fixing.
Mark Smith is back at ABC, after having to go down to BC for a few
days to recover from illness. Most team members have now slept at Camp 1.
Henry Hamlin (68 years old!) and Ang Nima made it up the ice cliff, and returned to Camp
1. Heather Macdonald, Alan Arnette, and Borge Ousland went to Camp 2 to sleep.
Most of the other team members went to Camp 2 for a carry and have now descended to rest
at ABC, in preparation for going back to Camp 2 with the goal being to sleep at Camp 2 for
acclimatization. After that, members will descend to ABC for several rest days
before heading up on the summit bids.
Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition
8000
Dispatch 5: 9/14/98
The IMG Cho Oyu team has now established Camp 1 at about 20,600
feet. The route to Camp 1 is several hours of very rugged hiking up the moraine and
glacier, then several more hours climbing up a steep and rocky spur to the Camp.
Members are now moving up to sleep at Camp 1. The Sherpas have moved higher, and
have put in Camp 2 at 23,300'. Some fixed rope has also been installed on steep
sections of the route in between, including the ice cliff.
The Route between Camp 1 and Camp 2 is the most technical part of
the route, with several sections of cramponing. The ice cliff is about 200 feet
high, and is in the 70-80 degree range. Once the fixed ropes are installed and steps
chopped, it is reasonable. To get down, it is necessary to rappel with a pack.
Over the next few days members will sleep at Camp 1 and start
carrying some loads to Camp 2. The weather has stabilized and the conditions are
good.
Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition
8000
Dispatch 4: 9/12/98
The IMG team has now established Advanced Base Camp. The yak
team dumped the loads on a rocky site at approximately 18,500 feet. This site is
located about two miles northeast of Nangpa La, the pass over the Himalaya (to
Khumbu). Below ABC, climbers turn east from the trade route, and head up a side
glacier to the ABC which is located on a rugged moraine. Because it is uphill and
out of the way, traders and refugees do not come up to the ABC area, though it is not
uncommon to see them further down the valley. From the site of ABC, it is possible
to watch the yak caravans of traders going over the pass.
At the ABC the team has erected a large kitchen tent, a very large
Mountain Hardware Satellite Dome for a mess tent, and many smaller storage and sleeping
tents. In addition, the team has established their solar power system (five 20 watt
panels going to a voltage regulator, then to a large deep cycle 12volt battery).
This system powers the Inmarsat C satellite system, as well as the VHF radios which link
the ABC to BC, as well as make it possible to communicate with the climbers on the
mountain.
The team completed their puja ceremony at ABC. This Buddhist
ritual is important for the Sherpas and a lot of fun for the team. After a series of
chants and prayers, prayer flags are set out, juniper burned, rice and tsampa thrown
into the air, and many toasts made and consumed by the team!
Now the work begins. Many loads need to be carried to Camp 1,
and everyone will work at doing this. These carries are difficult, especially before
everyone is fully acclimatized. Nonetheless, this is the best way to get
acclimatized...carrying loads!
Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition
8000
Dispatch 3: 9/5/98
The Cho Oyu team reports by satellite e mail that all is well at
Base Camp. They have spent the last several days acclimatizing with day hikes, and
re-packing food and equipment into yak loads. The yaks (20 of them) have arrived at
Base Camp, and they will be starting up tomorrow with some of the team, and Sherpas, to
establish ABC at !8,500'. The total distance from BC to ABC is nearly 15
miles, much of it rugged hiking on rocks and boulders adjacent to lateral moraines of the
Gyabrag Glacier. This is the same route for much of the way as the Nangpa La trade
route to Khumbu. On the first trip up the team will stay at an intermediate camp at
about 17,000 feet. Later, if people go back and forth between BC and ABC, they
can do it in one day. They first time up however, when everyone is not fully
acclimatized, they will take two days.
The yaks are strong this time of year, since they have been grazing
on fresh grass all summer, so they can carry about 60 pounds on each side without too much
problem. The plan is for the yaks to return to BC in a few days and bring up some
additional supplies. Several members who wanted to stay down a few extra days for
additional acclimatization, will go up on the second yak wave.
