Cho Oyu - the
"Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan - is located at the frontier of Tibet and
Nepal. At a height of 8201 meters, it belongs to the Himalayan range, about 30
km west of Everest. It is the sixth highest mountain in the world and was
first climbed on October 19th 1954 by the Austrian Herbert Tichy, with Sepp
Jochler and Pasang Dava Lama.
"Finally, the peak is
reached, the infinite hardships are ended. The last nine hours fighting with
the mountain; the time in the death zone above 24,000 foot, the weeks of
privations and hardships, even the risk of one's life - is this reward itself
really? Yes, certainly! Not because of fame but inner satisfaction: To have
found the mountain as friend and have been so near to the sky." Sepp Jochler.
The History: a Time Line
1952: First reconnaissance of
Cho Oyu's Northwest face by Edmund Hillary and party.
1954: A small Austrian
expedition, under the leadership of Herbert Tichy, make a spectacular first
ascent without oxygen on the Northwest face. This new style of climbing big
mountains with alpine techniques rewrote mountaineering history.
1958: Second ascent by an
Indian expedition. Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama, who was part of the first ascent,
reached the peak for the second time. First death on Cho Oyu.
1959: Four member of an
expedition are killed in an avalanche during a failed international women's
1964: Controversial third
ascent by a German expedition. No proof of reaching the summit. Two
mountaineers die in Camp 4 of exhaustion at 7600 m (25,000 foot) height.
1978: The Austrian alpinists,
Koblmuller and Furtner, succeeds in a spectacular ascent of the extremely
difficult and dangerous southeast face.
1983: Reinhold Messner
succeeds on his fourth attempt.
1985: First winter ascent by
Maciej Baebeka and Maciei Pawlikowski on 2/12/85. Three days later
Andrezej Heinrich and Jerzy Kukuczka summited by the South buttress that has
not been repeated on Cho Oyu.