Cho Oyu - the "Turquoise
Goddess" in Tibetan - is located at the frontier of Tibet and Nepal. At
a height of 8201 meters, it belongs to the Himalayan range, about 30 km
west of Everest. It is the sixth highest mountain in the world and was
first climbed on October 19th 1954 by the Austrian Herbert Tichy, with
Sepp Jochler and Pasang Dava Lama.
"Finally, the peak is
reached, the infinite hardships are ended. The last nine hours fighting
with the mountain; the time in the death zone above 24,000 foot, the
weeks of privations and hardships, even the risk of one's life - is this
reward itself really? Yes, certainly! Not because of fame but inner
satisfaction: To have found the mountain as friend and have been so near
to the sky." Sepp Jochler.
reconnaissance of Cho Oyu's Northwest face by Edmund Hillary and party.
1954: A small Austrian
expedition, under the leadership of Herbert Tichy, make a spectacular
first ascent without oxygen on the Northwest face. This new style of
climbing big mountains with alpine techniques rewrote mountaineering
1958: Second ascent by
an Indian expedition. Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama, who was part of the first
ascent, reached the peak for the second time. First death on Cho Oyu.
1959: Four members of
an expedition are killed in an avalanche during a failed international
third ascent by a German expedition. No proof of reaching the summit.
Two mountaineers die in Camp 4 of exhaustion at 7600 m (25,000 foot)
1978: The Austrian
alpinists, Koblmuller and Furtner, succeeds in a spectacular ascent of
the extremely difficult and dangerous southeast face.
1983: Reinhold Messner
succeeds on his fourth attempt.
1985: First winter
ascent of the South buttress by a Polish expedition. The South Buttress
is the most difficult route on Cho Oyu to be completed successfully.