The heavy rains from the past season have left the mountain covered
in a lot of snow, reports expedition leader Bob Sloezen. Also, Bob
reports that co-leader Heather Macdonald and team member Jason Dittmer saved the life of a
Spanish climber yesterday. Apparently this man had come quickly to Base Camp with
improper acclimatization. He became deathly sick with cerebral edema. Heather
administered injections of dexamethasome, put him on oxygen, and the American team pumped
him in their Gamow (hyperbaric) bag. Then they assisted him in transportation to
Tingri. It sounds like the Spanish team had neither their own jeep, oxygen, or Gamow
bag available to them, and that this man would have died otherwise.
This points out one of the big problems with climbing in Tibet...it
is so high, there is no where to go to get down lower. Once you get sick, you WILL
die if you can't get a jeep ride to lower altitude. The oxygen, Gamow, drugs, etc
are great, but they won't stop the edema once it really kicks in...they just buy you
time. Descent or death are the only options.
Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition
8000
Dispatch 2: 8/31/98
The IMG / Expedition 8000 team reached Cho Oyu Base Camp (15,500
feet) on the 30th of August. The team got their satellite e mail system set up and reports
that everyone is doing well.
Jethro Robinson and the six climbers (Demartino, Dittmer, Hamlin,
LaRoche, Smith, Smucler) flew to Lhasa (about 11,500') from Kathmandu and spent several
days exploring and acclimatizing in this famous city. Sites visited included the
Potola (previously home of the Dali Lama), Johkang Temple (most famous monastery in
Lhasa), and the Barkor (the bazaar). They said they had a great time. From
Lhasa, they drove by jeep to Shigatse (second largest city in Tibet, and home of the
Panchen Lama and Tashilumpo monastery--about 12,500'). Then they continued the next
day to Tingri (about 14,500').
The Zhangmu team had a bit rougher trip. Bob Sloezen and
Heather Macdonald and the Sherpa team spent four fun days loading and unloading trucks and
struggling across landslides with several thousand pounds of food, fuel, gear, personal
duffels, and equipment.
Heavy rains in Nepal and China this past monsoon season left the
road in bad shape. Just getting from Kathmandu to Kodari (the Nepal border town)
required hiring porters to carry gear past landslides, then hiring a new truck on the
other side, on four different occasions. This cost an extra $1000 in porters and
trucks...just one of the little unexpected surprises that come with these kind of
trips. From Kodari (6,500'), the road crosses the Friendship Bridge, then climbs
steeply to the Chinese border town of Zhangmu (8,500'), where Chinese customs is
located. Between Zhangmu and Nyalam (12,500'), the road ascends along the wall of
one of the worlds great gorges, this one carved by the Bhote Kosi River that crosses the
Himalaya. This road is incredible, cut into the rock walls of the gorge in many
places, with huge drop offs, and very few guard rails!! There was another landslide
on the way to Nyalam (in the spring season this part of the road is often blocked by huge
snow avalanches), then OK beyond. After two nights in Nyalam, the team continued to
Tingri to meet the rest of the group.
From Tingri the route climbs gradually across the Broad "Plains
of Tingri" a vital grazing area for the many small Tibetan village that dot the
plain. Eventually the rough dirt road reaches the moraine of the Gyabrag
Glacier. Crossing the moraine, the road climbs through outwash plains and crosses
several streams (these are frozen in the spring--often blocking the road in early
season). This is the ancient trade route to the Nangpa La--the route to Namche
Bazaar and Khumbu (in Nepal). Base Camp is located on a grassy field at about 15,500
feet. The various expeditions set up camps around the field, yaks and yak drivers
wander around, Chinese and Tibetans hang out in their tents and play cards, and climbers
from all over the world meet and talk. It is quite the scene!
The current plan is to take four days (re-pack loads for yaks, take
day hikes, acclimatize), then start moving up to ABC (18,500' )on about September 4th
using yaks to move the gear.
Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition
8000
Dispatch 1: 8/25/98
Eric Simonson's 1998 IMG/Expedition 8000 Cho Oyu team is now in
Kathmandu, making final preparations for the climb. Simonson reports that this season's
team is led by two time Cho Oyu summitter Heather MacDonald and one time Cho Oyu and three
time Everest North Ridge summitter Bob Sloezen. They are scheduled to depart Kathmandu for
Tibet on August 25. This will be IMG/Expedition 8000's fifth climb to Cho Oyu, the
world’s sixth highest peak (8201M). The previous four trips have all been successful
(Spring 95, 96, 97 and Autumn 97), with a total of 38 summiters.
Joining Heather and Bob is Assistant Guide Jethro Robinson (USA) and
climbers Alan Arnette (USA), Michael Demartino (USA), Jason Dittmer (USA), Henry Hamlin
(USA), Borge Ousland (Norway), Robert LaRoche (USA), Mark Smith (USA), Tony Smucler
(Canada), and non-guided climbers Alex Jaggi (Switzerland) and Keitaro Morooka (Japan).
Assisting the team are Sherpas Ang Passang (Sirdar), Lakpa Rita, Ang
Nima, Norbu, and cooks Passang Nuru and Pemba Tshering.
Most of the climbers and several of the guides will travel to Lhasa,
Tibet by Chinese airplane, where they will take several days to acclimatize. Most of the
expedition equipment and Sherpas will go overland via Zhangmu. The team will re-assemble
in Tingri, for the last part of the journey to Base Camp. Heavy rains this year in China
and Tibet have apparently caused some problems with the roads, so there is some concern
that getting to Base Camp is going to be more difficult than usual.
Source : Eric Simonson, International Mountain Guides / Expedition
8000
EverestNews.com Interview with Heather Macdonald:
Heather, Great talking to You !
Q.) [EverestNews.com.com] First tell us about Heather Macdonald: What do you do for a
"living", and who you are. We think most of the readers of EverestNews.com
would
know you are a IMG guide and a climber, but tell us more !
A.) [Heather Macdonald] When I was little, maybe 5 or 6 years old my father began to
take me hiking all over the US. I loved our adventures in the wilderness together. At the
age of 15 I went to France for the summer through a student program that my high school
offered. It was there that I realized I wanted to be a mountain guide and lead people to
the tops of mountains. Climbing and guiding to the Europeans is like Baseball is to
Americans. I watched the professional guides there and I knew that was it ! I had found my
passion. I climbed Mt. Rainier for the first time when I was 17 and by the age of 20 I
became a full time guide working for Rainier Mountaineering Inc. in the summers.
The summer job guiding was great but I wanted more. I wanted to
climb and guide internationally and work year round. Eric Simonson, Phil Ershler, and
George Dunn took me under their wings and in 1993 I began working for International
Mountain Guides. This was three years after I began working for International Mountain
Guides. This was three years after I began working on Mt. Rainier. Since that time I have
been on 7 Himalayan expeditions, 5 to McKinley, 5 to Aconcagua and have summited Rainier
110 times. I have not regretted one day in the climbing boots. If you wake up in the
morning and hate what you do for a living, you have lost the game. You must do what makes
you feel most alive !
When I do have time off, I spend most of it studying a dance called
Flamenco. Its an old gypsy dance from Southern Spain with bid skirts and castenets.
Dancing keeps me in great shape.
This is a very short version of my story. I have left out the years
I have spent trying to finish college, my incredible love affairs and the many other parts
of the world that I have lived in or visited. But I move on to your more specific
questions.
Questions:
Q.) [EverestNews.com] How does Cho Oyo compare with the 8,000 meter peaks you've
climbed? Some say it is the "easiest" of the 8,000 meter peaks.
Understanding that the statement is relative, what are your thoughts?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Cho Oyu, G2, and Shishapangma are the easiest 8000 meter peaks
to climb. Everest. K2, Kanchenchunga are in a league completely on their own. They are
really major league ball. Not only are they the highest, they are HUGE. The distance
between camps is always longer than on a peak like Cho Oyo. For example, the high camp on
the North Side of Everest is higher than the summit of Cho Oyu !
Q.) [EverestNews.com] There really is not much published about Cho Oyo. What is
the typical route up Cho Oyo?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] The typical route up Cho Oyu is the North West
"corner", first climbed by Tichy in 1954.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] How many other routes are there? What's the most difficult
routes?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] The most difficult route on Cho Oyu exist on the Nepali side,
the South face route for example.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] What's the vertical rise of the route most recently taken
on Cho Oyu?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] I think the vertical rise is about 9,000 ft. , probably about as
much as Everest. McKinley has a rise of 17,000 ft. which I believe is a world record.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] There aren't many other 8,000 meter peaks with such a large
summit plateau. What is Cho Oyo's like? Are the winds unbearable?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Cho Oyu is the only 8000 meter peak with a summit plateau that
large ! The wind on this mountain are very tame, unlike the North Col. Route on
Everest where often times it sounds like a 747 jet flying right above your head !
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Talk about the views from Cho Oyo. It is understood that
they are fantastic, with Everest and Makalu in the distance. You've seen the view
first-hand ... what do you think?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] The view from the summit is like looking into the face of God.
There is a true sense of the infinite....of the vaster universe. Everest is just beautiful
in all her glory.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] What do you think about alpine versus big expedition
climbing? Have you ever climbed large peaks without a large expedition and fixed
lines? What, personally, are your likes and dislikes with each style?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] I personally have never climber a bid peak alpine style and its
probably time I do. If you are going alpine style you better have a lot of experience and
know what the heck you are doing. I've watched come incredible alpinist climb at altitude
and it poetry in motion but I have also seen a lot of idiots die.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] What are the primary differences between climbing in the
Karakoram and Khumbu areas of the Himalayas? For example, are the rocks better for
placing fixed anchors? Are the views better? Is the snow the same
consistency? Which do you like better and why?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] The Himalayan are high but they are also formed in massifs, so
they are big and bulky. The Karakoram are high with the most incredible relief I have ever
seen. Dead vertical rock walls appear to rise out of nowhere. G4 is the perfect mountain.
All sides of it are steep. like K2. No easy way up the damn thing.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Do you think every expedition should have a satellite
phone? Even though they are expensive, prices have gone down significantly in recent
years.
A.) [Heather Macdonald] If you are a private climbing expedition and you
don't have a sat. phone that's up to you. But I think if you are running a commercial
expedition it's a nice service to offer your clients or at least having e-mail ability.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] How do you finance your climbing career? Other than
guiding, do you have any other forms of income?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Right now I am able to support myself by just guiding. But I
have done construction in the past, dug ditches, worked at an indoor rock gym, taught
gymnastics, groomed race horses....etc....
Q.) [EverestNews.com] How would you recommend aspiring mountaineers get started
climbing?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] There are lots of good entry level climbing courses out there.
(Rainier Mountaineering Exum) Get into one of those and go from there. I choose to go to
Joshua Tree and set up camp in a cave for a few months and climb with as many good
climbers as I could find. Another place to find partners might be your local rock gym.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] What are your future plans? Are any more 8,000 meter peaks
in your future? Do you think you will possibly attempt K2 to be the first American
woman to summit?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] I used to have dreams of being the first woman to summit the
three highest peaks in the world but I do not think that is my calling. I'd like to go
back to Everest ....to finish the job that I have started. This spring I will be leading a
trek to Mt. Kailas, the most sacred mountain in the Himalayas. We will make the tradition
circuit around the Mountain.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] What's the largest and the smallest team that she's been a part
of (rope team included).
A.) [Heather Macdonald] The largest team I have been part of is about 35 people and the
smallest is about 8.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Does she think that an 18 year old can lead a team of three on
Everest.. (given his experience)?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] I Think an 18 year old can certainly climb Everest but leading
or guiding people up there requires a different set of skills. And those leadership skills
generally come through years of experience.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] If a team uses no Sherpas and hauling all of our own gear. Is
this foolish? Considering that two, on the team of three, will not be using Oz.
A.) [Heather Macdonald] This question is difficult to answer because it really depends
on the experience level of this team. If its your first time to an 8000 meter peak I would
recommend Sherpas and oxygen. Maybe 15 people in the world (aside from Sherpas) have
summitted Everest without oxygen and those were people with a gift for high altitude.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] What is her opinion about the role of the guide on 8000 meter
peaks?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Very interesting question ! The role of the guide is to keep
people safe. That means fixing rope, putting in camp, and turning around when the mountain
says to go back. Of course, getting to the top is part of guiding but that takes a back
seat to SAFETY.
Q) [EverestNews.com] When she guides on Everest, how does she deal with her own
ambitions for summiting?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] If I am hired as a guide that will always take priority over my
ambitions for summiting. That's just the way it goes. Guiding is more about PEOPLE than it
is about technical climbing.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Questions relating to the state of the environment on different
peaks. Are there still efforts made to clean up? Are climbers still being
ignorant about the garbage they leave or are they making real efforts?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Many thing are being done to help the environment on Himalayan
peaks. This year our team and a number of others collected our human waste in plastic
barrels, had it carried down the mountain and buried it in the dirt far away from base
camp. The Tibetan Mountaineering Association sent in teams of Tibetans to collect garbage,
that would be burned. Oxygen bottles are being carried down Everest by paid Sherpas. These
bottles will be refilled and used again. Efforts are being made ! Plus we always
make
efforts to clean our fixed rope.
These questions come from a HA climber (woman) friend of ours that
is planning to go to Everest (probably) in 99, or possibly a different 8000 meter peak.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] As I am interested in high altitude physiology, in particular
women's, would like her impressions about acclimatization/performance of women at altitude
particularly vs. acclimatization/performance of man at altitude.
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Women are generally smarter about going to altitude and go
slower so there is less sickness. But to be honest there is little known about altitude
physiology in general and even less known about women. Why do some people get sick at
10,000 ft. and others can go to 28,000 ft. without oxygen ???? What I have seen over the
years is that men and women are about the same up high in terms of acclimatization. I
would say the playing field is pretty level at 25,000ft ! What is really unknown is what
for example does the pill do to the body at altitude? there have been two reported cases
of blood clotting up high with women using the pill.
Q.) [EverestNews.com]
Would like Heather to assess both South Side and North
Side standard routes on Everest: difficulties, dangers, success rates, etc.
A.) [Heather Macdonald] If you want the best shot of summiting Everest go to the South
side. Right now the Khumbu ice fall seems fairly more stable than it has in years past.
The North side does not have any dangers like the Khumbu ice fall but from 28,000 ft. on
up the route has three major rock steps to overcome on an exposed ridge. Keep in mind the
ridge is a mile long ! You're at 28,000 ft for 12 hours negotiating this ridge all the way
up and back. On the South side your not at that altitude for that long. The success rate
is much higher on the south side.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] It would also be interesting, at least for people considering
guided trips, to know which guided groups summited Cho-Oyo this Fall, and how many clients
out of which groups. Also data about safety would be appreciated, if available.
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Russell Brice was here and got one client up. OTT (Jon Tinker)
was there and had maybe six including himself and another guide Henry Todd was there and
got a bunch of people up. We got one customer up. It was a tough year in terms of weather
and route conditions. Lots and lots of SNOW !
Q.) [EverestNews.com] This is a tough one, but can you give "the armchair
climber" an idea how other climbers handle death. From the right and the left !
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Death, I've dealt with it so much and it's never easy. When
someone dies it brings one's mortality right under the nose so you can smell it. Death is
hard on the people left behind but its one of our greatest teachers and gifts. It can be a
gift of such insight and wisdom ! I still climb for a lot of dead climbers, And sometimes
up there in the stillness, in-between my breaths I can fell them around me.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] What do you think about companies short roping climbers on
mountains to obtain a Summit?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Short roping is a great technique if it's used correctly !
EverestNews.com
Interview with Heather Macdonald
Continues !
First we would like to thank Heather for taking time to be a part of
EverestNews.com and for being so nice and kind. Someone we would love to climb with !
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Tell us, how hard is it to climb the North Side of Everest ? You
have been on many Rainier Summits and Cho Oyu, but you are 0 for 2 on Everest North Side,
compare them for us. For those of us that have only been on "hikes" compared to
you.
A.) [Heather Macdonald] People will often ask me: "How do you train to go to Mt.
Everest?", which is like asking how one might train to play in the NFL or major
league ball. In theory, it takes years of training to get there. Generally I will judge
climbs or routes by the level of commitment they require. And by commitment I mean
physical, spiritual and mental. Well the North side of Mt. Everest is one of the most
committing routes in the world. Beyond 28,000ft you are dangling on vertical ropes, walking
on down sloping layered rock, and dancing around some crazy cornices. Even though Cho Oyu
is high, the route is not as technical nor is it as exposed . The standard route on
Rainier is not that technical or exposed but it does have objective dangers like rock fall
and ice fall. The objective dangers on Cho Oyu and N. side Everest are minimal.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Can you describe the Hillary Step and what exactly is involved
in overcoming this outcropping? if not for the fixed ropes, would most climbers be able to
get over it? I read a book that described how Hillary and Norgay had to wedge themselves
between rock and snow and inch their way up. also, does it look different every year as
more or less snow might amass?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] No I cannot describe the Hillary Step because that is on the
south side of the big E and I have never been there. Yes it can be done without fixed
rope.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] How dangerous is a mountain like Cho Oyu for an intermediate
climber? Is it a realistic goal for a climber of modest ability?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Cho Oyu is a realistic goal for people who have proved
themselves at altitude elsewhere. People who have climbed McKinley or Aconcagua, or
perhaps have climbed in Nepal. There are only two steep sections on the route and those
sections are fixed with rope. This mountain is mainly about dealing with the extreme
altitude.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Specifically, how many deaths have occurred on Cho Oyu in recent
memory? I am a climber of modest ability who would love to climb an 8,000 meter
peak. Yet I'm not sure how objectively dangerous a normal route climb on Cho Oyu would be.
I'm sure you would have some insight.
A.) [Heather Macdonald] I think about 3 people have died on Cho Oyu in the last three
seasons. There are no major objective hazards on this route and the exposure is not too
scary. Get as much experience as you can before going to an 8000 meter peak and always
climb with people you trust. Give yourself turn around times and if the weather is bad..
go down. Always remember that 8000 meter peaks are the big leagues. When your above
25,000ft your margins of safety are greatly diminished.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] You learn you are guiding climbers up McKinley in 6 months and
that one of the climbers is 53 with no climbing experience. Has not been in shape in
25 years but he has been working out for 3 months since signing up for the McKinley climb.
In addition you learn he is doing a 4 day Mt Washington winter climb/hike with a
guide plus taking the 8 day Denali training course. Also there are no hills or mountains
near where he lives. What would want him to do in the remaining 6 months to increase
the probability of a successful expedition?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] I would recommend a Mt. Rainier winter seminar or a Mt.Whitney
climb with George Dunn in the spring. I would also walk up and down stairs with a heavy
pack. Stadium stairs are great. Dealing with a heavy pack is the hardest part of climbing
Denali.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Could you please give your opinion on the use of canned/bottled
oxygen in high altitude climbing, specifically what environmental effect it has had, and
the subsequent rules from international climbing community, as well as your opinion as an
expert climber, on the use of oxygen from a purist standpoint.
A.) [Heather Macdonald] There are very few people in the world that have the genetic
gift of being able to climb high without oxygen. Using O2 is a personal choice but the
fact of the matter is , using oxygen is much safer. Do you want to see all the oxygen
bottles at the South col replaced with dead bodies? People are aware of how bad all the
garbage looks on the mountain and yes bottles are being brought down by paid Sherpas
to be
refilled. On our expeditions we try to bring every single bottle back down or make
arrangements with other teams to use our full bottles that might be left up high.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] What is it like to climb with oxygen ? This would seem to me to
be a major difference (beside the size) on these 8000 meter peaks.
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Climbing with oxygen does not make you feel like you are at a
lower altitude. Remember its not just a lack of oxygen you are dealing with up there but a
lack of atmospheric pressure also. We need a certain amount of pressure to make our lungs
work. Oxygen does keep you warm and helps muscles recover from exertion. (i.e. not
producing as much lactic acid). It also helps you think more clearly.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] As a follow up, have you ever ran out of oxygen, and had to go
without when you were using it? The Ron Hall example on K2. I have always looked as an
example on why not to use oxygen.
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Actually this year on Cho Oyu I discovered part way to the
summit that my mask was broken so I went without O2. I felt good that day so I was alright
but yes that could be a serious problem.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Can you tell us about these Czech climbers who were on Everest
in 98? We understand TWO members reached the Summit without oxygen and they have little
funds. How strong were these guys? Would you climb with them?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Eastern block climbers are usually really tough people. No I
never met the Czech climbers. Russian climbers always say that there is no bad weather
only bad gear.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Do these HA climbers really know how likely it is they
will die, if they keep on climbing these 8000 meter peaks? Or do they think, "It
can't happen to me"? We have seen many experienced climbers, strong climbers like
Eric Escoffier die.
A.) [Heather Macdonald] I most HA climbers are very aware of the odds they are playing.
But you have to do what makes you feel most alive in life, even if that means confronting
death head on. Most ignore their hearts and don’t follow a passionate path. I think
that is a mistake.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] What is your thoughts on what Into Thin Air has done to Climbing
? Eric Simonson, made some comments that seems to make us believe he did not like the
book. Do you share his thoughts?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] I don’t think Thin Air should have ever been written. Jon
is making money hand over fist for exploiting a beautiful mountain and the human thirst
for tragedy. I feel awful for the families of the people who died. Now people think they
are experts because they have read the books. I’ve argued with people about this book
and realized: "Why am I wasting my breath, I’ve been there and they have
not." One man said to me that he was actually inspired by the book. That’s great
inspired by climbers making mistakes and screwing up. Everest is in the lap of the general
public. Is that where it should be?
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Explain a "typical" client on an 8,000 meter
expedition. What is his/her experience level? What size mountains has he/she
climbed. What experience did the most experienced person have, what experience did the
least experienced person have?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Most clients going to an 8000 meter peak have climbed McKinley,
Aconcagua, peaks in Bolivia or in Nepal and have done climbs like Rainier.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Which 8,000 meter peak requires the most rock climbing
experience? Do any of them compare to Ama Dablam?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] The amount of rock on a peak will vary depending on the route.
Annapurna, and Makalu have long sections of rock.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] To climb Cho Oyo, does one need any rock climbing experience?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] No, you do not need much rock climbing experience to climb Cho
Oyu but if you are a Himalayan climber you should have experience in many disciplines of
the alpine environment.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] What season do you like best in the Himalaya?
Spring, Summer, Fall, or Winter? Why?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] I like spring season the best. More wind but less snow and trail
breaking! Also less avalanche hazard in the spring.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Everyone hears about the Sherpa. What has been your best
experience with them? What has been your worst experience with them?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] I love the Sherpas!! And they never get enough credit. They have
taught me so much. They have taught me how to listen to the mountains. One time I was
walking down to B.C. on Everest and I was sick . I met Pemba along the way and explained
to him how bad I was feeling with the flu or something. He told me not to worry because
being sick changes the direction of the wind! (Hopefully for the better) My worst
experience was when I was climbing up to Camp 5 on Everest and a Sherpa coming down the
slope fell past me because he did not clip into the rope. He stopped just on the edge of
the North Face!
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Could she compare your experience with Sherpas, Baltis and
Hunzas?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] The Sherpas are a much warmer people than the balti but they are
both super strong and tough
Q.) [EverestNews.com] What mountaineer do you most admire? Why?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] There are many of them but I adore Wanda Rutkiewicz. She died on
Kangchenjunga but before that climbed 8 8000 meter peaks. She was a wonderful person.
Q.) [Everest News.com] What do you think of the issues raised in Greg Child's new book
"Postcard From the Edge" especially about Cesen and Lydia Bradley and their
claims and behavior?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] I am sorry I have not read Greg’s book
Q.) [EverestNews.com] How much does your rock climbing experience help in your
mountaineering?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] When I began climbing I lived in a cave at Joshua Tree at the
end of Hidden Valley loop. I spent a couple of months there rock climbing every day. I
lived on coffee and pasta. I would not have felt comfortable mountaineering without a
technical background.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Do you find that guided clients cling too strongly to their
guides and is this a major cause of mountaineering disasters?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Mountaineering disasters are caused by guides and clients not
listening to the mountain.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] Can you recommend any books that truly capture the experience of
climbing a high mountain?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Read Annapurna South Face by Chris Bonington. This is the REAL
STUFF!!!!!!!!!!!
Q.) [EverestNews.com] All five of the women who have reached the summit of K2 have
died in the mountains. This to me is eerie. All five were very experienced
professionals. Could some experience be bad as it can lead people to think that they
are invulnerable?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Its not that people think they are invulnerable but it comes
down to wanting to climb something so badly, its worth more to them than life is. I wonder
who will be the first woman to climb all 14 8000 meter peaks??? Women have not even begun
to climb in the Himalaya.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] What was the most dangerous moment of her climbing career?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] The most dangerous moment in my climbing career was hanging in a
crevasse on McKinley.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] How does she stay in shape for climbing, what would she
recommend to office-bound people to do to stay in shape for mountaineering?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Climb up and down stairs with a heavy pack on. I Flamenco dance
and guide to stay in shape for climbing. (the dance from southern Spain) Climbing is very
muscle specific. Don’t forget about downhill muscles.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] As a woman, have there been any barriers to her career's
development? For example, has she been banned from countries or areas because she is
a woman? It is thought that mountain guides would no be prejudice but,
has she ever seen it in her workplace?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] Pakistan was a difficult place to travel as a woman. I had to be
completely covered and was ignored. I am the only woman I know of guiding in the Himalayas
and there is a boys club there that I have not been accepted by. But the mountain does not
care what gender you are. I have received a lot of support from Eric Simonson, Phil
Ershler and George Dunn who run IMG. And for the most part the only limitations are the
ones we put on ourselves. If a guy does give me" lip", I just walk faster.
Q.) [EverestNews.com] What country's (besides Americans) climbers does she have the
most respect for?
A.) [Heather Macdonald] I have a lot of respect for individual climbers from many
different nations. Although the Japanese, Korean and Eastern Block climbers seem more
willing to push the edge and die in the mountains. It’s the choice they make to climb
with that kind of philosophy. There is always freedom in the hills…
Heather Macdonald Resume
Mountain Guide, Ashford,
WA
Expeditions and Climbs as a guide for IMG or
RMI
Mt. Rainier Senior
guide since 1990, over 107 ascents of Mt. Rainier, including 4 winter ascents.
Cascades Mt. Adams:
via north and south side routes forbidden peak west and east
ridges.
California: Mt. Whitney: 2 ascents of the Mountaineers route winter attempt of East Face
(reached 14,000 ft.)
Alaska: 5 expeditions to Mt. McKinley (3 Summits)
Argentina: 5 Expeditions to Aconcagua: Polish glacier variation route
Mecedario Expedition (reached 18,500 ft)
Africa: Mt. Kenya via Teleki Valley route.
Mexico: 4 Mexican Volcano expeditions including numerous ascents of Ixta
Orizaba
Popocatereti.
Bolivia: Expedition to Condoriri valley: ascents of Apacheta, Illusion, and El
Diente (17,000 ft)
Pakistan: Expedition to Hushe Valley (reached 19,500 on
unnamed peak)
Nepal: Expedition to Paldor (reached 18,200 ft.)
Tibet:1993
Shishapangma Expedition (reached 25,200 ft.)
1994 Everest North Col (reached 26,000 ft.)
1995 Cho Oyu (Summit 26,900 Ft)
1996 Cho Oyu Summit
1988-1995 Extensive rock climbing throughout the
United States
1.) Joshua Tree, California
2.) Red Rocks, Nevada: Numerous Grade IV and Grade V
routes including Dream of Wild turkeys, Prince of Darkness, Eagle dance, Levitation 29,
and Yellow Brick Road
3.) Smiths Rocks, Oregon: sport Climbs up to 5.11 a/b,
led bolted routes up to 5.10d
4.) Leavenworth, Washington
5.) Indian Creek, Utah including Generic Crack
6.) Rifle Colorado
8.) Hueco Tanks, Texas
9.) Telluride Colorado, Opher wall (hot Wee Wee)
10.) Owens River Gorge, California
11.) Yosemite California
* Can led 5.8/5.9 gear routes
Ice Climbing
1.) Columbia River Gorge
2.) Redstone, Colorado Avodado, Redstone pillar: The
Drool
3.) Aspen Colorado
* Can follow Grade V and lead Grade III routes
Medical Background
October 1995: Wilderness first Responder and CPR
certification Trained to EMTII-D
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